Cogmans Buttress

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Cogmans Buttress

Getting There

Drive out of Montagu, go around the first bend about 250 meters on your right there is a wire gate. Park here (do not obstruct the entrance). The path starts across the road and is marked with a cairn.
Follow the path up for +/-30 meters to another path and turn right. Follow the path but DO NOT turn up left where the 'poles and wire' are obstructing the path - carry on walking across. The path follows up left later on. There area cairns marking the path.

Eagles Folly area: Drive past the Cogmans Buttress parking spot until you are below the Eagles Folly Buttress (+/- another 600 meters on). Park and find your way into the river bed. Rock hop your way up and when the river bed starts getting steep, move out right and zigzag your way up on the right. At the top (you can see into Keur Kloof from here) move across left to the bottom of the ridge.

Cogmans buttress paths.jpg

Another Day In Paradise == To the left of the Rave.

  • P1. 4a/10 5 Bolts 23mm
  • P2. 6b+/22 or 19 A0 13 Bolts 25m
  • P3. 5c/18 7 Bolts 20m
  • P4. 5b/17 9 Bolts 30m
  • P5. 3c/12 5 Bolts 20m
  • P6. 5c/18 11 Bolts 25m
  • P7. 5b/17 9 Bolts 20m

Bolts sponsored by Axel Wegmann, Swiss visitor and friend. Ab down route. 60m rope !!! Beware of loose flake above bolt 6 on last pitch !!! The Raves rap line.

Magical Mystery Tour ***

  • P1. 4a/10 4Bolts 15m shares first 3 bolts with paradise.
  • P2. 5c/18 9 Bolts 20m
  • P3. 5b/17 9 Bolts 30m
  • P4. 5c/18 11 Bolts 30m

Ab down route. 60m rope !!! Link up to second stance on Paradise after 4th bolt on pitch 3. *** Bolts sponsored by De Bos Guest Farm

The Rave

  • (6 Pitches - highest grade 6c/22)

TOCANDO EL VACIO 50m right of "The Rave"

  • P1. 24/6c+ 35m
  • P2. 27/7b+ 35m
  • P3. 22/6b+ 35m
  • P4. 27/7b+ 30m
  • Decent: 3xAbseils. 30m; 35m; 60m!!!

Bolted from ground up by Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Antonio Bayoma - 05.08.03

LOW BATTERY Right of "Tocando el Vacio"

  • P1. 16/5b
  • P2. 18/6a
  • P3. 23/6c
  • P4. 23/6c
  • Decent: 2xAbseils. P4-P1 50m; P1- ground

Bolted from ground up, you might need a set of nuts on first pitch.By Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Catherine Mader,Antonio Bayoma - 7/8.07. 03

Burnt by the Sun

  • P1: 17 28m (10B,C) **
  • P2: 19 26m (10B,C)
  • P3: 21/22 28m (9B,C)
  • P4: 22/23 30m (14B,C)

M. Roberts & P. McCann. 2003.

Click here for the Cogmans Buttress topo on