Difference between revisions of "Spout"
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Revision as of 07:24, 8 February 2012
Tafelberg, Spout, West Face. 1. Bazooka Rodeo
Bazooka Rodeo (25) ****
Spout, West Face
A varied route with an improbable start, and then consistently good climbing. Start about 15m right of Dogmatix, below a pocketed roof.
- Pitch 1. 25 m (25) Up a short easy wall, and a left leaning break to a wide rail (#3 and #4 Camalot) below the pocketed roof. Use a deep C-shaped pocket to launch to the lip, and do some circus moves to establish on the face above. Climb up and slightly right for about 7m to a semi-hanging stance.
- Pitch 2. 10m (18) Straight up steep face to the ledge, again #3 and #4 Camalot useful.
- Pitch 3. 15m (19) Traverse left along narrow ledge for a few meters, then pull up to some underclings above the slab. Continue traversing left until able to easily pull up to large ledge.
- Pitch 4. 40m (20) Start directly under a narrow roof, at about 10m height, that has two small left pointing flakes. Up to the first break, then to the narrow roof and use the flakes to gain the face above. Tend diagonally right across the face to pass the next larger roof on the right side. Continue tending slightly right and up, just left of the wide arete. Stance in a small right facing corner on the ledge.
- Pitch 5. 30m (19) Climb the corner for about 2m then traverse right and up on rails. On the right edge of the long roof is a thin, left tending finger crack. Pull up into this, and then again tend right across the face to the next ledge. A short wide crack on the right then leads to a blocky ledge. Stance in a right facing corner under a bottomless chimney about 10m up.
- Pitch 6. 15m (20) Climb the short steep cracks to a rectangular roof. Pass this on the right side and then step left into the chimney that leads to the top.
FA: Joe Möhle and Richard Halsey (Nov 2011).
Aqua Spring (22) ***
Start on a large block right behind the water point. Jump for a good rail and then follow the crack system up and through two recesses on the left. At the good rail where the rock above deteriorates in quality, rap from a nut/chock anchor (<30m).
FA: R. Halsey 31/12/11
A deceptively steep wall just to the right of the route Thumbelina. It is easily visible as you walk from Spout cave toward the water point. Approach by scrambling up The Central Route. There may be potential for a route or two more to the right, but they will be brick hard.
Flaming Woozel (24/25) ****
Start off a large, flat boulder more-or-less in the centre of the wall and climb up easily to a break. Follow a slight right leaning groove to a finger rail (small cams). Traverse 1m right and use two short slanted rails and the golf ball to reach the next good rail. Traverse about 2m left until able to pull up to another good rail, and the ledge above. Move slightly right to a darker brown, steep prow and climb the left side till the top.
Consensus grading required, probably harder if you are short.
FA: R. Halsey 12/11/2011
Solitaire wall - Left Side. 1. The Inventor, 2. The Cynic, 3. Go Go Gadget
The left side of the Solitaire wall is easy accessed by the path leading to the water spot. Good warm up area in cold weather.
The Inventor (21) ***
Start up a featured face (just right of the path leading to the water spot) up to the steep orange rock. Pull through some rails and then easily up to a featured layback. At the small ledge, move about 1.5m left and up to a rail. Use good holds on the face to reach the next ledge and follow the short left facing corner to the top.
FA: R. Halsey 6/11/11
The Cynic (18) ***(*)
Climb easily up to the layback from the right. At the ledge traverse left to the blunt arete and climb this to the top.
FA J. Möhle 6/11/11
Go Go Gadget (23) ****
What a little gem! Pull onto the orange face from the boulder and tend slightly right up the steep wall to the narrow overhang. Pull directly through and up a series of flakes to a hand rail to the left of a small roof. Crank onto, and across the roof on good holds in the grey rock, and then tend slightly left to a small ledge. Straight to top.
FA: R. Halsey 7/11/11