Difference between revisions of "Bad Kloof"

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>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page
 
>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page
 +
 +
=Online Topo=
 +
http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/bad-kloof/
 +
__NOTOC__
  
 
=How to get there=
 
=How to get there=
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office. Walk into Bad Kloof as you would if you were walking towards the Avalon Springs.  Follow the path until it crosses the river. The crag is at the river crossing on the south side of the kloof.
+
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.
 +
 
  
 
=Fees, Permits, Etc=
 
=Fees, Permits, Etc=
 
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof.  A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.
 
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof.  A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.
 +
  
 
= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =
 
= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =
<display_points type="satellite" height="500">
+
<display_points type="satellite" height="500" width="800">
 
-33.781209,  20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
 
-33.781209,  20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
 
-33.779165,  20.112353|Eyssenhuis
 
-33.779165,  20.112353|Eyssenhuis
Line 29: Line 35:
  
  
= Crags in Bad Kloof =
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{| class="wikitable"
 
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== Berlin Wall ==
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Berlin Wall Routes - This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap.
+
 
+
* Minefield 6b+/22
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* Vays und Meenz 7a/24
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* Streef Bogananoff 7a/24
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* Hot Toddy Bension 7c/28
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* Brandenburg Gate 6b/21
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* Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
+
 
+
== Jurrasic Park ==
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Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade
+
 
+
* Against the Grain 7c/28
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* Jabulani 7c/28
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* Big Bag Voodoo 5/17
+
Masawattee 35/8c+ The long line with the slab behind it - [Mazawattee (35/8c+) goes down!] Bolted by Sean Maasch. FA: Adam Ondra 27 July 2009
+
 
+
== Laundry ==
+
 
+
== Lion Said ==
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Lion Said Routes - from L to R As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort of crag on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth.
+
 
+
* Hello Aloe 5-/15
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* Devil Speak 6b+/21
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* Short Cut 6b+/21
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* Short, Sharp, Shock!! 6c+/23
+
* Come Short 7a+/25
+
 
+
== Peanut Gallery ==
+
 
+
== Pipeline ==
+
Pipeline Routes - There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. Grades all about 32ish. 8a/8a+. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end.
+
 
+
 
+
== Playground ==
+
 
+
Playground Routes -
+
 
+
* Jungle Gym Junkie 5c/18
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* Jungle Jim 6a/19
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* See Saw 4/15
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* The Jester 6c+/24
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* Party-on Wayne 7a/25
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* Jus Klup Ut 7b+/27
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* Powerplay 7a+/25
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* Fun in the Sun 6b+/22
+
 
+
== Rage ==
+
Rage Routes -
+
 
+
* Bullet in the Head 8a/31
+
 
+
 
+
== Sloth ==
+
 
+
== South Park ==
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South Park Routes - On the right hand side between Supertubes and the Palace.
+
 
+
* Cartman gets 7a/25
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* Who Killed Kenny 7b+/27
+
 
+
== Supertubes ==
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Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
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Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu.  The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat).  This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.
+
 
+
[[File:Supertubes.jpg||Supertubes Crag in Badkloof, Montagu]]
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+
 
+
Supertubes Routes from Left to Right
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{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
! Feature Image !! Link & Description
|GRADE
+
|# OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS)
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
 
|-
 
|-
|Wax my Gun and have some Fun
+
| Example || [[Lovers Lane]]
|21
+
 
|6 Bolts
+
1 - 5 min walk. Morning shade. 4 routes. Easiest: 8. Hardest: 23. GPS: -33.784248,20.116684
|T Hyde 1999
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|route is on the far left of the crag
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|-
 
|-
|The Dumper
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| Example || [[The Bastard]]
|15
+
 
|7 Bolts
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This is the 1st bit of climbable rock on the right hand side of the the Kloof when walking in from the Old Mill side. Walk up from the right side for less than a minute (on the right side of the weir). This crag get morning shade. 1 - 5 min walk. 2 routes. Easiest: 18
|Stuart Brown 2004
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Hardest: 21. GPS: -33.779451,20.113412
|
+
 
|-
 
|-
|Beach Break
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| Example || [[Waterworld]]
|19
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|7 Bolts
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Waterworld is one of the favorite crags in Montagu. It’s child friendly and the route named Arendsig (Eagles View) is one the best 19’s ever. It’s the first crag on the right when you walk from Die Ou Meul. 5 - 15 min walk . 13 routes. Easiest: 19. Hardest: 33. Morning shade. GPS: -33.776248,20.116096
|Stuart Brown 2004
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|
+
 
|-
 
|-
|Whoa She Poopie
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| Example || [[The Penthouse]]
|29
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|10 Bolts
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|BB Sean Maasch / OB Justin Hawkins 1998
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|Originally graded 30/8a
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|-
 
|-
|Point Break
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| Example || [[Peanut Gallery]]
|30
+
 
|10 Bolts
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Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade. 5 routes. Easiest: 22. Hardest: 32. GPS: -33.775864,20.116799
|Jono Fisher 1991
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|Originally graded 29
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|-
 
|-
|Rad and Bad
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| [[File:20110117-sloth.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[Sloth]]
|29
+
 
|10 Bolts
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Sloth crag is quite a popular crag as is has a nice range of routes and the crag base is stable (in that it never gets negatively affected by flooding). This crag has morning shade, easy access and is very child friendly. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade. 10 routes.
|Mike Roberts 1991
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Easiest: 15. Hardest: 25. GPS: -33.775253,20.117633
|
+
 
|-
 
|-
|Leap Tide
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| Example || [[Supertubes]]
|27
+
 
|9 Bolts
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Supertubes is an awesome overhanging crag with a couple of easier lines to warm up on. The walk in is flat and short, this is an excellent crag for children. Be sure to climb the classic route Thruster. 5 - 15 min walk. 15 routes. Easiest: 15. Hardest: 29. GPS: -33.775125,20.11766
|Stuart Brown 2004
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|Shares same chains as Thruster
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|-
 
|-
|Thruster
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| [[File:20121105 lionsaid.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[Lion Said]]
|26
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|7 Bolts
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Lion Said gets all day shade and the two easiest routes on the right are excellent for beginners. 15 - 30 min walk. All day shade. 5 routes. Easiest: 15. Hardest: 25. GPS: -33.774854,20.117176
|Sean Maasch 1992
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|one of the most climbed routes in Montagu
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|-
 
|-
|Triple Stinger
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| [[File:20130716 IMG 1383 pipeline.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[Pipeline]]
|26
+
 
|7 Bolts
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The Pipeline has become famous since Sasha DiGuilian opened Miss Behaving (8b+) during her 2013 South African visit. There are only 4 routes at the Pipeline so far, the two remaining projects should prove to be VERY HARD – probably somewhere around the 9a grade.
|Sean Maasch 1991
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30 min. - 1 hour walk. Morning shade. 4 routes.Easiest: 32. Hardest: 33. GPS: -33.774559,20.119565
|
+
 
|-
 
|-
|J-Bay
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| [[File:20050403 southpark.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[South Park]]
|28
+
 
|9 Bolts
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The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. 15 - 30 min walk. Morning shade. 2 routes. Easiest: 25. Hardest: 27. GPS: -33.773276,20.120052
|D Wiemar 1997
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|
+
 
|-
 
|-
|Hypoxia
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| [[File:20040815 126 2670 palace.jpg|thumb|link=]]  || [[Palace]]
|29
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|7 Bolts
+
The Palace is the massive overhanging crag seen at the corner of Bad Kloof. The crag is as good as it looks and has a good base and steep quality routes with Cyberpunk and The Activist being the all time classic routes at the crag. 30 min. - 1 hour walk. Morning shade. 16 routes. Easiest: 20. Hardest: 31. GPS: -33.773426,20.120633
|G Hoerhager 1996
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|the roof route over the bench
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|-
 
|-
|First Wave
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| [[File:20111229 IMG 0057 swamp.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[Swamp]]
|24/25
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|5 Bolts
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|Jeremy Ward 1998
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|
+
|}
+
  
<gallery>
+
The swamp has easy and hard routes but unfortunately the base is flooded out at the moment. 30 min. - 1 hour walk. Afternoon shade. 6 routes. Easiest: 13. Hardest: 26. GPS: -33.771835,20.118093
<!-- Place any pictures from this crag below. Add a picture by typing File:imagename.extension  -->
+
|-
 +
| [[File:20040815 playground.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[Playground]]
  
File:Stu leaptide.jpg
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Small crag right of The Swamp. 15 - 30 min walk.  Afternoon shade. 8 routes. Easiest: 15. Hardest: 27. GPS: -33.771814,20.117901
 +
|-
 +
| [[File:20040815 uriah heep.jpg|thumb|link=]] ||  [[Uriah Heep]]
  
<!-- Do not remove the end gallery code.-->
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Uriah Heep has immaculate rock, is slightly over hanging and pumpy as hell. The base requires a small scramble to get up to and is not child friendly. 15 - 30 min walk. Afternoon shade. 8 routes. Easiest: 19. Hardest: 28. GPS: -33.771515,20.116188
</gallery>
+
|-
 +
| Example ||  [[The Arete]]
  
== The Hotel ==
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On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep. 5 - 15 min walk. Afternoon shade 1 route. Grade 24. GPS: -33.771598,20.115687
 +
|-
 +
| [[File:20050410 berlinwall.jpg|thumb|link=]] ||  [[Berlin Wall]]
  
The Hotel Routes -
+
This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. 5 - 15 min walk. All day shade 7 routes. Easiest: 21. Hardest: 28. GPS: -33.769928,20.114097
 +
|-
 +
| [[File:Mazawattee climb montagu.jpg|thumb|link=]] ||  [[Worlds Apart]]
  
* The Key 7b+/27
+
Worlds Apart is a 5 min walk from Avalon Springs and gets Morning Shade. Daze of Thunder 7b+/27 was the first sport route in Montagu and has since become a classic. 1 - 5 min walk. Morning shade 12 routes. Easiest: 10. Hardest: 32. GPS: -33.769769,20.115271
* The Bell Boys 7b/26
+
|-
* U Like Jamin 6c/23
+
| Example ||  [[Rage]]
* Rim Service 7a/24
+
  
== The Swamp ==
+
ark at the Avalon Springs and walk in for about 5 mins. The Rage is a short grey wall (almost opposite the Laundry) on the right side of the kloof when walking in from Avalon Springs side. This crag is shaded all day. It’s over-hanging and the one and only bouldery route is manufactured (the holds have been chipped into the rock). NB: chipping has been banned in SA. 5 - 15 min walk. All day shade 1 routes. Grade 31. GPS: -33.767415,20.115001
 +
|-
 +
| Example || [[Camelot]]
  
Routes -
+
1 - 5 min walk. 2 routes.  Easiest: 22. Hardest: 23. GPS: -33.767447,20.115064
* Gruff 7b/26
+
|-
* Route Do Me 7b+/27
+
| [[File:Mazawattee climb montagu.jpg|thumb|link=]] ||  [[Jurassic Park]]
* Gluttony 7c+/29
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* Where Eagles Dare 5-/16
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* There Lurks the 4+/13
+
  
== The Palace ==
+
The crag with the hardest route in South Africa. Mazawattee is graded 8c+ by Adam Ondra. Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade and Late Afternoon Shade. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade 4 routes. Easiest: 18. Hardest: 35. GPS: -33.769408,20.115578
 +
|-
 +
| [[File:20050510 223 2373 laundry.jpg|thumb|link=]] ||  [[The Laundry]]
  
== Uriah Heep ==
+
Park at the Avalon Springs and walk in for about 5 mins. Scramble up the slope just before Jurassic Park. This crag is shaded in the morning. It’s over-hanging and it is possible to climb here in the rain. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade 4 routes. Easiest: 24. Hardest: 29. GPS: -33.76848333333,20.11645
Uriah Heep Routes -
+
|-
 +
| Example || [[The Hotel]]
  
* Love Machine 6b+/22
+
Inside Avalon Springs Resort. 1 - 5 min walk. Morning shade 4 routes. Easiest: 18. Hardest: 27. GPS: -33.76692,20.115977
* Stealin' 6b+/22
+
* Digital Bitch 7b/26
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* Demons and Wizards 7b+/28
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* Easy Living 7b/26
+
* November Afternoon 6c/23
+
* July Morning 6b+/22
+
* Firefly 6a/19
+
 
+
== Waterworld ==
+
Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk, Morning shade
+
 
+
*'''Waterworld History'''
+
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds.  Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. 
+
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
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In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base!  In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)
+
 
+
[[Image:waterworld_topo_image.jpg|Waterworld Topo]]
+
 
+
*'''WaterworldRoute List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
|-
+
|#
+
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Monkey See Monkey Do
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|19/6a/6a+
+
|8B
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|Arendsig
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|18/6a
+
|8B
+
|*****
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
|Walk On By
+
|23/6c+
+
|8B
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
|Dynamo Hum Project
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|Project
+
|
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown.
+
|
+
|-
+
|5.
+
|Simply Irresistable
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|27/7b+
+
|4B
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007.
+
|(Branches left)
+
|-
+
|5b
+
|The Singularity
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|29/7C+
+
|
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010
+
|(veers right)
+
|-
+
|6.  
+
|Firestarter!
+
|29/7c+
+
|9B
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|
+
|-
+
|7.
+
|My Route Down By The River
+
|31/8a+
+
|10B
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|
+
|-
+
|8.
+
|Chongalolo
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|Project
+
|
+
|
+
|BB: Matt Bush.
+
|
+
|-
+
|9.
+
|Twist And Crawl
+
|28/7c
+
|12B
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
+
|
+
|-
+
|10.
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|The Mission
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|24/7a
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|5B
+
|
+
|BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996.
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|This is the original route at Waterworld.
+
|-
+
|11.
+
|Sidewinder
+
|24/7a
+
|6B
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|
+
|-
+
|12.
+
|Creepy Crawly
+
|20/6a+
+
|6B
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|
+
 
|}
 
|}
 
 
>> Back to [[Montagu]] page
 

Latest revision as of 11:29, 15 December 2014

>> Back to Montagu main page

Online Topo

http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/bad-kloof/


How to get there

Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.


Fees, Permits, Etc

Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.


Bad Kloof Climbing Map

Loading map...


Feature Image Link & Description
Example Lovers Lane

1 - 5 min walk. Morning shade. 4 routes. Easiest: 8. Hardest: 23. GPS: -33.784248,20.116684

Example The Bastard

This is the 1st bit of climbable rock on the right hand side of the the Kloof when walking in from the Old Mill side. Walk up from the right side for less than a minute (on the right side of the weir). This crag get morning shade. 1 - 5 min walk. 2 routes. Easiest: 18 Hardest: 21. GPS: -33.779451,20.113412

Example Waterworld

Waterworld is one of the favorite crags in Montagu. It’s child friendly and the route named Arendsig (Eagles View) is one the best 19’s ever. It’s the first crag on the right when you walk from Die Ou Meul. 5 - 15 min walk . 13 routes. Easiest: 19. Hardest: 33. Morning shade. GPS: -33.776248,20.116096

Example The Penthouse
Example Peanut Gallery

Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade. 5 routes. Easiest: 22. Hardest: 32. GPS: -33.775864,20.116799

20110117-sloth.jpg
Sloth

Sloth crag is quite a popular crag as is has a nice range of routes and the crag base is stable (in that it never gets negatively affected by flooding). This crag has morning shade, easy access and is very child friendly. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade. 10 routes. Easiest: 15. Hardest: 25. GPS: -33.775253,20.117633

Example Supertubes

Supertubes is an awesome overhanging crag with a couple of easier lines to warm up on. The walk in is flat and short, this is an excellent crag for children. Be sure to climb the classic route Thruster. 5 - 15 min walk. 15 routes. Easiest: 15. Hardest: 29. GPS: -33.775125,20.11766

20121105 lionsaid.jpg
Lion Said

Lion Said gets all day shade and the two easiest routes on the right are excellent for beginners. 15 - 30 min walk. All day shade. 5 routes. Easiest: 15. Hardest: 25. GPS: -33.774854,20.117176

20130716 IMG 1383 pipeline.jpg
Pipeline

The Pipeline has become famous since Sasha DiGuilian opened Miss Behaving (8b+) during her 2013 South African visit. There are only 4 routes at the Pipeline so far, the two remaining projects should prove to be VERY HARD – probably somewhere around the 9a grade. 30 min. - 1 hour walk. Morning shade. 4 routes.Easiest: 32. Hardest: 33. GPS: -33.774559,20.119565

20050403 southpark.jpg
South Park

The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. 15 - 30 min walk. Morning shade. 2 routes. Easiest: 25. Hardest: 27. GPS: -33.773276,20.120052

20040815 126 2670 palace.jpg
Palace

The Palace is the massive overhanging crag seen at the corner of Bad Kloof. The crag is as good as it looks and has a good base and steep quality routes with Cyberpunk and The Activist being the all time classic routes at the crag. 30 min. - 1 hour walk. Morning shade. 16 routes. Easiest: 20. Hardest: 31. GPS: -33.773426,20.120633

20111229 IMG 0057 swamp.jpg
Swamp

The swamp has easy and hard routes but unfortunately the base is flooded out at the moment. 30 min. - 1 hour walk. Afternoon shade. 6 routes. Easiest: 13. Hardest: 26. GPS: -33.771835,20.118093

20040815 playground.jpg
Playground

Small crag right of The Swamp. 15 - 30 min walk. Afternoon shade. 8 routes. Easiest: 15. Hardest: 27. GPS: -33.771814,20.117901

20040815 uriah heep.jpg
Uriah Heep

Uriah Heep has immaculate rock, is slightly over hanging and pumpy as hell. The base requires a small scramble to get up to and is not child friendly. 15 - 30 min walk. Afternoon shade. 8 routes. Easiest: 19. Hardest: 28. GPS: -33.771515,20.116188

Example The Arete

On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep. 5 - 15 min walk. Afternoon shade 1 route. Grade 24. GPS: -33.771598,20.115687

20050410 berlinwall.jpg
Berlin Wall

This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. 5 - 15 min walk. All day shade 7 routes. Easiest: 21. Hardest: 28. GPS: -33.769928,20.114097

Mazawattee climb montagu.jpg
Worlds Apart

Worlds Apart is a 5 min walk from Avalon Springs and gets Morning Shade. Daze of Thunder 7b+/27 was the first sport route in Montagu and has since become a classic. 1 - 5 min walk. Morning shade 12 routes. Easiest: 10. Hardest: 32. GPS: -33.769769,20.115271

Example Rage

ark at the Avalon Springs and walk in for about 5 mins. The Rage is a short grey wall (almost opposite the Laundry) on the right side of the kloof when walking in from Avalon Springs side. This crag is shaded all day. It’s over-hanging and the one and only bouldery route is manufactured (the holds have been chipped into the rock). NB: chipping has been banned in SA. 5 - 15 min walk. All day shade 1 routes. Grade 31. GPS: -33.767415,20.115001

Example Camelot

1 - 5 min walk. 2 routes. Easiest: 22. Hardest: 23. GPS: -33.767447,20.115064

Mazawattee climb montagu.jpg
Jurassic Park

The crag with the hardest route in South Africa. Mazawattee is graded 8c+ by Adam Ondra. Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade and Late Afternoon Shade. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade 4 routes. Easiest: 18. Hardest: 35. GPS: -33.769408,20.115578

20050510 223 2373 laundry.jpg
The Laundry

Park at the Avalon Springs and walk in for about 5 mins. Scramble up the slope just before Jurassic Park. This crag is shaded in the morning. It’s over-hanging and it is possible to climb here in the rain. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade 4 routes. Easiest: 24. Hardest: 29. GPS: -33.76848333333,20.11645

Example The Hotel

Inside Avalon Springs Resort. 1 - 5 min walk. Morning shade 4 routes. Easiest: 18. Hardest: 27. GPS: -33.76692,20.115977