Take the N1 North, turn of at the Zambezi drive toll plaza, currently R7,20. Turn right, (east) towards Cullinan. Turn left at the first robot after the highway on-ramp, which is the Moloto road. Take note of the speed limit as there are frequent speed traps. Continue for 24.9km, you'll clearly see the rock face and the entrance to Mutango lodge on your right hand side. Enter the roadside gate and drive a couple of hundred meters towards the second gate & guard which is clearly visible from the first gate.
A map is available on Mutango Lodge - note this is not exactly to scale, the Lodge is 25km from the left turn off Zambezi Dr.
GPS coords for the turnoff: 25°31'58.21"S 28°27'29.51"E
This area has originally been bolted by Jacques Cronje.
NB: Make sure to report to reception and sign the required documentation / pay the fees. Due to trespassing, illegal fires and graffiti you may find yourself in the line of fire should you fail to comply. The current fee is R30 pppd, which will mostly be used to further develop the area and maintain the existing routes. Feel free to make use of the pub afterwards. Groups bookings can be arranged with the owners.
Access rules and arrangements
The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved.
Any bolting activities must be arranged with the owners first
- Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever
- You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts to the owners
To ensure continued access please keep to the following:
- Visitors must sign the access book and any waivers as required at reception before climbing and pay R50 per person per day as of April 2012
- Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the designated parking areas
- Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths
- Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private
- NO FIRES are allowed
- Reduce disturbance to animals
- No overnight camping, accommodation can be arranged at the lodge.
- Carry out ALL waste. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out
- Take extreme caution when smoking. PACK OUT CIGARETTE ENDS
- Consider fellow climbers when relieving yourself and keep at least 50m away from paths and climbing routes. Burry toilet paper
- Respect other visitors
- Do not throw or roll rocks off cliffs
- Where applicable, assist and encourage others to adhere to the above
- No graffiti will be tolerated.
The owners agreed to allowing climbers from 7:00 AM onwards, if for any reason the guard at the gate is not available, please contact them directly AND DO NOT JUST GO CLIMB - see notes above. Driving back from the reception towards the entrance gate, the path towards the crag is to the right between the 5th & 6th telephone poles, opposite the track going down to the dam. It's a bit overgrown but quite safe to drive along. Park next to the dirt road running parallel to the crag.
Currently these paths leading to the crag are known:
- To the far left of the crag is a fairly obvious footpath leading up the hill. It's fairly close to the fence. At the top keep to the right and you'll end up at the first climb of the crag.
- Facing the crag, about 50m left of the path you used to drive up, also a fairly obvious foot path leading up. A bit overgrown but a lot easier than the aforementioned path. The path leads to +- "Joune / Myne" and not to the far right of the crag.
- At the end of the car path used to drive up to the crag an obvious footpath which leads to the right hand side of the crag ("Hansie Slim" etc.)
- Chat to the owners - there is an easy footpath from the main grounds leading to the top of the crag being cleared out.
Contact persons (manager):
- Stephan 082 577 2643
Route names and gradings below, listed in order from left to right as you face the crag. There is potential for more routes, but permission must be obtained from the owners. Take care as a couple of the 2nd bolts seem a bit high. All bolts & hangers seem fine, except for the ones on Angle Ion, which seems to be angle iron), but please inspect and report any suspect protection to the contact persons listed above. Apparently there are more existing routes, will be added in time. There is trad potential.
- UB = U-bolt
- C = Chains
|Unlucky last one||13||7D, C||.||.|
|Geranies Crag||19||9D, C||.||Cool arete/chimney|
|Angle Ion||24 apparently||8+D, ?||.||!! Danger: Looks like (rusted) angle iron hangers, need to check!!|
|Up swiftly||22||+- 11D, C||.||.|
|Fire Place||.||6D, UB||.||.|
|Chimney||.||.||.||Top out on Fire Place, and scramble up to the cave to find the start of "Chimney"|
|1st Ascent||20||13D, UB||.||I found the corner about the same grade as Jelly Beans Direct (18) or Babies Blood Gives me Gas(18), and the top section to be easier than High Speed Dirt(21), so I would guess this is a 20. Grade to be confirmed.|
|Cactus Jack||22||5D C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt FA Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt||Start with a long move at the bottom from Good Pocket (no using the tree), follow the bolts over the lip. Line sticks to the right. Line splitting off to the left not open as yet.|
|Sy ma geeet met chutney||.||+- 9D, ?||.||.|
|Lazyboy||.||+- 8D, ?||.||See the lazyboy to the right of the start, take your own beer|
|Albino Alligator||23||.+- 8D, C||Bolted By Chris Vandereydt & Greg De Gidts FA Greg De Gidts||Start using the first bolt of The more you break, traverse left keeping your legs below the ledge until after the 3rd bolt. Climb joins the project to the left after the 5th clip. Take Care when Cleaning as a lot of slack is created.|
|The more you break the harder it gets||20||+- 8D, ?||.||NO CHAINS, 2nd bolt rather high|
|Spiders Way||17||+- 7D, ?||.||.|
|Waterfall||16||7D, UB||.||Awkward move at the chains|
|Think Twice||16||+- 10D, UB||.||Polished|
|Cape Dream||20||12D, UB||.||Danger: Large loose rocks near 4th & 5th bolts|
|Empire Rock||22||11D, UB||.||.|
|??||.||.||.||Bolts higher up, no start, perhaps a project?|
|The Crain||.||?, UB||.||.|
|Stage Dive||19||7+D, UB||.||.|
|On Stage||.||+-7D, UB||.||.|
|Baboon Fly||17||6D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed|
|Take Off||22||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed|
|Chips||19||5D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed|
|Boardwalk||20||6D, UB||.||Variation to right 23? Grade to be confirmed.|
|African Element||18||10D, UB||.||Pull through bulge crux. Grade to be confirmed|
|MP3||16||10D, UB||.||Left U-bolt a bit deep, difficult to fit rope & carabiner. Recommend placing an additional bolt between 3rd & forth - climber will hit ledge missing the clip on 4th. Grade to be confirmed|
|The Matrix||16||11D, UB||.||.|
|3 To Tango||18||11D, UB||.||Grade to be confirmed|
|XXX||18 or 21||8D, UB||.||18 using pillar to the right at the start, variation 21 without. Grade to be confirmed.|
|Joune / myne||16||7D, UB||.||Gap between two pieces of rock, might be easy to miss. Grade to be confirmed|
|Out of river juice||14||Trad||FA Pierre, Piet & Naude, May 2009||Climbs up the right hand side of the obvious outcrop found on the path between Liewe Heksie and Joune/Myne. Start on ledge 1.5m off ground. Step right and use fist-sized crack to climb onto block above and right. Walk slightly right, pull onto block above and continue onto summit. Scramble down off the back and ab off tree above Joune/Myne.|
|Knersis||11||7D, Rings||.||Route at the back of freestanding boulder, left of Brian's project. BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius|
|Project: Brian Weaver||.||6D, Chains||.||Crimps and slaps up the column onto the blank slab above. Open project See post by Brian|
|Liewe Heksie||10||6D, UB||.||New 1st bolt placed. Last bolt before anchors has loose hanger, usable.|
|Sakkie||10||8D, Rings||.||BB Darryl Margetts & Emile Pretorius|
|Hansie Slim||14||8D, UB||.||.|
|Jakkals & Wolf||14||6D, UB||.||Crux at start, rest easy.|
|Mooman||13||6D, UB||.||Crux bottom 4m.|
|Dawie die kabouter||14||6D, UB||.||.|
|Mina Moo||13||6D, UB||.||All bolts ok (2011-02-07)|
Building in top left corner is the ablution block in the caravan park. Trail begins at a "White Spot" of paint on a rock under the trees. Follow the dots to the various areas.
Farside Traverse: 7A+. Start as for Swatting Mosquitos and head right avoiding the big ledge at the top. Top out as for Midway Traverse. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.
Midway Traverse: 6c+. Begin on square hold, move up and traverse right on slopey holds above the roof. Top out to the right on big ledges. FA: Brian Weaver 2011.
Unknown Dyno: 6C. Start to the left of the tree on crimps, just to upper ledge and top out. FA: PUT YOUR NAME HERE!!
Blindside Arete: 7C. Begin with left hand in small undercling on the edge of roof, right hand in the slot crimp. Pull up, move up and left. Top out on flat holds on top. FA: Adam Ludford 2011. Downgraded to 7C after some more experience.
Acrophobia: 7C. Begin hugging the feature. Work your way up through the overhang and top out. Avoid dabbing the boulder to the right until you down-climb after topping out. FA: Brian Weaver 2011. Downgraded to 7C after some more experience.