Drakensberg

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The Sentinel

Gd kn paradigmshift.jpg

Paradigm Shift, 6 pitches 20-22, North Face of the Sentinel

Gear: 2X50m ropes. 14 Quickdraws.

Getting there:

Approach Follow the path from the car park to just below the main face underneath the leftward facing corner system that is the North Face route. Leave the path at the cairns and follow the obvious rightward sloping grass slope that cuts through the rock bands until it is possible to walk to the clean faces just right of the corner system. Climb about 5 metres up the upmost grass ledge below a crack system just right of the flake. First bolt should be seen just right of flake.

Descent: Rappel the route using 2X50m ropes.


Pitch 1: Follow crack system to top of flake and break left and then up to belay station.

Pitch 2: From stance move up to small roof, pull through roof and delicately balance up to ledge. Continue up tending rightward to awkward layback and up to grassy ledge and stance.

Pitch 3: From stance move up and left to bolt next to loose flake, delicately stand on flake and mantle up to ledge and continue up off-width to a ledge below a roof. Move out left via an airy traverse and mantle up to grassy ledge and follow this rightward to the stance.

Pitch 4: Thin moves and layback take you to a ledge, move left to base of pillar and delicate balance your way up to the corner system and belay on top of pillar.

Pitch 5: From stance move left on thin holds until able to move up and follow thin corner to ledge. Traverse left below big roof, pull through on left side and continue up to grassy ledge and stance.

Pitch 6: Walk right and then traverse left until you can reach right facing corner and up to ledge, traverse left and then up and right to broken flake. Climb this until a rightward corner system is reached. Climb this to the top, breaking left about 5m before the top and going around big boulder on top. Bolts just over the lip. (Note: this pitch is a bit run out and can be supplemented by some medium cams. Due to the length of the pitch it generates rope drag so climbing on two rope is recommended. More bolts to be added in time.)