Thunderbolt

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(New page: == '''Thunderbolt - Witteberg **** Grade G1''' == H Graafland and M Scott 1967 A bold route for summer days, strong arms, and good nerves. '''Start''' The start of the route is the s...)
 
 
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== '''Thunderbolt - Witteberg **** Grade G1''' ==
 
== '''Thunderbolt - Witteberg **** Grade G1''' ==
  
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'''Description'''
 
'''Description'''
  
30m “F1”.  Climb the left hand variation to the first pitch of “Exposure”.
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* P1: 30m 13/14.  Climb the left hand variation to the first pitch of “Exposure”.
80m “B/C”.  Scramble along the ledge to the left and climb, via a short chimney/crack to the top of a pillar next to a tree.
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* P2: 80m B/C.  Scramble along the ledge to the left and climb, via a short chimney/crack to the top of a pillar next to a tree.
20m “F2 M1”.  From the pillar move up 5 metres then right (2 pitons) and pull up to a handrail.  Continue right to the stance.
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* P3: 20m 15 A1.  From the pillar move up 5 metres then right (2 pitons) and pull up to a handrail.  Continue right to the stance.
18m “F2”.  Climb straight up, then move slightly left and climb up to a ledge.  Traverse left to a point directly above the start of pitch (1).
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* P4: 18m 15.  Climb straight up, then move slightly left and climb up to a ledge.  Traverse left to a point directly above the start of pitch (1).
25m “G1”.  Pull up through a small overhang then move left.  Climb up the recess (6 metres) then swing right to a small ledge.  Climb up a shallow recess, past the overhang, then move right to reach a corner.  Layback up to a small stance.
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* P5: 25m 18/19.  Pull up through a small overhang then move left.  Climb up the recess (6 metres) then swing right to a small ledge.  Climb up a shallow recess, past the overhang, then move right to reach a corner.  Layback up to a small stance.
35m “F2”.  Traverse left around a corner (12 metres), then diagonally up left to a niche.  Move up to the right then back left to a small stance.  Climb up a jam crack to a better stance (3 metres).
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* P6: 35m 14/15.  Traverse left around a corner (12 metres), then diagonally up left to a niche.  Move up to the right then back left to a small stance.  Climb up a jam crack to a better stance (3 metres).
15m “F1”.  Move up a recess to brown flakes then up a jam-layback on the left.  Move up via large flakes to a stance.
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* P7: 15m 13/14.  Move up a recess to brown flakes then up a jam-layback on the left.  Move up via large flakes to a stance.
25m “F1”.  Walk left to the end of the ledge, then traverse around a bulge to a ledge at the bottom of a gully.
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* P8: 25m 13/14.  Walk left to the end of the ledge, then traverse around a bulge to a ledge at the bottom of a gully.
50m “E1”.  Move left into a chimney, ascend this and move out into an open gully.
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* P9: 50m 9.  Move left into a chimney, ascend this and move out into an open gully.
20m “E1”.  From the block indicating the start of a traverse to the right, step down and continue right and climb up to a grassy ledge.
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* P10: 20m 9.  From the block indicating the start of a traverse to the right, step down and continue right and climb up to a grassy ledge.
24m “F1”.  Climb a grassy groove and step right at the top.  Climb up to an overhang which is side-stepped to the left.
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* P11: 24m 12/13.  Climb a grassy groove and step right at the top.  Climb up to an overhang which is side-stepped to the left.
22m “F2”.  Climb a V-groove to a creaking block at the back of a crack, swing right on tiny footgrips and pull up onto a small flat ledge.  Continue up via a nose to the right to a small stance.
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* P12: 22m 14/15.  Climb a V-groove to a creaking block at the back of a crack, swing right on tiny footgrips and pull up onto a small flat ledge.  Continue up via a nose to the right to a small stance.
16m “F2”.  From the stance swing down to footgrips below a slab.  Climb the slab into a scoop.  Traverse right across the scoop, step down, cross a crack and up on a rib to the right to a small stance.
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* P13: 16m 14/15.  From the stance swing down to footgrips below a slab.  Climb the slab into a scoop.  Traverse right across the scoop, step down, cross a crack and up on a rib to the right to a small stance.
18m “D”.  Traverse right around a bulging corner.
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* P14: 18m “D”.  Traverse right around a bulging corner.
25m “F1”.  Step down, traverse right to a spectacular corner (“E1”), then up via a smooth hand-jam crack to a stance.
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* P15: 25m 12/13.  Step down, traverse right to a spectacular corner, then up via a smooth hand-jam crack to a stance.
32m “E2”.  Climb a watershoot-type ramp to a small stance below a bottomless crack breaking through an overhang above.
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* P16: 32m 10.  Climb a watershoot-type ramp to a small stance below a bottomless crack breaking through an overhang above.
23m “F2”.  Climb the crack to below an overhang, step down onto the corner on the right, move around this up past a ledge and up the face above.  Traverse left to an exposed corner and up via a crack to a stance.
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* P17: 23m 14/15.  Climb the crack to below an overhang, step down onto the corner on the right, move around this up past a ledge and up the face above.  Traverse left to an exposed corner and up via a crack to a stance.
35m “D/E”.  Traverse somewhat left and climb more or less straight up to the top.
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* P18: 35m 8/9.  Traverse somewhat left and climb more or less straight up to the top.

Latest revision as of 14:30, 2 December 2009

Thunderbolt - Witteberg **** Grade G1

H Graafland and M Scott 1967

A bold route for summer days, strong arms, and good nerves.

Start

The start of the route is the same as that for Exposure in F Major.

Description

  • P1: 30m 13/14. Climb the left hand variation to the first pitch of “Exposure”.
  • P2: 80m B/C. Scramble along the ledge to the left and climb, via a short chimney/crack to the top of a pillar next to a tree.
  • P3: 20m 15 A1. From the pillar move up 5 metres then right (2 pitons) and pull up to a handrail. Continue right to the stance.
  • P4: 18m 15. Climb straight up, then move slightly left and climb up to a ledge. Traverse left to a point directly above the start of pitch (1).
  • P5: 25m 18/19. Pull up through a small overhang then move left. Climb up the recess (6 metres) then swing right to a small ledge. Climb up a shallow recess, past the overhang, then move right to reach a corner. Layback up to a small stance.
  • P6: 35m 14/15. Traverse left around a corner (12 metres), then diagonally up left to a niche. Move up to the right then back left to a small stance. Climb up a jam crack to a better stance (3 metres).
  • P7: 15m 13/14. Move up a recess to brown flakes then up a jam-layback on the left. Move up via large flakes to a stance.
  • P8: 25m 13/14. Walk left to the end of the ledge, then traverse around a bulge to a ledge at the bottom of a gully.
  • P9: 50m 9. Move left into a chimney, ascend this and move out into an open gully.
  • P10: 20m 9. From the block indicating the start of a traverse to the right, step down and continue right and climb up to a grassy ledge.
  • P11: 24m 12/13. Climb a grassy groove and step right at the top. Climb up to an overhang which is side-stepped to the left.
  • P12: 22m 14/15. Climb a V-groove to a creaking block at the back of a crack, swing right on tiny footgrips and pull up onto a small flat ledge. Continue up via a nose to the right to a small stance.
  • P13: 16m 14/15. From the stance swing down to footgrips below a slab. Climb the slab into a scoop. Traverse right across the scoop, step down, cross a crack and up on a rib to the right to a small stance.
  • P14: 18m “D”. Traverse right around a bulging corner.
  • P15: 25m 12/13. Step down, traverse right to a spectacular corner, then up via a smooth hand-jam crack to a stance.
  • P16: 32m 10. Climb a watershoot-type ramp to a small stance below a bottomless crack breaking through an overhang above.
  • P17: 23m 14/15. Climb the crack to below an overhang, step down onto the corner on the right, move around this up past a ledge and up the face above. Traverse left to an exposed corner and up via a crack to a stance.
  • P18: 35m 8/9. Traverse somewhat left and climb more or less straight up to the top.
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