Thunderbolt
From South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki
(Difference between revisions)
(New page: == '''Thunderbolt - Witteberg **** Grade G1''' == H Graafland and M Scott 1967 A bold route for summer days, strong arms, and good nerves. '''Start''' The start of the route is the s...) |
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== '''Thunderbolt - Witteberg **** Grade G1''' == | == '''Thunderbolt - Witteberg **** Grade G1''' == | ||
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'''Description''' | '''Description''' | ||
| − | 30m | + | * P1: 30m 13/14. Climb the left hand variation to the first pitch of “Exposure”. |
| − | 80m | + | * P2: 80m B/C. Scramble along the ledge to the left and climb, via a short chimney/crack to the top of a pillar next to a tree. |
| − | 20m | + | * P3: 20m 15 A1. From the pillar move up 5 metres then right (2 pitons) and pull up to a handrail. Continue right to the stance. |
| − | 18m | + | * P4: 18m 15. Climb straight up, then move slightly left and climb up to a ledge. Traverse left to a point directly above the start of pitch (1). |
| − | 25m | + | * P5: 25m 18/19. Pull up through a small overhang then move left. Climb up the recess (6 metres) then swing right to a small ledge. Climb up a shallow recess, past the overhang, then move right to reach a corner. Layback up to a small stance. |
| − | 35m | + | * P6: 35m 14/15. Traverse left around a corner (12 metres), then diagonally up left to a niche. Move up to the right then back left to a small stance. Climb up a jam crack to a better stance (3 metres). |
| − | 15m | + | * P7: 15m 13/14. Move up a recess to brown flakes then up a jam-layback on the left. Move up via large flakes to a stance. |
| − | 25m | + | * P8: 25m 13/14. Walk left to the end of the ledge, then traverse around a bulge to a ledge at the bottom of a gully. |
| − | 50m | + | * P9: 50m 9. Move left into a chimney, ascend this and move out into an open gully. |
| − | 20m | + | * P10: 20m 9. From the block indicating the start of a traverse to the right, step down and continue right and climb up to a grassy ledge. |
| − | 24m | + | * P11: 24m 12/13. Climb a grassy groove and step right at the top. Climb up to an overhang which is side-stepped to the left. |
| − | 22m | + | * P12: 22m 14/15. Climb a V-groove to a creaking block at the back of a crack, swing right on tiny footgrips and pull up onto a small flat ledge. Continue up via a nose to the right to a small stance. |
| − | 16m | + | * P13: 16m 14/15. From the stance swing down to footgrips below a slab. Climb the slab into a scoop. Traverse right across the scoop, step down, cross a crack and up on a rib to the right to a small stance. |
| − | 18m “D”. Traverse right around a bulging corner. | + | * P14: 18m “D”. Traverse right around a bulging corner. |
| − | 25m | + | * P15: 25m 12/13. Step down, traverse right to a spectacular corner, then up via a smooth hand-jam crack to a stance. |
| − | 32m | + | * P16: 32m 10. Climb a watershoot-type ramp to a small stance below a bottomless crack breaking through an overhang above. |
| − | 23m | + | * P17: 23m 14/15. Climb the crack to below an overhang, step down onto the corner on the right, move around this up past a ledge and up the face above. Traverse left to an exposed corner and up via a crack to a stance. |
| − | 35m | + | * P18: 35m 8/9. Traverse somewhat left and climb more or less straight up to the top. |
Latest revision as of 14:30, 2 December 2009
Thunderbolt - Witteberg **** Grade G1
H Graafland and M Scott 1967
A bold route for summer days, strong arms, and good nerves.
Start
The start of the route is the same as that for Exposure in F Major.
Description
- P1: 30m 13/14. Climb the left hand variation to the first pitch of “Exposure”.
- P2: 80m B/C. Scramble along the ledge to the left and climb, via a short chimney/crack to the top of a pillar next to a tree.
- P3: 20m 15 A1. From the pillar move up 5 metres then right (2 pitons) and pull up to a handrail. Continue right to the stance.
- P4: 18m 15. Climb straight up, then move slightly left and climb up to a ledge. Traverse left to a point directly above the start of pitch (1).
- P5: 25m 18/19. Pull up through a small overhang then move left. Climb up the recess (6 metres) then swing right to a small ledge. Climb up a shallow recess, past the overhang, then move right to reach a corner. Layback up to a small stance.
- P6: 35m 14/15. Traverse left around a corner (12 metres), then diagonally up left to a niche. Move up to the right then back left to a small stance. Climb up a jam crack to a better stance (3 metres).
- P7: 15m 13/14. Move up a recess to brown flakes then up a jam-layback on the left. Move up via large flakes to a stance.
- P8: 25m 13/14. Walk left to the end of the ledge, then traverse around a bulge to a ledge at the bottom of a gully.
- P9: 50m 9. Move left into a chimney, ascend this and move out into an open gully.
- P10: 20m 9. From the block indicating the start of a traverse to the right, step down and continue right and climb up to a grassy ledge.
- P11: 24m 12/13. Climb a grassy groove and step right at the top. Climb up to an overhang which is side-stepped to the left.
- P12: 22m 14/15. Climb a V-groove to a creaking block at the back of a crack, swing right on tiny footgrips and pull up onto a small flat ledge. Continue up via a nose to the right to a small stance.
- P13: 16m 14/15. From the stance swing down to footgrips below a slab. Climb the slab into a scoop. Traverse right across the scoop, step down, cross a crack and up on a rib to the right to a small stance.
- P14: 18m “D”. Traverse right around a bulging corner.
- P15: 25m 12/13. Step down, traverse right to a spectacular corner, then up via a smooth hand-jam crack to a stance.
- P16: 32m 10. Climb a watershoot-type ramp to a small stance below a bottomless crack breaking through an overhang above.
- P17: 23m 14/15. Climb the crack to below an overhang, step down onto the corner on the right, move around this up past a ledge and up the face above. Traverse left to an exposed corner and up via a crack to a stance.
- P18: 35m 8/9. Traverse somewhat left and climb more or less straight up to the top.
