Difference between revisions of "Silvermine Crags"

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* '''Tad ho''' 23 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
 
* '''Tad ho''' 23 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
 
* '''Mong love''' 17 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
 
* '''Mong love''' 17 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
* '''Giden gem''' 21 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
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* '''Giden hem''' 21 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
  
 
[[Image:Silverminor craglet topo.jpg|frame|center|Silverminor topo. By Malcolm Gowans]]
 
[[Image:Silverminor craglet topo.jpg|frame|center|Silverminor topo. By Malcolm Gowans]]

Revision as of 16:01, 6 June 2012

Map ct silver.gif

Behind the ridge are four different crags: the Lower Silvermine Crag has easy routes and is perfect for beginners, Blaze of Glory is a little harder, Silvermine Main Crag is a good all round crag and Fawltey Towers for some harder stuff.

  • ±80 single pitch sport routes
  • Grades 4 to 7b+
  • 10 to 25 minute walk-in

These are some of the best crags in South Africa with short walk-ins, superb rock quality and brilliant routes.

Season

All year round. Sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon

Rock

Sandstone

Gear

Sport rack, 50m or 60m rope. Be sure to tie a knot in the end of your rope as some of the routes are higher than 25m.

The climbing

Mostly vertical to slightly overhanging with a good 'get your leg up overhang' on a couple of the routes at Silvermine Main Crag and Blaze of Glory. There are many less overhanging/easier climbs at the two Lower Crags.

Getting There

From Cape Town, take Ou Kaapse Weg towards Noordhoek. Once on top of the mountain turn right into the Silvermine Reserve. There is an entrance fee of R30.00 to get into the reserve (February 2012). A Wild card also gets you in. Visitors to South Africa can also take advantage of the Wild cards.Wildcard

Areas

Lower Silvermine Crag

Silverminelower.gif

Routes from L to R Park at the first parking lot. Walk straight up the hill to the ridge and then take a path to the left and follow the cairns to the path down and abseil point. The path down to the crag goes on the right (when the crag below you). You can also abseil into this crag, The abseil anchors are safely set back about 1 meter from the edge (a doubled 50 meter rope will get you to the bottom)

Cloud Nine Wall:

  • A - Bedazzled 6b/21 (5B,C) M Gowans
  • B - Vortex 6a+/20 (7B,C) T Lourens
  • C - Cosmik Debris 6b/21 (6B,C)
  • D - Nimbus 6a/19 (6B,C)
  • D.25 - Lord of The Ring 16 (10B,C), Brad Davies. A fantastic introductory route, closely bolted.
  • D.50 - My Precious 6a+/20 M Gowans. Pumpy and sustained in the lower half! Some of the rock at the start is a bit suspect so handle with care.
  • D.75 - Right of My Precious 21 Sean Maasch

Main/ Original Sector:

  • E - Blockhead 6a+/20 (6B,C)
  • E.50 - Skywalker 23 BB G Hart/FA J Temple-Forbes Features many loose blocks reinforced with glue.
  • E.75 - Mantra 13/14 Gavin Peckham and Brian Lambourne (30/03/08) [11B; C]
  • F - Chicks Dig it Lank 13 (6B,C)
  • G - Serendipity 14 (6B,C)
  • H - Rough Rider 15 (6B,C)
  • I - Flakes 15 (6B,C)
  • J - Alpha & Omega 6b+/22 (6B,C)
  • K - Fool's Garden 6a+/19 (6B,C)
  • L - Obideah 6a/18 (8B,C)
  • Between the Lines 6a+/20
  • M - Jedeiah 6a/18 (6B,C)
  • N - The Gift /16 (7B,C)
  • O - Hard as it Gets 17 (7B,C)
  • Vlad the Impaler 6a/19
  • P - Wings of Desire/ (Malcolm's Route in Book) (3B,C)
  • Q - Wet Dreams 6a/19

8 Mile Ledge: (Half way up Wet Dreams, traverse to the ledge on left)

  • Chris Kirkpatrick 21
  • Two Trailer Park Girls 22
  • Oh, There Goes Gravity 23
  • Oh, There Goes Gravity-direct 25

The Pumphouse:

  • Rest the Brakes 18
  • Spitfire 23
  • In Your Face 21
  • London Burning 7a (grade consensus needed) J. Samson pre July 2010
  • Cursed 19
  • Piglet Garden 17
  • Snitch 18

Blaze of Glory

Routes from L to R

  • Promise of Light 6b+/22 15m
  • Terminal Velocity 6b+/22 15m
  • Drop Zone 6a/19 15m
  • Wake-Up Call 6b/21 16m
  • Bad Medicine 6b/21 16m
  • Blaze of Glory 6b+/22 15m
  • Dead Wing Starling 4+/15 14m
  • Hairless Mexican 4+/15 14m


Silvermine Main Crag

Routes From left to right:

  • Mind the Gap 21 (12 bolts) Scott Miller, March 2005
    to the left of Argent
  • Argent 16 Richard Behne
  • Argentum 19 Richard Behne
  • Jono Gordon's Route 22 Jono Gordon
    This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
  • Mercury 26 Richard Behne
    This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
  • Pistolero 20 Patrick McCann
  • Josie Get Your Gun 21 Patrick McCann
    Hard if you're short
  • Cool Hand Luke 18 Patrick McCann
  • Male Country 24 Jayson Orton
  • No Man's Land 24 John Alexander
  • Sterling Silver 21 John Alexander
    A classic! This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
  • Revealyomango 20 Tony Lourens
  • Train Spotting 28 Guy Holwill
  • Silver Streak 26 Paul Schlodfeldt
  • Dragonfly 26 Mike Roberts
  • Trance Dance 23 Malcolm Gowans
  • Kirika 23 Greg Hart, 2006
    The grey streaks, crack and roof right of Trance Dance. The first two bolts are not in the best of rock.

Photos

Clipping the chains on Sterling Silver. photo: Philip Starke
Sterling Silver. photo: Andy Davies


Silverminor Crag

Access to Silverminor is from the Main Crag:

  • From the open terrace between 'Cool Hand Luke' and 'No Man's Land', step down and follow the vague path down and left along a ledge, to access the routes.

Routes From left to right:

  • Trite quicky 19 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
  • Souldery bart 18 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
  • Tad ho 23 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
  • Mong love 17 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
  • Giden hem 21 - Malcolm Gowans and Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
Silverminor topo. By Malcolm Gowans

Photos

Beth Higgins toping out on Souldery bart (18) at Silverminor. Photo by Malcolm Gowans


Fawltey Towers

To get to Fawltey Towers, walk along the dirt road to the far side of the ridge. Once on the ridge, head back (that is, walk in the direction of Muizenberg). Look for a rock cairn indicating the path to walk down to the crag. You will arrive at the right hand side of the crag.

From left to right:

  • Moose's Head 23 Guy Holwill
  • The Psychiatrist 22 Jason Temple-Forbes
  • Corked 19 Jayson Orton
  • Duck Surprise 20 Tony Lourens
  • Communication Breakdown 23 Jayson Orton
  • Lemonade 16 (9 bolts) Tyrone Chan, March 2005
  • Playin' Hookie 16 (9 bolts) Scott Miller, March 2005
  • Sthpoonz 20 Jayson Orton
  • Waldorf Salad 18 Robyn Holwill (harder start a metre or so to the right is graded 22)
  • Brahm's Third Racket 26 Guy Holwill
  • Basil the Rat 23 Jayson Orton
  • Toreador of Torquay 21 Patrick McCann
  • name? 21/22 It starts off with a couple of metres of face climbing, then moves up and right to a roof with some nice jugs, which moves over the roof to a left handed pinch, finally finishing at the chains under the ceiling.
  • False Alarm 26 Jayson Orton
  • Don't Mention the War 26 Guy Holwill
  • Fire Alarm 23 (7 bolts) Scott Miller, February 2005
  • The Germans 27 Guy Holwill
  • Bravest Orangutan in Britain 22 Gordon Forbes
  • Not Yet Major 25 Guy Holwill
  • Lord Melbury 25 Robyn Holwill
  • Boff 23 Jason Temple-Forbes
  • Poff 21 Jayson Orton (this is the first route you will see when you arrive at the crag)
Climbing at Fawltey Towers
Battling the undercling on Lord Melbury