Difference between revisions of "Chosspile"

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(The Wall of Aglarond)
(The Lord of the Rings)
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| <Colin Crabtree's Open Project>
|Bio Diesl
|BB. Colin Crabtree. 2002.
|BB. Colin Crabtree. 2002. FA. Andrew Pedley. 2013
|FA climbed up to 3rd bolt, climbed down and then sent.

Revision as of 13:49, 1 April 2013



Please adhere to under mentioned access arrangements religiously. The Chosspile was closed due to a spate of muggings and later re-opened following negotiations with the landowners and huge effort from the climbing community led by Neil Margetts and friends.

Some of the history:

Updated October 2012:

Mt Amanzi do not own the land, it is owned by Rissk Estates who agreed to continue to provide acccess to climbers IF the land is rented and the access is controlled. A fence was put up around the land and the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) - spear-headed by Neil Margetts - negotiated a solution whereby Mt Amanzi rent the property from Rissik and control access. There are are some benefits to them in that they do not now have a mass of partyers and crime accross the river from the resort and the residents of the resort can hike up the Chospile mountain. This highlights an important point; Mt Amanzi are not renting the property solely so we can climb, we are secondary. Even if there were 300 climbers a month they are making a loss. For this reason, we do not have too much leverage in climber access discussions, if we are more trouble than we are worth they can close it to us. This is one of the reasons they are insisting that everyone who enters is with an MCSA or University climbing club member as this is reassurance to them that all people entering are responsible and climb safely.

In addition, Mt Amazi agreed to this ony if we the climbers pay for the guard at the gate, an average of R500 per month. So who pays this? The MCSA, average of R500 per month. The MCSA also pay for the bolts on new climbs and any rebolting of old ones, R600 a time.

So, with this in mind, the is the access rules from 1 October 2012 until further notice, are as follows:

1. Every climber entering the property must report to the Mount Amanzi reception before climbing.

2. Entrance is R30 for MCSA members or members of a University climbing club. Cards must be shown and must have a photoo and sticker for year of membership.

3. A maximum of 2 guests are allowed with each cardholder. Entrance is R50 for the 1st and 2nd guests. Rather than grumble about this, join the MCSA or your University Club!

4. All climbers must sign the registry boook and indemnity, and if they are the card-holder, must write their club membership number.

5. Opening hours are:- Winter time – 1 May till 31 August – from 08H00 – 16H00. Summer time - 1 September till 30 April – from 08H00 – 17H00. This reflects the hours the guards are paid and their transport.

6. Officers at reception must ask for cards and check validity, it is in the interests of access that climbers remind the desk staff of this.

7. The guard at the gate must check the date and number of people indicated on the reciept, it is in the interests of access that climbers remind the guard of this.

Anyone found to be not complying with the above will be banned from the property and should the access be closed down, will not be very popular!

Sorry that ths is all so firm..but continued access depends on it.

The owners of the crag (Mr Bezuidenhout of Rissik Estates) is adamant that nobody must trespass onto the land from the dam wall side Legal action will be taken against anyone who does. Please adhere to this rule to avoid unnecessary trouble and considerably jeopardise future access and seriously piss off for the majority of the Gauteng climbing community.

Please stick to these rules to keep the access open and the crag safe.


Chosspile Route List

The Man Cave

First Cave after walking from parking.

Violent Streak 32/8b 7 Bolts BB. Andrew Pedley. FA. Andrew Pedley. 2012. Attacks the grey water streak you can see for miles. Scramble to the top of the chossy pillar then power up and pull on. On the FA the first 3 bolts were pre-clipped.

Harry Potter

This crag is right of the Real Man Cave. Routes run from LEFT to RIGHT.

Drako 24/7a 14 Bolts RBB. Rory Lowther. Pitch 1 is 21/6b+. Pitch 2 is 21/6b+. Use 2 ropes to abseil all the way or go from chains to chains. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.
Bolts from the Blue 15/5b Natural Gear FA. Stephen Malloryn OR Cara Wessel. <Unless you were simul-climbing or suffer from schitzophrenia pick one>. 40m Climb the face left of HARRY POTHEAD, starting 7m left of HP. Tricky poorly protected start. Fire up to the top past two trees. Last 15m also poorly protected.
Harry Pothead 19/6a+ 6 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther. Short route with easy start, follows large flaring crack up to end of small roof on the left with anchors just around lip.
Hogwarts Warted Hog 23 9 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther. Climb toward the left crack in the small roof.
Chamber of Secrets 25/7a+ 8 Bolts BB. Rory Lowther. FA. Steve Dunnet. Route starts 8m below small roof with decent climbing into a corner below roof then follows right crack out of corner and through crux roof to anchors on the face above.
Dobby 23,24/6c+,7a 8 Bolts BB. Debbie Mulder. FA. Rory Lowther. Just to the right of Chamber of secrets, climb overhanging rock on the right of small roof to anchors in small open book.
Dodgey Glue 19/6a+ To the right of DOBBY. A cruxy start next to a large root. Glue in anchors have been used.
Man Thang 24/7a To the right of DODGY GLUE. Glue in anchors used.
The Philosophers Stoned 20
Harry Goes Trading 13 Natural Gear Easy climbing for 20m, starts to right of the Philosophers Stone in the open book, up to a stance on a ledge with big tree to abseil off.
Moaning Murtle 23/6c+ 7 Bolts FA. Roland Magg. Starts 20m to right of The Philosophers Stoned, on a rock ledge. Line follows middle section of rock, with face climbing until over bulge of rock then into a small roof with the crux.
New Route -- SALAZAR suggested 18/6a BB. David Tapp. FA. Daniel Hannah. 2010. Start 5m right of Moaning Myrtle. The route takes an almost straight line to the bolts, with a crux at 1/3 height and a tricky move onto the top of an overhang near the top. Good climbing.
Spongify 22/6c 8 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther. Start 2m to the right of SALAZAR. Climb into early crux move and continue to easier, fun climbing on face above. Beware a ground fall from the low crux. The small tree at about 2m has been used as a hanging belay to make an early ground fall less likely.
Voltamor 19/6a+ 8 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther. Climb through 3 small roofs to ledge with chains above the last roof.
Diffindo 20/6b 7 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther. Short line with easy start, until crux move getting onto and through small roof.

The crag now moves uphill and steps back to a long face with a corner at its left end.

THE BLOODY BARON 15/5b 12 Bolts Start in the corner, just left of the chimney. Move left onto slab and then a few metres higher up, move right into a short right-facing corner. Climb this to ledge, then move left into left facing corner. Steep moves at the top take you to the chains. Some long draws are useful just as you go into to top corner to avoid rope drag. One can also climb the right arête at the bottom. There is a dire warning about rope drag written on the rock at the base of this climb. Please ignore it but do take care to ensure that the rope runs clear from bolt to bolt, doesn't get trapped under the tree or round any rocky bulges.
Quidditch 23/6c+ 7 Bolts FA. Neil Margetts. 2008. This route takes the hanging slab right of the previous route. Start as for THE BLOODY BARON but branch right to the base of the hanging slab and up this to the top. There is a bit of a run out from the top bolt to the chains, but it is safe.
The Balls of Hagrid 20/6b 9 Bolts BB. Neil Margetts. FA. David Tapp. 2010. Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above.
The Slab of Snape 16/5c 15 Bolts BB. David Tapp & Neil Margetts. FA. Neil Margetts. 2010. The first route on the main face. Climb a series of ledges then up to good holds under a small overhang. Move left under the overhang and up the slab (crux) to the chains. 60m ESSENTIAL.
Harry Catastrophe Left Hand 13/5a 7 Bolts FA. Dylan Morgan. 2004. Start about 6m left of Slitherin, 3m left of HCRH. Straight up to the chains with one bolt right of the line at half height. The crux is in the first 3m.
Harry Catastrophe Right Hand 15/5b 6 Bolts FA. Mike Grant. 2004. Start just left of Slitherin. Turn the overhang with one hard move before following the shallow recess to the ledge and face above. This route shares its upper section and anchors with HCLH.
Slitheren 14/5b 10 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther. Climbs the obvious corner to the left of centre on the face. Climb to the short layback crack and into an undercling, step out left to easy climbing up an open book corner. Fun climbing for 20m.
A variation of Slitherin 18
18/6a Heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. It's a little artificial but if you climb the arete try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10
Ravens Claw 17/5c 9 Bolts FA. Ronald Magg. Follow the obvious line of bolts to the right of the Slitherin variation, face climbing for 20m to chains. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10
Griffindore 17/5c 10 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther. This route is to the right of Ravens claw and heads up the middle of the face/slab with 3 crux moves otherwise some good climbing.
Huff 'n Puff 18/6a 9 Bolts FA. Rory Lowther. Cruxy, bouldery start and crimpy end, but easier section in the middle.
Cramcakes and Scumbags 20/6b 6 Bolts FA. Louis Smit OR Wiliam Graham. 2004. <Do you have an alias?>

The Lord of the Rings

This crag is past the Harry Potter section following the scree path all the way too the top large cave.

Routes from the LEFT of the crag towards the RIGHT. This crag is in the shade most of the day with some areas being in the sun late afternoon. This crag is mostly overhanging.

1. Pipeweed 22/6c 8 Bolts FA. Dewald Kloppers.
2. Frodo / Exit Planet Dust 18/6a 9 Bolts BB. Rob Brinkworth & Mark Olver. FA. Rob Brinkworth OR Sarah Houghton. <Please pick one, as I'm sure you both didn't clip the chains at the same time>
3. A Shortcut to Mushrooms 21/6b+ rebolted Feb 2013
4. Voices of Saruman 23/6c+
5. Gandalf 24/7a rebolted Feb 2013
6. Mourn not overmuch 25/7a+
7. Halfling 27/7b+
8. Gollum 25/7a+ rebolted Feb 2013
9. Gollum extension <add name>
10. Big Bully 29/7c+ BB. Wesley Black. FA. Dario Zanon. 2012. Ground extension.
11. Bully for Brontosaurus 28/7C 10 Bolts FA. Peter Lazarus. Starts in cave.
12. Tyrannosaurus Rex 27/7b+ Starts in cave.
13. <Richard Lords bolt line running through cave open project.> This will go after Shadowfax has been crushed. Needs new bolts.
14. Shadowfax 33/8b+ FA. Andrew Pedley. March 2013. Originally bolted by P. Martin. Rebolted by AP in 2009
15. The Chossfather 28/7c

FA. Andrew Pedley. 2012.
16. Don't Deck 23/6c+ There was a tree, but the muggers came and chopped it down.
17. Don't Let Go ( a.k.a mount doom on a stick ) 28/7c FA. Brian Weaver. 2012. Leftward extension of Don't Deck. Take long slings.
18. Don't Deck Extension 27/7b+ Rightward extension of Don't Deck ending on Fossil Fuel.
19. Shelob 24/7a BB. Wesley Black. FA. Wesley Black. 2011.
20. Anduril Flame of the West 30,31/8a,8a+ BB. Wesley Black. FA. Joey Kinder. 2011.
21. Fossil Fuel 30/8a BB. Peter Lazarus. FA. Ralph Brucher. Just before going for the big pinch there was a drilled pocket which was never used in any of the ascents and is now filled up to avoid cheating.
22. <Ralph's Open Project> BB. Ralph Brucher.
22. <Pieter Martin's Open Project> BB. Pieter Martin.
22. Bio Diesl BB. Colin Crabtree. 2002. FA. Andrew Pedley. 2013 FA climbed up to 3rd bolt, climbed down and then sent.
23. Grimslade 27/7b+ 6 Bolts
24. Unfinished Business 23/6c+ 7 Bolts
25. Hobbitry in Arms 20/6b 6 Bolts
26. Ramble On 18/6a

The Wall of Aglarond

This wall is past Harry Potter and The Lord of the Rings, through the gulley and past some scree slope.

Routes from the LEFT of the crag towards the RIGHT.

1. Seventeen 17/5c
2. The King of the Golden Hall 17/5c 8 Bolts FA. Andries Smit OR Derek Pienaar. 2003.
3. Mr Gamgee 20/6b 9 Bolts FA. Andries Smit OR Derek Pienaar. 2003.
4. Tarrawankie 19/6a+ 9 Bolts FA. Andries Smit OR Derek Pienaar. 2002.
5. Legolas 22/6c 14 Bolts FA. Andries Smit OR Derek Pienaar. 2002.
6. Lady of Lorien 22/6c 11 Bolts
7. Aragorn 21 14 Bolts
8. <unknow name> 22,23/6c,6c+ <Add FA>
9. Sauron 18/6a
10. Blue Flowers 15/5b 6 Bolts FA. Rob Brinkworth.