Difference between revisions of "Central East Face"

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There are a few routes on the main central east face of Mt Everest, up behind all the previously mentioned boulders. As with several other areas, there is still a lot of undeveloped potential in this part of the mountain.
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= Topo =
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[[File:Harrismith guide 28.jpg]]
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= Route List =
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{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
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|-
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|#
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|ROUTE NAME / AREA
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|GRADE
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|# BOLTS
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|RATING
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|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
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|DESCRIPTION
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|-
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|1.
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|Lakes of Fire
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|(25)
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|Trad
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|***
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|FA: Pete Janschek (Date ?)
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|This line climbs an obvious, overhanging jam-crack about 25m high to the left of 'The Entertainer'.
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|-
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|2.
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|The Entertainer
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|(15)
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|Trad
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|***
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|FA: Greg Wooding and Mike Steininger (26 March 1999)
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|Start about 100m left of Pocket City and about 30m left of 'Something To Do'.  Here you will find a huge, orange recess that faces slightly left.  At the back of the recess, there is a good crack that curves up to the left.
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1. 15 (20m) Push through one metre of thick bush to reach the rock at the base of the crack.  Follow the left curving crack at the back of the recess up to a good stance on a narrow ledge.  It is necessary to make a short deviation to the left about a third of the way up.  Gear is excellent.  The belay requires 2,5 to 3,5 cams.
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<br>2. 15 (25m) Move poetically out to the right, around a very exposed corner and then traverse to the right past a cubby-hole.  Immediately after the first cubby-hole but before the second cubby-hole, climb up the face above, tending slightly left initially and then straight up.  Belay at a large, flat boulder at the top of the face.  The tricky take-off move may also be done by stemming up a metre or so from the belay (cam) and then stepping very delicately across to the right.
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<br>3. 15 (15m) From the previous stance, scramble up across a steep vegetated ledge to the base of the next face and belay here.  Start next to a right-facing flake.  Climb up diagonally right to short vertical section which is just left of a small bush.  Climb through this vertical section and then tend diagonally left on gargoyles to the base of a large, orange overhang.  Belay from a horizontal crack (nuts and small cams) near the base of the overhang.
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<br>4. 15 (40m) Climb up and break through the small overlap on its left, directly above the belay.  Continue up the corner for a couple of moves and then go diagonally right on easy rock.  Walk / traverse to the right, across the base of a vegetated break/gully and then climb straight up a knobbly face (fiddly wires and slings on rhino horns !) to finish on the left of the block that protrudes from the top of the crag.
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<br><br>
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Descend by walking along the summit ridge to the right for about 50m until you get to a bushy gully that zig-zags down to the top of Pocket City.  From here, follow the good path back to the bottom of the crag.  This is an excellent route on clean rock and has an interesting crux on each pitch.
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|-
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|3.
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|Something To Do
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|(12)
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|Trad
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|***
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|FA: Gavin Peckham ; Ivan van Cleef and Gavin Raubenheimer (23 July 1999)
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|This route starts about 70m to the left of Pocket City at a huge right-facing corner / open-book that curves off to the right and ends as a large, orange roof higher up.  Start about 5m to the right the huge corner at the edge of the thick bush, which restricts access to the corner itself.
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12 (40m) Climb up the juggy face tending slightly to the right and heading for the right-hand end of the large, orange roof above.  Pass the overhang on its right then move back left above the roof to belay on a good ledge.
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<br>Pitch 2 - yet to be opened on lead: Climb up the arête directly above the belay - probably needs bolts.
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<br><br>Descent: From the top of pitch 1, scramble off along the ledge to the right.  This is easy, but exposed at one point and it may be wise to belay climbers across onto the wide grass ledge.  From here follow the good path over the top of Pocket City and back around to the bottom of the crag.  This is an easy but pleasant route.
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|}
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[[Category:Mount Everest]]
 
[[Category:Mount Everest]]

Latest revision as of 17:32, 9 February 2012

There are a few routes on the main central east face of Mt Everest, up behind all the previously mentioned boulders. As with several other areas, there is still a lot of undeveloped potential in this part of the mountain.

Topo

Harrismith guide 28.jpg

Route List

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Lakes of Fire (25) Trad *** FA: Pete Janschek (Date ?) This line climbs an obvious, overhanging jam-crack about 25m high to the left of 'The Entertainer'.
2. The Entertainer (15) Trad *** FA: Greg Wooding and Mike Steininger (26 March 1999) Start about 100m left of Pocket City and about 30m left of 'Something To Do'. Here you will find a huge, orange recess that faces slightly left. At the back of the recess, there is a good crack that curves up to the left.

1. 15 (20m) Push through one metre of thick bush to reach the rock at the base of the crack. Follow the left curving crack at the back of the recess up to a good stance on a narrow ledge. It is necessary to make a short deviation to the left about a third of the way up. Gear is excellent. The belay requires 2,5 to 3,5 cams.
2. 15 (25m) Move poetically out to the right, around a very exposed corner and then traverse to the right past a cubby-hole. Immediately after the first cubby-hole but before the second cubby-hole, climb up the face above, tending slightly left initially and then straight up. Belay at a large, flat boulder at the top of the face. The tricky take-off move may also be done by stemming up a metre or so from the belay (cam) and then stepping very delicately across to the right.
3. 15 (15m) From the previous stance, scramble up across a steep vegetated ledge to the base of the next face and belay here. Start next to a right-facing flake. Climb up diagonally right to short vertical section which is just left of a small bush. Climb through this vertical section and then tend diagonally left on gargoyles to the base of a large, orange overhang. Belay from a horizontal crack (nuts and small cams) near the base of the overhang.
4. 15 (40m) Climb up and break through the small overlap on its left, directly above the belay. Continue up the corner for a couple of moves and then go diagonally right on easy rock. Walk / traverse to the right, across the base of a vegetated break/gully and then climb straight up a knobbly face (fiddly wires and slings on rhino horns !) to finish on the left of the block that protrudes from the top of the crag.

Descend by walking along the summit ridge to the right for about 50m until you get to a bushy gully that zig-zags down to the top of Pocket City. From here, follow the good path back to the bottom of the crag. This is an excellent route on clean rock and has an interesting crux on each pitch.

3. Something To Do (12) Trad *** FA: Gavin Peckham ; Ivan van Cleef and Gavin Raubenheimer (23 July 1999) This route starts about 70m to the left of Pocket City at a huge right-facing corner / open-book that curves off to the right and ends as a large, orange roof higher up. Start about 5m to the right the huge corner at the edge of the thick bush, which restricts access to the corner itself.

12 (40m) Climb up the juggy face tending slightly to the right and heading for the right-hand end of the large, orange roof above. Pass the overhang on its right then move back left above the roof to belay on a good ledge.
Pitch 2 - yet to be opened on lead: Climb up the arête directly above the belay - probably needs bolts.

Descent: From the top of pitch 1, scramble off along the ledge to the right. This is easy, but exposed at one point and it may be wise to belay climbers across onto the wide grass ledge. From here follow the good path over the top of Pocket City and back around to the bottom of the crag. This is an easy but pleasant route.