South African Climbing Wiki

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Welcome to the ClimbZA Routes Wiki, an online rock climbing guide that you can edit. Please help us build the guide by adding useful information and correcting mistakes. To edit the wiki you need to have a forum username and be added to the wiki group. Please send us a mail with your current username to info@climbing.co.za and we will add you to the wiki group. The reason for the extra step is to prevent spam posting on the wiki.

General Information

South Africa offers some of the best climbing in the world. The rock is solid and great quality. There are many different rock formations all with different features. Oudtshoorn crags are limestone with hanging stalactites and tufas. The Cederberg is compact sandstone with ledges that offer solid gear placements. There is great sport climbing in Montagu, a small Klein Karoo town, where it is almost always dry, and there are loads and loads of bolted routes (about 400) of all grades. Waterval Boven is probably the most developed sport climbing area in the county with about 600 routes in a most beautiful setting. In the Free State, Mt Everest and Swinburne offer sport and trad climbing and awesome bouldering. The famous Wave Cave at Shongweni is just outside of Durban and has hard overhanging sport routes. You can do seaside cliff climbing at Morgan Bay. There is world class bouldering at Rocklands in the Cederberg, remote multi-pitch trad climbing at Magaliesberg and the Drakensberg Mountains. Ok, I could go on, but you get the point. The settings are beautiful and uncrowded by hoards of people. The small towns have a really nice laid-back country feel. The people are friendly and genuine. And the food, wine and atmosphere is always great!

A lot of climbing areas are on private land, so please be courteous to anybody you meet while in the area (it might be the landowner). Please don't litter. Only go to the toilet far away from the crag. Keep on the paths. Make a double knot on your shoelaces and always have a clean pair of underpants.

Areas

Western Cape

Prime Direct Yellow Wood Amphitheatre









A Note on the weather: If the wind is blowing SE which is common in summer, we have what Cape-Climbers refer to as the "Schlorck Factor" at some of the crags; the rock becomes so slippery and even damp that it seems as if someone smeared oil onto the holds. Climbing is near impossible unless you have a bucket of chalk to compensate! This effect is caused by sea water being blown onto the crags (from afar that is).

Crags affected: The Mine, The Hole, Silvermine Crags, Elsies Peak, Kalk Bay Crags, Peers Cave...

The rock friction is rarely if ever altered on the climbs that start at the "Ledge" on Table Mountain.

When the North Wester blows, it generally means that bad weather is on the way (but it could take a day or two to arrive.) The air can be warm and balmy before the clouds race in from the Atlantic. If Lions Head mountain is covered in cloud there is a high chance its going to rain in the next couple of hours.

When a so called cold "front" approaches then the best escape is to head to Montagu where a rain shadow protects the area from rain. As the front moves in from the sea over the peninsula there will be some delay before it gets to Paarl and then the Du Toit's Kloof range will also hold back the front for half a day or so. So one can climb at Paarl Rocks or Hellfire crag for a morning or afternoon. Unfortunately, as the "front" approaches it can get very windy in the Du Toit's pass as it acts as a chute.

The Cedarberg can also be considered but depending on the size of the front, it can rain there too.

Of the crags within an hour two of Cape Towb, Karbonaatjies Kraal is the last crag to be affected by wet weather.

Eastern Cape

Free State

KwaZulu Natal

Limpopo Province

Mpumalanga

Gauteng

Northwest Province

Namibia

Botswana

Lesotho

Route Hit List

Editing the Wiki

Naming a New Article

Choose a specific name for your new article. For example, prefer "Silvermine Main Crag" to "Main Crag".

Not everybody will access your new article from the page that it is initially linked from: some may access the article directly from a search engine, or from elsewhere in the wiki. The article name should therefore make sense in a stand-alone context. An article's name is its unique identifier within the wiki. For instance, if you look at the list of popular pages, then an article called "Main Craig" makes little sense amongst "Bronkies," "Waterval Boven," and so forth.

Remember that a link name needn't match the article name. Example: Use "[[Silvermine Main Crag|Main Crag]]" if you are in a Silvermine article and want to make a link that says Main Crag, (but the article linked to is called "Silvermine Main Crag").

Further Information

Consult the Meta-Wiki Editing Help for further information on wiki editing.

Note

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