Lion's Head - Revision history

Lenny: /* Mean Eyed Pussy-Cat (22)***** */

2013-04-16T14:10:04Z

Mean Eyed Pussy-Cat (22)*****

Lenny: /* Geo-Cache Sector */

2013-04-16T14:09:45Z

Geo-Cache Sector

Q20: /* New Routes */

2013-03-13T09:19:02Z

New Routes

Q20: /* New Routes */

2013-02-07T16:04:55Z

New Routes

Mokganjetsi at 15:43, 5 February 2013

2013-02-05T15:43:22Z

Mokganjetsi at 15:35, 5 February 2013

2013-02-05T15:35:37Z

Q20 at 20:08, 7 January 2013

2013-01-07T20:08:24Z

Q20: /* New Routes */

2013-01-07T19:58:09Z

New Routes

Warren g: /* The Man Comes Around (20) */

2012-11-12T14:48:53Z

The Man Comes Around (20)

Warren g: /* Geo-Cache Sector */

2012-11-12T11:37:56Z

Geo-Cache Sector

@@ Line 312: / Line 312: @@
 FA W. Gans & A. Hills 11/11/11
-==== Mean Eyed Pussy-Cat (22)***** ====
+==== Mean Eyed Pussy-Cat (22) ***** ====
 This route is a variation of Mean Eyed Cat and follows the line under the second roof towards the right (instead of simply exiting on the left and straight up). It offers superb and sustained roof climbing with great exposure as the slab used for feet turns vertical and drops away towards the end of the roof. The cam placings in the roof split offers good protection; exit the roof on good side-pull flakes and climb up and slightly right to a biggish head of rock over which slings can be hung for anchors. There are also several smaller placings just below the head which can be used for protection or as part of the anchor set-up.

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:09, 16 April 2013
Line 311:		Line 311:

	FA W. Gans & A. Hills 11/11/11		FA W. Gans & A. Hills 11/11/11
		+
		+	==== Mean Eyed Pussy-Cat (22)***** ====
		+
		+	This route is a variation of Mean Eyed Cat and follows the line under the second roof towards the right (instead of simply exiting on the left and straight up). It offers superb and sustained roof climbing with great exposure as the slab used for feet turns vertical and drops away towards the end of the roof. The cam placings in the roof split offers good protection; exit the roof on good side-pull flakes and climb up and slightly right to a biggish head of rock over which slings can be hung for anchors. There are also several smaller placings just below the head which can be used for protection or as part of the anchor set-up.
		+
		+	FA: L. Flemming 14/04/2013

	==== Cash's King (27) ====		==== Cash's King (27) ====

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:19, 13 March 2013
Line 83:		Line 83:

	For the following 3 routes near ''Stuffed Lion'', decend by walking left (facing the cliff) and scramble down to the anchors above ''Bantry Crag''.		For the following 3 routes near ''Stuffed Lion'', decend by walking left (facing the cliff) and scramble down to the anchors above ''Bantry Crag''.
		+
		+	[[File:bantryarea.jpg\|450px\|thumb\|centre\| G: Greyscaling, SL: Stuffed Lion, FF: Fin Fiesta, JC: Jet Cygnet]]

	==== Greyscaling (18) *** ====		==== Greyscaling (18) *** ====

@@ Line 131: / Line 131: @@
 Descent: Scramble off to the right, either to the tree abseil or continue further to the main path.
-==== Mane Course (26) ****====
+==== Mane Course (25) **** ====
-Single pitch located on the Gendarme level vegetated band, near the start of ''Cat's Pyjamas''.  <br>
+Excellent single pitch located on the Gendarme level vegetated band, near the start of ''Cat's Pyjamas''. Almost 5 star. <br>
-Start up a short crack and then a short face to first roof - pull through (tricky) to a rest below the second roof. Hard moves at the lip lead leftward to a rail and then up to a small ledge with a bush. Up easily to big ledge. <br> Concensus grading needed. <br>
+Start up a short crack and then a short face to first roof - pull through (tricky) to a rest below the second roof. Hard moves at the lip lead leftward to a rail and then up to a small ledge with a bush. Up easily to big ledge. <br>
 FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10
-==== Pride Breaker (25) *** ====
+==== Pride Breaker (24) *** ====
 Takes the steep crack to the right of ''Mane Course''.  <br>
-Starting on some large boulders, follow the crack through a tricky, thin corner to the roof. Gain the next good hand rail and tackle the humbling crack to the big roof. Traverse a metre right and up into a recess. Step back left and follow a vague arete easily to the big ledge. <br> Concensus grading needed .<br>
+Starting on some large boulders, follow the crack through a tricky, thin corner to the roof. Gain the next good hand rail and tackle the humbling crack to the big roof. Traverse a metre right and up into a recess. Step back left and follow a vague arete easily to the big ledge. <br>
 FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11
@@ Line 154: / Line 154: @@
 [[Image:mane.jpg|400px]]<br>
-From left: ''Mane Course'' (26), ''Pride Breaker'' (25) and ''Godsend'' (23). <br>
+From left: ''Mane Course'' (25), ''Pride Breaker'' (24) and ''Godsend'' (23). <br>
 Either walk off to the right or abseil from tree anchor to the left.

@@ Line 97: / Line 97: @@
 P2, 15m (15). Climb the crack system in the corner, near the top head left to a wide ledge. <br>
 FA: R.Halsey & W. Gans 17/12/2012<br>
 ==== Asteroid (23) **** ====
@@ Line 106: / Line 102: @@
 Single pitch variation right of the Gendarme. Climb ''Astronaut'' P1 to the ledge but rather than heading left up the corner crack, blast straight up the steep face above with a powerful crux dead point. At the bush on the next little ledge step ~1m left and then straight up to the bolted abseil anchor. <br>
 FA: R.Halsey & J. Hajos 21/02/2011<br>
 ==== Lion Sedge (21) ***====

@@ Line 326: / Line 326: @@
 ''Cash Connection'' (19) and ''Grit-Slide'' (24R) <br>.
-== ====White Face Sector====
+=== White Face Sector ===
-----
+Start on the rock band where the upper pitches of ''White Face'' are found.
+==== Duly Noted, (17) ====
-'''Duly Noted, (17)'''
+Pitch 1: 15m, 17: 3m right of ''Wailing Wall'' P2 and 2m left of the main fault up ''White Face'' is a break running straight to a roof. Take the break before stepping left 1.5m further under the roof and ascending over a triangular crack in the roof. After 4m of easy ground stance on a comfortable ledge.
-Pitch 1: 15m, 17: 3m right of Wailing wall  and 2m left of the main fault up White Face is a break running straight to a roof. Take the break before stepping left 1.5m further under the roof and ascending over a triangular crack in the roof. After 4m of easy ground stance on a comfortable ledge.
+Pitch 2: 25m, 15: start on a right facing flake and proceed up, climbing an open book above a large cubby which is part of ''Wailing Wall''. Continue straight up until being greeted at the top is a small tree.
-Pitch 2: 25m, 15: start on a right facing flake and proceed up, climbing an open book above a large cubby which is part of Wailing Wall. continue straight up until being greeted at the top is a small tree.
 The route was opened as a single, long pitch.
 FA: W Gans, 14/10/2012

@@ Line 82: / Line 82: @@
 === Clifton Sector ===
-==== Asteroid (23)====
+For the following 3 routes near ''Stuffed Lion'', decend by walking left (facing the cliff) and scramble down to the anchors above ''Bantry Crag''.
 Single pitch variation right of the Gendarme. Climb ''Astronaut'' P1 to the ledge but rather than heading left up the corner crack, blast straight up the steep face above with a powerful crux dead point. At the bush on the next little ledge step ~1m left and then straight up to the bolted abseil anchor. <br>
 FA: R.Halsey & J. Hajos 21/02/2011<br>
-==== Lion Sedge (21)====
+==== Lion Sedge (21) ***====
 Single pitch just right of ''Blueberry Hill''. Start up a short face directly below a steep crack, which leads to a prominent sharp arete. Pull up onto the arete and climb directly to a ledge. <br>
 FA: R. Halsey 07/10/11
-==== Simbarama (22) ====
+==== Simbarama (22) ***** ====
 Single pitch just right of ''Simba Serendipity'' P2 (which follows the line to the left of the roof). Climb straight up to the middle on the long thin overhang (can stand on a ledge to the right). Pull through roof to thin rail (aliens useful) and up excellent crack. Climb the central of three columns stemming left at one stage to reach a rail. <br>
 FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10
-==== Feel Ion (23) ====
+==== Feel Ion (23) *** ====
 Start 5m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Straight up to small ledge. Move right into short, bottomless corner (tricky) and then straight up face and steep prow to ledge. Small cam useful for the crux. <br>
 FA: R. Halsey 18/05/11
-==== Night Puff (21) ====
+==== Night Puff (21) *** ====
 Start 3m left of ''Juggernaut'' P2. Use a short, undercut face to gain the rail. Tend left and up through a steep blocky section to below a roof. Pull straight through the roof just right of the crack (sneaky undercling) to a left leaning ramp and short open book above. Easy ground up to ledge. <br>
@@ Line 111: / Line 127: @@
 Descent: Scramble off to the right, either to the tree abseil or continue further to the main path.
-==== Mane Course (26)====
+==== Mane Course (26) ****====
 Single pitch located on the Gendarme level vegetated band, near the start of ''Cat's Pyjamas''.  <br>
@@ Line 118: / Line 134: @@
 FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10
-==== Pride Breaker (25) ====
+==== Pride Breaker (25) *** ====
 Takes the steep crack to the right of ''Mane Course''.  <br>
@@ Line 125: / Line 141: @@
 FA: R. Halsey 21/11/11
-==== Godsend (23) ====
+==== Godsend (23) *** ====
 The project listed in the guide book on pg 51. <br>
@@ Line 191: / Line 207: @@
 FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, Jan Fischer, 24/11/2011
-==== 11A - Skink Inc. (18) ====
+==== 11A - Skink Inc. (18) ** ====
 Climb a direct line up the face (steep start) to the right of ''Rodney''. <br>
 FA: R. Halsey 02/02/2012
@@ Line 214: / Line 230: @@
 FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, August 2011
-==== 15a - Creekers (15) ====
+==== 15a - Creekers (15) ** ====
 From the block left of the start of ''The Craving'', pull onto and straight up the clean, white face to the left of the crack on ''The Craving''. <br>
 FA: R. Halsey 02/02/2012
@@ Line 248: / Line 264: @@
 <br>FA: Guy Paterson-Jones, 6 April 2011
-==== Fly Bye (19) ====
+==== Fly Bye (19) *** ====
 Climb a direct line up the face directly between ''Come take a Trip in My Air-Ship'' and ''Drive on''. <br>
 FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett 25/11/2011
@@ Line 269: / Line 285: @@
 FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009
-==== Swindled Swoon (22) ====
+==== Swindled Swoon (22) *** ====
 Start halfway between  ''Drive on'' and ''Egg-Sucking Dog''. Climb straight up to a long horizontal undercling and then straight though the slight roof to a pocket on the face. Pull up, and tend slightly left, staying just left of the crack at the top.
@@ Line 278: / Line 294: @@
 ''Swindled Swoon'' (22) <br>
-==== Bender Blender (22)====
+==== Bender Blender (22) **** ====
 The arête right of ''Junkie and Juicehead''. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top. <br>
 FA: R.Halsey  19/08/2011<br><br>
@@ Line 296: / Line 312: @@
 FA: W. Gans 09/06/2012 <br>
-==== Cash Connection (19) ====
+==== Cash Connection (19) **** ====
 Start a metre left of ''Orphan of the Road'' and climb up to a deep, horizontal slot. Tend slightly left toward the steep, reddish rock higher up, and then straight up. <br>
 FA: R.Halsey  26/08/2011<br>
-==== Grit-Slide (24R) ====
+==== Grit-Slide (24R) *** ====
 Climbs the fairly blank, orange wall right of ''Orphan of the Road''. Start near the centre of the face, pull up to a rail and traverse 1m left. Follow a narrow crack to a pocket, traverse right on crimps and then up to the vague crack above. <br>

@@ Line 288: / Line 288: @@
 The route starts on a face 2m right of "Luther Played The Boogy", and heads slightly right to a fault in an over lap. Ascend left facing crack before dancing right under the roof to big holds then up to the friendliest natural anchor one could ask for.
-FA W. Gans 11/11/11
+FA W. Gans & A. Hills 11/11/11
 ==== Cash's King (27) ====

@@ Line 284: / Line 284: @@
 [[Image:bender.jpg|200px]]<br>
 ''Bender Blender'' (22) <br>.
 ==== Cash's King (27) ====
@@ Line 304: / Line 309: @@
 [[Image:gritsliderd.jpg|250px]]<br>
 ''Cash Connection'' (19) and ''Grit-Slide'' (24R) <br>.
 == ====White Face Sector====