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From Wellington one has to drive over the pass and some way down the other side towards Wolseley. The best routes are on the imposing crag that is on the south side of the valley. Park at the appropriate siding on the pass and descend to the river. A long walk up to the base of the crag leads one into a nice cave.
Bain's Steps 15, 85m Natural
This route heads up the prominent stepped white pillar to the left of the imposing crag.
Pitch 1: 20m 12. Excellent climbing on vertical rock to the platorm above.
Pitch 2: 20m 12. Directly up.
Pitch 3: 20m 15. Climb directly up on good rock.
Pitch 4: 25m 15. Climb the attractive white headwall.
Descent: From the top of the pillar scramble down the back to a platform. Rappel to the gorge below and head straight down it.
First Ascent: Alan Ross, David Davies & Hilton Davies, 22 February 1997.
Bain's Arete 18, 185m Natural
This route heads up the arete 30m to the right of the cave.
Pitch 1: 30m 18. Climb the wall that faces onto the ledge at cave level. Head slightly right and up to a stance.
Pitch 2: 25m 18. Up and right.
Pitch 3: 30m 18. Climb up to the roof and head out right into an airy situation. On the crest head up over the bulge above angling left. A really fine pitch in a spectacular position.
Pitch 4: 100m 10. Directly up to the summit.
Descent: From the top head left over the top of the mountain. Descend the east side to gain a descent gorge. Continue down and keep taking the options leftwards (facing down). Make one rappel. At the base of the cliffs turn left to regain the cave or head down to the river.
First Ascent: Hilton Davies, David Davies & Alan Ross, 23 February 1997.
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