Difference between revisions of "Rocklands Sport Climbing"

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(Created page with "= Wildwest Wall = This is the first wall as you walk in on your left (walk in takes 10 minutes from the gate)) == Topo == Image:wild_west_wall_rocklands_.jpg '''Routes...")
 
(Black Slab)
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This is the first wall as you walk in on your left (walk in takes 10 minutes from the gate))
 
This is the first wall as you walk in on your left (walk in takes 10 minutes from the gate))
  
== Topo ==
 
 
[[Image:wild_west_wall_rocklands_.jpg]]
 
[[Image:wild_west_wall_rocklands_.jpg]]
  
  
 
'''Routes'''
 
'''Routes'''
# 1 - Lone Star  - 19 -  Amrei von Hase -  2007
+
Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right  
# 2 - Hand jobs for holidays - 25 - Scot Miller - 2007
+
# 3 - Wild Bill Hitchcock - 26 - Paul Schlotfeldt  - 1994
+
# 4 - Riding Shotgun - 24 - Mike Roberts - 1994
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# 5 - Geronimo - 24 - Mike Roberts - 1994
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# 6 - Bullet the blue sky - 24 - Malcolm Gowans - 2007
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# 7 - Cranky Cowgirl - 20 - Malcolm Gowans - 2007
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+
=== Route List ===
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'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right  
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{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
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|Lone Star
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|19
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|Amrei von Hase -  2007
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|2
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|Hand jobs for holidays
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|25
 
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|Scott Miller - 2007
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|-
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|3
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|Wild Bill Hitchcock
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|26
 
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|Paul Schlotfeldt - 1994
 
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|
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|-
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|4
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|Riding Shotgun
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|24
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|
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|
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|Mike Roberts - 1994 
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|
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|-
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|5
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|Geronimo
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|24
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|
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|
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|Mike Roberts - 1994 
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|
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|-
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|6
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|Bullet the blue sky
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|24
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|
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|Malcolm Gowans - 2007
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|-
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|7
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|Bullet the blue sky
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|20
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|Malcolm Gowans - 2007 
 
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|
 
|}
 
|}
 
 
  
 
= Biscuit Wall =
 
= Biscuit Wall =
# Brandy Snaps 6c/23 5B 1995 M Roberts
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Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right
# Vanity Affair 6a/19 5B 1995 R Quick
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{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
To the right facing the road three new routes
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|-
from right to left.
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|#
 
+
|ROUTE NAME / AREA
1. Start the Wave 16 S Miller
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|GRADE
 
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|# BOLTS
2. Bandwidth 19 S Miller
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|RATING
 +
|BOLTING/OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|1
 +
|Brandy Snaps
 +
|6c/23
 +
|5B
 +
|
 +
|1995 M Roberts
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2
 +
|Vanity Affair
 +
|6a/19
 +
|5B
 +
|
 +
|1995 R Quick
 +
|
 +
|}
  
3. Sea Legs 23 S Miller
+
To the right facing the road three new routes from right to left.
== Route List ==
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right  
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
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|1
 
|1
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|Start the Wave
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|16
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|
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|S Miller
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2
 +
|Bandwidth
 +
|19
 
|
 
|
 
|
 
|
 +
|S Miller
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|3
 +
|Sea Legs
 +
|23
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|
 
|
 
|
 +
|S Miller
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
  
 
= The Island =
 
= The Island =
# Wet Pups 5-/16 5B 1993 M Roberts
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Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right  
# Cracker 17 2007 S Miller
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# Squeeze Play 17/18 2009 S Miller
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# The Arête/ First Impressions 6b/21 1992 J Fisher (Original Name: First Impressions, FA Natural 1990, J Fisher/ R Suter)
+
# Casting Illusions 6a+/19 6B 1993 M Roberts
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# Thoughtless Wanders 6a/18 6B 1993 M Roberts
+
 
+
== Route List ==
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right  
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
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|-
 
|-
 
|1
 
|1
 +
|Wet Pups
 +
|5-/16
 +
|5B
 
|
 
|
|
+
|1993 M Roberts
|
+
 
|
 
|
 +
|-
 +
|2
 +
|Cracker
 +
|17
 
|
 
|
 +
|
 +
|2007 S Miller
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|
 +
|-
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|3
 +
|Squeeze Play
 +
|17/18
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|2009 S Miller
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|4
 +
|The Arête/ First Impressions
 +
|6b/21
 +
|5B
 +
|
 +
|1992 J Fisher / Original Name: First Impressions, FA Natural 1990, J Fisher/ R Suter
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|5
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|Casting Illusions
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|6a+/19
 +
|6B
 +
|
 +
|1993 M Roberts
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|
 +
|-
 +
|6
 +
|Thoughtless Wanders
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|6a/18
 +
|6B
 +
|
 +
|1993 M Roberts
 
|
 
|
 
|}
 
|}
 
  
 
= Black Slab =
 
= Black Slab =
# Beam me up skhatie 21
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Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right  
# Future Shock 24
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+
 
+
[http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/rocklands.pdf Download PDF for Skinner Boulder,Chappelle Rock & Black Slab] NB: this is a 217kb PDF
+
 
+
== Route List ==
+
'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right  
+
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 
|-
 
|-
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|-
 
|1
 
|1
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|Beam me up skhatie
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|21
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|
 
|
|
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|
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|-
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|2
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|Future Shock
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|24
 
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|}
 
|}
  
 +
[http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/rocklands.pdf Download PDF for Skinner Boulder,Chappelle Rock & Black Slab] NB: this is a 217kb PDF
  
 
= Chappelle Rock =
 
= Chappelle Rock =

Revision as of 11:28, 10 November 2012

Wildwest Wall

This is the first wall as you walk in on your left (walk in takes 10 minutes from the gate))

Wild west wall rocklands .jpg


Routes Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 Lone Star 19 Amrei von Hase - 2007
2 Hand jobs for holidays 25 Scott Miller - 2007
3 Wild Bill Hitchcock 26 Paul Schlotfeldt - 1994
4 Riding Shotgun 24 Mike Roberts - 1994
5 Geronimo 24 Mike Roberts - 1994
6 Bullet the blue sky 24 Malcolm Gowans - 2007
7 Bullet the blue sky 20 Malcolm Gowans - 2007

Biscuit Wall

Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 Brandy Snaps 6c/23 5B 1995 M Roberts
2 Vanity Affair 6a/19 5B 1995 R Quick

To the right facing the road three new routes from right to left.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 Start the Wave 16 S Miller
2 Bandwidth 19 S Miller
3 Sea Legs 23 S Miller

The Island

Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 Wet Pups 5-/16 5B 1993 M Roberts
2 Cracker 17 2007 S Miller
3 Squeeze Play 17/18 2009 S Miller
4 The Arête/ First Impressions 6b/21 5B 1992 J Fisher / Original Name: First Impressions, FA Natural 1990, J Fisher/ R Suter
5 Casting Illusions 6a+/19 6B 1993 M Roberts
6 Thoughtless Wanders 6a/18 6B 1993 M Roberts

Black Slab

Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 Beam me up skhatie 21
2 Future Shock 24

Download PDF for Skinner Boulder,Chappelle Rock & Black Slab NB: this is a 217kb PDF

Chappelle Rock

  1. Greys Anatomy 17
  2. Orange Juice Jones 17
  3. I’m Rick James, Bitch! 21


Download PDF for Skinner Boulder,Chappelle Rock & Black Slab NB: this is a 217kb PDF

Route List

Rocklands Sport Climbing Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1


Skinner Boulder

  1. Skinless Arete 31
  2. Cowboy UP! 22
  3. Buckaroo 20
  4. USDA Prime 18
  5. Slap Happy 20
  6. Hot Pockets 21
  7. Cedars Arete 19



Route List

Rocklands Sport Climbing Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1


Cedar Rouge Boulder

  1. Chenin Blanc 6c/23 5B 1993 A Lainis
  2. Chateux Waga Waga 7b+/27 7B 1993 J Fisher
  3. Cedar Rouge 6c+/24 5B 1992 Paul Schlotfeldt
  4. Sauvignon Plonk 7a+/26 5B 1993 Dave Davies
  5. Bukketaube 7a/24 6B 1993 Paul Schlotfeldt


Route List

Rocklands Sport Climbing Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1


Orange Plasma Wall

32 09 52.8S 19 02 07.8E

  • Orange Plasma 22
  • Testarossa 26/27? - right hand route on Orange Plasma Wall - up the blank red wall on small crimps then through the heucos. Climb it like you drive the car, else it will spank you. 20m


Route List

Rocklands Sport Climbing Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1

Cattle Rustler Area

  1. Fickle Sickle 21 7b S Miller July 2010 (About 60 meters to the left and around the corner from Cattle rustler)
  2. Enter the Ninja 20 13b **28meters** S Miller May 2010 (About 50 meters to the left and around the corner from Cattle rustler)
  3. Cattle Rustler 6a+/20 6B 1994 D Shewell
  4. Cattle Hustler 24 S Miller Dec 09
  5. Hearing Damage 24 S Miller Dec 09
  6. Lefty Loosy 20 S Miller Dec 09
  7. Righty Tighty 19 S Miller Dec 09
  8. Sidewinder 7a+/26 6B 1995 Sean Maasch

Newroutescattlerustler.jpg


Route List

Rocklands Sport Climbing Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1

Sunblock

The Sunblock is about 50m to the right of the Orange Plasma Wall. Routes from left to right:

  • Alto Rouge 27 FA: Paul Schlotfelt, 1993
  • A River Runs Through It 27 Deon Hugo, 2007
  • Afterburn 26 Jeremy Samson, 2007
  • Phalic Tan 30 FA: Jeremy Samson, 2005
  • Blockout 26 FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994
  • Coppertone 28 FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994
  • Factor 15 29 FA: Todd Skinner, 1992

Route List

Rocklands Sport Climbing Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1

Rubik's Cube Wall

Routes from left to right:

  1. Smooth and Groovy 17 7B and anchors, FA: Bradley Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008
  2.  ? 19 7B and anchors, FA:
  3. Rubik's Cube 19 6B and anchors, FA: Mike Roberts, 1992
  4. Crockett Rocket 22 7B and anchors, FA: Dave Davies, 1994
  5.  ? 18 8B and anchors, FA:


Route List

Rocklands Sport Climbing Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1


Outback Area

  1. Billy the Kid 21 7B D Shewell 1994
  2. Stranger than Technicians 28 9B A De Klerk 1994


Route List

Rocklands Sport Climbing Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1


The Bastille

Gd wc TheBastille.jpg

  1. Unnamed#1 25 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
  2. Unnamed#2 23 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
  3. Unnamed#3 23 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
  4. Unnamed#4 22 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
  5. Unnamed#5 20 2005 a visiting Swiss climber
  6. Unnamed#6 17 2005 a visiting Swiss climber

Media:ClimbZA_BastilleV2.pdf‎


Route List

Rocklands Sport Climbing Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1


The Fortress

  1. Backwater Utopia 6c+/23+ 8B 1992 J Samson, BB D Davies
  2. Magic Mushrooms 7c/28 8B 1994 Sean Maasch
  3. Soviet Dancer 7b/26 7B 1993 Sean Maasch

The Fortress Slab

  1. Braille Trail 6c+/24 4B 1993 Sean Maasch


Route List

Rocklands Sport Climbing Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1

Adultworld

Overhanging 45 Minute Uphill walk GPS: -32.158538,19.025484 This fun little crag has been gagging to be climbed as it involves some titilating jug fondling. It has a pleasant base which provides ample room and positions for spectators to watch the climbers grunt and pant through these highly satisfying routes. It was discovered by Andy Davies and overhangs about 8m in 24m – don’t be fooled by the picture alongside.

How to get there

At Rocklands, walk up to Bastille and then carry on West past the “Vice” overhang on your right through some boulders to “Armed Response”. Proceed South up a gentle slope along the faint path through more boulders for 100m and you will see the wall.

Topo

Adultworld.jpg

Route List

Rocklands Sport Climbing Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 Karma Sutra 23 equipped Andy & Esme Davies left hand route on AdultWorld - start off the block, up the groove with some interesting body positions then through the roof. 20m
2 Just Push Play 24 equipped Andy & Esme Davies
3 Stokstyf 23 equipped Andy & Esme Davies
4 Naughty Housewives III 22 equipped Andy & Esme Davies
5 Loslyf 21 equipped Andy & Esme Davies