De Pakhuys

De Pakhuys
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Latitude	-32.120292
Longitude	19.059516
Climbing Type	Bouldering, Sport, Trad
Rock Type	Sandstone
Season	Winter is best, all year round
Province	Western Cape
Area	Rocklands

Map

The bouldering and sport climbing are on Thys Kruger's farm which is 26km from Clanwilliam, just over the Pakhuis Pass.

Access Issues

This land is privately-owned. The area will be closed if the following rules are disobeyed:

• Do not enter without paying the required entry fees.
• Do not litter (e.g. cigarette butts, finger tape).
• Do not damage or remove vegetation.
• Do not wander off existing paths.
• Do not feed wild animals.
• Do not bolt without the landowner's permission.
• Bury any toilet paper etc. in a deep hole (>10cm).

Accommodation

De Pakhuys (phone 027 482 1468) offers camping and cottages. It is 26km from Clanwilliam, just over the Pakhuis Pass (second turnoff to the right after the pass). Camping costs R50 per person per night (Sept 2012). The camp site has bathrooms and showers, as well as a communal kitchen (fridge, kettle, stove) and communal braai area with a bar.

Sport / Trad Routes

The sport routes are on large boulders at the bouldering area called Fields of Joy. From the campsite, drive a few hundred meters back towards the farm house, then take a left turn at the gate and drive for a few hundred metres more. Park and walk up the steepish hillside to the left, following the stone cairns to the boulders. The walk-in takes about 10 minutes.

Ask permission of the landowners Thys and Mark before bolting any new line.

---

Below: left to right:

• Facebook [3 bolts, chains] 25, Guy Holwill 2007
  Climbs the crack on the free-standing boulder. The boulder has a tap-like feature on the opposite side (visible from down the hill at the parking area) and is about 5 minutes walk from the 20 and the 19.

• Unknown 20, Guy Holwill, August 2007
  Up the face on the boulder left of the 19 arete route.

• Unknown 19, Guy Holwill, August 2007
  Up the arete on the boulder right of the 20.

• Crack Dealer 18, Kyle Rycroft, June 2008
  

• KGB 20, [8 bolts, chains] Graham Shillington, August 2007
  Up the obvious crack feature on the main face to the right of and on the same boulder as the 19 arete and Crack Dealer route.

• Myspace 27, [8 bolts, chains] Jeremy Samson, August 2007

Bouldering

The topos and original info have been provided by Michael Janata.

The Roadkill Café

A field of big boulders just above the campground. Short walk in, sheltered from the wind and lots of sun makes it a great winter destination.

Roughness factor:

• x huuuaaa, thats rough
• xx average roughness
• xxx nice and smooth rock for tired fingers

A1 5B 

BS in hole, move slightly left to good holds, long move to top rail, TOxxx Michael Janata

A2 CHUNK OF SKUNK 5B 

BS on arete, climb up and TO Evan Wiercx

A3 YETI SPAGETTI 6C 

BS under roof, move over lip, then in seam leftwards to xxx Evan Wiercx

A4 4 

BS climb face, TO Michael Janata

A5 COLLIE COLD CUTS 

Evan Wiercx

A6 5C 

BS climb left side of face, TO Michael Janata

A7 MILKING MICE 6B 

BS under roof with big sidepull hueco, climb up to lip and TO Michael Janata

A8 FLAT CAT 6A 

BS on rail, move slightly right to lip and TO xx Michael Janata

A9 PIT BULL POT PIE 6A 

BS on rail, move slightly left to lip and TO xx Michael Janata

B1 ELLIPSIS 7B 

BS in left eye, step into it and move via right eye to TO on right xxx Sean Creman

B2 PROJECT 6Cish

B3 SNAKE N BAKE 6C 

S on edges, move up slightly left, to slopy rail, right to next rail, match, left over xx Michael Janata

B4 TOO SLOW DOE 6B 

Both hands in break, dyno left to next break, match, right on sidepull, TO xxx Michael Janata

B5 NO FEAR DEER 6C 

BS both hands on jug, right to sloper, left over to crimp/layback, right far right to sloper, move straight up to TO xxx Michael Janata

B6

B7 SUMO DELIGHT 7B 

BS on 2 underclings, right up to 2 finger pocket, right again to xx Michael Janata

B8 ROADKILL CAFE 7B+ 

BS right on sidepull, left in break/pocket, right up to pinch/undercling, left to pinch, left again to big hold on lip, match, left to crimp, dyno to top, TO xxx Michael Janata

B9 THUMPER ON THE BUMPER 7B 

BS left on sidepull, right in break/pocket, right to good hold on rail, left to big sidepull, right further left on rail, long move right to little edge, match, TO FLAKED SNAKE xx Michael Janata

B10 FLAKED SNAKE 4 

SS climb via huge fin and rails, climb slightly right to TO xx Michael Janata

B11 RIGOR MORTIS 7B 

BS left in pocket, right on crimp, dyno to jug on right, TO FLAKED xx Michael Janata

B12 NO LUCK BUCK 6A 

SS on good hold in middle of wall, left on top of pillar, match, climb down the break on right, up to jug in next break, up to slopery break, climb left and TO xxx Michael Janat

C1 PROJECT 7Bish 

SS, move right along small rail to big hold, TO further right xx

C2 5B 

SS just right of arete, TO x Michael Janata

C3 5C 

SS on arete, TO x Michael Janata

C4 6B 

BS both hands on undercling, move to lip and TO xx Michael Janata

C5 5B 

SS left hueco, right over lip, TO x Michael Janata

C6 SWIRL SQUIRRL 6B 

SS right hand on sloper on lip, match and dyno to left, TO xxx Michael Janata

C7 PROJECT 7Cish 

SS climb easiest way up middle of wall xxx

C8 CHEAP SHEEP 6A 

BS both hands in rail, move up right to pocket, left up and again to jug, TO xx

C9 SQUISH OF FISH 5C 

SS climb via both cracks to TO xxx Michael Janata

C10 PROJECT 

climb left side of wall, TO 7Aish xxx

C11 5C 

SS climb right side of wall via crimps xx Michael Janata

D1 POT LUCK BUCK 4 

SS climb slab and TO on arete xx Michael Janata

D2 CEDERBERG SUSHI 4 

SS climb crack on slab and TO xx Guy Holwill

D3 RATOVAN 4 

SS climb via crack and sidepulls to TO xx Guy Holwill

D4 4 

SS on arete, right on edge, left up to edge, climb slightly right, TO xxx Michael Janata

D5 ITS A KITTY 5 

SS on arete, right on edge, left up to edge, climb arete, TO xxx Michael Janata

D6 DEAD DONKEY 5 

SS right on sidepull, dyno to TO, move right to TO xxx Michael Janata

D7 6A 

BS on sidepull,move up left to lip, TO xx Guy Holwill

E1 6A 

SS crimp with right, dyno left to jug, to break, TO xxx Michael Janata

E2 PROJECT 7Bish 

xxx

E3 POODLES N NOODLES 6A 

SS right on hold, dyno left to edge, go to break, slightly right through crack to TO xxx Michael Janata

E4 SS both hands on good hold, right in crack, left to break, right on sidepull, left to next break, match, TO through crack xx Michael Janata

E5 3 

SS climb wall xx Michael Janata

E6 PRAIRE DOG PATE 6A 

SS climb wall left of leaning boulder, TO x Michael Janata

E7 SNAKE BAKE 5C 

BS on underclings, climb slightly right and TO xx Michael Janata

E8 POSSUM PIE 2 

SS climb wall just right of YOU KILL, WE GRILL xxx Michael Janata

E9 YOU KILL, WE GRILL 7A+ 

BS both hands in jug, right up to flat hold, move left along rail to jugs, long dyno to hold on lip, TO xx Michael Janata

F1 

both hands in seam, climb vertical crack to TO

F2 

start under crack, traverse left for 2 m and TO via crimps on face

F3 

 ???

F4 6B 

BS on big hold, climb arete xxx

F5

F6 5A 

Climb slab xxx

Fields of Joy

A field of quite big boulders, under a cliff line, laying gently on a platform, just above the cliffs down to the valley. The sandstone almost looks like rough granite, the lines are often big and obvious. Friction is very good. It covers many styles of climbing, from the highball slab to roof climbing. Boulders facing to all kind of directions.

A1 STACKER 7C 

Klem, Flo, Tom

A2 ALL GOLD 7B 

SS to big slot for both hands, dyno to top, TO Klem, Flo, Tom

A3 BLIND DATE 7A 

Klem, Flo, Tom

A4 STONE FREE 2 

SS climb superb little slab on perfect rock, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom

A5 SCHWAMMERL 5B 

SD in big hueco, climb out to chicken heads, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom

C1 3 

SS 1m right of arete, climb up and TO xx Michael Janata

C2 5B 

SS just left of arete, TO xx Michael Janata

C3 CIAO BELLA 6A 

xxx Michael Janata

C4 2 

SS follow crack to left. reach up to good seam, TO xx Michael Janata

C5 5C 

SS in crack, go up to edges and to break, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom

C6 SNEAK 6C 

SS on big sloper right, jump to next slopers, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom

C7 

7B

C8 MANIAC 7B

D1 DAGGA 6B 

SD to side undercling, up to good smoth shaped holds, TO Klem, Flo, Tom

D2 ORGASMIC 6B 

Klem, Flo, Tom

D3 CHICKEN OF BEEF 6A 

SS with sloper, jump to one of the two pockets, mantoe, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

D4 WILDER FUCHS 5B 

SS climb crack, TO (take care for loose rock) xx Klem, Flo, Tom

D5 GAY CHARLY 5C 

SS climb slab with cracks xx Klem, Flo, Tom

D6 ALTER HASE 5A 

SS on edges, go up the slab, kind of groove, TO Klem, Flo, Tom

E1 NEMISIS 3 

SS on little wall, left on sloper, right on crimp, move up left, TO xxx Michael Janata

E2 6A 

SS in break, long move to next break, to jugs, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom

E3 IM JULI 7A+ 

xxx Michael Janata

E4 GEGEN DEN WIND 7A 

Originally graded 7B x Klem, Flo, Tom

E5 SPECIAL CUTS 7A 

xx Klem, Flo, Tom

E6 MONASTERY 7B 

xx Klem, Flo, Tom

E7 KIESL 7A 

xx Klem, Flo, Tom

E8 FREE 5C 

SS in gully, climb up, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

E9 REBELLION 5A 

Highball on right side of the wall, by the arete, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

E10 7B 

Klem, Flo, Tom

E11 SWISS SECRET 7A 

SD crimpy seam both hands, dyno to pocket, TO Klem, Flo, Tom

E12 6A 

SD both hands in big pocket, lean into sidepull, go up, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom

E13 6A 

xx Klem, Flo, Tom

E14 SINGHA BRAGA 7C 

SS crimp right, jump to pocket left, climb up via crimps, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom

E15 PROJECT 

Highball xxx

E16 4 

SS on right hand side of wall, climb via seams straight to TO xx Michael Janata

E17 UNEVEN PULLUP 6A 

x Klem, Flo, Tom

E18 SHIRAZ 7A 

x Klem, Flo, Tom

E19 SUNSET WALL 6B 

SD on rail, move up to lip, TO xx Michael Janata

E20 MYTHOS 7A 

Klem, Flo, Tom

F1 6C 

SS take incut break, jump to edge, long move to top, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

F2 THE PRIVILGED 7A 

SD on boulder, climb up arete with awesome holds, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

F3 STANDARD 5A 

SS in pocket, mantle, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

F4 SIANG 7C 

SS pocket right, up to slopers, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom

F5 POP CORNER 6A 

SS arete with good holds, TO, HIGHBALL x Klem, Flo, Tom

F6 5C 

SS groove, to breaks, TO, HIGHBALL xx Klem, Flo, Tom

F7 6C 

SD arete, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

F8 MASS ACTION 6A 

SS slab, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

G1 MACHO KING 7C 

SS on boulder, climb into roof, TO

G2 GRATIS MASSAGE 6C 

SS, reach for crimps, campus, bring foot, go some more crimps, TO

G3 SENSUAL KITTEN 6B 

SS in pocket left, go up to sloper, continue, mantle, TO

G4 6A 

SS reach up to sloper, both hands up to hueco, manto, TO

G5 6A 

SS climb up mushroom holds, manlte, TO

G6 BARACUDA RAIL 7B 

x

I1 project [5ish] 

SS climb very high slab, HIGHBALL (how to get down???) x

I2 NO LATE TENDERS 8A 

xxx Klem, Flo, Tom

I3 project 

start on arete and traverse into NO LATE TENDERS xxx

I4 DIRTY LIES 7A 

Originally graded 7B xxx Klem, Flo, Tom

I5 project 

start on arete and traverse into DIRTY LIES xxx

I6 MAN OF THE DAY 6B 

Climb crack, TO. Bad landing x Klem, Flo, Tom

I7 6B 

Next to tree on big sloper (little ledge), move up on slopy holds, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom

I8 6A 

SS on left hueco, to right hueco, mantle + TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

I9 THE PRIVILGED 7A 

SD on boulder, climb up arete with awesome holds, TO, scary x Klem, Flo, Tom

I10 THE FRIDGE 6B 

xx Michael Janata

I11 BELLA VISTA 6C 

xx Michael Janata

I12 BELLA ITALIA 6A 

xx Michael Janata

Funny farm 22 - Trad Scott Noy 2011

To the left of the (Unknown 20, Guy Holwill, August 2007). Depending on your height - I had to jump a little - reach out left for a jug, do a boulder sequence up to a good rail and climb to the top.

The Goddess of 1967 - 29/30 Trad Cody Roth 2009

Start opposite a gnarled yellow wood tree. Boulder up left to a committing dyno, then move right and climb the arete.

Plateau Boulders

On the far left side of the whole area, where the cliff lines fade out and a kind of plateau forms, just before everything drops down to the gorge, there are some fine boulders to be found. The boulders are not that big, the landing is very good and each boulders has a handful of problems.

1. PRIVATE PROPERTY 6B 

xx Michael Janata

2. DRAGON 6B 

SD Arete, TO Klem, Flo, Tom

3. ESPRESSO 5B 

xx Michael Janata

4. ALI G IN DA HOUSE 6B 

xx Michael Janata

5. BORN INTO STRUGGLE 7C 

xx Klem, Flo, Tom

6. HUMAN ENERGY 7B 

Klem, Flo, Tom

7. HAHI CHECKER 2 

SS on break, up the wall, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

8. CREEPER 7A 

SD under little roof, climb up to prow, go to top of groove, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

9. GREY 4 

SS on slab on kind of arete, move to undercling, TO x Michael Janata

10. BANG BOOM BANG 6B 

SD on right holds on rail, go left and up arete, TO x Michael Janata

11. COAL CHAMBER 6C 

x Klem, Flo, Tom

12. GAMELAN 6C 

SD jugs, go up via crimps and break, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom

13. RSA 6B 

x Michael Janata

14. BALE 6B 

D same start as GIRL ON OUR MIND, go right into groove, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom

15. GIRL ON OUR MIND 6C 

x Klem, Flo, Tom

16. MODELL ROBBER 7B 

Klem, Flo, Tom

17. project (7Bish) 

x

18. POISON DWARF 7B 

x Klem, Flo, Tom

19. JOKE OF THE DAY 6B 

Klem, Flo, Tom

19a. 6C 

Michael Janata

20. BAD BOY FOR LIFE 5C 

SD in middle of boulder, red rock, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

21. ICE, ICE BABY 5C 

SD under arete, climb out arete, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

22. DESSERT ROSE 6A 

SD same start as ICE, ICE BABY, go left with sloper to jug, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

23. MAN OF THE MOMENT 7A 

xx Klem, Flo, Tom

24. UNKNOWN 7A 

move leftwards along rail, TO. Always shady x

25. UNKNOWN 7C 

SD on rail, move up into roof and right, TO. Always shady

26. CAPTAIN CHAOS 4 

SS on jug on black streak, up straight, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

27. CAPTAIN FUTURE 5B 

SS right of CAPTAIN CHAOS, on jug, up straight, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

28. CAPTAIN HORRIBLE 4 

SS on jug on black streak, up straight, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

29. CAPTAIN SPICEMAN 4 

SS right of CAPTAIN HORRIBLE, on jug, up straight, TO xx Michael Janata

30. MANTLE IN YOUR MIND 6B 

SS on lip, mantle, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom

31. 4 

SD with both hands on edge in roof, move to lip, TO x

32. CAMPARI 6B 

x Michael Janata

33. CAMPARI ORANGE 6B 

SD like CAMPARI but traverse right into ORANGE and TO x Evan Wiercx

34. ORANGE 6B

SS on big undercling, climb left out of overhang and up, TO xx Michael Janata

35. 5C S

S on big undercling, climb left out of overhang and up, TO xx Michael Janata

36. 4 

SD both hands on rail, move up, TO x Michael Janata

37. DOUBLE WOPPER 7A 

Michael Janata

38. WOPPER 6B 

x Michael Janata

39. LET IT DIE 6C 

xx Klem, Flo, Tom

40. FEIST 6C 

SD on sidepull, to jug, long move to next jug, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

41. BLACK VELVET 8A 

x Klem, Flo, Tom

42. project (>7C) 

SD on right, traverse left on low lip on slopers, TO somewhere x Klem, Flo, Tom

43. project (6C-7A) 

SD with both hands on good layback, move right and TO x

44. MINKI 7B 

SS back in roof on side pulls, move out, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

45. LOGIXX 2 

x Michael Janata

Just above the Plateau Boulders on the far left hand side of the whole area. It contains of the Arch Valley and the surrounding problems. Climbing ist mostly on walls but on the left side are some freestanding boulders. Landing is generally very good.

50. THE COOLER 6C 

SD on hueco, go to left side of hueco, go to arete, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom

51. BIG EARS 6C 

SD on horns, up to breaks, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom

52. 7B 

x Klem, Flo, Tom

53. CONSEQUENT LOOSING 7C 

x Klem, Flo, Tom

54. COOLER SHAKER 5C 

SD on big ledge, go to next big hold, TO Klem, Flo, Tom

55. project (7Cish)

xxx

56. THE SUMMER IS HERE 5A 

xxx Michael Janata

57. WINTER 6A 

xxx Michael Janata

57a xxx 

Michael Janata

57b 

SS as WINTER, move left in rail via huge hole to crack, TO xxx Douglas Ward

58. 6C 

SD on jug, to incut, to jug, up to slopers, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

59. BULLET PROOF 7B 

SD on jug, to next jugs, dyno to sloper (red coloured), TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom

60. I BELIEVE I CAN FLY 7C 

SS on crimps to seam, jump up to good sloper, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom

61. ENJOY 6B 

SS on arete, climb arete, TO xx Michael Janata

62. ZEN IS ON SALE 6C 

SS big slot to next slot, go slightly right, TO straight

63. DEEP THROAT 7C 

SS with high edges, go to sidepull, big cross over to crack, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom

64. CRACK JUNKEY 6B 

SS horizontal break, go up to crack, TO Klem, Flo, Tom

65. CRACK DEALER 7B 

SS up the crack, TO Klem, Flo, Tom

66. MISS CAVE 7B 

SD on rail, go up with jugs, climb black overhanging prow, TO Klem, Flo, Tom

67. ALPINE ROCKER 6A 

SS climb slab and use chimney if you want, TO Klem, Flo, Tom

68. MOJITO 6C 

SD dyno up, match, climb straight, TO xx Michael Janata

69. IN BETWEEN DREAMS 8A 

Klem, Flo, Tom

70. HYPER HYPER 7A

SS on side pulls, follow crack up and right, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

71. GIN TONIC 6B 

Jump start to lip, climb face on left via good edges, TO xxx Michael Janata

72. THE GOOD SEED 7B 

Klem, Flo, Tom

73. GUILLOTINE 6C

SD on big flake (loose), to pocket ( you can look through it), TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

74. DIRECTORS CUNT 7B 

xxx Klem, Flo, Tom

75. ESOTERRORIST 7A

x Klem, Flo, Tom

76. ARCH BABY 7C

xx Klem, Flo, Tom

77. PUSH THE TEMPO 7B 

SD go to holds in crack, dyno to flat top, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

78. PUSH THE BUTTONS 7C 

SD feet under roof, go to edges, dyno to top, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom

79. DAWN WITH WORDS 6C 

xxx Klem, Flo, Tom

80. SEX ETIQUETTE 6C 

xx Klem, Flo, Tom

81. MAN OR MACHINE 7C 

x Klem, Flo, Tom

82. ONE WITH THE FREAKS 7A 

x Klem, Flo, Tom

83a 3 

SS climb straight up via sidepulls to TO xx Evan Wiercx

83. POLE POSITION 5C 

xx Klem, Flo, Tom

84. UNDER CONTROL 6B 

x Klem, Flo, Tom

85. HES ON MY MIND 7A 

Klem, Flo, Tom

86. IT WILL DO THE JOB 5C 

SS on slopers, to break, TO Klem, Flo, Tom

87. WINDOW LICKER 6A 

SS on slopers, to slopers, up and left to pocket, TO Klem, Flo, Tom

88. SNEAK 5B 

SS on edges, to break, TO Klem, Flo, Tom

Photos

Flat Cat 6A at the Roadkill Café

Bouldering at the Roadkill Café

Ellipsis 7B at the Roadkill Café