Bad Kloof

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Bad Kloof Climbing Map

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How to get there

Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office. Walk into Bad Kloof as you would if you were walking towards the Avalon Springs. Follow the path until it crosses the river. The crag is at the river crossing on the south side of the kloof.

Fees, Permits, Etc

Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.

Crags in Bad Kloof

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall Routes - This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap.

  • Minefield 6b+/22
  • Vays und Meenz 7a/24
  • Streef Bogananoff 7a/24
  • Hot Toddy Bension 7c/28
  • Brandenburg Gate 6b/21
  • Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27

Jurrasic Park

Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade

  • Against the Grain 7c/28
  • Jabulani 7c/28
  • Big Bag Voodoo 5/17

Masawattee 35/8c+ The long line with the slab behind it - [Mazawattee (35/8c+) goes down!] Bolted by Sean Maasch. FA: Adam Ondra 27 July 2009

Laundry

Lion Said

Lion Said Routes - from L to R As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort of crag on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth.

  • Hello Aloe 5-/15
  • Devil Speak 6b+/21
  • Short Cut 6b+/21
  • Short, Sharp, Shock!! 6c+/23
  • Come Short 7a+/25

Peanut Gallery

Pipeline

Pipeline Routes - There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. Grades all about 32ish. 8a/8a+. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end.


Playground

Playground Routes -

  • Jungle Gym Junkie 5c/18
  • Jungle Jim 6a/19
  • See Saw 4/15
  • The Jester 6c+/24
  • Party-on Wayne 7a/25
  • Jus Klup Ut 7b+/27
  • Powerplay 7a+/25
  • Fun in the Sun 6b+/22

Rage

Rage Routes -

  • Bullet in the Head 8a/31


Sloth

South Park

South Park Routes - On the right hand side between Supertubes and the Palace.

  • Cartman gets 7a/25
  • Who Killed Kenny 7b+/27

Supertubes

Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

Supertubes Crag in Badkloof, Montagu


Supertubes Routes from Left to Right

ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
Wax my Gun and have some Fun 21 6 Bolts T Hyde 1999 route is on the far left of the crag
The Dumper 15 7 Bolts Stuart Brown 2004
Beach Break 19 7 Bolts Stuart Brown 2004
Whoa She Poopie 29 10 Bolts BB Sean Maasch / OB Justin Hawkins 1998 Originally graded 30/8a
Point Break 30 10 Bolts Jono Fisher 1991 Originally graded 29
Rad and Bad 29 10 Bolts Mike Roberts 1991
Leap Tide 27 9 Bolts Stuart Brown 2004 Shares same chains as Thruster
Thruster 26 7 Bolts Sean Maasch 1992 one of the most climbed routes in Montagu
Triple Stinger 26 7 Bolts Sean Maasch 1991
J-Bay 28 9 Bolts D Wiemar 1997
Hypoxia 29 7 Bolts G Hoerhager 1996 the roof route over the bench
First Wave 24/25 5 Bolts Jeremy Ward 1998

The Hotel

The Hotel Routes -

  • The Key 7b+/27
  • The Bell Boys 7b/26
  • U Like Jamin 6c/23
  • Rim Service 7a/24

The Swamp

Routes -

  • Gruff 7b/26
  • Route Do Me 7b+/27
  • Gluttony 7c+/29
  • Where Eagles Dare 5-/16
  • There Lurks the 4+/13

The Palace

Uriah Heep

Uriah Heep Routes -

  • Love Machine 6b+/22
  • Stealin' 6b+/22
  • Digital Bitch 7b/26
  • Demons and Wizards 7b+/28
  • Easy Living 7b/26
  • November Afternoon 6c/23
  • July Morning 6b+/22
  • Firefly 6a/19

Waterworld

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk, Morning shade

Waterworld History

Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable. In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

Waterworld Topo

Waterworld topo image.jpg

WaterworldRoute List

Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Monkey See Monkey Do 19/6a/6a+ 8B BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
2. Arendsig 18/6a 8B ***** BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
3. Walk On By 23/6c+ 8B BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
4. Dynamo Hum Project Project BB: Stuart Brown.
5. Simply Irresistable 27/7b+ 4B BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007. (Branches left)
5b The Singularity 29/7C+ BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010 (veers right)
6. Firestarter! 29/7c+ 9B BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
7. My Route Down By The River 31/8a+ 10B BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
8. Chongalolo Project BB: Matt Bush.
9. Twist And Crawl 28/7c 12B BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
10. The Mission 24/7a 5B BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996. This is the original route at Waterworld.
11. Sidewinder 24/7a 6B BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
12. Creepy Crawly 20/6a+ 6B BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.


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