Tafelberg - Revision history

Garron: /* Areas */

2013-04-13T20:13:47Z

Areas

Toprope at 09:40, 9 November 2012

2012-11-09T09:40:27Z

Toprope: Replaced content with "This page has been moved into a Category here: :Category:Tafelberg The reason for this is to avoid the page getting too long and to better organise the information."

2012-02-08T05:48:06Z

Replaced content with "This page has been moved into a Category here: Category:Tafelberg The reason for this is to avoid the page getting too long and to better organise the information."

Show changes

Toprope at 05:45, 8 February 2012

2012-02-08T05:45:48Z

Uwe at 09:47, 23 January 2012

2012-01-23T09:47:50Z

Q20: /* New Routes */

2012-01-09T15:45:48Z

New Routes

Show changes

Q20 at 13:46, 18 November 2011

2011-11-18T13:46:55Z

Q20: /* Main Wall */

2011-11-18T12:15:35Z

Main Wall

Ant at 08:02, 14 November 2011

2011-11-14T08:02:13Z

Ant at 07:58, 14 November 2011

2011-11-14T07:58:47Z

@@ Line 46: / Line 46: @@
 * [[Spout]]
 * [[Tafelberg Main Wall]]
 >> Back to [[Cederberg]] page

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:40, 9 November 2012
Line 1:		Line 1:
−	~~This page~~ has ~~been moved into~~ a ~~Category here:~~ [[~~:Category:~~Tafelberg]]	+	{{Infobox Area
−	~~The reason for this is~~ to ~~avoid the~~ page ~~getting too long and to better organise the information.~~	+	\| Latitude = -32.414168
		+	\| Longitude = 19.207091
		+	\| Climbing Type = Multi-pitch Trad
		+	\| Rock Type = Sandstone
		+	\| Season = Summer
		+	\| Province = Western Cape
		+	\| Area = Cederberg
		+
		+	}}
		+
		+	= How to get there =
		+
		+	= Fees & Permits =
		+
		+	= Accommodation & Food =
		+
		+	= Attractions & Activities =
		+
		+	= Map =
		+
		+
		+
		+
		+
		+	= Logistics =
		+
		+	The best information is in the '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' guide book by ''Tony Lourens'', available from most climbing shops.
		+
		+	Just about the best trad climbing around!
		+
		+	= Ethics =
		+
		+	Tafelberg is a pure trad area. '''No bolting is allowed at all'''.
		+
		+	There is an existing bolt and chain at the top of the ascent/descent gulley and (to my knowledge) only one old route (Oscillation) that has an ancient, hand drilled, small bolt. This in no way means that any more bolts may be placed. There are also a few old pitons scattered around but even this is seldom necessary. Modern removable gear allows virtually all climbable parts of Tafelberg to be adequately protected.
		+
		+
		+	== Areas ==
		+
		+	* [[Apathy Wall]]
		+	* [[Big Groove Sector]]
		+	* [[Black Ice Area]]
		+	* [[Descent Gulley]]
		+	* [[Pillar Box]]
		+	* [[Spout]]
		+	* [[Tafelberg Main Wall]]
		+
		+
		+	>> Back to [[Cederberg]] page

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:45, 8 February 2012
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	Hourglass (17) * R. Halsey 23/10/2011		Hourglass (17) * R. Halsey 23/10/2011
	Sundial (15) * U. Pitsch 23/10/2011		Sundial (15) * U. Pitsch 23/10/2011
		+
		+	[[Category:Cederberg]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:47, 23 January 2012
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	'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)		'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)

		+	=== Diced Ice (22) ***** ===
		+
		+	Black Ice Area, Tafelberg
		+
		+	Below the Black Ice route is a trapezoid (triangle with a flat top) shaped roof. Start on the left side of this.
		+
		+	*'''Pitch 1. 50 m (22)''' Climb up 2m to the wide rail under the roof (a friend size 4 or bigger is useful, but not essential), move out leftwards around the corner and continue railing for about 2 meters (strenuous), before thin feet allow you to climb onto the narrow ledge. Alternatively, do a harder (a grade or two) move in the recess at the start of the narrow ledge. From the ledge, continue for about 15m at grade 19 up to a tiny triangular belay ledge just up and right from a small right-facing red corner.
		+	*'''Pitch 2. 25 m (19)''' Continue climbing straight up, doing a stretchy move for a good hold to get through the blank rock band, and continue upwards aiming for the rightward trending layback flake just next to the abseil point.
		+
		+	'''FA''': Uwe Pitsch, Robert Zipplies, 1 January 2012.

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:46, 18 November 2011
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	'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)		'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)
		+
		+
		+
		+	== Big Groove Sector ==
		+
		+
		+	[[Image:groove.jpg\|250px]]
		+
		+	Tafelberg, Big Groove sector. 1. Groove Amandla
		+
		+
		+
		+	=== Groove Amandla (26) **** ===
		+
		+	Big Groove Sector
		+
		+	Amandla! Great stuff. Start about 20m right of ''Big Groove P1'', on some boulders below an obvious V in the roof above.
		+
		+	*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (26)''' The Bugger pitch. Climb the left tending crack to a triangular platform. Move up to the roof and fight your way through the V-shaped break. Climb a few meters further to the blocky ledge and stance several meters left below the two cracks about 1.5m apart.
		+
		+	*'''Pitch 2. 35 m (25)''' The Super pitch. Climb the two left tending cracks each side of a rib to a small roof. Crank through the bulge on the left side of the roof (crux) and up, to gain a narrow ledge with a half-moon shaped feature in the middle. More tricky moves on the short face to the left of the half moon lead you to a large layback flake and crack system above. Stance in a corner below a triangular roof.
		+
		+	*'''Pitch 3. 15m (18)''' The Victory lap. Traverse right and slightly up to the huge flake feature on the right of the wall. Climb up this and the interesting shapes above until you can traverse right below a large rectangular block. Move up and left to exit via a chimney to the top.
		+
		+	Note: Two micro cams (black alien or equivalent) are useful, one to protect each of the crux sections on pitch 2. If you are not up to the challenge of pitch 1, or don't what to be completely exhausted for the rest of the route, you can access the excellent second pitch from ''Big Groove''.
		+
		+	'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Joe Möhle (Nov 2011).
		+
		+
		+	== Spout ==
		+
		+	=== West face ===
		+	[[Image:spout.jpg\|450px]]
		+
		+	Tafelberg, Spout, West Face. 1. Bazooka Rodeo
		+
		+
		+
		+	==== Bazooka Rodeo (25) **** ====
		+
		+	Spout, West Face
		+
		+	A varied route with an improbable start, and then consistently good climbing.
		+	Start about 15m right of ''Dogmatix'', below a pocketed roof.
		+
		+	*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (25)''' Up a short easy wall, and a left leaning break to a wide rail (#3 and #4 Camalot) below the pocketed roof. Use a deep C-shaped pocket to launch to the lip, and do some circus moves to establish on the face above. Climb up and slightly right for about 7m to a semi-hanging stance.
		+
		+	*'''Pitch 2. 10m (18)''' Straight up steep face to the ledge, again #3 and #4 Camalot useful.
		+
		+	*'''Pitch 3. 15m (19)''' Traverse left along narrow ledge for a few meters, then pull up to some underclings above the slab. Continue traversing left until able to easily pull up to large ledge.
		+
		+	*'''Pitch 4. 40m (20)''' Start directly under a narrow roof, at about 10m height, that has two small left pointing flakes. Up to the first break, then to the narrow roof and use the flakes to gain the face above. Tend diagonally right across the face to pass the next larger roof on the right side. Continue tending slightly right and up, just left of the wide arete. Stance in a small right facing corner on the ledge.
		+
		+	*'''Pitch 5. 30m (19)''' Climb the corner for about 2m then traverse right and up on rails. On the right edge of the long roof is a thin, left tending finger crack. Pull up into this, and then again tend right across the face to the next ledge. A short wide crack on the right then leads to a blocky ledge. Stance in a right facing corner under a bottomless chimney about 10m up.
		+
		+	*'''Pitch 6. 15m (20) Climb the short steep cracks to a rectangular roof. Pass this on the right side and then step left into the chimney that leads to the top.
		+
		+	'''FA''': Joe Möhle and Richard Halsey (Nov 2011).
		+
		+
		+
		+	=== Ecstacy Wall ===
		+
		+	A deceptively steep wall just to the right of the route ''Thumbelina''. It is easily visible as you walk from Spout cave toward the water point. Approach by scrambling up ''The Central Route''. There may be potential for a route or two more to the right, but they will be brick hard.
		+
		+	==== Flaming Woozel (24/25) **** ====
		+
		+	Start off a large, flat boulder more-or-less in the centre of the wall and climb up easily to a break. Follow a slight right leaning groove to a finger rail (small cams). Traverse 1m right and use two short slanted rails and the golf ball to reach the next good rail. Traverse about 2m left until able to pull up to another good rail, and the ledge above. Move slightly right to a darker brown, steep prow and climb the left side till the top.
		+
		+	Consensus grading required, probably harder if you are short.
		+
		+	FA: R. Halsey 12/11/2011
		+
		+
		+	=== Solitaire ===
		+
		+	[[Image:solitaire.jpg\|300px]]
		+
		+	Solitaire wall - Left Side. 1. The Inventor, 2. The Cynic, 3. Go Go Gadget
		+
		+
		+	The left side of the Solitaire wall is easy accessed by the path leading to the water spot. Good warm up area in cold weather.
		+
		+	==== The Inventor (21)*** ====
		+	Start up a featured face (just right of the path leading to the water spot) up to the steep orange rock. Pull through some rails and then easily up to a featured layback. At the small ledge, move about 1.5m left and up to a rail. Use good holds on the face to reach the next ledge and follow the short left facing corner to the top.
		+
		+	FA: R. Halsey 6/11/11
		+
		+	==== The Cynic (18)**() ====
		+	Climb easily up to the layback from the right. At the ledge traverse left to the blunt arete and climb this to the top.
		+
		+	FA J. Möhle 6/11/11
		+
		+	==== Go Go Gadget (23)**** ====
		+	What a little gem! Pull onto the orange face from the boulder and tend slightly right up the steep wall to the narrow overhang. Pull directly through and up a series of flakes to a hand rail to the left of a small roof. Crack onto, and across the roof on good holds in the grey rock, and then tend slightly left to a small ledge. Straight to top.
		+
		+	FA: R. Halsey 7/11/11
		+
		+
		+
		+	== Apathy Wall ==
		+	[[Image:apathy.jpg\|680px]]
		+
		+	Apathy wall. 12. Mucho Gusto 13. Shack Shake
		+
		+	Some new route variations:
		+
		+	=== Mucho Gusto (23)*** ===
		+	Climb the 'Africa Shield', move right under the roof, and up the crack on Gusto. Then do the 'Metolius move' left and across the face, up the small corner on Gusto to a narrow ledge. Traverse left at the rail until the blunt arete, and straight up to the top.
		+
		+	R. Halsey 23/10/2011
		+
		+	=== Shack Shake (21)*** ===
		+	Step off the boulder onto the face and climb directly to the Hackaroo layback, then straight up a crack to a small roof. Reach right to another crack, pull up and tend right up a vague corner. Straight to top.
		+
		+	R. Halsey 22/10/2011
		+
		+	<br>Two easy but fun routes on a short face perpendicular and about 30m right of the Apathy wall.
		+	<br>Either rap from a good mushroom to the right of ''Sundial'', or scramble down opposite ''Arete route''.
		+
		+	[[Image:hour.jpg\|200px]]
		+
		+	1. Hourglass 2. Sundial
		+
		+
		+
		+	Hourglass* (17) R. Halsey 23/10/2011
		+	Sundial* (15) U. Pitsch 23/10/2011

@@ Line 19: / Line 19: @@
 [[File:Tafelberg Main Wall Frontal Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Frontal Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Frontal Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). <br>Red = Dithering Heights <br>Blue = The Swan <br>Green = Stargate <br>Yellow = Crouching Tiger Hidden Giraffe <br>Cyan = Vuvuzela]]
 <br>
 === Amarula (23) **** ===
@@ Line 28: / Line 30: @@
 *''' Pitch 3 25m 21''' Aim for the obvious 3m roof with an apparently off-width break. Jam inside the crack, stretch for jugs on the left lip, and make a mind-bending cutloose to finish on easy territory. Stance 5 – 10m above the lip.
 *'''Pitch 4. 50m 18''' Straight, and follow the most appealing line to the top.
 === Make Tea Not War (20) *** ===
@@ Line 144: / Line 147: @@
 '''FA''': Adam Roff and Francie Buhrmann (2008) FFA of Pitch 5: Douw Steyn and Ant Hall (2009)
 == Black Ice Area ==

@@ Line 24: / Line 24: @@
 Takes some golden bulges and a wild roof just right of ‘Ice Tea’. Scramble up one level and find a beach/cave with a diving board (cairn) that offers footing to an undercut start. (Level with the first stance of Ice Tea)
-)	(19, 25m) Step off the diving board onto the wall, up to the roof, traverse right to the thinnest part of the roof, and then continue up to the following ledge. Stance 3m left
+*'''Pitch 1. 25m 19''' Step off the diving board onto the wall, up to the roof, traverse right to the thinnest part of the roof, and then continue up to the following ledge. Stance 3m left
-)	(23, 30m) An undercut start off of two big horns (big pull) Continue slightly right past some rails to the golden bulges, and hand-jam up the right-most crack. Continue up finger cracks on the right to find a long crimp, and use either an undercling above and/or a finger pocket on the left to exit the crux. Continue up for another 10m.
+*'''Pitch 2. 30m 23''' An undercut start off of two big horns (big pull) Continue slightly right past some rails to the golden bulges, and hand-jam up the right-most crack. Continue up finger cracks on the right to find a long crimp, and use either an undercling above and/or a finger pocket on the left to exit the crux. Continue up for another 10m.
-)	(21, 25m) Aim for the obvious 3m roof with an apparently off-width break. Jam inside the crack, stretch for jugs on the left lip, and make a mind-bending cutloose to finish on easy territory. Stance 5 – 10m above the lip.
+*''' Pitch 3 25m 21''' Aim for the obvious 3m roof with an apparently off-width break. Jam inside the crack, stretch for jugs on the left lip, and make a mind-bending cutloose to finish on easy territory. Stance 5 – 10m above the lip.
-)	(18, 50m) Straight, and follow the most appealing line to the top.
+*'''Pitch 4. 50m 18''' Straight, and follow the most appealing line to the top.
 === Make Tea Not War (20) *** ===