Fountain Ledge - Revision history

Jimbo: added route

2013-06-08T11:40:48Z

added route

Q20 at 14:19, 29 April 2013

2013-04-29T14:19:57Z

Jimbo: /* The Squid and the Whale (31) ***** */

2013-02-27T13:23:03Z

The Squid and the Whale (31) *****

Justin: /* The Squid and the Whale (31) ***** */

2013-02-27T13:07:18Z

The Squid and the Whale (31) *****

Justin at 11:55, 27 February 2013

2013-02-27T11:55:07Z

Smityb: /* Fountain Reach Up 21 */

2013-02-19T13:37:50Z

Fountain Reach Up 21

Smityb: /* Fountain Reach Up 21 */

2013-02-19T13:37:13Z

Fountain Reach Up 21

Justin at 09:39, 18 February 2013

2013-02-18T09:39:36Z

Douw: Moved Arms Race Direct from the Africa Ledge page and put routes in order.

2013-01-05T12:53:48Z

Moved Arms Race Direct from the Africa Ledge page and put routes in order.

Hilton at 16:51, 4 July 2012

2012-07-04T16:51:40Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:40, 8 June 2013
Line 199:		Line 199:

	'''First ascent:''' J. Smith Feb 2013		'''First ascent:''' J. Smith Feb 2013
		+
		+
		+
		+	==='''The Last of the Mohawks (31/32) *****'''===
		+
		+	'''Start:''' As for The Squid and the Whale
		+
		+	'''Pitch 1 40m (31/32):'''
		+
		+	Scramble up to the ledge just left of the large blocks. Climb up the center of the overhanging face tending rightwards past the 2nd peg of Jeopardy and up to the Roulette rail. Pull through the Roulette rail crux and straight through the next roof to establish on the headwall. Climb straight up to the Hook rail. Pull through the small roof about a meter left of the Captain Hook corner and climb diagonally on underclings to join Double Jeopardy. Rail left as for Double Jeopardy to finish on the headwall.
		+
		+	'''First ascent:''' J. Smith April 2013

@@ Line 178: / Line 178: @@
 '''First ascent:'''  Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones 22 April 2012
@@ Line 186: / Line 184: @@
 [[File:Squid-and-the-Whale.jpg|350x467px|thumb|alt=Climbing routes on Fountain Ledge | The Squid and the Whale - Jeopardy - Double Jeopardy]]
 One of the harder routes on the Ledge.Sustained and a touch exciting.
@@ Line 203: / Line 200: @@
 '''First ascent:'''  J. Smith Feb 2013
-[[Category:Table Mountain]]
 ==='''Fountain Fandango 21'''===

@@ Line 188: / Line 188: @@
 [[Image:FountainFandango.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Fountain Fandango on Fountain Ridge]]
-One of the hardest routes on the Ledge.Sustained and a touch exciting.
+One of the harder routes on the Ledge.Sustained and a touch exciting.
 '''Start:''' Start on the staircase ledge about 5 meters to the right of the arête between Jeopardy and Jacobs ladder.

@@ Line 196: / Line 196: @@
 Scramble up the large layback seam for about 10 meters to a ledge.  Climb up the centre of the overhanging face through a series of small roofs to the Roulette rail.  Plenty of smallish cams are useful to protect this bottom section.  Resisting the temptation to sit on the Roulette ledge, rail right 2 meters and gain the next rail using the vertical crack. From this position, pull straight through the next little roof via difficult moves to establish in some underclings.
 Climb past a peg and move diagonally left past the crux of Jeopardy to 2 more pegs and the Hook rail (the end of Jeopardy). Lace the rail with cams and climb the blunt arête.  Pull straight through the next roof and exit out left onto jugs on the headwall.
 '''Pitch 2:'''
@@ Line 208: / Line 204: @@
 [[Category:Table Mountain]]
 ==='''Fountain Fandango 21'''===

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:55, 27 February 2013
Line 180:		Line 180:

	[[Category:Table Mountain]]		[[Category:Table Mountain]]
		+
		+
		+	==='''The Squid and the Whale (31) *****'''===
		+
		+	[[File:Squid-and-the-Whale.jpg\|350x467px\|thumb\|alt=Climbing routes on Fountain Ledge \| The Squid and the Whale - Jeopardy - Double Jeopardy]]
		+
		+	[[Image:FountainFandango.JPG\|300px\|thumb\|right\|Fountain Fandango on Fountain Ridge]]
		+
		+	One of the hardest routes on the Ledge.Sustained and a touch exciting.
		+
		+	'''Start:''' Start on the staircase ledge about 5 meters to the right of the arête between Jeopardy and Jacobs ladder.
		+
		+	'''Pitch 1 40m (31):'''
		+
		+	Scramble up the large layback seam for about 10 meters to a ledge. Climb up the centre of the overhanging face through a series of small roofs to the Roulette rail. Plenty of smallish cams are useful to protect this bottom section. Resisting the temptation to sit on the Roulette ledge, rail right 2 meters and gain the next rail using the vertical crack. From this position, pull straight through the next little roof via difficult moves to establish in some underclings.
		+	Climb past a peg and move diagonally left past the crux of Jeopardy to 2 more pegs and the Hook rail (the end of Jeopardy). Lace the rail with cams and climb the blunt arête. Pull straight through the next roof and exit out left onto jugs on the headwall.
		+
		+	'''Pitch 2 10m A2:'''
		+
		+	Step up onto the ledge at the start of the Roulette overhanging crack and head up then out left on the very overhanging white wall. Use smallest cams for aiding until reaching the end of the seam. Place a no.4 cam then using micro nuts, RPs and bat hooks, struggle up onto the headwall to free climb up to a stance in the rail.
		+
		+	'''Pitch 2:'''
		+
		+	Figure out a cunning way to get down and to retrieve your gear or join the final pitch of Roulette.
		+
		+	'''First ascent:''' J. Smith Feb 2013
		+
		+	[[Category:Table Mountain]]
		+

	==='''Fountain Fandango 21'''===		==='''Fountain Fandango 21'''===

@@ Line 201: / Line 201: @@
 '''First ascent:'''  Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies 20 February 2009
-==='''Fountain Reach Up 21'''===
+==='''Fountain Reach-Up 21'''===
 '''Route info:'''

@@ Line 213: / Line 213: @@
 '''Start:'''
-The route is situated just right of Fountain Chimney and follows a corner up to a ledge, from the ledge one pulls up into a rail in the roof and rails out right and then up heading towards a notch in another small roof, after this second roof we made a stance and then continued up easily.
+The route is situated just right of Fountain Chimney and follows a corner up to a ledge, from the ledge one pulls up into a rail in the roof and rails out right and then up heading towards a notch in another small roof, after this second roof one can make a stance and then continue up easily.
 '''First ascent:''' Richard Smithers and Brian de Villiers
-'''First free Ascent:''' (Brandon Smith) and Catherine Philips
+'''First free Ascent:''' Brandon Smith and Catherine Philips

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:39, 18 February 2013
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−	==='''Roulette Arête 25,A2'''===	+	==='''Roulette Arête 25, A2'''===


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	'''First ascent:''' Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies 20 February 2009		'''First ascent:''' Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies 20 February 2009
		+
		+	==='''Fountain Reach Up 21'''===
		+
		+	'''Route info:'''
		+
		+	The route is an old aid route done by Richard Smithers and Brian de Villiers in 1970 which has not been freed up until now.
		+
		+	[[Image:Fountain_reach-up.jpg\|300px\|thumb\|right\|Fountain Reach Up on Fountain Ridge]]
		+
		+	The route has three pitches which go at 15, 21 and 10.
		+
		+	'''Start:'''
		+
		+	The route is situated just right of Fountain Chimney and follows a corner up to a ledge, from the ledge one pulls up into a rail in the roof and rails out right and then up heading towards a notch in another small roof, after this second roof we made a stance and then continued up easily.
		+
		+	'''First ascent:''' Richard Smithers and Brian de Villiers
		+
		+	'''First free Ascent:''' (Brandon Smith) and Catherine Philips

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 === '''Africa Edge 21''' ===
@@ Line 68: / Line 42: @@
-==='''Fountain Fandango 21'''===
+=== '''TATWOC 25''' ===
-[[Image:FountainFandango.JPG|300px|thumb|right|Fountain Fandango on Fountain Ridge]]
+'''Start:''' The route is situated on Fountain Ledge and starts 20m below the start of Touch and Go. Scramble up from the path to the first proper rock face 20m below the steep overhanging break of Touch and Go. Walk right along the ledge for 10m to below a scooped undercut face just left of the Dassie Crawl. If you look up at 3m there is a thin under-cling slot that takes small Alien cams for pro. Taller dudes can place these cams by standing on blocks. Up left of the scooped face and left of a blunt arette at about 3.5m one can see a pillar box slot that invites gear placement and a hand hold.
-'''Start:''' The route is situated on Fountain Ridge which is below Fountain Ledge and above Camps Bay. To get to the route either ascend the long ridge from the Pipe Track above Camps Bay at up to grade 16, else abseil in from the Lower Fountain Ledge, else traverse in from Kloof Corner. The prominent feature of the ridge is the enormous roof - visible from Camps Bay beach. The first pitch starts directly below this roof.
+[[Image:TATWOC_with_direct_finish_web_l.png|200px|thumb|right|'''TATWOC 25+ and Africa Edge 21 and Touch and Go 19''']]
-'''Pitch 1 15m 18:'''
+'''Pitch 1 20m 23:'''
-From a ledge directly below the huge roof move up the obvious break in the middle of the wall. Head up and slightly left to reach a small stance a couple of metres below the roof.
+Step up onto the scooped face and tenuously – if you are short reach round to the pillar box slot. Place good small cams in the horizontal slot just to the left. Move up on thin holds to easier ground. Climb straight up to a ledge below the overhang. Lean back and see the fixed nut up and to the left.
-'''Pitch 2 35m 21:'''
+'''Pitch 2 20m  23:'''
-Head left and up to reach the rail at the roof. Move left to the notch that breaks through the overhang. Using good rails hang out and move up to a difficult flaring hand-jam slot. Move a couple of metres up the wall then start heading up diagonally to the right on rails and small holds. Head for the corner up on the right. Use a crack in the right of the corner to reach a small platform. Head up to a ledge.
+Move up to the higher, second rail above, and the traverse left 2m to below the fixed nut. Move up past the nut and then to easier ground that is a little run-out and scary but quite safe. Continue to the ledge
-'''Pitch 3 35m 16:'''
+'''Pitch 4 25m 25:'''
-Head left and up to reach Lower Fountain Ledge.
+Start off the right edge of the Touch and Go Ledge step up to a good rail left of “Farewell to Arms” last pitch.  Clip the fixed nut and test it if you dare and if it is still there. Climb to the rail under the overhang on thin crimps. Move left 4m to where the overhang peters out and climb up on brittle feeling flakes to the next rail. Rail back right to the fixed nut and pull onto the face above and continue straight up to the jumbo ledge. If the nut has been removed then pull onto the face level with the far left end of the Touch and Go ledge.  (A more direct version shown in the photograph is in the offing but has yet to be freed at the time of writing.)
-'''First ascent:'''  Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies 20 February 2009
+'''Descent:''' The abseil chains are 5m or so to the left and down 2m on the edge.
@@ Line 124: / Line 121: @@
-==='''Sweet Dreams 22 and Wet Dream 22+'''=== [[Image:Sweet_Dreams_and_Wet_Dreams_topo_compressed.JPG|200px|thumb|right|'''Wet and Sweet Dreams''']]
+==='''Sweet Dreams 22 and Wet Dream 22+'''===
-−
 '''Start:''' The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida (and Sweet Dreams) starts up the clean arete.
@@ Line 183: / Line 180: @@
 [[Category:Table Mountain]]

@@ Line 122: / Line 122: @@
 '''First ascent:'''  Bruce Daniel and Hilton Davies March 2009
 ==='''Sweet Dreams 22 and Wet Dream 22+'''=== [[Image:Sweet_Dreams_and_Wet_Dreams_topo_compressed.JPG|200px|thumb|right|'''Wet and Sweet Dreams''']]
@@ Line 160: / Line 161: @@
 '''First ascent:'''  Charles Edelstein and Robert Breyer 21 July 2010
 [[Category:Table Mountain]]