Bad Kloof

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How to get there

Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office. Walk into Bad Kloof as you would if you were walking towards the Avalon Springs. Follow the path until it crosses the river. The crag is at the river crossing on the south side of the kloof.

Fees, Permits, Etc

Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.

Bad Kloof Climbing Map

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Crags in Bad Kloof

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall Routes - This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap.

  • Minefield 6b+/22
  • Vays und Meenz 7a/24
  • Streef Bogananoff 7a/24
  • Hot Toddy Bension 7c/28
  • Brandenburg Gate 6b/21
  • Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27

Jurrasic Park

Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade

  • Against the Grain 7c/28
  • Jabulani 7c/28
  • Big Bag Voodoo 5/17

Masawattee 35/8c+ The long line with the slab behind it - [Mazawattee (35/8c+) goes down!] Bolted by Sean Maasch. FA: Adam Ondra 27 July 2009

Laundry

Lion Said

Lion Said Routes - from L to R As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort of crag on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth.

  • Hello Aloe 5-/15
  • Devil Speak 6b+/21
  • Short Cut 6b+/21
  • Short, Sharp, Shock!! 6c+/23
  • Come Short 7a+/25

Peanut Gallery

Pipeline

Pipeline Routes - There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. Grades all about 32ish. 8a/8a+. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end.


Playground

Playground Routes -

  • Jungle Gym Junkie 5c/18
  • Jungle Jim 6a/19
  • See Saw 4/15
  • The Jester 6c+/24
  • Party-on Wayne 7a/25
  • Jus Klup Ut 7b+/27
  • Powerplay 7a+/25
  • Fun in the Sun 6b+/22

Rage

Rage Routes -

  • Bullet in the Head 8a/30


Sloth

South Park

  • South Park Route List

Bad Kloof The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Cartman Gets an Anal Probe 7a/25 7 Bolts FA. C Bruton. 1999.
2. Who Killed Kenny? 7b+/27 5 Bolts FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000.

Supertubes

Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

Supertubes Crag in Badkloof, Montagu


Supertubes Routes from Left to Right

ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
Wax my Gun and have some Fun 21 6 Bolts T Hyde 1999 route is on the far left of the crag
The Dumper 15 7 Bolts Stuart Brown 2004
Beach Break 19 7 Bolts Stuart Brown 2004
Whoa She Poopie 29 10 Bolts BB Sean Maasch / OB Justin Hawkins 1998 Originally graded 30/8a
Point Break 30 10 Bolts Jono Fisher 1991 Originally graded 29
Rad and Bad 29 10 Bolts Mike Roberts 1991
Surf and Turf 23 7 Bolts <add FA>
Leap Tide 27 9 Bolts Stuart Brown 2004 Shares same chains as Thruster
Thruster 26 7 Bolts Sean Maasch 1992 one of the most climbed routes in Montagu
Triple Stinger 26 7 Bolts Sean Maasch 1991
J-Bay 28 9 Bolts D Wiemar 1997
<unknown> 31 5 Bolts Clinton Martinengo
Hypoxia 29 7 Bolts G Hoerhager 1996 the roof route over the bench
First Wave 24/25 5 Bolts Jeremy Ward 1998
<unknown> <add details>

The Hotel

The Hotel Routes -

  • The Key 7b+/27
  • The Bell Boys 7b/26
  • U Like Jamin 6c/23
  • Rim Service 7a/24

The Swamp

  • The Swamp Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from Left to Right. Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Gruff 7b/26 4 Bolts FA. S Bradshaw. 1995.
2. Route Do Me 7b+/27 4 Bolts FA. S Maasch. 1994.
3. Gluttony 7c+/29 4 Bolts FA. J Samson. 1996.
4. Where Eagles Dare 5c/16 7 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. On the slab.
5. There Lurks the Boogie-Man 5a/13 8 Bolts FA. Stuart Brown. 2002. On the slab.
6. Disprin 25/7a+ 10 Bolts FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996. This route is above the last 2 routes.

The Palace

  • The Palace Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Bad Cop, No Donut 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. J Samson. 2004. Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs
2. Elegantly Wasted 26/7b 10 Bolts FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999.
3. S102 25/7a+ 10 Bolts FA. J Orton. 2004.
4. Lexi's Route 25/7a+ 7 Bolts <unknown>
5. Cyberpunk 25/7a+ 9 Bolts ***** FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
6. MoonaBoos 27/7b+ 10 Bolts FA. J Orton. 1999.
7. Shagadelic 23/6c+ 8 Bolts FA. J Orton. 2000
8. Burning Chrome 28/7c 14 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1995.
9. Judge Dredd 29/7c+ 13 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1996.
10. Strange Days 31/8a+ 5 Bolts FA. E Wiercx. 1997.
11. About Time 27/7b+ 12 Bolts FA. C Martinengo. 2004.
12. The Activist 30/8a 11 Bolts FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
13. The Neuromancer 23/6c+ 8 Bolts FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995.
14. Mad Max 21/6b+ 14 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. 13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.
15. Psycho Ranger 20/6b 13 Bolts FA. S Brown. 2002. 15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches.

Uriah Heep

  • Uriah Heep Route List

Bad Kloof Routes from Left to Right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Love Machine 6b+/22 6 Bolts FA. P McCann. 1998.
2. Stealin' 6b+/22 9 Bolts FA. G Hart. 1993.
3. Digital Bitch 7b/26 6 Bolts FA. P Becker. 1993.
4. Demons and Wizards 7b+/28 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1994.
5. Easy Living 7b/26 5 Bolts FA. D Pothier. 1993.
6. November Afternoon 6c/23 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993. Top jug broken off Jan 2013
7. July Morning 6b+/22 5 Bolts FA. G Holwill. 1993.
8. Firefly 6a/19 6 Bolts FA. P McCann. 1998.

Waterworld

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.

  • Waterworld History

Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable. In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

Waterworld Topo

  • WaterworldRoute List

Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Monkey See Monkey Do 19/6a/6a+ 8 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.
2. Arendsig 18/6a 8 Bolts ***** BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
3. Walk On By 23/6c+ 8 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.
4. Some Would Say 26/7b 7 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.
5. Simply Irresistable 27/7b+ 5 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007. (Branches left)
5.b The Singularity 29/7c+ 5 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010 (veers right)
6. Firestarter! 29/7c+ 9 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
7. My Route Down By The River 31/8a+ 10 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
8. Chongalolo Project BB: Matt Bush.
9. Twist And Crawl 28/7c 12 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.
10. The Mission 24/7a 5 Bolts BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996. This is the original route at Waterworld.
11. Sidewinder 24/7a 6 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.
12. Creepy Crawly 20/6a+ 6 Bolts BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.


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