Difference between revisions of "Mogonye"

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[[Image:jk_IMG_4783.JPG|600px]]
 
[[Image:jk_IMG_4783.JPG|600px]]
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[[Image:Mogonye_routes.jpg|800px]]
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The cliffs are North facing, so best for winter climbing. The walk in takes just over an hour.
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*1 LETLHALE 15 (N) 45m
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To the right of the gulley and left of the overhangs take the most obvious route up going round a large block at midheight.
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First Ascent Carl Bauer May 2009
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*2 UNNAMED 16 (N) 50m (2 pitches) **
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Follow obvious fractured open book over large blocks and past small tree to get to the large, spacious ledge/walkway half way up the cliff – a good place for a first stance as the next section is way off-line to the left. Walk across to the face on the left to set up second stance at a cracked boulder sitting on the ledge. Head up over a poorly protected yet interesting vault-type move  that takes you over horizontal cracks and into an open book at the bottom of the obvious narrow crack on the pillar face. Admit defeat to the chossy crack and continue up open book on the left. A number of slings are required here to reduce rope drag. Climb out from between the large jutting block on the left and the main cliff face. Once atop the block follow the obvious line to your left, which takes you to the top. Walk off to an exit.
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First Ascent Guy Williams May 2009
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*3 UNNAMED 18 (N) 50m (2 pitches) ***
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Start off on the boulder and head diagonally up and to the right. Traverse through an unpleasant bushy section to end up beneath the obvious large chimney. Climb straight up through yet more bushes on the left of the small pillar to gain a small ledge at the base of the chimney – Beware of wasp nests!! Climb up chimney (good hex, nut and cam placements in the cracks) and make a tricky exit at the top, mostly using holds on the left-hand face and a foothold on the right’. Excellent stance in the cave directly above the chimney, with a sling thread anchor and spacious ledges. Traverse right along the ledge/walkway to the second stance at the base of another obvious chimney, protectable with mid-range cams. Head up through the chimney (both small and large cams go well) and straight up along the obvious fracture line which turns into a blocky gulley towards the top. Excellent boulder and tree anchors just below the summit. Walk off to an exit.
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First Ascent Guy Williams May 2009 
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*4 NKA MO DIRA 16 (N) 50m
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To the left of the drip through the break in the overhangs to a stance in a recess. From here back out through the crack at the back of the recess and up the pillar and flake to the right.
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First Ascent Carl Bauer May 2009
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*5 UNNAMED 19 (TR) 40m
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Direct line up through the less steep overhangs. Nice climbing.
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*6 UNNAMED 21 (TR) 40m
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Direct line up through one of the largest roofs. Looks improbable but there are good horizontal breaks where you need them.
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*7 DIKELEDI 17 (N) 40m
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To the left of the largest set of overhangs. Up under the leftmost overhang before the recess. There is a small jump off a ledge to a large ledge (unless you're tall) then up to the left of the overhang there is a recess. Come back out right before the tree on a ledge. Take short clean 90 degree open book for the crux finish to ledge on right of open book. Done in 2 pitches.
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First Ascent Carl Bauer Jan 2010
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* DESCENT ROUTE - Leopard’s Lair Escape Gulley
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Large, obvious bushy gulley situated between lines 1 and 2. Scramble and down-climb past a narrow, deep cave. Bear left as you’re walking down (West) and down climb a tricky section to end up in the leaning tree. Continue down past the larger cave to a small tree on the edge of a steep rock dropoff. Rapell off this tree, over the boulder and down. Rope pulls easily.
  
 
==Mmamotshwane Gorge==
 
==Mmamotshwane Gorge==
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[[Image:Mogonye 3867.JPG|600px]]
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Offers less spectacular climbing than the cliffs, but in a pleasant shaded area with a stream.
  
 
==Getting There==
 
==Getting There==
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<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
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-24.83882, 25.66291|Mannyelanong Cliffs
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-24.85917, 25.68662|Mmamotshwane Gorge
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</display_points>
  
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<!--Old google code
 
<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-24.838309" lon="25.687065" zoom="13">
 
<googlemap version="0.9" lat="-24.838309" lon="25.687065" zoom="13">
 
(A) -24.83882, 25.66291
 
(A) -24.83882, 25.66291
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-24.824664, 25.662892
 
-24.824664, 25.662892
 
</googlemap>
 
</googlemap>
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-->
  
 
*A Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
 
*A Mannyelanong Cliffs: {{maplinks|-24.83882|25.66291|Mannyelanong+Cliffs}}
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Turn off the A1 at Boatle and head towards Thamaga. Take the signposted left turn to Mogonye Village. Road is tar up to village. Then take track as shown above (and see Tracks4Africa layer on google earth). 4WD needed.
 
Turn off the A1 at Boatle and head towards Thamaga. Take the signposted left turn to Mogonye Village. Road is tar up to village. Then take track as shown above (and see Tracks4Africa layer on google earth). 4WD needed.
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>> Back to [[Botswana]] page

Latest revision as of 09:08, 9 November 2012

Mogonye village is about 40km to the South West of Gaborone, Botswana. There are two climbing areas, the Mannyelanong Cliffs and the Mmamotshwane Gorge.

Mannyelanong Cliffs

Jk IMG 4783.JPG

Mogonye routes.jpg

The cliffs are North facing, so best for winter climbing. The walk in takes just over an hour.

  • 1 LETLHALE 15 (N) 45m

To the right of the gulley and left of the overhangs take the most obvious route up going round a large block at midheight.

First Ascent Carl Bauer May 2009

  • 2 UNNAMED 16 (N) 50m (2 pitches) **

Follow obvious fractured open book over large blocks and past small tree to get to the large, spacious ledge/walkway half way up the cliff – a good place for a first stance as the next section is way off-line to the left. Walk across to the face on the left to set up second stance at a cracked boulder sitting on the ledge. Head up over a poorly protected yet interesting vault-type move that takes you over horizontal cracks and into an open book at the bottom of the obvious narrow crack on the pillar face. Admit defeat to the chossy crack and continue up open book on the left. A number of slings are required here to reduce rope drag. Climb out from between the large jutting block on the left and the main cliff face. Once atop the block follow the obvious line to your left, which takes you to the top. Walk off to an exit.

First Ascent Guy Williams May 2009

  • 3 UNNAMED 18 (N) 50m (2 pitches) ***

Start off on the boulder and head diagonally up and to the right. Traverse through an unpleasant bushy section to end up beneath the obvious large chimney. Climb straight up through yet more bushes on the left of the small pillar to gain a small ledge at the base of the chimney – Beware of wasp nests!! Climb up chimney (good hex, nut and cam placements in the cracks) and make a tricky exit at the top, mostly using holds on the left-hand face and a foothold on the right’. Excellent stance in the cave directly above the chimney, with a sling thread anchor and spacious ledges. Traverse right along the ledge/walkway to the second stance at the base of another obvious chimney, protectable with mid-range cams. Head up through the chimney (both small and large cams go well) and straight up along the obvious fracture line which turns into a blocky gulley towards the top. Excellent boulder and tree anchors just below the summit. Walk off to an exit.

First Ascent Guy Williams May 2009

  • 4 NKA MO DIRA 16 (N) 50m

To the left of the drip through the break in the overhangs to a stance in a recess. From here back out through the crack at the back of the recess and up the pillar and flake to the right.

First Ascent Carl Bauer May 2009

  • 5 UNNAMED 19 (TR) 40m

Direct line up through the less steep overhangs. Nice climbing.

  • 6 UNNAMED 21 (TR) 40m

Direct line up through one of the largest roofs. Looks improbable but there are good horizontal breaks where you need them.

  • 7 DIKELEDI 17 (N) 40m

To the left of the largest set of overhangs. Up under the leftmost overhang before the recess. There is a small jump off a ledge to a large ledge (unless you're tall) then up to the left of the overhang there is a recess. Come back out right before the tree on a ledge. Take short clean 90 degree open book for the crux finish to ledge on right of open book. Done in 2 pitches.

First Ascent Carl Bauer Jan 2010

  • DESCENT ROUTE - Leopard’s Lair Escape Gulley

Large, obvious bushy gulley situated between lines 1 and 2. Scramble and down-climb past a narrow, deep cave. Bear left as you’re walking down (West) and down climb a tricky section to end up in the leaning tree. Continue down past the larger cave to a small tree on the edge of a steep rock dropoff. Rapell off this tree, over the boulder and down. Rope pulls easily.

Mmamotshwane Gorge

Mogonye 3867.JPG

Offers less spectacular climbing than the cliffs, but in a pleasant shaded area with a stream.

Getting There

Loading map...


Turn off the A1 at Boatle and head towards Thamaga. Take the signposted left turn to Mogonye Village. Road is tar up to village. Then take track as shown above (and see Tracks4Africa layer on google earth). 4WD needed.


>> Back to Botswana page