Bad Kloof
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How to get there
Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office. Walk into Bad Kloof as you would if you were walking towards the Avalon Springs. Follow the path until it crosses the river. The crag is at the river crossing on the south side of the kloof.
Fees, Permits, Etc
Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.
Bad Kloof Climbing Map
Crags in Bad Kloof
Berlin Wall
Berlin Wall Routes - This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap.
- Minefield 6b+/22
- Vays und Meenz 7a/24
- Streef Bogananoff 7a/24
- Hot Toddy Bension 7c/28
- Brandenburg Gate 6b/21
- Ben Behaving Madly 7b+/27
Jurrasic Park
Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade
- Against the Grain 7c/28
- Jabulani 7c/28
- Big Bag Voodoo 5/17
Masawattee 35/8c+ The long line with the slab behind it - [Mazawattee (35/8c+) goes down!] Bolted by Sean Maasch. FA: Adam Ondra 27 July 2009
The Laundry
- The Laundry Route List
Bad Kloof Scramble up slope just before Jurassic Park. Routes from LEFT to right.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION | |
| 1. | Super Blue | 24/7a | 5 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 1998. | |||
| 2. | Stay Soft | 26/7b | 5 Bolts | FA. S Downing. 1998. | |||
| 3. | <open project> | ||||||
| 4. | <open project> |
Lion Said
- Lion Said Route List
Bad Kloof From Left to Right. As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | Short Cut | 21/6b+ | 3 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
| 2. | Short, Sharp, Shock! | 23/6c+ | 3 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
| 3. | Come Short | 25/7a+ | 3 Bolts | BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002. | ||
| 4. | Hello Aloe | 15/ 5b | 13 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | ||
| 5. | Devil Speak | 21/6b+ | 9 Bolts | FA. K Schumann. 1998. |
Peanut Gallery
- Peanut Gallery Route List
Bad Kloof Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | Good Day for Basketball | 22/6c | 4 Bolts | FA. R Holwill. 1997. | ||
| 2. | Finding Ningo | 27/7b+ | 5 Bolts | FA. C Martinengo. 2004. | ||
| 3. | <unknown> | 31/8a+ | FA. <unknown> |
Pipeline
- Pipeline Route List
Bad Kloof There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | <Open Project> | |||||
| 2. | <Open Project> | |||||
| 3. | <Open Project> | |||||
| 4. | <Open Project> |
Playground
- Playground Route List
Bad Kloof Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | Jungle Gym Junkie | 5c/18 | 4 Bolts | FA. M Gowans. 1993. | ||
| 2. | Jungle Jim | 6a/19 | 4 Bolts | FA. C Curson. 1995. | ||
| 3. | See Saw | 4/15 | 3 Bolts | FA. C Curson. 1995. | ||
| 4. | The Jester | 6c+/24 | 3 Bolts | FA. R Suter. 1992. | ||
| 5. | Party-on Wayne | 7a/25 | 3 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1993. | ||
| 6. | Jus Klup Ut | 7b+/27 | 3 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1993. | ||
| 7. | Powerplay | 7a+/25 | 4 Bolts | FA. E February. 1995. | ||
| 8. | Fun in the Sun | 6b+/22 | 3 Bolts | FA. M Gowans. 1994. |
The Rage
- The Rage Route List
Bad Kloof Steep blank face on right when entering kloof from Avalon Springs.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | Bullet in the Head | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1995. | This route is manufactured. |
Sloth
South Park
- South Park Route List
Bad Kloof The crag is on the right hand side between Supertubes and The Palace. Routes LEFT to Right.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | Cartman Gets an Anal Probe | 7a/25 | 7 Bolts | FA. C Bruton. 1999. | ||
| 2. | Who Killed Kenny? | 7b+/27 | 5 Bolts | FA. S Bradshaw jnr. 2000. |
Supertubes
Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.
Supertubes Routes from Left to Right
| ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # OF BOLTS (INCL. ANCHORS) | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| Wax my Gun and have some Fun | 21 | 6 Bolts | T Hyde 1999 | route is on the far left of the crag |
| The Dumper | 15 | 7 Bolts | Stuart Brown 2004 | |
| Beach Break | 19 | 7 Bolts | Stuart Brown 2004 | |
| Whoa She Poopie | 29 | 10 Bolts | BB Sean Maasch / OB Justin Hawkins 1998 | Originally graded 30/8a |
| Point Break | 30 | 10 Bolts | Jono Fisher 1991 | Originally graded 29 |
| Rad and Bad | 29 | 10 Bolts | Mike Roberts 1991 | |
| Surf and Turf | 23 | 7 Bolts | <add FA> | |
| Leap Tide | 27 | 9 Bolts | Stuart Brown 2004 | Shares same chains as Thruster |
| Thruster | 26 | 7 Bolts | Sean Maasch 1992 | one of the most climbed routes in Montagu |
| Triple Stinger | 26 | 7 Bolts | Sean Maasch 1991 | |
| J-Bay | 28 | 9 Bolts | D Wiemar 1997 | |
| <unknown> | 31 | 5 Bolts | Clinton Martinengo | |
| Hypoxia | 29 | 7 Bolts | G Hoerhager 1996 | the roof route over the bench |
| First Wave | 24/25 | 5 Bolts | Jeremy Ward 1998 | |
| <unknown> | <add details> |
The Hotel
- The Hotel Route List
Bad Kloof Inside Avalon Springs Resort. All bolts kindly sponsored by the Avalon Springs Hotel.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | The Key | 27/7b+ | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997. | ||
| 2. | The bellboys, The bellboys | 26/7b | 6 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997 | ||
| 3. | U Like Jamin? | 23/6c+ | 6 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | Plastic holds have been bolted on subsequently. | |
| 4. | Rim Service | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1997. |
The Swamp
- The Swamp Route List
Bad Kloof Routes from Left to Right. Note: Jan 2013, base under water, pack water-wings.
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | Gruff | 7b/26 | 4 Bolts | FA. S Bradshaw. 1995. | ||
| 2. | Route Do Me | 7b+/27 | 4 Bolts | FA. S Maasch. 1994. | ||
| 3. | Gluttony | 7c+/29 | 4 Bolts | FA. J Samson. 1996. | ||
| 4. | Where Eagles Dare | 5c/16 | 7 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | On the slab. | |
| 5. | There Lurks the Boogie-Man | 5a/13 | 8 Bolts | FA. Stuart Brown. 2002. | On the slab. | |
| 6. | Disprin | 25/7a+ | 10 Bolts | FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1996. | This route is above the last 2 routes. |
The Palace
- The Palace Route List
Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | Bad Cop, No Donut | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | FA. J Samson. 2004. | Starts on extreme left halfway up the slabs | |
| 2. | Elegantly Wasted | 26/7b | 10 Bolts | FA. J Temple-Forbes. 1999. | ||
| 3. | S102 | 25/7a+ | 10 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 2004. | ||
| 4. | Lexi's Route | 25/7a+ | 7 Bolts | <unknown> | ||
| 5. | Cyberpunk | 25/7a+ | 9 Bolts | ***** | FA. R Nattrass. 1996. | |
| 6. | MoonaBoos | 27/7b+ | 10 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 1999. | ||
| 7. | Shagadelic | 23/6c+ | 8 Bolts | FA. J Orton. 2000 | ||
| 8. | Burning Chrome | 28/7c | 14 Bolts | FA. R Nattrass. 1995. | ||
| 9. | Judge Dredd | 29/7c+ | 13 Bolts | FA. R Nattrass. 1996. | ||
| 10. | Strange Days | 31/8a+ | 5 Bolts | FA. E Wiercx. 1997. | ||
| 11. | About Time | 27/7b+ | 12 Bolts | FA. C Martinengo. 2004. | ||
| 12. | The Activist | 30/8a | 11 Bolts | FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995. | ||
| 13. | The Neuromancer | 23/6c+ | 8 Bolts | FA. Roger Nattrass. 1995. | ||
| 14. | Mad Max | 21/6b+ | 14 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | 13[7Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches. | |
| 15. | Psycho Ranger | 20/6b | 13 Bolts | FA. S Brown. 2002. | 15[6Bolts] ends at mid chains. Note: Take a long sling to extend the chains between pitches. |
Uriah Heep
- Uriah Heep Route List
Bad Kloof Routes from Left to Right
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | Love Machine | 6b+/22 | 6 Bolts | FA. P McCann. 1998. | ||
| 2. | Stealin' | 6b+/22 | 9 Bolts | FA. G Hart. 1993. | ||
| 3. | Digital Bitch | 7b/26 | 6 Bolts | FA. P Becker. 1993. | ||
| 4. | Demons and Wizards | 7b+/28 | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1994. | ||
| 5. | Easy Living | 7b/26 | 5 Bolts | FA. D Pothier. 1993. | ||
| 6. | November Afternoon | 6c/23 | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1993. | Top jug broken off Jan 2013 | |
| 7. | July Morning | 6b+/22 | 5 Bolts | FA. G Holwill. 1993. | ||
| 8. | Firefly | 6a/19 | 6 Bolts | FA. P McCann. 1998. |
Waterworld
Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.
- Waterworld History
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment. In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable. In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)
- WaterworldRoute List
Bad Kloof Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)
| # | ROUTE NAME / AREA | GRADE | # BOLTS | RATING | BOLTING/OPENED INFO | DESCRIPTION |
| 1. | Monkey See Monkey Do | 19/6a/6a+ | 8 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009. | ||
| 2. | Arendsig | 18/6a | 8 Bolts | ***** | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007. | |
| 3. | Walk On By | 23/6c+ | 8 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007. | ||
| 4. | Some Would Say | 26/7b | 7 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013. | ||
| 5. | Simply Irresistable | 27/7b+ | 5 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007. | (Branches left) | |
| 5.b | The Singularity | 29/7c+ | 5 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010 | (veers right) | |
| 6. | Firestarter! | 29/7c+ | 9 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
| 7. | My Route Down By The River | 31/8a+ | 10 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
| 8. | Chongalolo | Project | BB: Matt Bush. | |||
| 9. | Twist And Crawl | 28/7c | 12 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009. | ||
| 10. | The Mission | 24/7a | 5 Bolts | BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996. | This is the original route at Waterworld. | |
| 11. | Sidewinder | 24/7a | 6 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. | ||
| 12. | Creepy Crawly | 20/6a+ | 6 Bolts | BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009. |
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