Lower Buttresses - Revision history

Douw at 20:11, 20 February 2013

2013-02-20T20:11:22Z

Malcolmg: /* Delhi Belly 22 */

2013-02-14T16:36:31Z

Delhi Belly 22

Malcolmg at 13:17, 14 February 2013

2013-02-14T13:17:55Z

Malcolmg at 13:13, 14 February 2013

2013-02-14T13:13:05Z

Douw at 20:24, 28 January 2013

2013-01-28T20:24:56Z

Q20 at 15:26, 28 January 2013

2013-01-28T15:26:46Z

Lelikegogga at 14:50, 28 January 2013

2013-01-28T14:50:58Z

Douw at 13:40, 16 January 2013

2013-01-16T13:40:36Z

Douw at 21:20, 21 August 2012

2012-08-21T21:20:21Z

Hilton at 17:00, 4 July 2012

2012-07-04T17:00:23Z

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-== Delhi Belly 22 ==
+==='''A Sudden Loss Of Cabin Pressure 27'''===
-−
-−
-A new route that is climbs an obvious line on Venster buttress between Bombay Chicken & Quacks.
-Note: Small cams are necessary!
-−
-Start: Two meters to the right of Quacks is a blunt Arête undercut by a small roof on the right.
-−
-'''Pitch 1: 20m 22.'''
-−
-Using the small under cling below the roof pull up onto the sloping holds above. Precariously pop up into the shallow corner system & rail above (crux.)  Climb directly up to under the roof above. (Bombay Duck climbs 1m left of the roof) Pull through the roof and into the open book above (peg) and climb directly up to stance on some small ledges, a few meters above.
-Alternative: 23m 20. Climb the first 8m of Bombay duck and then move up and climb into the open book corner above. Traverse left under the roof and then climb up to the stance above. (This could be Bombay Chicken but not sure.)
-−
-'''Pitch 2: 18m 21'''.
-−
-Follow the ramp up and left to below an undercut, stepped corner. Climb the layback crack up onto the bulging recess (crux.) Climb this to the large ledge above. This stance is shared with Bombay Duck and India Chicken.
-−
-'''Pitch 3: 16m 20.'''
-−
-From the large ledge start as you would for the final pitch of Bombay Duck. Move diagonally up right into the large rail above. Rail right and pull through the roof and up into the recess above. Climb up on the right of the arête then traverse right towards the abseil anchors. (Beware of large loose block at the abseil anchors.)
-−
-FA: Malcolm Gowans, Bryant Roux & Cormac Tooze. December 2012.
-−
-[[File:Delhi Belly.jpg]]
-−
-----
-−
-−
-==='''A Sudden Loss Of Cabin Pressure 27/28'''===
 Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain
 Starts on the same ledge as for Manoeuvres By Moonlight (MBM) about 10m left of that route and climbs up trending slightly rightwards towards the prominent, large, overhanging nose above.
-'''Pitch 1 12m 27/28:'''
+'''Pitch 1 12m 27:'''
 Start just right of a large boulder with a jagged top edge. Use a flake on the wall to get to the roof, step left, and reach back into the rail in the roof behind you. Move out along the rail then reach right to the lip of the roof below an open book (fixed nut). Climb to the rail above and move right across the open book to a jam. Pull straight up onto the face and open book above. Stance above this at a threaded sling.
@@ Line 118: / Line 90: @@
 [[File:Lefthall-1.JPG|450px]]
 [[File:Lefthall-2.JPG|450px]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:36, 14 February 2013
Line 24:		Line 24:

	[[File:Delhi Belly.jpg]]		[[File:Delhi Belly.jpg]]
		+
	----		----

@@ Line 23: / Line 23: @@
 FA: Malcolm Gowans, Bryant Roux & Cormac Tooze. December 2012.
-[[File:Example.jpg]]
+[[File:Delhi Belly.jpg]]
 ----

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:13, 14 February 2013
Line 1:		Line 1:
		+
		+	== Delhi Belly 22 ==
		+
		+
		+	A new route that is climbs an obvious line on Venster buttress between Bombay Chicken & Quacks.
		+	Note: Small cams are necessary!
		+
		+	Start: Two meters to the right of Quacks is a blunt Arête undercut by a small roof on the right.
		+
		+	'''Pitch 1: 20m 22.'''
		+
		+	Using the small under cling below the roof pull up onto the sloping holds above. Precariously pop up into the shallow corner system & rail above (crux.) Climb directly up to under the roof above. (Bombay Duck climbs 1m left of the roof) Pull through the roof and into the open book above (peg) and climb directly up to stance on some small ledges, a few meters above.
		+	Alternative: 23m 20. Climb the first 8m of Bombay duck and then move up and climb into the open book corner above. Traverse left under the roof and then climb up to the stance above. (This could be Bombay Chicken but not sure.)
		+
		+	'''Pitch 2: 18m 21'''.
		+
		+	Follow the ramp up and left to below an undercut, stepped corner. Climb the layback crack up onto the bulging recess (crux.) Climb this to the large ledge above. This stance is shared with Bombay Duck and India Chicken.
		+
		+	'''Pitch 3: 16m 20.'''
		+
		+	From the large ledge start as you would for the final pitch of Bombay Duck. Move diagonally up right into the large rail above. Rail right and pull through the roof and up into the recess above. Climb up on the right of the arête then traverse right towards the abseil anchors. (Beware of large loose block at the abseil anchors.)
		+
		+	FA: Malcolm Gowans, Bryant Roux & Cormac Tooze. December 2012.
		+
		+	[[File:Example.jpg]]
		+	----
		+
		+
	==='''A Sudden Loss Of Cabin Pressure 27/28'''===		==='''A Sudden Loss Of Cabin Pressure 27/28'''===
	Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain		Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:24, 28 January 2013
Line 62:		Line 62:


−	[[File:Arrow.jpg\|frame\|center\|alt=Arrow Buttress, Manoeuvres By Moonlight area.\|Arrow Buttress, Manoeuvres By Moonlight area.<br>Blue = A Sudden Loss Of Cabin Pressure<br>Green = Moonlight Direct]]	+	[[File:Arrow.jpg\|frame\|center\|alt=Arrow Buttress, Manoeuvres By Moonlight area.\|Arrow Buttress, Manoeuvres By Moonlight area.<br>Blue = A Sudden Loss Of Cabin Pressure<br>Red = Direct Pressure<br>Green = Moonlight Direct]]

@@ Line 87: / Line 87: @@
 Simon Larsen & Ant Hall 2005
-[[File:Lefthall-1.JPG]]
+[[File:Lefthall-1.JPG|450px]]
-[[File:Lefthall-2.JPG]]
+[[File:Lefthall-2.JPG|450px]]
@@ Line 107: / Line 107: @@
 Walk off to the right to the India-Venster trail.
-'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Jonathan Hajos,  26 Mar 2011
+'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Jonathan Hajos,  26 Mar 2011, '''FFA''': Richard Halsey and Jimbo Smith, 9 Feb 2012
-'''FFA''': Richard Halsey and Jimbo Smith, 9 Feb 2012
+[[File:funfactory.jpg|300px]]
 [[Category:Table Mountain]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:50, 28 January 2013
Line 25:		Line 25:

	'''FA:''' Mark Seuring and Douw Steyn (2012)		'''FA:''' Mark Seuring and Douw Steyn (2012)
		+
		+	==='''Direct Pressure 28/29'''===
		+	An obvious direct version to the first pitch of Cabin Pressure:
		+	Start as for Cabin Pressure and climb straight up through the roof and over the slopy shelf joining Cabin Pressure again at the higher rail.
		+
		+	A short boulder problem with good gear and clean falls. Consensus grading needed. I think it's about the same or maybe a grade harder than Cabin Pressure's 1st pitch (definitely harder moves, but shorter and less fiddly with gear).
		+
		+	'''FA:''' Phlip Olivier (26 Jan 2013)

	==='''Moonlight Direct 23'''===		==='''Moonlight Direct 23'''===

@@ Line 19: / Line 19: @@
 '''FFA''': Richard Halsey and Jimbo Smith, 9 Feb 2012
 <br>
 ==='''Moonlight Direct 23'''===

@@ Line 20: / Line 20: @@
 <br>
-==='''Moonlight Direct 24'''===
+==='''Moonlight Direct 23'''===
 Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain
@@ Line 31: / Line 31: @@
 Climb up the front of the blocky pinnacle to its flat top. Walk across to the face and head up smooth rock to reach a big ledge with huge overhanging roof. Belay 6m to the left where a seam leads up to the roof that is 3 or 4m above the ground.
-'''Pitch 2 10m 23:'''
+'''Pitch 2 10m 22:'''
 A handrail runs rightwards underneath the roof and ends in a break through the overhang on the right. Ease up the face at the back then rail out right using half a dozen cams to prevent ground fall potential. The rail is unrelenting with poor foot placements. At the break head up and slightly right on steep rock to reach a small ledge with a good rail on the left for making a hanging stance. It is necessary to keep the pitch short to prevent a possible ground fall for the second.
-'''Pitch 3 30m 24:'''
+'''Pitch 3 30m 23:'''
 Head directly up to the break in the first roof above. Move up and right through the break to reach a disappointing rail below the Manoeuvres by Moonlight rail. Continue up to Manoeuvres by Moonlight (excellent sharp rail) and trending right go through a few more overlaps. Pull through on small holds to get established on the vertical wall above. Head up and slightly left to reach a disappointing rail again. Overcome the bulge to get onto easy ground leading up to a good ledge below the next big roof.
-'''Pitch 4 20m 24:'''
+'''Pitch 4 20m 22:'''
 Off to the right is a huge overhanging nose that protrudes far out from the buttress. Head off to the right for 3 or 4 metres to reach a gully. Move up into the gully for 2m then using a decent rail head out right over space. Place two good large cams at the end of the rail! Using small edges, a small vertical fingertips lock and tiny flakes move up the overhanging wall to eventually reach a good rail to place gear (Need a strong-head day). Proceed directly up easy ground, about grade 19, to top out on the nose at a good ledge with a small tree.