Chosspile - Revision history

Forket: /* The Lord of the Rings */

2013-04-30T10:48:41Z

The Lord of the Rings

Andrew p: /* Access */

2013-04-23T06:49:53Z

Access

Andrew p: /* The Lord of the Rings */

2013-04-23T06:45:30Z

The Lord of the Rings

Andrew p: /* The Lord of the Rings */

2013-04-23T06:45:02Z

The Lord of the Rings

Andrew p: /* The Lord of the Rings */

2013-04-23T06:43:32Z

The Lord of the Rings

Andrew p: /* The Lord of the Rings */

2013-04-23T06:34:32Z

The Lord of the Rings

Forket: /* The Lord of the Rings */

2013-04-01T11:49:32Z

The Lord of the Rings

Forket: /* The Wall of Aglarond */

2013-04-01T11:48:01Z

The Wall of Aglarond

Forket: /* Harry Potter */

2013-04-01T11:41:15Z

Harry Potter

Forket: /* Harry Potter */

2013-04-01T11:40:14Z

Harry Potter

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 == Directions ==
 == Access ==
-Please adhere to under mentioned access arrangements religiously. The Chosspile was closed due to a spate of muggings and later re-opened following negotiations with the landowners and huge effort from the climbing community led by Neil Margetts and friends.
+Please adhere to under mentioned access arrangements religiously. The Chosspile was closed due to a spate of muggings and later re-opened following negotiations with the landowners and huge effort from the climbing community led by Neil Margetts and friends. NOTE: It was not the MCSA who insisted on the card-holder rule, it was Mt Amananzi, so please dont call Andrew at 8.00 am when you arrive there without a cardholder.
 Some of the history:

@@ Line 363: / Line 363: @@
 |FA. Dewald Kloppers.
 |Starts with an easy scramble about 5-10m left of SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end.
 |2.
 |Frodo / Exit Planet Dust

@@ Line 360: / Line 360: @@
 |22/6c
 |8 Bolts
+|**
 |FA. Dewald Kloppers.
+|Starts with an easy scramble about 5-10m left of SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end.
-|-
 |2.
 |Frodo / Exit Planet Dust
 |18/6a
 |9 Bolts
+|**
 |BB. Rob Brinkworth & Mark Olver. FA. Rob Brinkworth OR Sarah Houghton. <Please pick one, as I'm sure you both didn't clip the chains at the same time>
+|Following the crackline through a small mantleshelf and a cunning ending. First Ascent: Rob Brinkworth
 |-
 |3.

@@ Line 376: / Line 376: @@
 |21/6b+
+|
+|***
-|rebolted Feb 2013
+|Rebolted March 2013 with MCSA Mag and JHB bolts.
+|The leftmost route on a yellow, lichen covered face which gets sun in the afternoon. An excellent route and brilliant warm-up.
 |-
 |4.
@@ Line 384: / Line 384: @@
 |23/6c+
+|
+|
+|Starts just around the corner and to the right of A SHORTCUT TO MUSHROOMS, try stay out of the corner higher up.
-−
 |-
 |5.
@@ Line 392: / Line 392: @@
 |24/7a
+|
+|**
-|rebolted Feb 2013 with MCSA Mag and JHB bolts..
+|rebolted Feb 2013 with MCSA Mag and JHB bolts.
 |A nice route about 2m right of VOICES OF SARUMAN passing the little roof then tends slightly right. Used to be 26, but is probably 23!
 |-
@@ Line 400: / Line 400: @@
 |25/7a+
+|
+|
+|About 2m right of GANDALF is an open corner and crack system, finishes on same anchors as GANDALF. Not popular so might be a bit dirty.
-−
 |-
 |7.
@@ Line 408: / Line 408: @@
 |26/7b
+|
+|**
 |Bolted by Andrew Pedley
 |Use the first three bolts of MOURN NOT OVERMUCH, follow the bolts slightly right up a dark pillar with some hard moves moving over a bulge and left. With the right beta its pretty easy. Finish on the chains of GOLLUM. First Ascent: Jun 2004 Andrew Pedley
@@ Line 449: / Line 449: @@
 |27/7b+
+|
+|**
-|F
+|Bolted and FA: Willem le Roux 2006
-|Same first bolt as Bully, then move right to jugs then hard up the face rightwards to chains. Brilliant steep rock. First Ascent: Willem le Roux 2006
+|Same first bolt as Bully, then move right to jugs then hard up the face rightwards to chains. Brilliant steep rock.
 |-
 |13.
@@ Line 481: / Line 481: @@
 |23/6c+
+|
+|**
+|
 |Looks ugly but climbs really well. This route starts about 3-5m left of FOSSIL FUEL, just left of the tree stump. It ends shortly after gaining the big right facing flake/corner. Retro-Bolted by Rob Brinkworth & Mark Oliver.
@@ Line 505: / Line 505: @@
 |24/7a
+|
+|*
 |BB. Wesley Black. FA. Wesley Black. 2011.
 |Starts just right of the tree stump, a sustained route that climbs straight up to end on DONT DECK chains. First Ascent: Wesley Black. Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section
@@ Line 511: / Line 511: @@
 |20.
 |Anduril Flame of the West
-|30,31/8a,8a+
+|30/8a
-−
+|
 |BB. Wesley Black. FA. Joey Kinder. 2011.
 |Starts a couple metres right of the cut tree stump. Looks a bit close to Fossil and aint that pretty…but actually really cool and well worth it. Love those sloping sidepulls. After the crux, another hard move to break the little roof then move right and merge into Fossil Fuel to the chains. First Ascent: Joey Kinder, 2011; BB: Wesley Black. Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section
@@ Line 521: / Line 521: @@
 |30/8a
+|
+|****
 |BB. Peter Lazarus. FA. Ralph Brucher.
-|The crags classic, a good first 8a. With all the beta it’s now easy at the grade! Starts off the sloping ramp a few metres right of the cut tree stump. Some thin moves tending leftward to a pinch, then pumpy climbing leads to some final thuggery through the capping roof. First Ascent: 2000 Ralph Brucher (BB Peter Lazarus). Rebolted in 2009.
+|The crags classic hard(ish) line, a good first 8a. With all the beta it’s now easy at the grade! Starts off the sloping ramp a few metres right of the cut tree stump. Some thin moves tending leftward to a pinch, then pumpy climbing leads to some final thuggery through the capping roof. First Ascent: 2000 Ralph Brucher (BB Peter Lazarus). Rebolted in 2009.
 |-
 |22.
@@ Line 543: / Line 543: @@
 |22.
 |Bio Diesl
+|
+|**
+|BB. Colin Crabtree. 2002. Bolts replaced by Dewald Kloppers in 2012. FA. Andrew Pedley. 2013
-|BB. Colin Crabtree. 2002. FA. Andrew Pedley. 2013
+|The first line with chalk after all the projects, immediately left of Grimslade. Easy to the 3rd clip then a stiff pull then easy to chains. Low in grade, could be 29. Place long draw on 3rd bolt so can clip from jug rail.
-|FA climbed up to 3rd bolt, climbed down and then sent.
 |-
 |23.
 |Grimslade
 |27/7b+
-|6 Bolts
+|7 Bolts
+|**
+|Rebolted March 2013 with MCSA Mag and JHB bolts
+|The last well chalked climb on the right of the crag. This route was once called SLANTED & ENCHANTED, some good power moves on small grips moving left and over the lip. Take care lowering on this route there are some rough edges for the rope. Was 26 and is still 26.
 |-
 |24.
@@ Line 569: / Line 569: @@
 |20/6b
 |6 Bolts
+|
+|A short line with some long moves.
-−
 |-
 |26.

@@ Line 393: / Line 393: @@
+|
+|
-|rebolted Feb 2013
+|rebolted Feb 2013 with MCSA Mag and JHB bolts..
+|A nice route about 2m right of VOICES OF SARUMAN passing the little roof then tends slightly right. Used to be 26, but is probably 23!
 |-
 |6.
@@ Line 406: / Line 406: @@
 |7.
 |Halfling
-|27/7b+
+|26/7b
-−
-−
+|
+|
 |-
 |8.
@@ Line 416: / Line 416: @@
 |25/7a+
+|
+|***
-|rebolted Feb 2013
+|rebolted Feb 2013 with MCSA Mag and JHB bolts.
+|Climbs up the face to the large hole 5 metres up. From here some tricky moves to a balancy shake before the sting in tail. Was 24 but consensus is now easy 25.  A great climb and a good warm-up for harder things.
 |-
 |9.
@@ Line 431: / Line 431: @@
 |10.
 |Big Bully
-|29/7c+
+|29 (7c+)
+|
+|***
-|BB. Wesley Black. FA. Dario Zanon. 2012.
+|BB. Wesley Black and Andrew P. FA. Dario Zanon. 2012.
-|Ground extension.
+|The line just to the left of the big dark cave and bush. Instead doing the daft cave start, start from the ground, some confusing face climbing to the big hole on Gollum. From this reach out and clip high then bust the bulge on the right, the pull onto the obvious shield side-pull and power-up for a bouldery crux then a stamina finish. BB: Wesley Black and Andrew Pedley. FA: Andrew Pedley. Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section
 |-
 |11.
 |Bully for Brontosaurus
-|28/7C
+|28/7c
 |10 Bolts
+|***
 |FA. Peter Lazarus.
-|Starts in cave.
+|Scramble up to the big cave in the middle of the crag. Move left to where you will see the first bolt and clip with long sling. Move out and left onto the shield as above. First Ascent: Peter Lazarus
 |-
 |12.
-|Tyrannosaurus Rex
+|Tyrannosaurus Pex
 |27/7b+
+|
+|
+|F
-|Starts in cave.
+|Same first bolt as Bully, then move right to jugs then hard up the face rightwards to chains. Brilliant steep rock. First Ascent: Willem le Roux 2006
 |-
 |13.
@@ Line 465: / Line 465: @@
 |33/8b+
+|
+|***
 |FA. Andrew Pedley. March 2013.
-|Originally bolted by P. Martin. Rebolted by AP in 2009
+|Hardest route in Maglaliesberg, takes on the full steepness of the crag. Start on the small whitish face with first bolt preclipped, to a shake before the roof. Calm the mind then blast out through to a pinch and a semi shake then into a low percentage crux on some bad bad holds. Scream at the finger lock and dont screw up the finish. Solid at the grade. Originally bolted by P. Martin. Rebolted by AP in 2009 and new start added.
 |-
 |15.
@@ Line 473: / Line 473: @@
 |28/7c
+|
+|**
+|Bolted and FA by Andrew Pedley, March 2013 with MCSA Mag and JHB bolts.
+|Crazy steep climbing up the black groove. A knee bar rest is follwoed by a distinct crux. Possibly low in grade.
-|FA. Andrew Pedley. 2012.
-−
 |-
 |16.
@@ Line 485: / Line 483: @@
+|
+|
-|There was a tree, but the muggers came and chopped it down.
+|Looks ugly but climbs really well. This route starts about 3-5m left of FOSSIL FUEL, just left of the tree stump. It ends shortly after gaining the big right facing flake/corner. Retro-Bolted by Rob Brinkworth & Mark Oliver.
 |-
 |17.
@@ Line 493: / Line 491: @@
+|
 |FA. Brian Weaver. 2012.
-|Leftward extension of Don't Deck. Take long slings.
+|Climb to the chains of Don't Deck and rail out left. Head through the three roofs and top out. Make sure you don't let go! At least 4 60cm slings are required to reduce rope drag. First Ascent: Brian Weaver (2011)
 |-
 |18.
@@ Line 499: / Line 497: @@
 |27/7b+
+|
+|***
+|Rebolted March 2013 with MCSA Mag and JHB bolts.
-|Rightward extension of Don't Deck ending on Fossil Fuel.
+|A great pump! Link-up between DONT DECK and FOSSIL FUEL. Follow DON'T DECK but avoid the right-facing corner, instead move up on crimps then traverse right into the 2/3 height shake on Fossil. Shake then pile through the Fossil finishing roof, or fall off pumped. First Ascent: Harry Crews (June 2009)
 |-
 |19.
@@ Line 509: / Line 507: @@
+|
 |BB. Wesley Black. FA. Wesley Black. 2011.
+|Starts just right of the tree stump, a sustained route that climbs straight up to end on DONT DECK chains. First Ascent: Wesley Black. Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section
 |-
 |20.
@@ Line 517: / Line 515: @@
+|
 |BB. Wesley Black. FA. Joey Kinder. 2011.
+|Starts a couple metres right of the cut tree stump. Looks a bit close to Fossil and aint that pretty…but actually really cool and well worth it. Love those sloping sidepulls. After the crux, another hard move to break the little roof then move right and merge into Fossil Fuel to the chains. First Ascent: Joey Kinder, 2011; BB: Wesley Black. Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section
 |-
 |21.
@@ Line 525: / Line 523: @@
+|
 |BB. Peter Lazarus. FA. Ralph Brucher.
-|Just before going for the big pinch there was a drilled pocket which was never used in any of the ascents and is now filled up to avoid cheating.
+|The crags classic, a good first 8a. With all the beta it’s now easy at the grade! Starts off the sloping ramp a few metres right of the cut tree stump. Some thin moves tending leftward to a pinch, then pumpy climbing leads to some final thuggery through the capping roof. First Ascent: 2000 Ralph Brucher (BB Peter Lazarus). Rebolted in 2009.
 |-
 |22.

@@ Line 619: / Line 619: @@
 |20/6b
 |9 Bolts
+|
 |FA. Andries Smit '''OR''' Derek Pienaar. 2003.
 |-
 |4.

@@ Line 300: / Line 300: @@
 |Climbs the obvious corner to the left of centre on the face. Climb to the short layback crack and into an undercling, step out left to easy climbing up an open book corner. Fun climbing for 20m.
 |-
 |A variation of Slitherin  18'''<br>
 |18/6a
+|
+|

@@ Line 245: / Line 245: @@
 |-
+|
+|
+|
+|
+|
+|FA. Neil Margetts. 2008.
+|This route takes the hanging slab right of the previous route. Start as for THE BLOODY BARON but branch right to the base of the hanging slab and up this to the top. There is a bit of a run out from the top bolt to the chains, but it is safe.
 |-
+|
+|
+|BB. Neil Margetts. FA. David Tapp. 2010.
+|Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above.
-−
-−
-−
 |-
+|
+|
+|BB. David Tapp & Neil Margetts. FA. Neil Margetts. 2010.
+|The first route on the main face. Climb a series of ledges then up to good holds under a small overhang. Move left under the overhang and up the slab (crux) to the chains. 60m ESSENTIAL.
-−
-−
-−
 |-
+|
@@ Line 274: / Line 282: @@
+|
 |FA. Dylan Morgan. 2004.
+|Start about 6m left of Slitherin, 3m left of HCRH. Straight up to the chains with one bolt right of the line at half height. The crux is in the first 3m.
 |-
+|
@@ Line 282: / Line 290: @@
+|
 |FA. Mike Grant. 2004.
+|Start just left of Slitherin. Turn the overhang with one hard move before following the shallow recess to the ledge and face above. This route shares its upper section and anchors with HCLH.
 |-
+|
@@ Line 290: / Line 298: @@
+|
 |FA. Rory Lowther.
+|
 |-
+|
@@ Line 298: / Line 314: @@
+|
 |FA. Ronald Magg.
+|Follow the obvious line of bolts to the right of the Slitherin variation, face climbing for 20m to chains. Both anchors are now 100% as of 16.1.10
 |-
+|
@@ Line 306: / Line 322: @@
+|
 |FA. Rory Lowther.
+|This route is to the right of Ravens claw and heads up the middle of the face/slab with 3 crux moves otherwise some good climbing.
 |-
+|
@@ Line 314: / Line 330: @@
+|
 |FA. Rory Lowther.
+|Cruxy, bouldery start and crimpy end, but easier section in the middle.
 |-
+|