De Pakhuys
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De Pakhuys | |
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Latitude | -32.120292 |
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Longitude | 19.059516 |
Climbing Type | Bouldering, Sport, Trad |
Rock Type | Sandstone |
Season | Winter is best, all year round |
Province | Western Cape |
Area | Rocklands |
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Contents
How to get there
Fees & Permits
Accommodation & Food
Attractions & Activities
Map
The bouldering and sport climbing are on Thys Kruger's farm which is 26km from Clanwilliam, just over the Pakhuis Pass.
Access Issues
This land is privately-owned. The area will be closed if the following rules are disobeyed:
- Do not enter without paying the required entry fees.
- Do not litter (e.g. cigarette butts, finger tape).
- Do not damage or remove vegetation.
- Do not wander off existing paths.
- Do not feed wild animals.
- Do not bolt without the landowner's permission.
- Bury any toilet paper etc. in a deep hole (>10cm).
Accommodation
De Pakhuys (phone 027 482 1468) offers camping and cottages. It is 26km from Clanwilliam, just over the Pakhuis Pass (second turnoff to the right after the pass). Camping costs R50 per person per night (Sept 2012). The camp site has bathrooms and showers, as well as a communal kitchen (fridge, kettle, stove) and communal braai area with a bar.
Sport / Trad Routes
The sport routes are on large boulders at the bouldering area called Fields of Joy. From the campsite, drive a few hundred meters back towards the farm house, then take a left turn at the gate and drive for a few hundred metres more. Park and walk up the steepish hillside to the left, following the stone cairns to the boulders. The walk-in takes about 10 minutes.
Ask permission of the landowners Thys and Mark before bolting any new line.
Below: left to right:
- Facebook [3 bolts, chains] 25, Guy Holwill 2007
Climbs the crack on the free-standing boulder. The boulder has a tap-like feature on the opposite side (visible from down the hill at the parking area) and is about 5 minutes walk from the 20 and the 19.
- Unknown 20, Guy Holwill, August 2007
Up the face on the boulder left of the 19 arete route.
- Unknown 19, Guy Holwill, August 2007
Up the arete on the boulder right of the 20.
- Crack Dealer 18, Kyle Rycroft, June 2008
- KGB 20, [8 bolts, chains] Graham Shillington, August 2007
Up the obvious crack feature on the main face to the right of and on the same boulder as the 19 arete and Crack Dealer route.
- Myspace 27, [8 bolts, chains] Jeremy Samson, August 2007
Bouldering
The topos and original info have been provided by Michael Janata.
The Roadkill Café
A field of big boulders just above the campground. Short walk in, sheltered from the wind and lots of sun makes it a great winter destination.
Roughness factor:
- x huuuaaa, thats rough
- xx average roughness
- xxx nice and smooth rock for tired fingers
- A1 5B
- BS in hole, move slightly left to good holds, long move to top rail, TOxxx Michael Janata
- A2 CHUNK OF SKUNK 5B
- BS on arete, climb up and TO Evan Wiercx
- A3 YETI SPAGETTI 6C
- BS under roof, move over lip, then in seam leftwards to xxx Evan Wiercx
- A4 4
- BS climb face, TO Michael Janata
- A5 COLLIE COLD CUTS
- Evan Wiercx
- A6 5C
- BS climb left side of face, TO Michael Janata
- A7 MILKING MICE 6B
- BS under roof with big sidepull hueco, climb up to lip and TO Michael Janata
- A8 FLAT CAT 6A
- BS on rail, move slightly right to lip and TO xx Michael Janata
- A9 PIT BULL POT PIE 6A
- BS on rail, move slightly left to lip and TO xx Michael Janata
- B1 ELLIPSIS 7B
- BS in left eye, step into it and move via right eye to TO on right xxx Sean Creman
- B2 PROJECT 6Cish
- B3 SNAKE N BAKE 6C
- S on edges, move up slightly left, to slopy rail, right to next rail, match, left over xx Michael Janata
- B4 TOO SLOW DOE 6B
- Both hands in break, dyno left to next break, match, right on sidepull, TO xxx Michael Janata
- B5 NO FEAR DEER 6C
- BS both hands on jug, right to sloper, left over to crimp/layback, right far right to sloper, move straight up to TO xxx Michael Janata
- B6
- B7 SUMO DELIGHT 7B
- BS on 2 underclings, right up to 2 finger pocket, right again to xx Michael Janata
- B8 ROADKILL CAFE 7B+
- BS right on sidepull, left in break/pocket, right up to pinch/undercling, left to pinch, left again to big hold on lip, match, left to crimp, dyno to top, TO xxx Michael Janata
- B9 THUMPER ON THE BUMPER 7B
- BS left on sidepull, right in break/pocket, right to good hold on rail, left to big sidepull, right further left on rail, long move right to little edge, match, TO FLAKED SNAKE xx Michael Janata
- B10 FLAKED SNAKE 4
- SS climb via huge fin and rails, climb slightly right to TO xx Michael Janata
- B11 RIGOR MORTIS 7B
- BS left in pocket, right on crimp, dyno to jug on right, TO FLAKED xx Michael Janata
- B12 NO LUCK BUCK 6A
- SS on good hold in middle of wall, left on top of pillar, match, climb down the break on right, up to jug in next break, up to slopery break, climb left and TO xxx Michael Janat
- C1 PROJECT 7Bish
- SS, move right along small rail to big hold, TO further right xx
- C2 5B
- SS just right of arete, TO x Michael Janata
- C3 5C
- SS on arete, TO x Michael Janata
- C4 6B
- BS both hands on undercling, move to lip and TO xx Michael Janata
- C5 5B
- SS left hueco, right over lip, TO x Michael Janata
- C6 SWIRL SQUIRRL 6B
- SS right hand on sloper on lip, match and dyno to left, TO xxx Michael Janata
- C7 PROJECT 7Cish
- SS climb easiest way up middle of wall xxx
- C8 CHEAP SHEEP 6A
- BS both hands in rail, move up right to pocket, left up and again to jug, TO xx
- C9 SQUISH OF FISH 5C
- SS climb via both cracks to TO xxx Michael Janata
- C10 PROJECT
- climb left side of wall, TO 7Aish xxx
- C11 5C
- SS climb right side of wall via crimps xx Michael Janata
- D1 POT LUCK BUCK 4
- SS climb slab and TO on arete xx Michael Janata
- D2 CEDERBERG SUSHI 4
- SS climb crack on slab and TO xx Guy Holwill
- D3 RATOVAN 4
- SS climb via crack and sidepulls to TO xx Guy Holwill
- D4 4
- SS on arete, right on edge, left up to edge, climb slightly right, TO xxx Michael Janata
- D5 ITS A KITTY 5
- SS on arete, right on edge, left up to edge, climb arete, TO xxx Michael Janata
- D6 DEAD DONKEY 5
- SS right on sidepull, dyno to TO, move right to TO xxx Michael Janata
- D7 6A
- BS on sidepull,move up left to lip, TO xx Guy Holwill
- E1 6A
- SS crimp with right, dyno left to jug, to break, TO xxx Michael Janata
- E2 PROJECT 7Bish
- xxx
- E3 POODLES N NOODLES 6A
- SS right on hold, dyno left to edge, go to break, slightly right through crack to TO xxx Michael Janata
- E4 SS both hands on good hold, right in crack, left to break, right on sidepull, left to next break, match, TO through crack xx Michael Janata
- E5 3
- SS climb wall xx Michael Janata
- E6 PRAIRE DOG PATE 6A
- SS climb wall left of leaning boulder, TO x Michael Janata
- E7 SNAKE BAKE 5C
- BS on underclings, climb slightly right and TO xx Michael Janata
- E8 POSSUM PIE 2
- SS climb wall just right of YOU KILL, WE GRILL xxx Michael Janata
- E9 YOU KILL, WE GRILL 7A+
- BS both hands in jug, right up to flat hold, move left along rail to jugs, long dyno to hold on lip, TO xx Michael Janata
- F1
- both hands in seam, climb vertical crack to TO
- F2
- start under crack, traverse left for 2 m and TO via crimps on face
- F3
- ???
- F4 6B
- BS on big hold, climb arete xxx
- F5
- F6 5A
- Climb slab xxx
Fields of Joy
A field of quite big boulders, under a cliff line, laying gently on a platform, just above the cliffs down to the valley. The sandstone almost looks like rough granite, the lines are often big and obvious. Friction is very good. It covers many styles of climbing, from the highball slab to roof climbing. Boulders facing to all kind of directions.
- A1 STACKER 7C
- Klem, Flo, Tom
- A2 ALL GOLD 7B
- SS to big slot for both hands, dyno to top, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
- A3 BLIND DATE 7A
- Klem, Flo, Tom
- A4 STONE FREE 2
- SS climb superb little slab on perfect rock, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
- A5 SCHWAMMERL 5B
- SD in big hueco, climb out to chicken heads, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
- C1 3
- SS 1m right of arete, climb up and TO xx Michael Janata
- C2 5B
- SS just left of arete, TO xx Michael Janata
- C3 CIAO BELLA 6A
- xxx Michael Janata
- C4 2
- SS follow crack to left. reach up to good seam, TO xx Michael Janata
- C5 5C
- SS in crack, go up to edges and to break, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
- C6 SNEAK 6C
- SS on big sloper right, jump to next slopers, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
- C7
- 7B
- C8 MANIAC 7B
- D1 DAGGA 6B
- SD to side undercling, up to good smoth shaped holds, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
- D2 ORGASMIC 6B
- Klem, Flo, Tom
- D3 CHICKEN OF BEEF 6A
- SS with sloper, jump to one of the two pockets, mantoe, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- D4 WILDER FUCHS 5B
- SS climb crack, TO (take care for loose rock) xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- D5 GAY CHARLY 5C
- SS climb slab with cracks xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- D6 ALTER HASE 5A
- SS on edges, go up the slab, kind of groove, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
- E1 NEMISIS 3
- SS on little wall, left on sloper, right on crimp, move up left, TO xxx Michael Janata
- E2 6A
- SS in break, long move to next break, to jugs, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
- E3 IM JULI 7A+
- xxx Michael Janata
- E4 GEGEN DEN WIND 7A
- Originally graded 7B x Klem, Flo, Tom
- E5 SPECIAL CUTS 7A
- xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- E6 MONASTERY 7B
- xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- E7 KIESL 7A
- xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- E8 FREE 5C
- SS in gully, climb up, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- E9 REBELLION 5A
- Highball on right side of the wall, by the arete, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- E10 7B
- Klem, Flo, Tom
- E11 SWISS SECRET 7A
- SD crimpy seam both hands, dyno to pocket, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
- E12 6A
- SD both hands in big pocket, lean into sidepull, go up, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
- E13 6A
- xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- E14 SINGHA BRAGA 7C
- SS crimp right, jump to pocket left, climb up via crimps, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
- E15 PROJECT
- Highball xxx
- E16 4
- SS on right hand side of wall, climb via seams straight to TO xx Michael Janata
- E17 UNEVEN PULLUP 6A
- x Klem, Flo, Tom
- E18 SHIRAZ 7A
- x Klem, Flo, Tom
- E19 SUNSET WALL 6B
- SD on rail, move up to lip, TO xx Michael Janata
- E20 MYTHOS 7A
- Klem, Flo, Tom
- F1 6C
- SS take incut break, jump to edge, long move to top, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- F2 THE PRIVILGED 7A
- SD on boulder, climb up arete with awesome holds, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- F3 STANDARD 5A
- SS in pocket, mantle, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- F4 SIANG 7C
- SS pocket right, up to slopers, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
- F5 POP CORNER 6A
- SS arete with good holds, TO, HIGHBALL x Klem, Flo, Tom
- F6 5C
- SS groove, to breaks, TO, HIGHBALL xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- F7 6C
- SD arete, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- F8 MASS ACTION 6A
- SS slab, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- G1 MACHO KING 7C
- SS on boulder, climb into roof, TO
- G2 GRATIS MASSAGE 6C
- SS, reach for crimps, campus, bring foot, go some more crimps, TO
- G3 SENSUAL KITTEN 6B
- SS in pocket left, go up to sloper, continue, mantle, TO
- G4 6A
- SS reach up to sloper, both hands up to hueco, manto, TO
- G5 6A
- SS climb up mushroom holds, manlte, TO
- G6 BARACUDA RAIL 7B
- x
- I1 project [5ish]
- SS climb very high slab, HIGHBALL (how to get down???) x
- I2 NO LATE TENDERS 8A
- xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
- I3 project
- start on arete and traverse into NO LATE TENDERS xxx
- I4 DIRTY LIES 7A
- Originally graded 7B xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
- I5 project
- start on arete and traverse into DIRTY LIES xxx
- I6 MAN OF THE DAY 6B
- Climb crack, TO. Bad landing x Klem, Flo, Tom
- I7 6B
- Next to tree on big sloper (little ledge), move up on slopy holds, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
- I8 6A
- SS on left hueco, to right hueco, mantle + TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- I9 THE PRIVILGED 7A
- SD on boulder, climb up arete with awesome holds, TO, scary x Klem, Flo, Tom
- I10 THE FRIDGE 6B
- xx Michael Janata
- I11 BELLA VISTA 6C
- xx Michael Janata
- I12 BELLA ITALIA 6A
- xx Michael Janata
- Funny farm 22 - Trad Scott Noy 2011
To the left of the (Unknown 20, Guy Holwill, August 2007). Depending on your height - I had to jump a little - reach out left for a jug, do a boulder sequence up to a good rail and climb to the top.
- The Goddess of 1967 - 29/30 Trad Cody Roth 2009
Start opposite a gnarled yellow wood tree. Boulder up left to a committing dyno, then move right and climb the arete.
Plateau Boulders
On the far left side of the whole area, where the cliff lines fade out and a kind of plateau forms, just before everything drops down to the gorge, there are some fine boulders to be found. The boulders are not that big, the landing is very good and each boulders has a handful of problems.
- 1. PRIVATE PROPERTY 6B
- xx Michael Janata
- 2. DRAGON 6B
- SD Arete, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
- 3. ESPRESSO 5B
- xx Michael Janata
- 4. ALI G IN DA HOUSE 6B
- xx Michael Janata
- 5. BORN INTO STRUGGLE 7C
- xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 6. HUMAN ENERGY 7B
- Klem, Flo, Tom
- 7. HAHI CHECKER 2
- SS on break, up the wall, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 8. CREEPER 7A
- SD under little roof, climb up to prow, go to top of groove, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 9. GREY 4
- SS on slab on kind of arete, move to undercling, TO x Michael Janata
- 10. BANG BOOM BANG 6B
- SD on right holds on rail, go left and up arete, TO x Michael Janata
- 11. COAL CHAMBER 6C
- x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 12. GAMELAN 6C
- SD jugs, go up via crimps and break, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 13. RSA 6B
- x Michael Janata
- 14. BALE 6B
- D same start as GIRL ON OUR MIND, go right into groove, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 15. GIRL ON OUR MIND 6C
- x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 16. MODELL ROBBER 7B
- Klem, Flo, Tom
- 17. project (7Bish)
- x
- 18. POISON DWARF 7B
- x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 19. JOKE OF THE DAY 6B
- Klem, Flo, Tom
- 19a. 6C
- Michael Janata
- 20. BAD BOY FOR LIFE 5C
- SD in middle of boulder, red rock, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 21. ICE, ICE BABY 5C
- SD under arete, climb out arete, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 22. DESSERT ROSE 6A
- SD same start as ICE, ICE BABY, go left with sloper to jug, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 23. MAN OF THE MOMENT 7A
- xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 24. UNKNOWN 7A
- move leftwards along rail, TO. Always shady x
- 25. UNKNOWN 7C
- SD on rail, move up into roof and right, TO. Always shady
- 26. CAPTAIN CHAOS 4
- SS on jug on black streak, up straight, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 27. CAPTAIN FUTURE 5B
- SS right of CAPTAIN CHAOS, on jug, up straight, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 28. CAPTAIN HORRIBLE 4
- SS on jug on black streak, up straight, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 29. CAPTAIN SPICEMAN 4
- SS right of CAPTAIN HORRIBLE, on jug, up straight, TO xx Michael Janata
- 30. MANTLE IN YOUR MIND 6B
- SS on lip, mantle, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 31. 4
- SD with both hands on edge in roof, move to lip, TO x
- 32. CAMPARI 6B
- x Michael Janata
- 33. CAMPARI ORANGE 6B
- SD like CAMPARI but traverse right into ORANGE and TO x Evan Wiercx
- 34. ORANGE 6B
- SS on big undercling, climb left out of overhang and up, TO xx Michael Janata
- 35. 5C S
- S on big undercling, climb left out of overhang and up, TO xx Michael Janata
- 36. 4
- SD both hands on rail, move up, TO x Michael Janata
- 37. DOUBLE WOPPER 7A
- Michael Janata
- 38. WOPPER 6B
- x Michael Janata
- 39. LET IT DIE 6C
- xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 40. FEIST 6C
- SD on sidepull, to jug, long move to next jug, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 41. BLACK VELVET 8A
- x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 42. project (>7C)
- SD on right, traverse left on low lip on slopers, TO somewhere x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 43. project (6C-7A)
- SD with both hands on good layback, move right and TO x
- 44. MINKI 7B
- SS back in roof on side pulls, move out, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 45. LOGIXX 2
- x Michael Janata
Just above the Plateau Boulders on the far left hand side of the whole area. It contains of the Arch Valley and the surrounding problems. Climbing ist mostly on walls but on the left side are some freestanding boulders. Landing is generally very good.
- 50. THE COOLER 6C
- SD on hueco, go to left side of hueco, go to arete, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 51. BIG EARS 6C
- SD on horns, up to breaks, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 52. 7B
- x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 53. CONSEQUENT LOOSING 7C
- x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 54. COOLER SHAKER 5C
- SD on big ledge, go to next big hold, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
- 55. project (7Cish)
- xxx
- 56. THE SUMMER IS HERE 5A
- xxx Michael Janata
- 57. WINTER 6A
- xxx Michael Janata
- 57a xxx
- Michael Janata
- 57b
- SS as WINTER, move left in rail via huge hole to crack, TO xxx Douglas Ward
- 58. 6C
- SD on jug, to incut, to jug, up to slopers, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 59. BULLET PROOF 7B
- SD on jug, to next jugs, dyno to sloper (red coloured), TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 60. I BELIEVE I CAN FLY 7C
- SS on crimps to seam, jump up to good sloper, TO xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 61. ENJOY 6B
- SS on arete, climb arete, TO xx Michael Janata
- 62. ZEN IS ON SALE 6C
- SS big slot to next slot, go slightly right, TO straight
- 63. DEEP THROAT 7C
- SS with high edges, go to sidepull, big cross over to crack, TO x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 64. CRACK JUNKEY 6B
- SS horizontal break, go up to crack, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
- 65. CRACK DEALER 7B
- SS up the crack, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
- 66. MISS CAVE 7B
- SD on rail, go up with jugs, climb black overhanging prow, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
- 67. ALPINE ROCKER 6A
- SS climb slab and use chimney if you want, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
- 68. MOJITO 6C
- SD dyno up, match, climb straight, TO xx Michael Janata
- 69. IN BETWEEN DREAMS 8A
- Klem, Flo, Tom
- 70. HYPER HYPER 7A
- SS on side pulls, follow crack up and right, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 71. GIN TONIC 6B
- Jump start to lip, climb face on left via good edges, TO xxx Michael Janata
- 72. THE GOOD SEED 7B
- Klem, Flo, Tom
- 73. GUILLOTINE 6C
- SD on big flake (loose), to pocket ( you can look through it), TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 74. DIRECTORS CUNT 7B
- xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 75. ESOTERRORIST 7A
- x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 76. ARCH BABY 7C
- xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 77. PUSH THE TEMPO 7B
- SD go to holds in crack, dyno to flat top, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 78. PUSH THE BUTTONS 7C
- SD feet under roof, go to edges, dyno to top, TO xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 79. DAWN WITH WORDS 6C
- xxx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 80. SEX ETIQUETTE 6C
- xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 81. MAN OR MACHINE 7C
- x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 82. ONE WITH THE FREAKS 7A
- x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 83a 3
- SS climb straight up via sidepulls to TO xx Evan Wiercx
- 83. POLE POSITION 5C
- xx Klem, Flo, Tom
- 84. UNDER CONTROL 6B
- x Klem, Flo, Tom
- 85. HES ON MY MIND 7A
- Klem, Flo, Tom
- 86. IT WILL DO THE JOB 5C
- SS on slopers, to break, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
- 87. WINDOW LICKER 6A
- SS on slopers, to slopers, up and left to pocket, TO Klem, Flo, Tom
- 88. SNEAK 5B
- SS on edges, to break, TO Klem, Flo, Tom