Difference between revisions of "Bad Kloof"
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>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page | >> Back to [[Montagu]] main page | ||
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=How to get there= | =How to get there= | ||
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs. | Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs. | ||
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=Fees, Permits, Etc= | =Fees, Permits, Etc= | ||
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office. | Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office. | ||
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= Bad Kloof Climbing Map = | = Bad Kloof Climbing Map = | ||
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-33.771515, 20.116188|Uriah Heap | -33.771515, 20.116188|Uriah Heap | ||
</display_points> | </display_points> | ||
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== The Penthouse == | == The Penthouse == | ||
+ | As seen from upriver looking downriver. | ||
+ | [[File:Waterworld_3.jpg|800px]] | ||
− | |||
− | |||
− | + | The Penthouse Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park) | |
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{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
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== Waterworld == | == Waterworld == | ||
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Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul. | Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul. | ||
− | + | '''Waterworld History''' | |
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. | Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. | ||
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable. | In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable. | ||
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/) | In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/) | ||
− | [[ | + | [[File:Waterworld_4.jpg|800px]] |
− | + | Waterworld Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park) | |
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 139: | Line 136: | ||
|(Branches left) | |(Branches left) | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |6. |
|The Singularity | |The Singularity | ||
|29/7c+ | |29/7c+ | ||
Line 147: | Line 144: | ||
|(veers right) | |(veers right) | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |7. |
|Firestarter! | |Firestarter! | ||
|29/7c+ | |29/7c+ | ||
Line 155: | Line 152: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |8. |
|My Route Down By The River | |My Route Down By The River | ||
|31/8a+ | |31/8a+ | ||
Line 163: | Line 160: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |9. |
|Chongalolo | |Chongalolo | ||
|Project | |Project | ||
Line 171: | Line 168: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |10. |
|Twist And Crawl | |Twist And Crawl | ||
|28/7c | |28/7c | ||
Line 179: | Line 176: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |11. |
|The Mission | |The Mission | ||
|24/7a | |24/7a | ||
Line 187: | Line 184: | ||
|This is the original route at Waterworld. | |This is the original route at Waterworld. | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |12. |
|Sidewinder | |Sidewinder | ||
|24/7a | |24/7a | ||
Line 195: | Line 192: | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | |13. |
|Creepy Crawly | |Creepy Crawly | ||
|20/6a+ | |20/6a+ | ||
Line 206: | Line 203: | ||
== Peanut Gallery == | == Peanut Gallery == | ||
+ | Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. | ||
+ | [[File:Peanut_b.JPG|600px]] | ||
− | + | Routes LEFT to Right. | |
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
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− | + | == Lion Said == | |
− | + | As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade. | |
+ | Lion Said Routes From Left to Right. | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
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== Sloth Crag == | == Sloth Crag == | ||
− | + | Sloth Crag Routes from Left to Right | |
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
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Line 394: | Line 391: | ||
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|} | |} | ||
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== Supertubes == | == Supertubes == | ||
− | |||
Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base | Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base | ||
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly. | Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly. | ||
− | [[File:Supertubes1.JPG]] | + | [[File:Supertubes1.JPG|800px]] |
− | + | ||
− | + | Supertubes Routes from Left to Right. | |
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
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</gallery> | </gallery> | ||
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− | + | == Pipeline == | |
− | + | There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right. | |
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 590: | Line 584: | ||
== South Park == | == South Park == | ||
− | + | The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. | |
− | + | South Park Routes LEFT to Right. | |
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
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Line 619: | Line 612: | ||
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|} | |} | ||
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== The Palace == | == The Palace == | ||
− | + | The Palace Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right | |
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{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
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Line 663: | Line 656: | ||
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− | | | + | |BB&FA. S Brown. 2010 |
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Line 765: | Line 758: | ||
== The Swamp == | == The Swamp == | ||
− | + | Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings. | |
− | + | The Swamp Routes from Left to Right. | |
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{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 829: | Line 821: | ||
== Playground == | == Playground == | ||
− | + | Small crag right of The Swamp. | |
− | + | Playground Routes LEFT to Right. | |
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 909: | Line 900: | ||
== Uriah Heep == | == Uriah Heep == | ||
− | + | Uriah Heep Routes from Left to Right | |
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{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 989: | Line 978: | ||
== The Arete == | == The Arete == | ||
− | + | On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep. | |
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 1,010: | Line 998: | ||
|} | |} | ||
− | |||
− | + | == Berlin Wall == | |
− | + | This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. | |
+ | Berlin Wall Routes from LEFT to right. | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 1,081: | Line 1,069: | ||
|BB. Stuart Brown | |BB. Stuart Brown | ||
|} | |} | ||
+ | |||
== Worlds Apart == | == Worlds Apart == | ||
− | + | Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. | |
− | + | ||
+ | Worlds Apart Routes from LEFT to right. | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 1,193: | Line 1,182: | ||
|} | |} | ||
− | |||
− | + | == Jurrasic Park == | |
− | + | Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. | |
+ | Jurrasic Park Routes from LEFT to right. | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 1,213: | Line 1,202: | ||
|7 Bolts | |7 Bolts | ||
| | | | ||
− | |FA. | + | |FA. J Samson. 1995. |
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 1,241: | Line 1,230: | ||
|- | |- | ||
|5. | |5. | ||
− | | | + | |Mazawattee |
|35/8c+ | |35/8c+ | ||
| | | | ||
Line 1,259: | Line 1,248: | ||
== The Laundry == | == The Laundry == | ||
+ | Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. | ||
− | + | The Laundry Routes from LEFT to right. | |
− | + | ||
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 1,305: | Line 1,293: | ||
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|} | |} | ||
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== The Rage == | == The Rage == | ||
+ | Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs. | ||
− | + | The Rage Routes from Left to Right | |
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 1,328: | Line 1,317: | ||
|This route is manufactured. | |This route is manufactured. | ||
|} | |} | ||
+ | |||
== The Hotel == | == The Hotel == | ||
+ | Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel. | ||
− | + | The Hotel Routes from Left to Right | |
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 1,378: | Line 1,368: | ||
== The Bar == | == The Bar == | ||
− | + | The Bar Routes from Left to Right | |
− | + | ||
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | {| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" | ||
|- | |- | ||
Line 1,406: | Line 1,395: | ||
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|} | |} | ||
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>> Back to [[Montagu]] page | >> Back to [[Montagu]] page |
Revision as of 11:19, 17 February 2013
>> Back to Montagu main page
Contents
- 1 How to get there
- 2 Fees, Permits, Etc
- 3 Bad Kloof Climbing Map
- 3.1 The Penthouse
- 3.2 Waterworld
- 3.3 Peanut Gallery
- 3.4 Lion Said
- 3.5 Sloth Crag
- 3.6 Supertubes
- 3.7 Pipeline
- 3.8 South Park
- 3.9 The Palace
- 3.10 The Swamp
- 3.11 Playground
- 3.12 Uriah Heep
- 3.13 The Arete
- 3.14 Berlin Wall
- 3.15 Worlds Apart
- 3.16 Jurrasic Park
- 3.17 The Laundry
- 3.18 The Rage
- 3.19 The Hotel
- 3.20 The Bar
How to get there
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.
Fees, Permits, Etc
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.
Bad Kloof Climbing Map
The Penthouse
As seen from upriver looking downriver.
The Penthouse Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | <Project> | BB. C Martinengo. | ||||
2. | Pet of the Month | 27/7b+ | 5 Bolts | FA. J Samson. 1997. | ||
3. | Groping in the Dark | 24/7a | 4 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997. |
Waterworld
Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.
Waterworld History Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable. In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)
Waterworld Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Monkey See Monkey Do | 19/6a/6a+ | 8 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009. | ||
2. | Arendsig | 18/6a | 8 Bolts | ***** | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007. | |
3. | Walk On By | 23/6c+ | 8 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007. | ||
4. | Some Would Say | 26/7b | 7 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013. | ||
5. | Simply Irresistable | 27/7b+ | 5 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007. | (Branches left) | |
6. | The Singularity | 29/7c+ | 5 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010 | (veers right) | |
7. | Firestarter! | 29/7c+ | 9 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
8. | My Route Down By The River | 31/8a+ | 10 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
9. | Chongalolo | Project | BB: Matt Bush. | |||
10. | Twist And Crawl | 28/7c | 12 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009. | ||
11. | The Mission | 24/7a | 5 Bolts | BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996. | This is the original route at Waterworld. | |
12. | Sidewinder | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
13. | Creepy Crawly | 20/6a+ | 6 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. |
Peanut Gallery
Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags.
Routes LEFT to Right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Good Day for Basketball | 22/6c | 4 Bolts | FA. R Holwill. 1997. | ||
2. | Finding Ningo | 27/7b+ | 5 Bolts | FA. C Martinengo. 2004. | ||
3. | Duende | 32/8b | FA. Matt Bush. |
Lion Said
As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.
Lion Said Routes From Left to Right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Short Cut | 21/6b+ | 3 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
2. | Short, Sharp, Shock! | 23/6c+ | 3 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
3. | Come Short | 25/7a+ | 3 Bolts | BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002. | ||
4. | Hello Aloe | 15/ 5b | 13 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
5. | Devil Speak | 21/6b+ | 9 Bolts | FA. K Schumann. 1998. |
Sloth Crag
Sloth Crag Routes from Left to Right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Sunshine Reggae | 15/5b | 9 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground. | |
2. | One For The Money | 17/5c | 5 Bolts | FA. S Brown 2002. | ||
3. | Rattle and Hum | 24/7a | 5 bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
4. | Beautiful Day | 25/7a+ | 5 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 2002 | ||
5. | Sloth | 25/7a+ | 5 Bolts | FA. J Samson. 1996 | ||
6. | If I Go It will Be Double | 24/7a | 14 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains. | |
7. | Throw The Chicken | 9/4 | 5 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
8. | Mediocre Youth | 21/6b+ | 4 Bolts | FA. M Smigelskis | ||
9. | Two For The Show | 17/5c | 5 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002 | ||
10. | Vision Thing | 23/6c+ | 12 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2003 |
Supertubes
Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.
Supertubes Routes from Left to Right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Wax my Gun and have some Fun | 21/6b+ | 6 Bolts | FA. T Hyde. 1999. | ||
2. | The Dumper | 15/5b | 7 Bolts | FA. Stuart Brown. 2004. | ||
3. | Beach Break | 19/6a+ | 7 Bolts | FA. Stuart Brown. 2004. | ||
4. | Whoa She Poopie | 29/7c+ | 10 Bolts | BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998. | ||
5. | Point Break | 29/7c+ | 10 Bolts | FA. Jono Fisher. 1991. | ||
6. | Rad and Bad | 29/7c+ | 10 Bolts | FA. Mike Roberts. 1991. | ||
7. | Surf and Turf | 23/6c+ | 7 Bolts | <add FA> | ||
8. | Leap Tide | 27/7b+ | 9 Bolts | FA. Stuart Brown. 2004. | Shares same chains as Thruster | |
9. | Thruster | 26/7b | 7 Bolts | FA. Sean Maasch. 1992. | ||
10. | Triple Stinger | 26/7b | 7 Bolts | FA. Sean Maasch. 1991. | ||
11. | J-Bay | 28/7c | 9 Bolts | FA. D Wiemar. 1997. | ||
12. | Wipe-Out | 31/8a+ | 5 Bolts | FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012. | ||
13. | Hypoxia | 29/7c+ | 7 Bolts | FA. G Hoerhager. 1996. | ||
14. | First Wave | 25/7a+ | 5 Bolts | FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998. | ||
15. | <unknown> | <add details> |
Pipeline
There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | <Open Project> | |||||
2. | <Open Project> | |||||
3. | <Open Project> | |||||
4. | <Open Project> |
South Park
The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. South Park Routes LEFT to Right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Cartman Gets an Anal Probe | 7a/25 | 7 Bolts | FA. C Bruton. 1999. | ||
2. | Who Killed Kenny? | 7b+/27 | 5 Bolts | FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000. |
The Palace
The Palace Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Bad Cop, No Donut | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | FA. J Samson. 2004. | Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs | |
2. | Elegantly Wasted | 26/7b | 10 Bolts | FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999. | ||
3. | S102 | 25/7a+ | 10 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 2004. | ||
4. | Icarus | 23/6c+ | BB&FA. S Brown. 2010 | |||
5. | Lexi's Route | 25/7a+ | 7 Bolts | <unknown> | ||
6. | Cyberpunk | 25/7a+ | 9 Bolts | ***** | FA. R Nattrass. 1996. | |
7. | MoonaBoos | 27/7b+ | 10 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 1999. | ||
8. | Shagadelic | 23/6c+ | 8 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 2000 | ||
9. | Burning Chrome | 28/7c | 14 Bolts | FA. R Nattrass. 1995. | ||
10. | Judge Dredd | 29/7c+ | 13 Bolts | FA. R Nattrass. 1996. | ||
11. | Strange Days | 31/8a+ | 5 Bolts | FA. E Wiercx. 1997. | ||
12. | About Time | 27/7b+ | 12 Bolts | FA. C Martinengo. 2004. | ||
13. | The Activist | 30/8a | 11 Bolts | FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995. | ||
14. | The Neuromancer | 23/6c+ | 8 Bolts | FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995. | ||
15. | Mad Max | 21/6b+ | 14 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | 13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches. | |
16. | Psycho Ranger | 20/6b | 13 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | 15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches. |
The Swamp
Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings. The Swamp Routes from Left to Right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Gruff | 7b/26 | 4 Bolts | FA. S Bradshaw. 1995. | ||
2. | Route Do Me | 7b+/27 | 4 Bolts | FA. S Maasch. 1994. | ||
3. | Gluttony | 7c+/29 | 4 Bolts | FA. J Samson. 1996. | ||
4. | Where Eagles Dare | 5c/16 | 7 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | On the slab. | |
5. | There Lurks the Boogie-Man | 5a/13 | 8 Bolts | FA. Stuart Brown. 2002. | On the slab. | |
6. | Disprin | 25/7a+ | 10 Bolts | FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996. | This route is above the last 2 routes. |
Playground
Small crag right of The Swamp. Playground Routes LEFT to Right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Jungle Gym Junkie | 5c/18 | 4 Bolts | FA. M Gowans. 1993. | ||
2. | Jungle Jim | 6a/19 | 4 Bolts | FA. C Curson. 1995. | ||
3. | See Saw | 4/15 | 3 Bolts | FA. C Curson. 1995. | ||
4. | The Jester | 6c+/24 | 3 Bolts | FA. R Suter. 1992. | ||
5. | Party-on Wayne | 7a/25 | 3 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1993. | ||
6. | Jus Klup Ut | 7b+/27 | 3 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1993. | ||
7. | Powerplay | 7a+/25 | 4 Bolts | FA. E February. 1995. | ||
8. | Fun in the Sun | 6b+/22 | 3 Bolts | FA. M Gowans. 1994. |
Uriah Heep
Uriah Heep Routes from Left to Right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Love Machine | 6b+/22 | 6 Bolts | FA. P McCann. 1998. | ||
2. | Stealin' | 6b+/22 | 9 Bolts | FA. G Hart. 1993. | ||
3. | Digital Bitch | 7b/26 | 6 Bolts | FA. P Becker. 1993. | ||
4. | Demons and Wizards | 7b+/28 | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1994. | ||
5. | Easy Living | 7b/26 | 5 Bolts | FA. D Pothier. 1993. | ||
6. | November Afternoon | 6c/23 | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1993. | Top jug broken off Jan 2013 | |
7. | July Morning | 6b+/22 | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1993. | ||
8. | Firefly | 6a/19 | 6 Bolts | FA. P McCann. 1998. |
The Arete
On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Savage Me | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | FA. S Downing. 1994 |
Berlin Wall
This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs.
Berlin Wall Routes from LEFT to right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Minefield | 6c/22 | 5 Bolts | FA. M Jåger. 1992. | ||
2. | Vays und Meenz | 7a/24 | 11 Bolts | FA. M Jåger. 1992. | ||
3. | Streef Bogananoff | 7a/24 | 8 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 2002. | ||
4. | Hot Toddy Bension | 7c/28 | 7 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997. | ||
5. | Brandenburg Gate | 6b+/21 | 8 Bolts | FA. M Jåger | ||
6. | Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27 | 27/7b+ | 4 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997. | ||
7. | <open project> | BB. Stuart Brown |
Worlds Apart
Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.
Worlds Apart Routes from LEFT to right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Reflections | 25/7a+ | 6 Bolts | FA. R Suter. 1995 | ||
2. | Project | BB. R Suter | ||||
3. | Delete Button | 26/7b | 6 Bolts | FA. J Colenso. 1993 | ||
4. | Yankee Rose | 29/7c+ | 9 Bolts | FA. J Colenso. 1992 | ||
5. | Voices | 24/7a | 4 Bolts | FA. J Colenso. 1991. | ||
6. | Daze of Thunder | 28/7c | 7 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1991. | ||
7. | Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project. | 32/8b | 7 Bolts | <Open> | ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished. | |
8. | Whispering Echo | 10/4 | 8 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2004. | ||
9. | Little Jack Horner | 15/5b | 8 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2004. | ||
10. | Kojak | 18/6a | 6 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2004. | ||
11. | Rolling Stones | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | FA. M Jäger. 1992. | Retro bolted by S Brown | |
12. | Sukmeov | 22/6c | 7 Bolts | FA. D Gawlowski. 1994. |
Jurrasic Park
Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.
Jurrasic Park Routes from LEFT to right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Against the Grain | 7c/28 | 7 Bolts | FA. J Samson. 1995. | ||
2. | Jabulani | 7c/28 | 9 Bolts | FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999 | ||
3. | Big Bag Voodoo | 5/17 | ||||
4. | <project> | |||||
5. | Mazawattee | 35/8c+ | BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009. | |||
6. | Nugget Slab | 18/6a | 8 Bolts | BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991. | On slab opposing overhang. |
The Laundry
Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park.
The Laundry Routes from LEFT to right.
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Super Blue | 24/7a | 5 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 1998. | ||
2. | Stay Soft | 26/7b | 5 Bolts | FA. S Downing. 1998. | ||
3. | <open project> | |||||
4. | <open project> |
The Rage
Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.
The Rage Routes from Left to Right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Bullet in the Head | 31/8a+ | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1995. | This route is manufactured. |
The Hotel
Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
The Hotel Routes from Left to Right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | The Key | 27/7b+ | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997. | ||
2. | The bellboys, The bellboys | 26/7b | 6 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997 | ||
3. | U Like Jamin? | 23/6c+ | 6 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently. | |
4. | Rim Service | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997. |
The Bar
The Bar Routes from Left to Right
# | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
1. | Savanna | 19/6a+ | 4 Bolts | FA. D Marshall. 2001. | ||
2. | Captain Morgan | 19/6a+ | 4 Bolts | FA. D Marshall. 2001. |
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