Black Ice Area

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Tafelberg, South Wall, Blue Planet Sector.
Tafelberg, South Wall, Blue Planet Sector. Original image from the guide book Tafelberg & Spout by Tony Lourens (with permission).
Yellow = Spice Dice

Spice Dice (22) *****

Black Ice Area, Tafelberg

A direct line up the face just to the right of Pure Mania. A single, superb pitch up the whole face.

  • Pitch 1. 50 m (22) Start as for Pure Mania, but traverse right under the big hole until able to pull up and then through the roofs just right of Pure Mania's crux. Move 2m left then straight up to the top, taking a crack and featured slab after the ledge high up. Long slings and a large cam are useful for the start.

FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)

Diced Ice (22) *****

Black Ice Area, Tafelberg

Below the Black Ice route is a trapezoid (triangle with a flat top) shaped roof. Start on the left side of this.

  • Pitch 1. 50 m (22) Climb up 2m to the wide rail under the roof (a friend size 4 or bigger is useful, but not essential), move out leftwards around the corner and continue railing for about 2 meters (strenuous), before thin feet allow you to climb onto the narrow ledge. Alternatively, do a harder (a grade or two) move in the recess at the start of the narrow ledge. From the ledge, continue for about 15m at grade 19 up to a tiny triangular belay ledge just up and right from a small right-facing red corner.
  • Pitch 2. 25 m (19) Continue climbing straight up, doing a stretchy move for a good hold to get through the blank rock band, and continue upwards aiming for the rightward trending layback flake just next to the abseil point.

FA: Uwe Pitsch, Robert Zipplies, 1 January 2012.