Difference between revisions of "Bad Kloof"
(→The Palace) |
(→Waterworld) |
||
| Line 393: | Line 393: | ||
|Monkey See Monkey Do | |Monkey See Monkey Do | ||
|19/6a/6a+ | |19/6a/6a+ | ||
| − | | | + | |8 Bolts |
| | | | ||
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009. | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009. | ||
| Line 417: | Line 417: | ||
|Some Would Say | |Some Would Say | ||
|26/7b | |26/7b | ||
| − | | | + | |7 Bolts |
| | | | ||
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013. | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013. | ||
| Line 441: | Line 441: | ||
|Firestarter! | |Firestarter! | ||
|29/7c+ | |29/7c+ | ||
| − | | | + | |9 Bolts |
| | | | ||
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
| Line 473: | Line 473: | ||
|The Mission | |The Mission | ||
|24/7a | |24/7a | ||
| − | | | + | |5 Bolts |
| | | | ||
|BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996. | |BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996. | ||
| Line 481: | Line 481: | ||
|Sidewinder | |Sidewinder | ||
|24/7a | |24/7a | ||
| − | | | + | |6 Bolts |
| | | | ||
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
| Line 489: | Line 489: | ||
|Creepy Crawly | |Creepy Crawly | ||
|20/6a+ | |20/6a+ | ||
| − | | | + | |6 Bolts |
| | | | ||
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | |BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
Revision as of 23:44, 20 January 2013
>> Back to Montagu main page
How to get there
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office. Walk into Bad Kloof as you would if you were walking towards the Avalon Springs. Follow the path until it crosses the river. The crag is at the river crossing on the south side of the kloof.
Fees, Permits, Etc
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.
Bad Kloof Climbing Map
Crags in Bad Kloof
Berlin Wall
Berlin Wall Routes - This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap.
- Minefield 6b+/22
- Vays und Meenz 7a/24
- Streef Bogananoff 7a/24
- Hot Toddy Bension 7c/28
- Brandenburg Gate 6b/21
- Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
Jurrasic Park
Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade
- Against the Grain 7c/28
- Jabulani 7c/28
- Big Bag Voodoo 5/17
Masawattee 35/8c+ The long line with the slab behind it - [Mazawattee (35/8c+) goes down!] Bolted by Sean Maasch. FA: Adam Ondra 27 July 2009
Laundry
Lion Said
Lion Said Routes - from L to R As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort of crag on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth.
- Hello Aloe 5-/15
- Devil Speak 6b+/21
- Short Cut 6b+/21
- Short, Sharp, Shock!! 6c+/23
- Come Short 7a+/25
Peanut Gallery
Pipeline
Pipeline Routes - There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. Grades all about 32ish. 8a/8a+. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end.
Playground
Playground Routes -
- Jungle Gym Junkie 5c/18
- Jungle Jim 6a/19
- See Saw 4/15
- The Jester 6c+/24
- Party-on Wayne 7a/25
- Jus Klup Ut 7b+/27
- Powerplay 7a+/25
- Fun in the Sun 6b+/22
Rage
Rage Routes -
- Bullet in the Head 8a/30
Sloth
South Park
South Park Routes - On the right hand side between Supertubes and the Palace.
- Cartman gets 7a/25
- Who Killed Kenny 7b+/27
Supertubes
Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.
Supertubes Routes from Left to Right
| ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| Wax my Gun and have some Fun | 21 | 6 Bolts | T Hyde 1999 | route is on the far left of the crag |
| The Dumper | 15 | 7 Bolts | Stuart Brown 2004 | |
| Beach Break | 19 | 7 Bolts | Stuart Brown 2004 | |
| Whoa She Poopie | 29 | 10 Bolts | BB Sean Maasch / OB Justin Hawkins 1998 | Originally graded 30/8a |
| Point Break | 30 | 10 Bolts | Jono Fisher 1991 | Originally graded 29 |
| Rad and Bad | 29 | 10 Bolts | Mike Roberts 1991 | |
| Surf and Turf | 23 | 7 Bolts | <add FA> | |
| Leap Tide | 27 | 9 Bolts | Stuart Brown 2004 | Shares same chains as Thruster |
| Thruster | 26 | 7 Bolts | Sean Maasch 1992 | one of the most climbed routes in Montagu |
| Triple Stinger | 26 | 7 Bolts | Sean Maasch 1991 | |
| J-Bay | 28 | 9 Bolts | D Wiemar 1997 | |
| <unknown> | 31 | 5 Bolts | Clinton Martinengo | |
| Hypoxia | 29 | 7 Bolts | G Hoerhager 1996 | the roof route over the bench |
| First Wave | 24/25 | 5 Bolts | Jeremy Ward 1998 | |
| <unknown> | <add details> |
The Hotel
The Hotel Routes -
- The Key 7b+/27
- The Bell Boys 7b/26
- U Like Jamin 6c/23
- Rim Service 7a/24
The Swamp
Routes -
- Gruff 7b/26
- Route Do Me 7b+/27
- Gluttony 7c+/29
- Where Eagles Dare 5-/16
- There Lurks the 4+/13
The Palace
- The Palace Route List
Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | Bad Cop, No Donut | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | FA. J Samson. 2004. | Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs | |
| 2. | Elegantly Wasted | 26/7b | 10 Bolts | FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999. | ||
| 3. | S102 | 25/7a+ | 10 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 2004. | ||
| 4. | Lexi's Route | 25/7a+ | 7 Bolts | <unknown> | ||
| 5. | Cyberpunk | 25/7a+ | 9 Bolts | ***** | FA. R Nattrass. 1996. | |
| 6. | MoonaBoos | 27/7b+ | 10 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 1999. | ||
| 7. | Shagadelic | 23/6c+ | 8 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 2000 | ||
| 8. | Burning Chrome | 28/7c | 14 Bolts | FA. R Nattrass. 1995. | ||
| 9. | Judge Dredd | 29/7c+ | 13 Bolts | FA. R Nattrass. 1996. | ||
| 10. | Strange Days | 31/8a+ | 5 Bolts | FA. E Wiercx. 1997. | ||
| 11. | About Time | 27/7b+ | 12 Bolts | FA. C Martinengo. 2004. | ||
| 12. | The Activist | 30/8a | 11 Bolts | FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995. | ||
| 13. | The Neuromancer | 23/6c+ | 8 Bolts | FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995. | ||
| 14. | Mad Max | 21/6b+ | 14 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | 13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches. | |
| 15. | Psycho Ranger | 20/6b | 13 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | 15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches. |
Uriah Heep
Uriah Heep Routes -
- Love Machine 6b+/22
- Stealin' 6b+/22
- Digital Bitch 7b/26
- Demons and Wizards 7b+/28
- Easy Living 7b/26
- November Afternoon 6c/23
- July Morning 6b+/22
- Firefly 6a/19
Waterworld
Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk, Morning shade
- Waterworld History
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable. In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)
- WaterworldRoute List
Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | Monkey See Monkey Do | 19/6a/6a+ | 8 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009. | ||
| 2. | Arendsig | 18/6a | 8 Bolts | ***** | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007. | |
| 3. | Walk On By | 23/6c+ | 8 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007. | ||
| 4. | Some Would Say | 26/7b | 7 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013. | ||
| 5. | Simply Irresistable | 27/7b+ | 5 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007. | (Branches left) | |
| 5.b | The Singularity | 29/7c+ | 5 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010 | (veers right) | |
| 6. | Firestarter! | 29/7c+ | 9 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
| 7. | My Route Down By The River | 31/8a+ | 10 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
| 8. | Chongalolo | Project | BB: Matt Bush. | |||
| 9. | Twist And Crawl | 28/7c | 12 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009. | ||
| 10. | The Mission | 24/7a | 5 Bolts | BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996. | This is the original route at Waterworld. | |
| 11. | Sidewinder | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
| 12. | Creepy Crawly | 20/6a+ | 6 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. |
>> Back to Montagu page
