Firecracker F3/M2 * 1974
Firecracker * Grade F3/M2
H Boshoff and P Dawson 1974
Daunting and Dangerous
The route commences 10 metres to the left of Exposure in F Major, on a pitch sometimes used as a start to Thunderbolt.
P1: 40m 18/19. Start 2 metres to the left of a right-angled ‘open book’ capped by an overhang at 10 metres. Climb a recess diagonally to the left for 20 metres. Move up 5 metres into a V-shaped recess. Climb this, moving out right at the top. Climb up 2 metres. Cross over to the left (“G1”) and climb easy rock left-wards to a ledge. P2: 15m 13/14. Climb a recess straight above to another ledge. 30m 16/17. Climb straight up for 4 metres and step left onto a corner. Climb diagonally left until it is possible to move up under the roof of the overhang. Traverse delicately right to a small stance. 35m “F2/M1”. Climb diagonally up and right for 7 metres until it is possible to break diagonally left through the overhang by means of one piton. Climb up 7 metres to the base of a “layback” crack. ‘Aid’ up the crack and a face just to the left of it until it is possible to move out left to a stance. 15m “F2/M2”. Climb the rib on the left of the stance. Traverse back right to the crack on the right of an enormous hanging block above. ‘Aid’ up the crack, moving left at the top and then up to a small stance. 15m “M1”. ‘Aid up to a roof and to the left past a red block. Continue up the crack until equipment runs out and make a stance below the main roof in the crack. 20m “F2/M1”. Continue aiding up the crack until it is possible to turn a small rectangular overhang on the left. Continue up for 2 metres until it is possible to free-climb onto a grey nose on the right and climb steep rock to a small stance. 12m “F1”. Climb up to a big ledge above. 30m “F3/M1”. Climb up the crack on the right of the brown recessed face above. Traverse left at the top – second half of the traverse is free. Free-climb up a chimney for 6 metres to a stance. 25m “F3/M2”. Climb diagonally left across a steep face for 13m. Move up to a “blockish” overhang. Aid through an unobvious break to the right and continue aiding with difficulty up the break to a stance. 25m “F2”. Traverse right into the obvious exit chimney. Climb the chimney to a big ledge at the top. Walk 10m to the right along the ledge and climb broken faces to the top.