The Chosspile - Revision history

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Andrew p: /* Getting there / Access */

2012-10-18T06:10:15Z

Getting there / Access

Andrew p: /* Harry Potter Area */

2012-08-24T12:54:53Z

Harry Potter Area

Pierre.joubert at 13:21, 15 August 2012

2012-08-15T13:21:07Z

Andrew p: /* Harry Potter Area */

2012-08-14T09:39:18Z

Harry Potter Area

Andrew p: /* Harry Potter Area */

2012-07-25T11:50:33Z

Harry Potter Area

Andrew p: /* THE MAN CAVE */

2012-07-25T11:50:00Z

THE MAN CAVE

Andrew p: /* Harry Potter Area */

2012-07-25T11:48:55Z

Harry Potter Area

Andrew p: /* Harry Potter Area */

2012-07-25T11:48:16Z

Harry Potter Area

Andrew p: /* Harry Potter Area */

2012-07-25T11:47:15Z

Harry Potter Area

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 *[http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=7030 Choss Work Meet this Sunday 22 may 2011 (and re-opening notice)]
-<b>A meeting was held with Ampie</b>, the manager of Mount Amanzi (MA) on the 29 Jan 2012. The access is still solid and if anything has improved. MA have 2 employees acting as car guards on alternate weekends.
+Updated October 2012:
-The MCSA (JHB Section) continues to pay R400 per month which is split between the car guards with the R5 per car fee as before.<br>
-The guards will also wear bibs with MCSA logo to identify them better.
-<b>New number for MA: 012 381 5400</b>.
-Plans are in place to have climbers park in a designated area inside the resort and cross a wide still section of the Crocodile river via a pull yourself across float/barge and then from the other side walk up to the climbing. This will eliminate all gate issues, parking will be more secure, a bit more fun in the package with a added gentle arm warm up, but the approach will take a bit longer. The guard will still be there with his radio. The idea behind this is that MA want to expand what is on offer to their guests, so that guided groups of walkers will be coming across the river and up past the climbing (Including Lord of the rings area) at least twice a day. We must understand that they have their interests to also consider and we have to share the crag as it is not ours.
+Mt Amanzi do not own the land, it is owned by Rissk Estates who agreed to continue to provide acccess to climbers IF the land is rented and the access is controlled. A fence was put up around the land and the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) - spear-headed by Neil Margetts - negotiated a solution whereby Mt Amanzi rent the property from Rissik and control access. There are are some benefits to them in that they do not now have a mass of partyers and crime accross the river from the resort and the residents of the resort can hike up the Chospile mountain. This highlights an important point; Mt Amanzi are not renting the property solely so we can climb, we are secondary. Even if there were 300 climbers a month they are making a loss. For this reason, we do not have too much leverage in climber access discussions, if we are more trouble than we are worth they can close it to us. This is one of the reasons they are insisting that everyone who enters is with an MCSA or University climbing club member as this is reassurance to them that all people entering are responsible and climb safely.
 The owners of the crag (Mr Bezuidenhout of Rissik Estates) is <b>adamant that nobody must trespass onto the land from the dam wall side</b>  Legal action will be taken against anyone who does.  Please adhere to this rule to avoid unnecessary trouble and considerably jeopardise future access and seriously piss off for the majority of the Gauteng climbing community.
-'''Procedure for climbers or walkers at Chosspile'''
-* Every person must first report to Mount Amanzi and sign the indemnity
-* Every person must pay R30 (Those who want full access to all facilities of Mount Amanzi such as heated pool, restaurant etc. pay R55, see www.mountamanzi.co.za)
-* Those who buy year passes must have their name on the list. Their pass expires when the date expires.
-* Every person must be a member or accompany a member of one of the following clubs who must show the membership card with current date sticker on reverse:
-** Mountain Club of South Africa
-** South African National Climbing Federation
-** University Student Card with their climbing club sticker on the reverse of the current year. (Pretoria Univ, WITS, UJ, Potch Univ, UKZN, Rhodes, UCT )
-*** Note: These university clubs can gain free entrance if they take groups of under privileged people climbing. They also get a number of free entrance credits. This must be arranged in advance with Mount Amanzi.
-* Each member may take one guest, who must also sign and pay R30.
-* There is a guard at the crags who gets R5 per visitor, you may tip him additionally if you wish.
 Please stick to these rules to keep the access open and the crag safe.

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:54, 24 August 2012
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	'''VIOLENT STREAK 32***** [7D,A]'''<br>		'''VIOLENT STREAK 32***** [7D,A]'''<br>
−	Attacks the grey water streak you can see for miles. Scramble to the top of the chossy pillar then power up and pull on. More moves per meter than a Jacky Chan movie, all aggressive. "Widely" regarded as the best sport climb within 2 hours of Joburg! First Ascent: Andrew Pedley, August 2012.	+	Attacks the grey water streak you can see for miles. Scramble to the top of the chossy pillar then power up and pull on. On the FA the first 3 bolts were pre-clipped. More moves per meter than a Jacky Chan movie, all aggressive. "Widely" regarded as the best sport climb within 2 hours of Joburg! Could be 31, needs a repeat. First Ascent: Andrew Pedley, August 2012.

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 == Gear ==
 Sport Rack & 50m rope
-The Chosspile is a crag above the Hartebeespoort Dam wall. Unlike the crag's name there is actually good rock here with fine routes. The rock is a hard sandstone, semi quartsitic. There is a bit of a slog to walk in to the crag but you will have plenty shade in the trees at the base of the cliff. The sun leaves most of the face by early morning.
+The Chosspile is a crag above the Hartebeespoort Dam wall. Unlike the crag's name there is actually good rock here with fine routes. The rock is a hard sandstone, semi quartzitic. There is a bit of a slog to walk in to the crag but you will have plenty shade in the trees at the base of the cliff. The sun leaves most of the face by early morning.
 == Getting there / Access ==
@@ Line 26: / Line 26: @@
 Plans are in place to have climbers park in a designated area inside the resort and cross a wide still section of the Crocodile river via a pull yourself across float/barge and then from the other side walk up to the climbing. This will eliminate all gate issues, parking will be more secure, a bit more fun in the package with a added gentle arm warm up, but the approach will take a bit longer. The guard will still be there with his radio. The idea behind this is that MA want to expand what is on offer to their guests, so that guided groups of walkers will be coming across the river and up past the climbing (Including Lord of the rings area) at least twice a day. We must understand that they have their interests to also consider and we have to share the crag as it is not ours.
-The owners of the crag (Mr Bezhuidenhout of Rissic Estates) is <b>adamant that nobody must trespass onto the land from the dam wall side</b>  Legal action will be taken against anyone who does.  Please adhere to this rule to avoid unnecessary trouble and considerably jeopardise future access and seriously piss off for the majority of the Gauteng climbing community.
+The owners of the crag (Mr Bezuidenhout of Rissik Estates) is <b>adamant that nobody must trespass onto the land from the dam wall side</b>  Legal action will be taken against anyone who does.  Please adhere to this rule to avoid unnecessary trouble and considerably jeopardise future access and seriously piss off for the majority of the Gauteng climbing community.
 '''Procedure for climbers or walkers at Chosspile'''
@@ Line 63: / Line 63: @@
 '''== '''THE MAN CAVE''' =='''
-This is the obvious very steep section you will arrive at first, at the left end of the crag. At the time of writing there are only two climbs here, both open projects.
+This is the obvious very steep section you will arrive at first, at the left end of the crag. At the time of writing there are only two climbs here, one an open project and an 8b.
 '''THE MAN-OMETER TRAVERSE	33+?
-An open project bolted by Andrew Pedley (June/July 2012), gains and tackles the rising flake line accross the roof. Extremely burly, a real measure of man (or wonam!).still needs a few bolts towards the end of the climb.
+An open project bolted by Andrew Pedley (June/July 2012), gains and tackles the rising flake line across the roof. Extremely burly, a real measure of man (or woman!). Still needs a few bolts towards the end of the climb.
 '''VIOLENT STREAK	32***** [7D,A]'''<br>
-Attacks the grey water streak you can see for miles. Stcramble to the top of the chossy pillar then power up and pull on. More moves per metre than a Jacky Chan movie, all agressive. "Widely" regarded as the best sport climb within 2 hours of joburg! First Acsent: Andrew Pedley, August 2012.
+Attacks the grey water streak you can see for miles. Scramble to the top of the chossy pillar then power up and pull on. More moves per meter than a Jacky Chan movie, all aggressive. "Widely" regarded as the best sport climb within 2 hours of Joburg! First Ascent: Andrew Pedley, August 2012.
-There is opportunity to add several other lines at thi scrag, probably between 32 and 38...
+There is opportunity to add several other lines at this scrag, probably between 32 and 38...

@@ Line 68: / Line 68: @@
 An open project bolted by Andrew Pedley (June/July 2012), gains and tackles the rising flake line accross the roof. Extremely burly, a real measure of man (or wonam!).still needs a few bolts towards the end of the climb.
-'''VIOLENT STREAK	33?
+'''VIOLENT STREAK	32***** [7D,A]'''<br>
-An open project bolted by Andrew Pedley (June/July 2012). Attacks the grey water streak you can see for miles. More moves per metre than a Jacky Chan movie, all agressive. A contender for the best hard line at Chos.
+Attacks the grey water streak you can see for miles. Stcramble to the top of the chossy pillar then power up and pull on. More moves per metre than a Jacky Chan movie, all agressive. "Widely" regarded as the best sport climb within 2 hours of joburg! First Acsent: Andrew Pedley, August 2012.
 There is opportunity to add several other lines at thi scrag, probably between 32 and 38...

@@ Line 72: / Line 72: @@
 There is opportunity to add several other lines at thi scrag, probably between 32 and 38...
 '''== '''HARRY POTTERS PROPER''' =='''
 Walk a few metres rightwards from the Man Cave and you will arrive at:

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 == Harry Potter Area ==
-This is the leftmost part of The Chosspile. It lies uphill from the ablutions as you drive into the usual parking spot. The best way to reach the Harry Potter area is to walk to the dam end of the car parking in the picnic area, then take the path which traverses uphill and left, taking you alongside a concrete sluice channel. Don't go along the level path at the end of the parking area. You should be going uphill and left. After approx. 100m you will see a plank bridge over the concrete channel. Cross this and head upwards. After 20m turn '''left'''<br> at a T-junction in the path which will take you over a stony, dried-up watercourse. Follow this path as you go up the hill to the crag. You can top out at three sites along the crag, depending where you want to be. Take the middle path first which brings you out at the classic Slitherin (14), then you'll learn where the others end up.
+This is the leftmost part of The Chosspile. It lies uphill from the ablutions as you drive into the usual parking spot. The best way to reach the Harry Potter area is to walk to the dam end of the car parking in the picnic area, then take the path which traverses uphill and left, taking you alongside a concrete sluice channel. Don't go along the level path at the end of the parking area. You should be going uphill and left. After approx. 100m you will see a plank bridge over the concrete channel. Cross this and head upwards, following the well worn path which arrives at the extreme Left of the crag at the obvious big steep cave aka 'The Man Cave'
-Rory Lowther, Roland Magg, Debbie Mulder and Neill Margetts have been developing this lower section to the Chosspile. The best climbing is done in the morning before the crag gets the afternoon sun.
 th January 2010:   The route guide below has been unchanged for some time. New routes have appeared at the crag and have and not been added to this guide. There is some confusion about grades and in places, even about which climb is which. Today's edit is intended to help with this and also to suggest some consensus grade changes. The grades have been discussed with the author of the forthcoming new guide to this area. Grade suggestions are shown after the current name and grade. This Wiki guide should not, however, be taken as definitive. Wait for the new guide, then start arguing about it!
 Climbs are described left to right.
 '''DRAKO 	24 ** [7D,A]'''<br>
-. 	21 [7D,A] ** The route starts on the right of the big Roof, scramble up easy rock to first bolt then climb slightly right to first stance on ledge just below roof. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.
+. 	21 [7D,A] ** The route starts on the right of the Man Cave, scramble up easy rock to first bolt then climb slightly right to first stance on ledge just below roof. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.
 . 	21 [7D,A] Continue through small roof by doing an early crux move, finish the route with 15m easy climbing to chains.
 On 50m rope do two abseils to ground or two 50m will make it from top to ground.