Llandudno is best known for it short desperate slab climbing above dodgy bolts from the 80's. But more recently it is being frequented by a new generation of climbers looking for new urban bouldering areas. If nothing else it's a sweet spot to chill with your buddies after a good training session and watch the sun go down over the sea.
All year round
Very rough granite that contains large crystals which are used as holds
Sport climbing: Short rope and not many draws but BIG balls! Bouldering: A crashpad, loads of chalk and super skin!
People have been climbing on the short hard slabs on the right of the beach for ages but in the last few years there been little to no action as the bolts have become increasingly fragile. With the popularity of bouldering Llundudnio too has been seeing ever increasing traffic from people rediscovering the surprisingly featured rock. There are loads of quality problems hidden amongst the jumbled boulders on both side of the beach just waiting...
The sport climbing is on near vertical slab with rough crystals as holds. It is highly technical and quite hard for the grade as many of the origanal holds have come off over the years. The bolts are old and fragile and you DO risk serious injury if they break. Toproping is a popular alternative or a means to gauge the route before it is attempted on lead. There is a large variety of boulder problems to choose from but most require either brass balls or short term memory.
From Cape Town, take the Atlanic coast road past Camps Bay towards Hout Bay. Turn into Llandudno before Hout Bay.
Food and accommodation
Sundowners at the famous La Med is always an option after a day at Llundudno!
The previous edition of Western Cape Crags written by Guy Holwill contains most of the routes. As for the boulders, not much is known about who has done what over the year but Stewart Noy's Peninsula Bouldering Guide will contain most of the established problems.
Excellent beach to swim at. Mind the dumping waves and stay away from the surfers. Challenge: prove you're a hard man and keep your head underwater for 10 seconds.