Revision as of 14:16, 30 May 2011

+/-25 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

Season

Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

Rock

Sandstone

Gear

Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.

The climbing

This Crag features powerful, short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

Getting there

Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.

East side: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.
West side: On the Clovelly the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

Topos / Routes

Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).

The Boatyard

Spinning Jenny 20/6b FA Julian Fisher
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).

Dockside

Left Sector

1. Piracy 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis

2. Stowaway 20/6b FA Ross Suter.
Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!

3. Wide Ride 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelkis

Right Sector

1. Talamasca 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis

2. Blood and Gold 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelkis and partner.

3. Lil Fishees 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart

4. Dolphin 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus

5. Sushi 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus

6. Import Tax 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelkis

Neptunes Cove

Left Sector

This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.

1. Hang Thang 20/6b FA Greg Hart

2. Cling Thing 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans

3. Kill Bill 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart

Right Sector

1. Unnamed 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.

The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of the Neptunes Cove cave and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.

2. Arete 18

3. Flake right of Arete 19

4. Thin grey face in middle 23

5. Right edge of thin face 21

6. Juggy line right of thin face 16

Espionage 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelkis, The next bolted line right.

The Needle 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage.

Oyster Box

Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).

1. Oyster 16/5c FA Ross Suter

2. Lurchin' Urchin 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.

2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.

3. Open Project 8b/c?

4. Catfish Rising 22/6c FA Tony Lourens

5. Heartbreak 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelkis

6. Pocket Rocket 26/7b FA Jason Orton

7. The Art of War 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelkis

1. Sinbad 18/6a FA Ross Suter

Mermaid Wall

This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.

1. Jack in the Green 22/6c FA Beth Higgins

2. Songs from the Wood 18/6a FA Tony Lourens

3. City Rockers 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.

4. Mermaid 16/5c FA Ross Suter

Route updates

The lower tier crags. Topos coming soon!

Blackbeards Cave

• Dark Angel (30)
  

Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

• Xses (24)
  

Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.

• Unnamed (25/26)
  

Right of Dickless Ticks (#27 in book).
FA Marijus Smigelskis.