Difference between revisions of "Bad Kloof"

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>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page
 
>> Back to [[Montagu]] main page
 +
 +
=Online Topo=
 +
http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/bad-kloof/
 +
__NOTOC__
  
 
=How to get there=
 
=How to get there=
 
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.
 
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.
 +
  
 
=Fees, Permits, Etc=
 
=Fees, Permits, Etc=
 
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof.  A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.
 
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof.  A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.
 +
  
 
= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =
 
= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =
<display_points type="satellite" height="500">
+
<display_points type="satellite" height="500" width="800">
 
-33.781209,  20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
 
-33.781209,  20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
 
-33.779165,  20.112353|Eyssenhuis
 
-33.779165,  20.112353|Eyssenhuis
Line 29: Line 35:
  
  
= Crags in Bad Kloof =
+
{| class="wikitable"
 
+
 
+
== The Penthouse ==
+
*'''The Penthouse Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
! Feature Image !! Link & Description
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
 
|-
 
|-
|1.
+
| Example || [[Lovers Lane]]
|<Project>
+
 
|
+
1 - 5 min walk. Morning shade. 4 routes. Easiest: 8. Hardest: 23. GPS: -33.784248,20.116684
|
+
|
+
|BB. C Martinengo.
+
|
+
 
|-
 
|-
|2.
+
| Example || [[The Bastard]]
|Pet of the Month
+
 
|27/7b+
+
This is the 1st bit of climbable rock on the right hand side of the the Kloof when walking in from the Old Mill side. Walk up from the right side for less than a minute (on the right side of the weir). This crag get morning shade. 1 - 5 min walk. 2 routes. Easiest: 18
|5 Bolts
+
Hardest: 21. GPS: -33.779451,20.113412
|
+
|FA. J Samson. 1997.
+
|
+
 
|-
 
|-
|3.
+
| Example || [[Waterworld]]
|Groping in the Dark
+
|24/7a
+
|4 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
+
|
+
|}
+
  
== Waterworld ==
+
Waterworld is one of the favorite crags in Montagu. It’s child friendly and the route named Arendsig (Eagles View) is one the best 19’s ever. It’s the first crag on the right when you walk from Die Ou Meul. 5 - 15 min walk . 13 routes. Easiest: 19. Hardest: 33. Morning shade. GPS: -33.776248,20.116096
 
+
Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.
+
 
+
*'''Waterworld History'''
+
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment.
+
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
+
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base!  In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)
+
 
+
[[Image:waterworld_topo_image.jpg|Waterworld Topo]]
+
 
+
*'''WaterworldRoute List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| Example || [[The Penthouse]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
 
|-
 
|-
|1.
+
| Example || [[Peanut Gallery]]
|Monkey See Monkey Do
+
|19/6a/6a+
+
|8 Bolts
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|Arendsig
+
|18/6a
+
|8 Bolts
+
|*****
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
|Walk On By
+
|23/6c+
+
|8 Bolts
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
|Some Would Say
+
|26/7b
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.
+
|
+
|-
+
|5.
+
|Simply Irresistable
+
|27/7b+
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007.
+
|(Branches left)
+
|-
+
|5.b
+
|The Singularity
+
|29/7c+
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010
+
|(veers right)
+
|-
+
|6.
+
|Firestarter!
+
|29/7c+
+
|9 Bolts
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|
+
|-
+
|7.
+
|My Route Down By The River
+
|31/8a+
+
|10 Bolts
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|
+
|-
+
|8.
+
|Chongalolo
+
|Project
+
|
+
|
+
|BB: Matt Bush.
+
|
+
|-
+
|9.
+
|Twist And Crawl
+
|28/7c
+
|12 Bolts
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
+
|
+
|-
+
|10.
+
|The Mission
+
|24/7a
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996.
+
|This is the original route at Waterworld.
+
|-
+
|11.
+
|Sidewinder
+
|24/7a
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|
+
|-
+
|12.
+
|Creepy Crawly
+
|20/6a+
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
+
|
+
|}
+
  
 
+
Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade. 5 routes. Easiest: 22. Hardest: 32. GPS: -33.775864,20.116799
== Peanut Gallery ==
+
 
+
*'''Peanut Gallery Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.  
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| [[File:20110117-sloth.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[Sloth]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Good Day for Basketball
+
|22/6c
+
|4 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. R Holwill. 1997.
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|Finding Ningo
+
|27/7b+
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
| <unknown>
+
|31/8a+
+
|
+
|
+
|FA. <unknown>
+
|
+
|}
+
  
 
+
Sloth crag is quite a popular crag as is has a nice range of routes and the crag base is stable (in that it never gets negatively affected by flooding). This crag has morning shade, easy access and is very child friendly. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade. 10 routes.
== Lion Said ==
+
Easiest: 15. Hardest: 25. GPS: -33.775253,20.117633
 
+
*'''Lion Said Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' From Left to Right. As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.
+
 
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| Example || [[Supertubes]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Short Cut
+
|21/6b+
+
|3 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|Short, Sharp, Shock!
+
|23/6c+
+
|3 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
|Come Short
+
|25/7a+
+
|3 Bolts
+
|
+
|BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002.
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
|Hello Aloe
+
|15/ 5b
+
|13 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
+
|
+
|-
+
|5.
+
|Devil Speak
+
|21/6b+
+
|9 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. K Schumann. 1998.
+
|
+
|}
+
  
 
+
Supertubes is an awesome overhanging crag with a couple of easier lines to warm up on. The walk in is flat and short, this is an excellent crag for children. Be sure to climb the classic route Thruster. 5 - 15 min walk. 15 routes. Easiest: 15. Hardest: 29. GPS: -33.775125,20.11766
== Sloth Crag ==
+
*'''Sloth Crag Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| [[File:20121105 lionsaid.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[Lion Said]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Sunshine Reggae
+
|15/5b
+
|9 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
+
|P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground.
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|One For The Money
+
|17/5c
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown 2002.
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
|Rattle and Hum
+
|24/7a
+
|5 bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
|Beautiful Day
+
|25/7a+
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. J Orton. 2002
+
|
+
|-
+
|5.
+
|Sloth
+
|25/7a+
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. J Samson. 1996
+
|
+
|-
+
|6.
+
|If I Go It will Be Double
+
|24/7a
+
|14 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
+
|If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains.
+
|-
+
|7.
+
|Throw The Chicken
+
|9/4
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
+
|
+
|-
+
|8.
+
|Mediocre Youth
+
|21/6b+
+
|4 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. M Smigelskis
+
|
+
|-
+
|9.
+
|Two For The Show
+
|17/5c
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002
+
|
+
|-
+
|10.
+
|Vision Thing
+
|23/6c+
+
|12 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2003
+
|
+
|}
+
 
+
== Supertubes ==
+
 
+
Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
+
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu.  The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat).  This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.
+
 
+
[[File:Supertubes.jpg||Supertubes Crag in Badkloof, Montagu]]
+
 
+
  
*'''Supertubes Route List'''
+
Lion Said gets all day shade and the two easiest routes on the right are excellent for beginners. 15 - 30 min walk. All day shade. 5 routes. Easiest: 15. Hardest: 25. GPS: -33.774854,20.117176
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right.  
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| [[File:20130716 IMG 1383 pipeline.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[Pipeline]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Wax my Gun and have some Fun
+
|21/6b+
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. T Hyde. 1999.
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|The Dumper
+
|15/5b
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
|Beach Break
+
|19/6a+
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
|Whoa She Poopie
+
|29/7c+
+
|10 Bolts
+
|
+
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998.
+
|
+
|-
+
|5.
+
|Point Break
+
|29/7c+
+
|10 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. Jono Fisher. 1991.
+
|
+
|-
+
|6.
+
|Rad and Bad
+
|29/7c+
+
|10 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. Mike Roberts. 1991.
+
|-
+
|7.
+
|Surf and Turf
+
|23/6c+
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
| <add FA>
+
|
+
|-
+
|8.
+
|Leap Tide
+
|27/7b+
+
|9 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.
+
|Shares same chains as Thruster
+
|-
+
|9.
+
|Thruster
+
|26/7b
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1992.
+
|
+
|-
+
|10.
+
|Triple Stinger
+
|26/7b
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. Sean Maasch. 1991.
+
|
+
|-
+
|11.
+
|J-Bay
+
|28/7c
+
|9 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. D Wiemar. 1997.
+
|
+
|-
+
|12.
+
|Wipe Out
+
|30/8a
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012.
+
|-
+
|13.
+
|Hypoxia
+
|29/7c+
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Hoerhager. 1996.
+
|
+
|-
+
|14.
+
|First Wave
+
|25/7a+
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998.
+
|
+
|-
+
|15.
+
| <unknown>
+
| <add details>
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|}
+
  
<gallery>
+
The Pipeline has become famous since Sasha DiGuilian opened Miss Behaving (8b+) during her 2013 South African visit. There are only 4 routes at the Pipeline so far, the two remaining projects should prove to be VERY HARD – probably somewhere around the 9a grade.
<!-- Place any pictures from this crag below. Add a picture by typing File:imagename.extension  -->
+
30 min. - 1 hour walk. Morning shade. 4 routes.Easiest: 32. Hardest: 33. GPS: -33.774559,20.119565
 
+
File:Stu leaptide.jpg
+
 
+
<!-- Do not remove the end gallery code.-->
+
</gallery>
+
 
+
 
+
== Pipeline ==
+
 
+
*'''Pipeline Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.  
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| [[File:20050403 southpark.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[South Park]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
| <Open Project>
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
| <Open Project>
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
| <Open Project>
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
| <Open Project>
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|}
+
  
 
+
The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. 15 - 30 min walk. Morning shade. 2 routes. Easiest: 25. Hardest: 27. GPS: -33.773276,20.120052
== South Park ==
+
 
+
*'''South Park Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.  
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| [[File:20040815 126 2670 palace.jpg|thumb|link=]]  || [[Palace]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Cartman Gets an Anal Probe
+
|7a/25
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. C Bruton. 1999.
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|Who Killed Kenny?
+
|7b+/27
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.
+
|
+
|}
+
  
== The Palace ==
+
The Palace is the massive overhanging crag seen at the corner of Bad Kloof. The crag is as good as it looks and has a good base and steep quality routes with Cyberpunk and The Activist being the all time classic routes at the crag. 30 min. - 1 hour walk. Morning shade. 16 routes. Easiest: 20. Hardest: 31. GPS: -33.773426,20.120633
*'''The Palace Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| [[File:20111229 IMG 0057 swamp.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[Swamp]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Bad Cop, No Donut
+
|24/7a
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. J Samson. 2004.
+
|Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|Elegantly Wasted
+
|26/7b
+
|10 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999.
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
|S''1''0''2''
+
|25/7a+
+
|10 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. J Orton. 2004.
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
|Icarus
+
|23/6c+
+
|
+
|
+
|<unknown>
+
|
+
|-
+
|5.
+
|Lexi's Route
+
|25/7a+
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
| <unknown>
+
|
+
|-
+
|6.
+
|Cyberpunk
+
|25/7a+
+
|9 Bolts
+
|*****
+
|FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
+
|
+
|-
+
|7.
+
|MoonaBoos
+
|27/7b+
+
|10 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. J Orton. 1999.
+
|
+
|-
+
|8.
+
|Shagadelic
+
|23/6c+
+
|8 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. J Orton. 2000
+
|
+
|-
+
|9.
+
|Burning Chrome
+
|28/7c
+
|14 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. R Nattrass. 1995.
+
|
+
|-
+
|10.
+
|Judge Dredd
+
|29/7c+
+
|13 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
+
|
+
|-
+
|11.
+
|Strange Days
+
|31/8a+
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. E Wiercx. 1997.
+
|
+
|-
+
|12.
+
|About Time
+
|27/7b+
+
|12 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
+
|
+
|-
+
|13.
+
|The Activist
+
|30/8a
+
|11 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
+
|
+
|-
+
|14.
+
|The Neuromancer
+
|23/6c+
+
|8 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
+
|
+
|-
+
|15.
+
|Mad Max
+
|21/6b+
+
|14 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
+
|13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.  
+
|-
+
|16.
+
|Psycho Ranger
+
|20/6b
+
|13 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
+
|15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
+
|}
+
  
 
+
The swamp has easy and hard routes but unfortunately the base is flooded out at the moment. 30 min. - 1 hour walk. Afternoon shade. 6 routes. Easiest: 13. Hardest: 26. GPS: -33.771835,20.118093
== The Swamp ==
+
 
+
*'''The Swamp Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right. Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| [[File:20040815 playground.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[Playground]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Gruff
+
|7b/26
+
|4 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|Route Do Me
+
|7b+/27
+
|4 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Maasch. 1994.
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
|Gluttony
+
|7c+/29
+
|4 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. J Samson. 1996.
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
|Where Eagles Dare
+
|5c/16
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
+
|On the slab.
+
|-
+
|5.
+
|There Lurks the Boogie-Man
+
|5a/13
+
|8 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. Stuart Brown. 2002.
+
|On the slab.
+
|-
+
|6.
+
|Disprin
+
|25/7a+
+
|10 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996.
+
|This route is above the last 2 routes.
+
|}
+
  
 
+
Small crag right of The Swamp. 15 - 30 min walk.  Afternoon shade. 8 routes. Easiest: 15. Hardest: 27. GPS: -33.771814,20.117901
== Playground ==
+
 
+
*'''Playground Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| [[File:20040815 uriah heep.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[Uriah Heep]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Jungle Gym Junkie
+
|5c/18
+
|4 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. M Gowans. 1993.
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|Jungle Jim
+
|6a/19
+
|4 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
|See Saw
+
|4/15
+
|3 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. C Curson. 1995.
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
|The Jester
+
|6c+/24
+
|3 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. R Suter. 1992.
+
|
+
|-
+
|5.
+
|Party-on Wayne
+
|7a/25
+
|3 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
+
|
+
|-
+
|6.
+
|Jus Klup Ut
+
|7b+/27
+
|3 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
+
|
+
|-
+
|7.
+
|Powerplay
+
|7a+/25
+
|4 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. E February. 1995.
+
|
+
|-
+
|8.
+
|Fun in the Sun
+
|6b+/22
+
|3 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. M Gowans. 1994.
+
|
+
|}
+
  
 
+
Uriah Heep has immaculate rock, is slightly over hanging and pumpy as hell. The base requires a small scramble to get up to and is not child friendly. 15 - 30 min walk. Afternoon shade. 8 routes. Easiest: 19. Hardest: 28. GPS: -33.771515,20.116188
== Uriah Heep ==
+
 
+
*'''Uriah Heep Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| Example || [[The Arete]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Love Machine
+
|6b+/22
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. P McCann. 1998.
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|Stealin'
+
|6b+/22
+
|9 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Hart. 1993.
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
|Digital Bitch
+
|7b/26
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. P Becker. 1993.
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
|Demons and Wizards
+
|7b+/28
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1994.
+
|
+
|-
+
|5.
+
|Easy Living
+
|7b/26
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. D Pothier. 1993.
+
|
+
|-
+
|6.
+
|November Afternoon
+
|6c/23
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
+
|Top jug broken off Jan 2013
+
|-
+
|7.
+
|July Morning
+
|6b+/22
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1993.
+
|
+
|-
+
|8.
+
|Firefly
+
|6a/19
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. P McCann. 1998.
+
|
+
|}
+
  
 
+
On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep. 5 - 15 min walk. Afternoon shade 1 route. Grade 24. GPS: -33.771598,20.115687
== The Arete ==
+
*'''The Arete Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| [[File:20050410 berlinwall.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[Berlin Wall]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Savage Me
+
|24/7a
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Downing. 1994
+
|
+
|}
+
  
== Berlin Wall ==
+
This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. 5 - 15 min walk. All day shade 7 routes. Easiest: 21. Hardest: 28. GPS: -33.769928,20.114097
 
+
*'''Berlin Wall Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. Routes from LEFT to right.
+
 
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| [[File:Mazawattee climb montagu.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[Worlds Apart]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Minefield
+
|6c/22
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|Vays und Meenz
+
|7a/24
+
|11 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. M Jåger. 1992.
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
|Streef Bogananoff
+
|7a/24
+
|8 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 2002.
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
|Hot Toddy Bension
+
|7c/28
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
+
|
+
|-
+
|5.
+
|Brandenburg Gate
+
|6b+/21
+
|8 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. M Jåger
+
|
+
|-
+
|6.
+
|Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
+
|27/7b+
+
|4 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
+
|
+
|-
+
|7.
+
| <open project>
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|BB. Stuart Brown
+
|}
+
 
+
== Worlds Apart ==
+
*'''Worlds Apart Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.
+
  
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
Worlds Apart is a 5 min walk from Avalon Springs and gets Morning Shade. Daze of Thunder 7b+/27 was the first sport route in Montagu and has since become a classic. 1 - 5 min walk. Morning shade 12 routes. Easiest: 10. Hardest: 32. GPS: -33.769769,20.115271
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| Example || [[Rage]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Reflections
+
|25/7a+
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. R Suter. 1995
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|Project
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|BB. R Suter
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
|Delete Button
+
|26/7b
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. J Colenso. 1993
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
|Yankee Rose
+
|29/7c+
+
|9 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. J Colenso. 1992
+
|
+
|-
+
|5.
+
|Voices
+
|24/7a
+
|4 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. J Colenso. 1991.
+
|
+
|-
+
|6.
+
|Daze of Thunder
+
|28/7c
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1991.
+
|
+
|-
+
|7.
+
|Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project.
+
|32/8b
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
|<Open>
+
|ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished.
+
|-
+
|8.
+
|Whispering Echo
+
|10/4
+
|8 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
+
|
+
|-
+
|9.
+
|Little Jack Horner
+
|15/5b
+
|8 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
+
|
+
|-
+
|10.
+
|Kojak
+
|18/6a
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2004.
+
|
+
|-
+
|11.
+
|Rolling Stones
+
|24/7a
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. M Jäger. 1992.
+
|Retro bolted by S Brown
+
|-
+
|12.
+
|Sukmeov
+
|22/6c
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. D Gawlowski. 1994.
+
|
+
|}
+
 
+
== Jurrasic Park ==
+
 
+
*'''Jurrasic Park Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade. Routes from LEFT to right.
+
  
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
ark at the Avalon Springs and walk in for about 5 mins. The Rage is a short grey wall (almost opposite the Laundry) on the right side of the kloof when walking in from Avalon Springs side. This crag is shaded all day. It’s over-hanging and the one and only bouldery route is manufactured (the holds have been chipped into the rock). NB: chipping has been banned in SA. 5 - 15 min walk. All day shade 1 routes. Grade 31. GPS: -33.767415,20.115001
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| Example || [[Camelot]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Against the Grain
+
|7c/28
+
|7 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. Jamson. 1995.
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|Jabulani
+
|7c/28
+
|9 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Bradshaw Jnr. 1999
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
|Big Bag Voodoo
+
|5/17
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
| <project>
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|-
+
|5.
+
|Masawattee
+
|35/8c+
+
|
+
|
+
|BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Adam Ondra. 2009.
+
|
+
|-
+
|6.
+
|Nugget Slab
+
|18/6a
+
|8 Bolts
+
|
+
|BB. J Terblanche. FA. J Colenso & G Holwill. 1991.
+
|On slab opposing overhang.
+
|}
+
  
 
+
1 - 5 min walk. 2 routes.  Easiest: 22. Hardest: 23. GPS: -33.767447,20.115064
== The Laundry ==
+
 
+
*'''The Laundry Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. Routes from LEFT to right.
+
 
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| [[File:Mazawattee climb montagu.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[Jurassic Park]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Super Blue
+
|24/7a
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. J Orton. 1998.
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|Stay Soft
+
|26/7b
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Downing. 1998.
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
| <open project>
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|-
+
|4.
+
| <open project>
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|
+
|}
+
  
== The Rage ==
+
The crag with the hardest route in South Africa. Mazawattee is graded 8c+ by Adam Ondra. Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade and Late Afternoon Shade. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade 4 routes. Easiest: 18. Hardest: 35. GPS: -33.769408,20.115578
 
+
*'''The Rage Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.  
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| [[File:20050510 223 2373 laundry.jpg|thumb|link=]] || [[The Laundry]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Bullet in the Head
+
|31/8a+
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1995.
+
|This route is manufactured.
+
|}
+
  
== The Hotel ==
+
Park at the Avalon Springs and walk in for about 5 mins. Scramble up the slope just before Jurassic Park. This crag is shaded in the morning. It’s over-hanging and it is possible to climb here in the rain. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade 4 routes. Easiest: 24. Hardest: 29. GPS: -33.76848333333,20.11645
 
+
*'''The Hotel Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
 
|-
 
|-
|#
+
| Example || [[The Hotel]]
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|The Key
+
|27/7b+
+
|5 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|The bellboys, The bellboys
+
|26/7b
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1997
+
|
+
|-
+
|3.
+
|U Like Jamin?
+
|23/6c+
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. S Brown. 2002.
+
|Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently.
+
|-
+
|4.
+
|Rim Service
+
|24/7a
+
|6 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. G Holwill. 1997.
+
|
+
|}
+
  
 
+
Inside Avalon Springs Resort. 1 - 5 min walk. Morning shade 4 routes. Easiest: 18. Hardest: 27. GPS: -33.76692,20.115977
== The Bar ==
+
*'''The Bar Route List'''
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right
+
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
+
|-
+
|#
+
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
+
|GRADE
+
|# BOLTS
+
|RATING
+
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
+
|DESCRIPTION
+
|-
+
|1.
+
|Savanna
+
|19/6a+
+
|4 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
+
|
+
|-
+
|2.
+
|Captain Morgan
+
|19/6a+
+
|4 Bolts
+
|
+
|FA. D Marshall. 2001.
+
|
+
 
|}
 
|}
>> Back to [[Montagu]] page
 

Latest revision as of 11:29, 15 December 2014

>> Back to Montagu main page

Online Topo

http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/bad-kloof/


How to get there

Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.


Fees, Permits, Etc

Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.


Bad Kloof Climbing Map

Loading map...


Feature Image Link & Description
Example Lovers Lane

1 - 5 min walk. Morning shade. 4 routes. Easiest: 8. Hardest: 23. GPS: -33.784248,20.116684

Example The Bastard

This is the 1st bit of climbable rock on the right hand side of the the Kloof when walking in from the Old Mill side. Walk up from the right side for less than a minute (on the right side of the weir). This crag get morning shade. 1 - 5 min walk. 2 routes. Easiest: 18 Hardest: 21. GPS: -33.779451,20.113412

Example Waterworld

Waterworld is one of the favorite crags in Montagu. It’s child friendly and the route named Arendsig (Eagles View) is one the best 19’s ever. It’s the first crag on the right when you walk from Die Ou Meul. 5 - 15 min walk . 13 routes. Easiest: 19. Hardest: 33. Morning shade. GPS: -33.776248,20.116096

Example The Penthouse
Example Peanut Gallery

Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade. 5 routes. Easiest: 22. Hardest: 32. GPS: -33.775864,20.116799

20110117-sloth.jpg
Sloth

Sloth crag is quite a popular crag as is has a nice range of routes and the crag base is stable (in that it never gets negatively affected by flooding). This crag has morning shade, easy access and is very child friendly. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade. 10 routes. Easiest: 15. Hardest: 25. GPS: -33.775253,20.117633

Example Supertubes

Supertubes is an awesome overhanging crag with a couple of easier lines to warm up on. The walk in is flat and short, this is an excellent crag for children. Be sure to climb the classic route Thruster. 5 - 15 min walk. 15 routes. Easiest: 15. Hardest: 29. GPS: -33.775125,20.11766

20121105 lionsaid.jpg
Lion Said

Lion Said gets all day shade and the two easiest routes on the right are excellent for beginners. 15 - 30 min walk. All day shade. 5 routes. Easiest: 15. Hardest: 25. GPS: -33.774854,20.117176

20130716 IMG 1383 pipeline.jpg
Pipeline

The Pipeline has become famous since Sasha DiGuilian opened Miss Behaving (8b+) during her 2013 South African visit. There are only 4 routes at the Pipeline so far, the two remaining projects should prove to be VERY HARD – probably somewhere around the 9a grade. 30 min. - 1 hour walk. Morning shade. 4 routes.Easiest: 32. Hardest: 33. GPS: -33.774559,20.119565

20050403 southpark.jpg
South Park

The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. 15 - 30 min walk. Morning shade. 2 routes. Easiest: 25. Hardest: 27. GPS: -33.773276,20.120052

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Palace

The Palace is the massive overhanging crag seen at the corner of Bad Kloof. The crag is as good as it looks and has a good base and steep quality routes with Cyberpunk and The Activist being the all time classic routes at the crag. 30 min. - 1 hour walk. Morning shade. 16 routes. Easiest: 20. Hardest: 31. GPS: -33.773426,20.120633

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Swamp

The swamp has easy and hard routes but unfortunately the base is flooded out at the moment. 30 min. - 1 hour walk. Afternoon shade. 6 routes. Easiest: 13. Hardest: 26. GPS: -33.771835,20.118093

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Playground

Small crag right of The Swamp. 15 - 30 min walk. Afternoon shade. 8 routes. Easiest: 15. Hardest: 27. GPS: -33.771814,20.117901

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Uriah Heep

Uriah Heep has immaculate rock, is slightly over hanging and pumpy as hell. The base requires a small scramble to get up to and is not child friendly. 15 - 30 min walk. Afternoon shade. 8 routes. Easiest: 19. Hardest: 28. GPS: -33.771515,20.116188

Example The Arete

On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep. 5 - 15 min walk. Afternoon shade 1 route. Grade 24. GPS: -33.771598,20.115687

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Berlin Wall

This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. 5 - 15 min walk. All day shade 7 routes. Easiest: 21. Hardest: 28. GPS: -33.769928,20.114097

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Worlds Apart

Worlds Apart is a 5 min walk from Avalon Springs and gets Morning Shade. Daze of Thunder 7b+/27 was the first sport route in Montagu and has since become a classic. 1 - 5 min walk. Morning shade 12 routes. Easiest: 10. Hardest: 32. GPS: -33.769769,20.115271

Example Rage

ark at the Avalon Springs and walk in for about 5 mins. The Rage is a short grey wall (almost opposite the Laundry) on the right side of the kloof when walking in from Avalon Springs side. This crag is shaded all day. It’s over-hanging and the one and only bouldery route is manufactured (the holds have been chipped into the rock). NB: chipping has been banned in SA. 5 - 15 min walk. All day shade 1 routes. Grade 31. GPS: -33.767415,20.115001

Example Camelot

1 - 5 min walk. 2 routes. Easiest: 22. Hardest: 23. GPS: -33.767447,20.115064

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Jurassic Park

The crag with the hardest route in South Africa. Mazawattee is graded 8c+ by Adam Ondra. Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade and Late Afternoon Shade. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade 4 routes. Easiest: 18. Hardest: 35. GPS: -33.769408,20.115578

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The Laundry

Park at the Avalon Springs and walk in for about 5 mins. Scramble up the slope just before Jurassic Park. This crag is shaded in the morning. It’s over-hanging and it is possible to climb here in the rain. 5 - 15 min walk. Morning shade 4 routes. Easiest: 24. Hardest: 29. GPS: -33.76848333333,20.11645

Example The Hotel

Inside Avalon Springs Resort. 1 - 5 min walk. Morning shade 4 routes. Easiest: 18. Hardest: 27. GPS: -33.76692,20.115977