Makapansgat - Revision history

Andrewp: /* ASPECT */

2010-12-14T17:37:50Z

ASPECT

Andrewp: /* ROUTES */

2010-12-14T17:31:21Z

ROUTES

Hector at 15:43, 6 December 2010

2010-12-06T15:43:58Z

Hector at 11:15, 6 December 2010

2010-12-06T11:15:14Z

Hector at 11:12, 6 December 2010

2010-12-06T11:12:34Z

Hector at 11:00, 2 December 2010

2010-12-02T11:00:57Z

Hector at 11:12, 30 November 2010

2010-11-30T11:12:55Z

Hector at 11:18, 29 November 2010

2010-11-29T11:18:27Z

Hector at 11:14, 29 November 2010

2010-11-29T11:14:51Z

Hector at 11:13, 29 November 2010

2010-11-29T11:13:41Z

@@ Line 368: / Line 368: @@
 ===ASPECT===
 Most climbs here face west to south west. Expect afternoon sun, ezpecially in mid-summer. The short routes out from the nek face in all directions.
 '''ENTROPY 22A0 **** [N]'''
@@ Line 431: / Line 440: @@
 . 38m, 11 (E3) Climb smooth, steep face above using thin crack to the tree at 6m. Move right and up through overhang then back to the crack line. Climb straight up face (left side of buttress) to chimney which is undercut to start, with overhangs on the right. Climb corner on the left edge of the buttress to the top.
 FA: D. Peters, J. Newington and L. Mallen, 1974-07-28.
 ==HOMELESS ROUTES==

@@ Line 190: / Line 190: @@
 ===ROUTES===
 '''ON EDGE 16 *** [N]'''
@@ Line 244: / Line 252: @@
-'''LONG DROP 17 [N]'''
+'''LONG DROP 17 ** [N]'''
 Start in the obvious break 20m left of the twin cracks.
 . 40m 15 (F5) Climb break to ledge (35m) with 2 pegs (dubious). Move right around the corner to ledge with peg belay.

@@ Line 21: / Line 21: @@
 =CAMPING=
 Camping is right on the lip of the cliffs. There are many flat spots here in a superb position. Apparently there is also an old campsite near the river in the forest below the crags. This sounds like an unnecessary mission.
 =WATER=
@@ Line 184: / Line 187: @@
 ===ASPECT===
-These climbs face north and therefore get a lot of sun. Look out for wasps.
+These climbs face north but some routes get shade in the afternoon in summer because of the proximity of the crag to the Tropic of Capricorn. Look out for wasps.
 ===ROUTES===
@@ Line 257: / Line 260: @@
 ===ASPECT===
-These climbs face north and therefore get a lot of sun. Look out for wasps.
+These climbs face north but some routes get shade in the afternoon in summer because of the proximity of the crag to the Tropic of Capricorn. Look out for wasps.
 ===ROUTES===
@@ Line 300: / Line 303: @@
 ===ASPECT===
-These climbs face east to south east. Expect morning sun.
+These climbs face west to south west. Expect afternoon sun.
 '''BUTCHER’S REVENGE 23 **** [N, X]'''
@@ Line 356: / Line 359: @@
 ===ASPECT===
-Most climbs here face east, but the short routes out from the nek face in all directions.
+Most climbs here face west to south west. Expect afternoon sun, ezpecially in mid-summer. The short routes out from the nek face in all directions.
 '''ENTROPY 22A0 **** [N]'''

@@ Line 50: / Line 50: @@
 Here's a map of this area showing some of the older routes:
 [[File:Gulley area map.jpg]]
 '''UP YOURS 15 [N]'''
@@ Line 221: / Line 211: @@
-??? 19X [N] ****
+'''RISKY BUSINESS 19X [N] ****'''
 Start just to the right of the right hand Twin Crack. The route ascends the rounded buttress to the right of the crack. It follows a featured open book for the first half, then continues up the steep prow above.
-. 60m 17X Climb up on a block on the left, then swing right to gain the open book. Climb the book to a ledge (up to here the route is shared with ZUNGLEBLAT). Gear is good up to here. Continue straight up then move right to a pod for two marginal cams (0.75 camalot and red Alien). Run it out on steep jugs for 15m to a welcome ledge. Scramble up above this to the base of the obvious corner.
+. 60m 17X (F3) Climb up on a block on the left, then swing right to gain the open book. Climb the book to a ledge (up to here the route is shared with ZUNGLEBLAT). Gear is good up to here. Continue straight up then move right to a pod for two marginal cams (0.75 camalot and red Alien). Run it out on steep jugs for 15m to a welcome ledge. Scramble up above this to the base of the obvious corner.
-. 15m 19 As for AUSTRALUPITECUS ROBUSTUS, climb the corner to above the loose chock stone. Instead of traversing left at the top of the corner, pull through the small roof and continue up to the top.
+. 15m 19 (G1) As for AUSTRALUPITECUS ROBUSTUS, climb the corner to above the loose chock stone. Instead of traversing left at the top of the corner, pull through the small roof and continue up to the top.
 Note: This is a very serious route. A fall on the second half of the first pitch would be disastrous.
 FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze 2010-12-05.

@@ Line 173: / Line 173: @@
 . 40m 13 (F1) Climb the face left of the recess, avoiding the cacti higher up. Move diagonally left to the middle of the face. The final steep section s bypassed by moving slightly left.
 FA: Wayne Coetzee, Darryl Margetts, H. Spenser Wilson, P. Zaal, C. Spencer Wilson and party, 1987.
@@ Line 197: / Line 207: @@
-'''AUSTRALUPITECUS ROBUSTUS 19 [N]'''
+'''AUSTRALUPITECUS ROBUSTUS 19 **** [N]'''
-When entering the climbing area from the right, low krantzes are passed at first. Walk past a rock pinnacle until reaching the first very high faces. The climb starts 15m to the left of a gulley which becomes a chimney higher up, and about 20m to the right of an impressive chimney which overhangs at the top and goes initially up a slightly overhanging recessed corner.
+When entering the climbing area from the right, low krantzes are passed at first. Walk past a rock pinnacle then under a hanging boulder stack until reaching the first very high faces. The climb starts 15m to the left of a gulley which becomes a chimney higher up, and about 20m to the right of an impressive chimney which overhangs at the top and goes initially up a slightly overhanging recessed corner. The aim is to climb a long, shallow and featured open book, just left of the arête of the buttress.
-. 20m 19 (G1) Climb a smallish pinnacle at the face then traverse 2m to the right. Climb up then move diagonally left. Make a delicate move to the left to a detached boulder. Climb up and mantelshelf onto a small ledge.
+. 40m 18 (F3) Climb a smallish pinnacle at the face then traverse 2m to the right. Climb up then move diagonally left. Make a delicate move to the left to a detached boulder. Climb up into the featured open book and follow this to where it gets steep and hard. Step right to a small ledge just right of the arete.
-. 25m 17 (F3) From the left side climb up on the ridge to the level of the first overhang. Move to the left and climb a steep recessed crack into a small niche and below a small overhang. Climb to the right around a corner and up to a comfortable stance.
+. 40m 19 (G1) Move up and right to get on top of a large flake. Move delicately left then pull up left onto a face. Climb up then slightly left. Scramble up to the base of a big reddish open book. Climb the open book until standing on a small, loose chockstone. Swing across the smooth face to the left to the corner of the ridge. Climb to the top.
-. 35m 17 (F3) Traverse right at the level of the stance around the corner. Climb up to the top of a flake. Move delicately left then pull up left onto a face. Climb up then slightly left. Continue to the base of a big reddish open book.
-. 20m 19 (G1) Climb the open book until standing on a small, loose chockstone. Swing across the smooth face to the left to the corner of the ridge. Climb to the top.
 FA: R. Eastman and E. Haber, 1981-01-25.
@@ Line 211: / Line 219: @@
 . 30m 19 (G1) Continue up the crack using the left-hand face. At one point traverse slightly left around a protruding block. Continue up crack to the overhang. Below the overhang traverse left on broken rock to a stance. Scramble to the top.
 FA: L. Chambers and P. Douglas, 1982-08-14.
@@ Line 254: / Line 270: @@
 ===ROUTES===
 '''DICKIEPOOH 17 * [N] - DO NOT DO THIS ROUTE BETWEEN MARCH AND SEPTEMBER TO AVOID DISTURBING BLACK EAGLE CHICKS!'''

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:00, 2 December 2010
Line 324:		Line 324:

	The steep walls to the right of the pinnacle are split at mid-height by Suicide Ledge, so named because it is littered with carcasses from the eagle’s nest above its right hand end (this is about 20m right of ENTROPY’s top pitch). The rock near the nest is choss, so there are two reasons not to climb here.		The steep walls to the right of the pinnacle are split at mid-height by Suicide Ledge, so named because it is littered with carcasses from the eagle’s nest above its right hand end (this is about 20m right of ENTROPY’s top pitch). The rock near the nest is choss, so there are two reasons not to climb here.
		+
		+	[[File:Jackal Pinnacle Area.jpg]]
		+
		+	[[File:Jackal Pinnacle Detail.jpg]]

	===HEIGHT===		===HEIGHT===

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:12, 30 November 2010
Line 316:		Line 316:
	1. The top pitch was likely “re-opened” as BALLADE OF ALOES by Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers and M. Townsend in 1988.		1. The top pitch was likely “re-opened” as BALLADE OF ALOES by Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers and M. Townsend in 1988.
	FA: H.P. Bakker, J. Brown and Paul Schlotfeldt, 1983-09.		FA: H.P. Bakker, J. Brown and Paul Schlotfeldt, 1983-09.
		+
		+	==JACKAL PINNACLE AREA==
		+	Standing in the campsite and looking across to the other side one can see a deep gulley/chimney to the right of a prominent red and white buttress. The buttress is actually a free-standing pinnacle at its top. There are three places to climb in this area:
		+	1. The front of the buttress
		+	2. The steep walls to the right of the pinnacle (i.e. to the right of the chimney)
		+	3. The walls on either side of the nek between the pinnacle and the mainland
		+
		+	The steep walls to the right of the pinnacle are split at mid-height by Suicide Ledge, so named because it is littered with carcasses from the eagle’s nest above its right hand end (this is about 20m right of ENTROPY’s top pitch). The rock near the nest is choss, so there are two reasons not to climb here.
		+
		+	===HEIGHT===
		+	20 to 60m.
		+
		+	===ACCESS===
		+	'''Descent to the base of the routes:'''
		+	1., 2. For the front of the buttress and the steep walls to the right it is possible to walk in to the base from either the left or right, but this is a real mission. It is better to abseil off a tree at the top of the chimney forming the right hand side of the pinnacle. It is a good idea to set up an equalised anchor here with some gear to supplement the tree. Go under the tree branch half way down, on Suicide Ledge. Its about 50m to the ground.
		+
		+	3. For climbs from the nek, set up an anchor at the top with some gear and ab in.
		+
		+	'''Getting off the top of the pinnacle'''
		+	There is a tree growing up from the nek on the NW corner of the pinnacle. The top branches of the tree brush the top of the pinnacle. Abseil off one of these branches into the nek (they are solid). Climb one of the routes out to get back to the mainland (the CONSTANT GARDENER is the easiest).
		+
		+	===ASPECT===
		+	Most climbs here face east, but the short routes out from the nek face in all directions.
		+
		+	'''ENTROPY 22A0 **** [N]'''
		+	Climbs the steep wall to the right of the pinnacle to Suicide Ledge, then traverses right for 15m to finish up an obvious open book to the top.
		+	1. 25m 20 (G2) Start under the thin finger crack. Climb up to where the jugs end then traverse left to the obvious flake. Up the flake to a crux move up and right to a small ledge. Step right and climb up just to the right of the hanging black in the main crack line. Step back left above the block and move left onto the face. Up the face to a small ledge, then up just right of the gulley/chimney to Suicide Ledge.
		+	2. 25m 22A0 (G3) Walk about 15m right to beneath a corner crack. Climb the crack until the angle eases. Continue up the steep open-book above and make a tricky mantle onto a mossy ledge. Top out.
		+	Notes:
		+	1. Micro’s are useful for this climb, especially the top half of the second pitch. Protection is good.
		+	2. The second pitch was opened with one rest.
		+	FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze and Christie Terrell, 2007-11-03.
		+
		+
		+	'''THE EVOLUTION VARIATION 22 ***** [N]'''
		+	This is a variation to the first pitch of ENTROPY.
		+	1. 25m 22 (G3) Start as for Entropy but continue straight up the finger crack. Higher up step left above the hanging block to rejoin the original Entropy line.
		+	FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze and Christie Terrell, 2007-11-04.
		+
		+
		+	'''THE GRIM REAPER 21 ** [N]'''
		+	Starts from the left end of Suicide Ledge. Directly above Entropy’s bottom pitch there is a vague corner up grey rock, behind the yellowwood tree. This is just right of the gulley/chimney.
		+	1. 25m 21 (G2/G3) Climb the thin grey slab to a vague rest. Step left then up the vague corner to make a desperate mantle onto a mossy ledge. Place a good cam high up on the right (one move above the ledge), step back down and traverse left into the nek. Belay at the massive tree. To top out climb one of the routes out of the nek.
		+	Notes:
		+	1. This climb is poorly protected. In some places don’t even think of falling.
		+	2. Micro’s are essential.
		+	FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze and Christie Terrell, 2007-11-04.
		+
		+
		+	'''THE CONSTANT GARDENER 17 ** [N]'''
		+	This climb provides a route out of the nek to the mainland. Start in the NW corner of the nek.
		+	1. 15m, 17 (F3) Climb the corner crack to the top.
		+	FA: Christie Terrell, Hector Pringle and Ian Kotze, 2007-11-04.
		+
		+
		+	'''THE DECLINE OF THE AMERICAN EMPIRE 18 *** [N]'''
		+	This climb provides a route out of the nek to the mainland. There are 3 cracks to the left of THE CONSTANT GARDENER. This climbs the left hand, hand-sized crack.
		+	1. 15m, 18 (F3) Climb the crack to the top.
		+	FA: Ian Kotze and Hector Pringle, 2007-11-27.
		+
		+
		+	'''ROCK ADDICTION 16 *** [N]'''
		+	When standing in the nek there are two cracks to the top of Jackal Pinnacle. This climbs the right hand one.
		+	1. 15m, 16 (F2) Climb the crack to the top.
		+	FA: Ian Kotze and Hector Pringle, 2007-11-27.
		+
		+
		+	'''LAMB TO THE SLAUGHTER 19 *** [N]'''
		+	Takes the offwidth up the from of Jackal Pinnacle.
		+	1. 20m, 19 (G1) Climb the offwidth to a ledge, which is actually the top of a smaller subsidiary pinnacle.
		+	2. 30m, ??? Step across to the main wall and climb the corner till it eases. Continue up on the right to the top.
		+	FA: Graham and Christie Terrell, 2007.
		+
		+
		+	'''DAY OF THE JACKAL 22 **** [N]'''
		+	Climbs the front of Jackal Pinnacle. Start at the sublime-looking finger crack in the face, towards the left of the east side of the pinnacle. This is left of a smaller subsidiary pinnacle which leans against the main one.
		+	1. 35m, 20 (G2) Climb the crack to a ledge. Walk left to the corner and climb past the tree to the crack above. Where the crack gets very easy traverse right to the middle of the face. Climb straight up to a ledge below a steep finger crack.
		+	2. 15m, 22 (G3) Climb the finger crack to the top.
		+	FA: Hector Pringle and Ian Kotze, 2007-11-27.
		+
		+
		+	'''CLIT 11 ** [N]'''
		+	Start 6m right of the corner at the left side of JACKAL PINNACLE. The corner becomes a steep broken gulley higher up, separating the pinnacle and the main wall. The routes takes the obvious corner crack which passes left of the overhanging block at 10m and goes past a large Naboom at 30m.
		+	1. 30m, 10 (E2) Climb the corner crack past the overhanging block and up to a ledge with a 1.5m flake. Continue up the delicate slab in the corner until able to step left onto the Naboom ledge. Up 2m to the next ledge.
		+	2. 38m, 11 (E3) Climb smooth, steep face above using thin crack to the tree at 6m. Move right and up through overhang then back to the crack line. Climb straight up face (left side of buttress) to chimney which is undercut to start, with overhangs on the right. Climb corner on the left edge of the buttress to the top.
		+	FA: D. Peters, J. Newington and L. Mallen, 1974-07-28.
		+
		+
		+	==HOMELESS ROUTES==
		+	If you know where these routes are please update the RD's accordingly.
		+
		+	'''FIGHT IT WITH YOUR MIND 19 [N]'''
		+	Takes the open recess to the left of SNAPAKAMTAG. The route starts where the foot of the crag begins to rise up to the left and a large tree grows from the base of the face next to a chimney on the right-hand side of a small buttress. Scramble 10m up the buttress to belay on ledges in a corner.
		+	1. 30m F2 (15) Traverse right and climb up next to the trunk of the large tree to a ledge. Move slightly right and climb a short, steep face on good holds. Move back left and ascend in the corner until able to step right onto white-spattered ledges (beware leaning pillar at top of corner). Go right and climb the recess to stance in the cool behind a 2.5m blocky flake.
		+	2. 40m 19 (G1) Rather than try the steep corner overhead, traverse left from above the flake to an exposed position on easier rock. Climb diagonally right to a point above the steep corner and carry on to where the continuation break steepens. Traverse left across the face to an easier corner which is followed most of the way to the top.
		+	Notes:
		+	1. After traversing left from the stance one could continue straight up over stepped rock, but this looks a bit dirty.
		+	FA: Charles Edelstein and Kevin Smith, 1982-08-15.
		+
		+
		+	'''PASSATTA 19 [N]'''
		+	Start on right hand side of large pinnacle under large shady tree.
		+	1. 40m 17 (F3) Climb pinnacle. Step onto main rock face. Climb 5m then traverse left into chimney between pinnacle and rock face. Stance on top of pinnacle.
		+	2. 10m 19 (G1) Proceed up jugs on main face with strenuous pull throughs. Traverse left and move up to stance on ledge.
		+	3. ??m 19 (G1) Move 3m left and climb strenuously to the summit.
		+	FA: George and Steven Mallory, 1982-08-15.
		+
		+
		+	'''ABNORMAL LOAD 19 [N]'''
		+	Follows an obvious break in the eastern wall above a grey buttress. The break is one of two which slope to the right above the first ledge.
		+	1. 12m 17 (F3) Start where the left edge of the grey buttress meets the main wall. Climb to the top of the buttress. Climb diagonally left into a closed-off open book. Step left onto the face and climb up to a large ledge.
		+	2. 23m 19 (G1) Climb broken rock to the right of the diagonal crack line to the base of an overhanging open book. Climb the book to a large ledge.
		+	FA: S. Morkel and Terry White, 1982-11-20.

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:18, 29 November 2010
Line 275:		Line 275:
	FA: P. de Kock and party, 1970.		FA: P. de Kock and party, 1970.
	FFA: Charles Edelstein and Kevin Smith, 1982-08-14.		FFA: Charles Edelstein and Kevin Smith, 1982-08-14.
		+
		+	==WATERFALL AREA – TRUE RIGHT==
		+
		+	===HEIGHT===
		+	50 to 80m.
		+
		+	===ACCESS===
		+	EITHER Descend as per The Gulley Area. Continue walking leftwards past The Twin Cracks and Waterfall – True Left Areas. Cross the river and head up to the rock.
		+	OR alternatively set up a fixed abseil anchor from the top.
		+
		+	===ASPECT===
		+	These climbs face east to south east. Expect morning sun.
		+
		+	'''BUTCHER’S REVENGE 23 **** [N, X]'''
		+	Climbs the middle of the steep, blank wall immediately true right of the waterfall. Approach from the top and abseil down to stance on a small ledge with a tree in the centre of the wall, just above the tree line.
		+	1. 45m 23X (H1) Step off the ledge rightwards and follow the foot-ledge for 3m. From the end of the foot-ledge, head straight up the wall for 8m, with poor and spaced protection, trending slightly leftwards to gain a large ledge below the slight groove. Climb awkwardly up the groove for 3m to a thin break. Arrange some dubious protection here (00 friend, RP2) then climb the 2m wall above on small holds (crux) to a thank-god hold and the first good pro. Continue climbing the groove on good holds and excellent protection. At the large break below the roof, traverse rightwards until an obvious corner leading to the top of the wall is reached.
		+	Notes:
		+	1. This is a bold and serious route, generally on sound rock. There are, however, some fragile holds on the lower sections.
		+	2. Opened on an MCSA international meet in the best UK tradition. Pre-inspected but not top roped. Gear placed on lead.
		+	FA: John Roberts (visiting from the UK), Neil Margetts, March 2008.
		+
		+	'''TIDDLYWINKS 17 ** [N]'''
		+	Starts from the bottom, about 100m left of the waterfall. Start below the obvious chimney in the middle of a red wall.
		+	1. 15m 12 (E3) Ascend the chimney to a ledge and traverse right to below the red wall.
		+	2. 40m 17 (F3) Climb the red wall step-wise, to a ledge with a small tree. Traverse left then up to the top.
		+	FA: Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers and M. Townsend in 1988.
		+
		+	'''JASPER 17 **** [N]'''
		+	Climbs the break 10m right of LAYEDBACK’s top pitch. Best approached from the top.
		+	3. 30m 17 (F3) Climb crack/recess to the top.
		+	FA: Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers and M. Townsend in 1988.
		+
		+	'''LAYEDBACK 19 *** [N]'''
		+	About 50m to the true right of the waterfall is a very prominent corner crack. The crack diverges about halfway up and ends on a large ledge full of aloes. The climb finishes up a wide chimney.
		+	From the bottom, ascend roots for 20m to a large dead tree. Start in the corner.
		+	1. 25m 17 (F3) Climb corner crack to large sloping ledge.
		+	2. 30m 19 (G1) Ascend crack past large block to a cubbyhole. Above are two cracks. Ascend the left hand one to a large ledge.
		+	3. 35m 19 (G1) Ascend corner to overhang, jam through on the right past an aloe to a large ledge. Climb chimney to the top.
		+	Notes:
		+	1. The top pitch was likely “re-opened” as BALLADE OF ALOES by Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers and M. Townsend in 1988.
		+	FA: H.P. Bakker, J. Brown and Paul Schlotfeldt, 1983-09.

@@ Line 255: / Line 255: @@
 ===ROUTES===
-'''DICKIEPOOH 17 * [N]'''
+'''DICKIEPOOH 17 * [N] - DO NOT DO THIS ROUTE BETWEEN MARCH AND SEPTEMBER TO AVOID DISTURBING BLACK EAGLE CHICKS!'''
-''''DO NOT DO THIS ROUTE BETWEEN MARCH AND SEPTEMBER TO AVOID DISTURBING BLACK EAGLE CHICKS!''''
 Situated in the obvious break/chimney with a tree growing out halfway up. Belay on the left of a large block near the face.
 . 40m F2 (15) Climb/scramble to tree. Climb chimney to below blocks in the crack.

@@ Line 185: / Line 185: @@
 ===ASPECT===
 These climbs face north and therefore get a lot of sun. Look out for wasps.
 '''ON EDGE 16 *** [N]'''
@@ Line 238: / Line 240: @@
 . 45m 17 (F3) Climb the open book. Move left at the top then back right into the open book above the overhang. Follow this to the top.
 FA: D. Hunter and R. Norman, 1982-03-15.