Difference between revisions of "Bad Kloof"

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== Bad Kloof Climbing Map ==
+
>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page
 +
 
 +
=How to get there=
 +
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.
 +
 
 +
=Fees, Permits, Etc=
 +
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof.  A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.
 +
 
 +
= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =
 
<display_points type="satellite" height="500">
 
<display_points type="satellite" height="500">
 
-33.781209,  20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
 
-33.781209,  20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
Line 20: Line 28:
 
</display_points>
 
</display_points>
  
=== Crags in Bad Kloof ===
 
  
== Berlin Wall ==
+
= Crags in Bad Kloof =
Berlin Wall Routes - This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap.
+
  
* Minefield 6b+/22
 
* Vays und Meenz 7a/24
 
* Streef Bogananoff 7a/24
 
* Hot Toddy Bension 7c/28
 
* Brandenburg Gate 6b/21
 
* Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
 
  
== Jurrasic Park ==
+
== The Penthouse ==
Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade
+
*'''The Penthouse Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|<Project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|BB. C Martinengo.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Pet of the Month
 +
|27/7b+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Samson. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Groping in the Dark
 +
|24/7a
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|}
  
* Against the Grain 7c/28
+
== Waterworld ==
* Jabulani 7c/28
+
* Big Bag Voodoo 5/17
+
Masawattee 35/8c+ The long line with the slab behind it - [Mazawattee (35/8c+) goes down!] Bolted by Sean Maasch. FA: Adam Ondra 27 July 2009
+
  
== Laundry ==
+
Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.
  
== Lion Said ==
+
*'''Waterworld History'''
Lion Said Routes - from L to R As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort of crag on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth.
+
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds.  Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. 
 +
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
 +
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base!  In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)
  
* Hello Aloe 5-/15
+
[[Image:waterworld_topo_image.jpg|Waterworld Topo]]
* Devil Speak 6b+/21
+
* Short Cut 6b+/21
+
* Short, Sharp, Shock!! 6c+/23
+
* Come Short 7a+/25
+
  
== Peanut Gallery ==
+
*'''WaterworldRoute List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Monkey See Monkey Do
 +
|19/6a/6a+
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Arendsig
 +
|18/6a
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|*****
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Walk On By
 +
|23/6c+
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Some Would Say
 +
|26/7b
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Simply Irresistable
 +
|27/7b+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007.
 +
|(Branches left)
 +
|-
 +
|5.b
 +
|The Singularity
 +
|29/7c+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010
 +
|(veers right)
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|Firestarter!
 +
|29/7c+
 +
|9 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|7.
 +
|My Route Down By The River
 +
|31/8a+
 +
|10 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|8.
 +
|Chongalolo
 +
|Project
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|BB: Matt Bush.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|9.
 +
|Twist And Crawl
 +
|28/7c
 +
|12 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|10.
 +
|The Mission
 +
|24/7a
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996.
 +
|This is the original route at Waterworld.
 +
|-
 +
|11.
 +
|Sidewinder
 +
|24/7a
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|12.
 +
|Creepy Crawly
 +
|20/6a+
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
 +
|
 +
|}
  
== Pipeline ==
 
Pipeline Routes - There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. Grades all about 32ish. 8a/8a+. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end.
 
  
 +
== Peanut Gallery ==
  
== Playground ==
+
*'''Peanut Gallery Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Good Day for Basketball
 +
|22/6c
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. R Holwill. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Finding Ningo
 +
|27/7b+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
| <unknown>
 +
|31/8a+
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|FA. <unknown>
 +
|
 +
|}
  
Playground Routes -
 
  
* Jungle Gym Junkie 5c/18
+
== Lion Said ==
* Jungle Jim 6a/19
+
* See Saw 4/15
+
* The Jester 6c+/24
+
* Party-on Wayne 7a/25
+
* Jus Klup Ut 7b+/27
+
* Powerplay 7a+/25
+
* Fun in the Sun 6b+/22
+
  
== Rage ==
+
*'''Lion Said Route List'''
Rage Routes -
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' From Left to Right. As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.
  
* Bullet in the Head 8a/31
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Short Cut
 +
|21/6b+
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Short, Sharp, Shock!
 +
|23/6c+
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Come Short
 +
|25/7a+
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Hello Aloe
 +
|15/ 5b
 +
|13 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Devil Speak
 +
|21/6b+
 +
|9 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. K Schumann. 1998.
 +
|
 +
|}
  
  
== Sloth ==
+
== Sloth Crag ==
 
+
*'''Sloth Crag Route List'''
== South Park ==
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
South Park Routes - On the right hand side between Supertubes and the Palace.
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
+
|-
* Cartman gets 7a/25
+
|#
* Who Killed Kenny 7b+/27
+
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Sunshine Reggae
 +
|15/5b
 +
|9 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground.
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|One For The Money
 +
|17/5c
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown 2002.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Rattle and Hum
 +
|24/7a
 +
|5 bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Beautiful Day
 +
|25/7a+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Orton. 2002
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Sloth
 +
|25/7a+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Samson. 1996
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|If I Go It will Be Double
 +
|24/7a
 +
|14 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains.
 +
|-
 +
|7.
 +
|Throw The Chicken
 +
|9/4
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|8.
 +
|Mediocre Youth
 +
|21/6b+
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Smigelskis
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|9.
 +
|Two For The Show
 +
|17/5c
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|10.
 +
|Vision Thing
 +
|23/6c+
 +
|12 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2003
 +
|
 +
|}
  
 
== Supertubes ==
 
== Supertubes ==
Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
 
  
=Crag Overview=
+
Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
 
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu.  The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat).  This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.
 
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu.  The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat).  This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.
  
=How to get there=
+
[[File:Supertubes.jpg||Supertubes Crag in Badkloof, Montagu]]
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office. Walk into Bad Kloof as you would if you were walking towards the Avalon Springs.  Follow the path until it crosses the river. The crag is at the river crossing on the south side of the kloof.
+
 
+
=Fees, Permits, Etc=
+
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof.  A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.
+
  
=Crag Photo=
 
[[File:Supertubes.jpg||Supertubes Crag in Badkloof, Montagu]]
 
  
=Route List=
+
*'''Supertubes Route List'''
Supertubes Routes from Left to Right
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right.
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|#
 
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 
|GRADE
 
|GRADE
|# OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS)
+
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 
|DESCRIPTION
 
|DESCRIPTION
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|1.
 
|Wax my Gun and have some Fun
 
|Wax my Gun and have some Fun
|21
+
|21/6b+
 
|6 Bolts
 
|6 Bolts
|T Hyde 1999
+
|
|route is on the far left of the crag
+
|FA. T Hyde. 1999.
 +
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|2.
 
|The Dumper
 
|The Dumper
|15
+
|15/5b
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
|Stuart Brown 2004
+
|
 +
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|3.
 
|Beach Break
 
|Beach Break
|19  
+
|19/6a+
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
|Stuart Brown 2004
+
|
 +
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|4.
 
|Whoa She Poopie
 
|Whoa She Poopie
|29  
+
|29/7c+
 
|10 Bolts
 
|10 Bolts
|BB Sean Maasch / OB Justin Hawkins 1998
+
|
|Originally graded 30/8a
+
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998.
 +
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|5.
 
|Point Break
 
|Point Break
|30
+
|29/7c+
 
|10 Bolts
 
|10 Bolts
|Jono Fisher 1991
+
|
|Originally graded 29
+
|FA. Jono Fisher. 1991.
 +
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|6.
 
|Rad and Bad  
 
|Rad and Bad  
|29
+
|29/7c+
 
|10 Bolts
 
|10 Bolts
|Mike Roberts 1991
 
 
|
 
|
 +
|FA. Mike Roberts. 1991.
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|7.
 +
|Surf and Turf
 +
|23/6c+
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
| <add FA>
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|8.
 
|Leap Tide
 
|Leap Tide
|27  
+
|27/7b+
 
|9 Bolts
 
|9 Bolts
|Stuart Brown 2004
+
|
 +
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
 
|Shares same chains as Thruster
 
|Shares same chains as Thruster
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|9.
 
|Thruster
 
|Thruster
|26
+
|26/7b
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
|Sean Maasch 1992
+
|
|one of the most climbed routes in Montagu
+
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1992.
 +
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|10.
 
|Triple Stinger  
 
|Triple Stinger  
|26
+
|26/7b
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
|Sean Maasch 1991
+
|
 +
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1991.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|11.
 
|J-Bay  
 
|J-Bay  
|28
+
|28/7c
 
|9 Bolts
 
|9 Bolts
|D Wiemar 1997
 
 
|
 
|
 +
|FA. D Wiemar. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|12.
 +
|Wipe Out
 +
|30/8a
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012.
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|13.
 
|Hypoxia  
 
|Hypoxia  
|29  
+
|29/7c+
 
|7 Bolts
 
|7 Bolts
|G Hoerhager 1996
+
|
|the roof route over the bench
+
|FA. G Hoerhager. 1996.
 +
|
 
|-
 
|-
 +
|14.
 
|First Wave
 
|First Wave
|24/25  
+
|25/7a+
 
|5 Bolts
 
|5 Bolts
|Jeremy Ward 1998
+
|
 +
|FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|15.
 +
| <unknown>
 +
| <add details>
 +
|
 +
|
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
  
== Photo Gallery ==
 
 
<gallery>
 
<gallery>
 
<!-- Place any pictures from this crag below.  Add a picture by typing File:imagename.extension  -->
 
<!-- Place any pictures from this crag below.  Add a picture by typing File:imagename.extension  -->
Line 191: Line 536:
 
</gallery>
 
</gallery>
  
== The Hotel ==
 
  
The Hotel Routes -
+
== Pipeline ==
  
* The Key 7b+/27
+
*'''Pipeline Route List'''
* The Bell Boys 7b/26
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.
* U Like Jamin 6c/23
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
* Rim Service 7a/24
+
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
| <Open Project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
| <Open Project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
| <Open Project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
| <Open Project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|}
  
== The Swamp ==
 
  
Routes -
+
== South Park ==
* Gruff 7b/26
+
 
* Route Do Me 7b+/27
+
*'''South Park Route List'''
* Gluttony 7c+/29
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.
* Where Eagles Dare 5-/16
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
* There Lurks the 4+/13
+
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Cartman Gets an Anal Probe
 +
|7a/25
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. C Bruton. 1999.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Who Killed Kenny?
 +
|7b+/27
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.
 +
|
 +
|}
  
 
== The Palace ==
 
== The Palace ==
 +
*'''The Palace Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Bad Cop, No Donut
 +
|24/7a
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Samson. 2004.
 +
|Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Elegantly Wasted
 +
|26/7b
 +
|10 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|S''1''0''2''
 +
|25/7a+
 +
|10 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Orton. 2004.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Icarus
 +
|23/6c+
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|<unknown>
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Lexi's Route
 +
|25/7a+
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
| <unknown>
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|Cyberpunk
 +
|25/7a+
 +
|9 Bolts
 +
|*****
 +
|FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|7.
 +
|MoonaBoos
 +
|27/7b+
 +
|10 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Orton. 1999.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|8.
 +
|Shagadelic
 +
|23/6c+
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Orton. 2000
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|9.
 +
|Burning Chrome
 +
|28/7c
 +
|14 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. R Nattrass. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|10.
 +
|Judge Dredd
 +
|29/7c+
 +
|13 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|11.
 +
|Strange Days
 +
|31/8a+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. E Wiercx. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|12.
 +
|About Time
 +
|27/7b+
 +
|12 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|13.
 +
|The Activist
 +
|30/8a
 +
|11 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|14.
 +
|The Neuromancer
 +
|23/6c+
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|15.
 +
|Mad Max
 +
|21/6b+
 +
|14 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
 +
|-
 +
|16.
 +
|Psycho Ranger
 +
|20/6b
 +
|13 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
 +
|}
  
== Uriah Heep ==
 
Uriah Heep Routes -
 
  
* Love Machine 6b+/22
+
== The Swamp ==
* Stealin' 6b+/22
+
* Digital Bitch 7b/26
+
* Demons and Wizards 7b+/28
+
* Easy Living 7b/26
+
* November Afternoon 6c/23
+
* July Morning 6b+/22
+
* Firefly 6a/19
+
  
== Waterworld ==
+
*'''The Swamp Route List'''
Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk, Morning shade
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right. Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Gruff
 +
|7b/26
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Route Do Me
 +
|7b+/27
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Maasch. 1994.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Gluttony
 +
|7c+/29
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Samson. 1996.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Where Eagles Dare
 +
|5c/16
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|On the slab.
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|There Lurks the Boogie-Man
 +
|5a/13
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2002.
 +
|On the slab.
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|Disprin
 +
|25/7a+
 +
|10 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996.
 +
|This route is above the last 2 routes.
 +
|}
  
= History =
 
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds.  Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today.  Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. 
 
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
 
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base!  In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)
 
  
 +
== Playground ==
  
 +
*'''Playground Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Jungle Gym Junkie
 +
|5c/18
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Gowans. 1993.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Jungle Jim
 +
|6a/19
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|See Saw
 +
|4/15
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|The Jester
 +
|6c+/24
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. R Suter. 1992.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Party-on Wayne
 +
|7a/25
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|Jus Klup Ut
 +
|7b+/27
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|7.
 +
|Powerplay
 +
|7a+/25
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. E February. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|8.
 +
|Fun in the Sun
 +
|6b+/22
 +
|3 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Gowans. 1994.
 +
|
 +
|}
  
= Topo =
 
[[Image:waterworld_topo_image.jpg]]
 
  
= Route List =
+
== Uriah Heep ==
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
+
 
 +
*'''Uriah Heep Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 249: Line 919:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|1.
 
|1.
|Monkey See Monkey Do
+
|Love Machine
|19/6a/6a+
+
|6b+/22
|8B
+
|6 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
+
|FA. P McCann. 1998.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|2.  
+
|2.
|Arendsig
+
|Stealin'
|18/6a
+
|6b+/22
|8B
+
|9 Bolts
|*****
+
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
+
|FA. G Hart. 1993.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|3.  
+
|3.
|Walk On By
+
|Digital Bitch
|23/6c+
+
|7b/26
|8B
+
|6 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
+
|FA. P Becker. 1993.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|4.  
+
|4.
|Dynamo Hum Project
+
|Demons and Wizards
|Project
+
|7b+/28
 +
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1994.
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown.  
+
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Easy Living
 +
|7b/26
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. D Pothier. 1993.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|5.  
+
|6.
|Simply Irresistable
+
|November Afternoon
|27/7b+
+
|6c/23
|4B
+
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007.
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
|(Branches left)
+
|Top jug broken off Jan 2013
 
|-
 
|-
|5b
+
|7.
|The Singularity
+
|July Morning
|29/7C+  
+
|6b+/22
 +
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010
 
|(veers right)
 
 
|-
 
|-
|6.  
+
|8.
|Firestarter!
+
|Firefly
|29/7c+
+
|6a/19
|9B
+
|6 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|FA. P McCann. 1998.
 
|
 
|
 +
|}
 +
 +
 +
== The Arete ==
 +
*'''The Arete Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
|7.  
+
|#
|My Route Down By The River
+
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
|31/8a+
+
|GRADE
|10B
+
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Savage Me
 +
|24/7a
 +
|6 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|FA. S Downing. 1994
 
|
 
|
 +
|}
 +
 +
== Berlin Wall ==
 +
 +
*'''Berlin Wall Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. Routes from LEFT to right.
 +
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
|8.  
+
|#
|Chongalolo
+
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Minefield
 +
|6c/22
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Vays und Meenz
 +
|7a/24
 +
|11 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Streef Bogananoff
 +
|7a/24
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 2002.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Hot Toddy Bension
 +
|7c/28
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Brandenburg Gate
 +
|6b+/21
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. M Jåger
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
 +
|27/7b+
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|7.
 +
| <open project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|BB. Stuart Brown
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
== Worlds Apart ==
 +
*'''Worlds Apart Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.
 +
 
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Reflections
 +
|25/7a+
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. R Suter. 1995
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 
|Project
 
|Project
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
|BB: Matt Bush.
+
|
 +
|BB. R Suter
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|9.  
+
|3.
|Twist And Crawl
+
|Delete Button
 +
|26/7b
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Colenso. 1993
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Yankee Rose
 +
|29/7c+
 +
|9 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Colenso. 1992
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Voices
 +
|24/7a
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. J Colenso. 1991.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|Daze of Thunder
 
|28/7c
 
|28/7c
|12B
+
|7 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1991.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|10.  
+
|7.
|The Mission
+
|Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project.
 +
|32/8b
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|<Open>
 +
|ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished.
 +
|-
 +
|8.
 +
|Whispering Echo
 +
|10/4
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|9.
 +
|Little Jack Horner
 +
|15/5b
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|10.
 +
|Kojak
 +
|18/6a
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|11.
 +
|Rolling Stones
 
|24/7a
 
|24/7a
|5B
+
|6 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996.
+
|FA. M Jäger. 1992.
|This is the original route at Waterworld.
+
|Retro bolted by S Brown
 
|-
 
|-
|11.  
+
|12.
|Sidewinder
+
|Sukmeov
 +
|22/6c
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. D Gawlowski. 1994.
 +
|
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
== Jurrasic Park ==
 +
 
 +
*'''Jurrasic Park Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.
 +
 
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Against the Grain
 +
|7c/28
 +
|7 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. Jamson. 1995.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Jabulani
 +
|7c/28
 +
|9 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|Big Bag Voodoo
 +
|5/17
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
| <project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|Masawattee
 +
|35/8c+
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|Nugget Slab
 +
|18/6a
 +
|8 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991.
 +
|On slab opposing overhang.
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== The Laundry ==
 +
 
 +
*'''The Laundry Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. Routes from LEFT to right.
 +
 
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Super Blue
 
|24/7a
 
|24/7a
|6B
+
|5 Bolts
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|FA. J Orton. 1998.
 
|
 
|
 
|-
 
|-
|12.  
+
|2.
|Creepy Crawly
+
|Stay Soft
|20/6a+
+
|26/7b
|6B
+
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Downing. 1998.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
| <open project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
| <open project>
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|
 
|
 
|
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
 
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
  
 +
== The Rage ==
  
 +
*'''The Rage Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Bullet in the Head
 +
|31/8a+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1995.
 +
|This route is manufactured.
 +
|}
 +
 +
== The Hotel ==
 +
 +
*'''The Hotel Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|The Key
 +
|27/7b+
 +
|5 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|The bellboys, The bellboys
 +
|26/7b
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1997
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|U Like Jamin?
 +
|23/6c+
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
 +
|Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|Rim Service
 +
|24/7a
 +
|6 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
 +
|
 +
|}
 +
 +
 +
== The Bar ==
 +
*'''The Bar Route List'''
 +
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
 +
|GRADE
 +
|# BOLTS
 +
|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|Savanna
 +
|19/6a+
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|Captain Morgan
 +
|19/6a+
 +
|4 Bolts
 +
|
 +
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
 +
|
 +
|}
 
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Revision as of 08:53, 23 January 2013

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How to get there

Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.

Fees, Permits, Etc

Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.

Bad Kloof Climbing Map

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Crags in Bad Kloof

The Penthouse

  • The Penthouse Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. <Project> BB. C Martinengo.
2. Pet of the Month 27/7b+ 5 Bolts FA. J Samson. 1997.
3. Groping in the Dark 24/7a 4 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.

Waterworld

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.

  • Waterworld History

Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable. In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

Waterworld Topo

  • WaterworldRoute List

Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Monkey See Monkey Do 19/6a/6a+ 8 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
2. Arendsig 18/6a 8 Bolts ***** BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
3. Walk On By 23/6c+ 8 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
4. Some Would Say 26/7b 7 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.
5. Simply Irresistable 27/7b+ 5 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007. (Branches left)
5.b The Singularity 29/7c+ 5 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010 (veers right)
6. Firestarter! 29/7c+ 9 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
7. My Route Down By The River 31/8a+ 10 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
8. Chongalolo Project BB: Matt Bush.
9. Twist And Crawl 28/7c 12 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
10. The Mission 24/7a 5 Bolts BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996. This is the original route at Waterworld.
11. Sidewinder 24/7a 6 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
12. Creepy Crawly 20/6a+ 6 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.


Peanut Gallery

  • Peanut Gallery Route List

Bad Kloof Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Good Day for Basketball 22/6c 4 Bolts FA. R Holwill. 1997.
2. Finding Ningo 27/7b+ 5 Bolts FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
3. <unknown> 31/8a+ FA. <unknown>


Lion Said

  • Lion Said Route List

Bad Kloof From Left to Right. As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Short Cut 21/6b+ 3 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
2. Short, Sharp, Shock! 23/6c+ 3 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
3. Come Short 25/7a+ 3 Bolts BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002.
4. Hello Aloe 15/ 5b 13 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
5. Devil Speak 21/6b+ 9 Bolts FA. K Schumann. 1998.


Sloth Crag

  • Sloth Crag Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Sunshine Reggae 15/5b 9 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground.
2. One For The Money 17/5c 5 Bolts FA. S Brown 2002.
3. Rattle and Hum 24/7a 5 bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
4. Beautiful Day 25/7a+ 5 Bolts FA. J Orton. 2002
5. Sloth 25/7a+ 5 Bolts FA. J Samson. 1996
6. If I Go It will Be Double 24/7a 14 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains.
7. Throw The Chicken 9/4 5 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002.
8. Mediocre Youth 21/6b+ 4 Bolts FA. M Smigelskis
9. Two For The Show 17/5c 5 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002
10. Vision Thing 23/6c+ 12 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2003

Supertubes

Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

Supertubes Crag in Badkloof, Montagu


  • Supertubes Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from Left to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Wax my Gun and have some Fun 21/6b+ 6 Bolts FA. T Hyde. 1999.
2. The Dumper 15/5b 7 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
3. Beach Break 19/6a+ 7 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
4. Whoa She Poopie 29/7c+ 10 Bolts BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998.
5. Point Break 29/7c+ 10 Bolts FA. Jono Fisher. 1991.
6. Rad and Bad 29/7c+ 10 Bolts FA. Mike Roberts. 1991.
7. Surf and Turf 23/6c+ 7 Bolts <add FA>
8. Leap Tide 27/7b+ 9 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2004. Shares same chains as Thruster
9. Thruster 26/7b 7 Bolts FA. Sean Maasch. 1992.
10. Triple Stinger 26/7b 7 Bolts FA. Sean Maasch. 1991.
11. J-Bay 28/7c 9 Bolts FA. D Wiemar. 1997.
12. Wipe Out 30/8a 5 Bolts FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012.
13. Hypoxia 29/7c+ 7 Bolts FA. G Hoerhager. 1996.
14. First Wave 25/7a+ 5 Bolts FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998.
15. <unknown> <add details>


Pipeline

  • Pipeline Route List

Bad Kloof There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. <Open Project>
2. <Open Project>
3. <Open Project>
4. <Open Project>


South Park

  • South Park Route List

Bad Kloof The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Cartman Gets an Anal Probe 7a/25 7 Bolts FA. C Bruton. 1999.
2. Who Killed Kenny? 7b+/27 5 Bolts FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.

The Palace

  • The Palace Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Bad Cop, No Donut 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. J Samson. 2004. Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs
2. Elegantly Wasted 26/7b 10 Bolts FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999.
3. S102 25/7a+ 10 Bolts FA. J Orton. 2004.
4. Icarus 23/6c+ <unknown>
5. Lexi's Route 25/7a+ 7 Bolts <unknown>
6. Cyberpunk 25/7a+ 9 Bolts ***** FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
7. MoonaBoos 27/7b+ 10 Bolts FA. J Orton. 1999.
8. Shagadelic 23/6c+ 8 Bolts FA. J Orton. 2000
9. Burning Chrome 28/7c 14 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1995.
10. Judge Dredd 29/7c+ 13 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
11. Strange Days 31/8a+ 5 Bolts FA. E Wiercx. 1997.
12. About Time 27/7b+ 12 Bolts FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
13. The Activist 30/8a 11 Bolts FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
14. The Neuromancer 23/6c+ 8 Bolts FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
15. Mad Max 21/6b+ 14 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. 13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
16. Psycho Ranger 20/6b 13 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. 15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.


The Swamp

  • The Swamp Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from Left to Right. Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Gruff 7b/26 4 Bolts FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
2. Route Do Me 7b+/27 4 Bolts FA. S Maasch. 1994.
3. Gluttony 7c+/29 4 Bolts FA. J Samson. 1996.
4. Where Eagles Dare 5c/16 7 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. On the slab.
5. There Lurks the Boogie-Man 5a/13 8 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2002. On the slab.
6. Disprin 25/7a+ 10 Bolts FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996. This route is above the last 2 routes.


Playground

  • Playground Route List

Bad Kloof Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Jungle Gym Junkie 5c/18 4 Bolts FA. M Gowans. 1993.
2. Jungle Jim 6a/19 4 Bolts FA. C Curson. 1995.
3. See Saw 4/15 3 Bolts FA. C Curson. 1995.
4. The Jester 6c+/24 3 Bolts FA. R Suter. 1992.
5. Party-on Wayne 7a/25 3 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993.
6. Jus Klup Ut 7b+/27 3 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993.
7. Powerplay 7a+/25 4 Bolts FA. E February. 1995.
8. Fun in the Sun 6b+/22 3 Bolts FA. M Gowans. 1994.


Uriah Heep

  • Uriah Heep Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Love Machine 6b+/22 6 Bolts FA. P McCann. 1998.
2. Stealin' 6b+/22 9 Bolts FA. G Hart. 1993.
3. Digital Bitch 7b/26 6 Bolts FA. P Becker. 1993.
4. Demons and Wizards 7b+/28 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1994.
5. Easy Living 7b/26 5 Bolts FA. D Pothier. 1993.
6. November Afternoon 6c/23 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993. Top jug broken off Jan 2013
7. July Morning 6b+/22 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993.
8. Firefly 6a/19 6 Bolts FA. P McCann. 1998.


The Arete

  • The Arete Route List

Bad Kloof On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Savage Me 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. S Downing. 1994

Berlin Wall

  • Berlin Wall Route List

Bad Kloof This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Minefield 6c/22 5 Bolts FA. M Jåger. 1992.
2. Vays und Meenz 7a/24 11 Bolts FA. M Jåger. 1992.
3. Streef Bogananoff 7a/24 8 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 2002.
4. Hot Toddy Bension 7c/28 7 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.
5. Brandenburg Gate 6b+/21 8 Bolts FA. M Jåger
6. Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27 27/7b+ 4 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.
7. <open project> BB. Stuart Brown

Worlds Apart

  • Worlds Apart Route List

Bad Kloof Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Reflections 25/7a+ 6 Bolts FA. R Suter. 1995
2. Project BB. R Suter
3. Delete Button 26/7b 6 Bolts FA. J Colenso. 1993
4. Yankee Rose 29/7c+ 9 Bolts FA. J Colenso. 1992
5. Voices 24/7a 4 Bolts FA. J Colenso. 1991.
6. Daze of Thunder 28/7c 7 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1991.
7. Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project. 32/8b 7 Bolts <Open> ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished.
8. Whispering Echo 10/4 8 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2004.
9. Little Jack Horner 15/5b 8 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2004.
10. Kojak 18/6a 6 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2004.
11. Rolling Stones 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. M Jäger. 1992. Retro bolted by S Brown
12. Sukmeov 22/6c 7 Bolts FA. D Gawlowski. 1994.

Jurrasic Park

  • Jurrasic Park Route List

Bad Kloof Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Against the Grain 7c/28 7 Bolts FA. Jamson. 1995.
2. Jabulani 7c/28 9 Bolts FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999
3. Big Bag Voodoo 5/17
4. <project>
5. Masawattee 35/8c+ BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009.
6. Nugget Slab 18/6a 8 Bolts BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991. On slab opposing overhang.


The Laundry

  • The Laundry Route List

Bad Kloof Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. Routes from LEFT to right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Super Blue 24/7a 5 Bolts FA. J Orton. 1998.
2. Stay Soft 26/7b 5 Bolts FA. S Downing. 1998.
3. <open project>
4. <open project>

The Rage

  • The Rage Route List

Bad Kloof Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Bullet in the Head 31/8a+ 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1995. This route is manufactured.

The Hotel

  • The Hotel Route List

Bad Kloof Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. The Key 27/7b+ 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.
2. The bellboys, The bellboys 26/7b 6 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997
3. U Like Jamin? 23/6c+ 6 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
4. Rim Service 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1997.


The Bar

  • The Bar Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Savanna 19/6a+ 4 Bolts FA. D Marshall. 2001.
2. Captain Morgan 19/6a+ 4 Bolts FA. D Marshall. 2001.

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