Silvermine Crags

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(Lower Silvermine Crag)
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*NEW - My Precious 6a+/20 M Gowans. Pumpy and sustained in the lower half! Some of the rock at the start is a bit suspect so handle with care.  
 
*NEW - My Precious 6a+/20 M Gowans. Pumpy and sustained in the lower half! Some of the rock at the start is a bit suspect so handle with care.  
 
*E - Blockhead 6a+/20 (6B,C)  
 
*E - Blockhead 6a+/20 (6B,C)  
*PROJECT G Hart. Features many loose blocks reinforced with glue so stay off it until he's opened it and satisfied it's safe.  
+
* Skywalker 23 BB G Hart/FA J Temple-Forbes Features many loose blocks reinforced with glue.
 
*F - Chicks Dig it Lank 13 (6B,C)  
 
*F - Chicks Dig it Lank 13 (6B,C)  
 
*G - Serendipity 14 (6B,C)  
 
*G - Serendipity 14 (6B,C)  
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*P - Wings of Desire (Project) (3B,C)  
 
*P - Wings of Desire (Project) (3B,C)  
 
*Q - Wet Dreams 6a/19 (6B,C)
 
*Q - Wet Dreams 6a/19 (6B,C)
 
  
 
=== Blaze of Glory ===
 
=== Blaze of Glory ===

Revision as of 16:33, 19 January 2009

Map ct silver.gif

Behind the ridge are four different crags: the Lower Silvermine Crag has easy routes and is perfect for beginners, Blaze of Glory is a little harder, Silvermine Main Crag is a good all round crag and Fawltey Towers for some harder stuff.

  • ±80 single pitch sport routes
  • Grades 4 to 7b+
  • 10 to 25 minute walk-in

These are some of the best crags in South Africa with short walk-ins, superb rock quality and brilliant routes.

Contents

Season

All year round. Sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon

Rock

Sandstone

Gear

Sport rack, 50m or 60m rope. Be sure to tie a knot in the end of your rope as some of the routes are higher than 25m.

The climbing

Mostly vertical to slightly overhanging with a good 'get your leg up overhang' on a couple of the routes at Silvermine Main Crag and Blaze of Glory. There are many less overhanging/easier climbs at the two Lower Crags.

Getting There

From Cape Town, take Ou Kaapse Weg towards Noordhoek. Once on top of the mountain turn right into the Silvermine Reserve. There is an entrance fee of R15 to get into the reserve (January 2009). A Wild card also gets you in. Visitors to South Africa can also take advantage of the Wild cards.[1]

Areas

Lower Silvermine Crag

Silverminelower.gif

Routes from L to R Park at the first parking lot. Walk straight up the hill to the ridge and then take a path to the left and follow the cairns to the abseil point. The are abseil anchors which you can use to safely get you to the base of the crag. NB: You have to abseil to get to this crag.

  • A - Bedazzled 6b/21 (5B,C) M Gowans
  • B - Vortex 6a+/20 (7B,C) T Lourens
  • C - Cosmik Debris 6b/21 (6B,C)
  • D - Nimbus 6a/19 (6B,C)
  • NEW - My Precious 6a+/20 M Gowans. Pumpy and sustained in the lower half! Some of the rock at the start is a bit suspect so handle with care.
  • E - Blockhead 6a+/20 (6B,C)
  • Skywalker 23 BB G Hart/FA J Temple-Forbes Features many loose blocks reinforced with glue.
  • F - Chicks Dig it Lank 13 (6B,C)
  • G - Serendipity 14 (6B,C)
  • H - Rough Rider 15 (6B,C)
  • I - Flakes 15 (6B,C)
  • J - Alpha & Omega 6b+/22 (6B,C)
  • K - Fool's Garden 6a+/19 (6B,C)
  • L - Odideah 6a/18 (8B,C)
  • M - Jedeiah 6a/18 (6B,C)
  • N - The Gift /16 (7B,C)
  • O - Hard as it Gets 17 (7B,C)
  • P - Wings of Desire (Project) (3B,C)
  • Q - Wet Dreams 6a/19 (6B,C)

Blaze of Glory

Routes from L to R

  • Promise of Light 6b+/22 15m
  • Terminal Velocity 6b+/22 15m
  • Drop Zone 6a/19 15m
  • Wake-Up Call 6b/21 16m
  • Bad Medicine 6b/21 16m
  • Blaze of Glory 6b+/22 15m
  • Dead Wing Starling 4+/15 14m
  • Hairless Mexican 4+/15 14m


Silvermine Main Crag

Routes From left to right:

  • Mind the Gap 21 (12 bolts) Scott Miller, March 2005
    to the left of Argent
  • Argent 16 Richard Behne
  • Argentum 19 Richard Behne
  • Jono Gordon's Route 22 Jono Gordon
    This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
  • Mercury 26 Richard Behne
    This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
  • Pistolero 20 Patrick McCann
  • Josie Get Your Gun 21 Patrick McCann
    Hard if you're short
  • Cool Hand Luke 18 Patrick McCann
  • Male Country 24 Jayson Orton
  • No Man's Land 24 John Alexander
  • Sterling Silver 21 John Alexander
    A classic! This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
  • Revealyomango 20 Tony Lourens
  • Train Spotting 28 Guy Holwill
  • Silver Streak 26 Paul Schlodfeldt
  • Dragonfly 26 Mike Roberts
  • Trance Dance 23 Malcolm Gowans
  • Kirika 23 Greg Hart, 2006
    The grey streaks, crack and roof right of Trance Dance. The first two bolts are not in the best of rock.

Photos

Clipping the chains on Sterling Silver. photo: Philip Starke
Sterling Silver. photo: Andy Davies


Fawltey Towers

To get to Fawltey Towers, walk along the dirt road to the far side of the ridge. Once on the ridge, head back (that is, walk in the direction of Muizenberg). Look for a rock cairn indicating the path to walk down to the crag. You will arrive at the right hand side of the crag.

From left to right:

  • Moose's Head 23 Guy Holwill
  • The Psychiatrist 22 Jason Temple-Forbes
  • Corked 19 Jayson Orton
  • Duck Surprise 20 Tony Lourens
  • Communication Breakdown 23 Jayson Orton
  • Lemonade 16 (9 bolts) Tyrone Chan, March 2005
  • Playin' Hookie 16 (9 bolts) Scott Miller, March 2005
  • Sthpoonz 20 Jayson Orton
  • Waldorf Salad 18 Robyn Holwill (harder start a metre or so to the right is graded 22)
  • Brahm's Third Racket 26 Guy Holwill
  • Basil the Rat 23 Jayson Orton
  • Toreador of Torquay 21 Patrick McCann
  • False Alarm 26 Jayson Orton
  • Don't Mention the War 26 Guy Holwill
  • Fire Alarm 23 (7 bolts) Scott Miller, February 2005
  • The Germans 27 Guy Holwill
  • Bravest Orangutan in Britain 22 Gordon Forbes
  • Not Yet Major 25 Guy Holwill
  • Lord Melbury 25 Robyn Holwill
  • Boff 23 Jason Temple-Forbes
  • Poff 21 Jayson Orton (this is the first route you will see when you arrive at the crag)
Climbing at Fawltey Towers
Battling the undercling on Lord Melbury
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