Xmod at 12:30, 2 December 2009

2009-12-02T12:30:11Z

Xmod: New page: == '''Thunderbolt - Witteberg **** Grade G1''' == H Graafland and M Scott 1967 A bold route for summer days, strong arms, and good nerves. '''Start''' The start of the route is the s...

2009-11-30T11:05:53Z

New page: == '''Thunderbolt - Witteberg **** Grade G1''' == H Graafland and M Scott 1967 A bold route for summer days, strong arms, and good nerves. '''Start''' The start of the route is the s...

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== '''Thunderbolt - Witteberg **** Grade G1''' ==

H Graafland and M Scott 1967

A bold route for summer days, strong arms, and good nerves.

'''Start'''

The start of the route is the same as that for Exposure in F Major.

'''Description'''

30m “F1”. Climb the left hand variation to the first pitch of “Exposure”.
80m “B/C”. Scramble along the ledge to the left and climb, via a short chimney/crack to the top of a pillar next to a tree.
20m “F2 M1”. From the pillar move up 5 metres then right (2 pitons) and pull up to a handrail. Continue right to the stance.
18m “F2”. Climb straight up, then move slightly left and climb up to a ledge. Traverse left to a point directly above the start of pitch (1).
25m “G1”. Pull up through a small overhang then move left. Climb up the recess (6 metres) then swing right to a small ledge. Climb up a shallow recess, past the overhang, then move right to reach a corner. Layback up to a small stance.
35m “F2”. Traverse left around a corner (12 metres), then diagonally up left to a niche. Move up to the right then back left to a small stance. Climb up a jam crack to a better stance (3 metres).
15m “F1”. Move up a recess to brown flakes then up a jam-layback on the left. Move up via large flakes to a stance.
25m “F1”. Walk left to the end of the ledge, then traverse around a bulge to a ledge at the bottom of a gully.
50m “E1”. Move left into a chimney, ascend this and move out into an open gully.
20m “E1”. From the block indicating the start of a traverse to the right, step down and continue right and climb up to a grassy ledge.
24m “F1”. Climb a grassy groove and step right at the top. Climb up to an overhang which is side-stepped to the left.
22m “F2”. Climb a V-groove to a creaking block at the back of a crack, swing right on tiny footgrips and pull up onto a small flat ledge. Continue up via a nose to the right to a small stance.
16m “F2”. From the stance swing down to footgrips below a slab. Climb the slab into a scoop. Traverse right across the scoop, step down, cross a crack and up on a rib to the right to a small stance.
18m “D”. Traverse right around a bulging corner.
25m “F1”. Step down, traverse right to a spectacular corner (“E1”), then up via a smooth hand-jam crack to a stance.
32m “E2”. Climb a watershoot-type ramp to a small stance below a bottomless crack breaking through an overhang above.
23m “F2”. Climb the crack to below an overhang, step down onto the corner on the right, move around this up past a ledge and up the face above. Traverse left to an exposed corner and up via a crack to a stance.
35m “D/E”. Traverse somewhat left and climb more or less straight up to the top.

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 == '''Thunderbolt - Witteberg **** Grade G1''' ==
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 '''Description'''
-m “F1”.  Climb the left hand variation to the first pitch of “Exposure”.
+* P1: 30m 13/14.  Climb the left hand variation to the first pitch of “Exposure”.
-m “B/C”.  Scramble along the ledge to the left and climb, via a short chimney/crack to the top of a pillar next to a tree.
+* P2: 80m B/C.  Scramble along the ledge to the left and climb, via a short chimney/crack to the top of a pillar next to a tree.
-m “F2 M1”.  From the pillar move up 5 metres then right (2 pitons) and pull up to a handrail.  Continue right to the stance.
+* P3: 20m 15 A1.  From the pillar move up 5 metres then right (2 pitons) and pull up to a handrail.  Continue right to the stance.
-m “F2”.  Climb straight up, then move slightly left and climb up to a ledge.  Traverse left to a point directly above the start of pitch (1).
+* P4: 18m 15.  Climb straight up, then move slightly left and climb up to a ledge.  Traverse left to a point directly above the start of pitch (1).
-m “G1”.  Pull up through a small overhang then move left.  Climb up the recess (6 metres) then swing right to a small ledge.  Climb up a shallow recess, past the overhang, then move right to reach a corner.  Layback up to a small stance.
+* P5: 25m 18/19.  Pull up through a small overhang then move left.  Climb up the recess (6 metres) then swing right to a small ledge.  Climb up a shallow recess, past the overhang, then move right to reach a corner.  Layback up to a small stance.
-m “F2”.  Traverse left around a corner (12 metres), then diagonally up left to a niche.  Move up to the right then back left to a small stance.  Climb up a jam crack to a better stance (3 metres).
+* P6: 35m 14/15.  Traverse left around a corner (12 metres), then diagonally up left to a niche.  Move up to the right then back left to a small stance.  Climb up a jam crack to a better stance (3 metres).
-m “F1”.  Move up a recess to brown flakes then up a jam-layback on the left.  Move up via large flakes to a stance.
+* P7: 15m 13/14.  Move up a recess to brown flakes then up a jam-layback on the left.  Move up via large flakes to a stance.
-m “F1”.  Walk left to the end of the ledge, then traverse around a bulge to a ledge at the bottom of a gully.
+* P8: 25m 13/14.  Walk left to the end of the ledge, then traverse around a bulge to a ledge at the bottom of a gully.
-m “E1”.  Move left into a chimney, ascend this and move out into an open gully.
+* P9: 50m 9.  Move left into a chimney, ascend this and move out into an open gully.
-m “E1”.  From the block indicating the start of a traverse to the right, step down and continue right and climb up to a grassy ledge.
+* P10: 20m 9.  From the block indicating the start of a traverse to the right, step down and continue right and climb up to a grassy ledge.
-m “F1”.  Climb a grassy groove and step right at the top.  Climb up to an overhang which is side-stepped to the left.
+* P11: 24m 12/13.  Climb a grassy groove and step right at the top.  Climb up to an overhang which is side-stepped to the left.
-m “F2”.  Climb a V-groove to a creaking block at the back of a crack, swing right on tiny footgrips and pull up onto a small flat ledge.  Continue up via a nose to the right to a small stance.
+* P12: 22m 14/15.  Climb a V-groove to a creaking block at the back of a crack, swing right on tiny footgrips and pull up onto a small flat ledge.  Continue up via a nose to the right to a small stance.
-m “F2”.  From the stance swing down to footgrips below a slab.  Climb the slab into a scoop.  Traverse right across the scoop, step down, cross a crack and up on a rib to the right to a small stance.
+* P13: 16m 14/15.  From the stance swing down to footgrips below a slab.  Climb the slab into a scoop.  Traverse right across the scoop, step down, cross a crack and up on a rib to the right to a small stance.
-m “D”.  Traverse right around a bulging corner.
+* P14: 18m “D”.  Traverse right around a bulging corner.
-m “F1”.  Step down, traverse right to a spectacular corner (“E1”), then up via a smooth hand-jam crack to a stance.
+* P15: 25m 12/13.  Step down, traverse right to a spectacular corner, then up via a smooth hand-jam crack to a stance.
-m “E2”.  Climb a watershoot-type ramp to a small stance below a bottomless crack breaking through an overhang above.
+* P16: 32m 10.  Climb a watershoot-type ramp to a small stance below a bottomless crack breaking through an overhang above.
-m “F2”.  Climb the crack to below an overhang, step down onto the corner on the right, move around this up past a ledge and up the face above.  Traverse left to an exposed corner and up via a crack to a stance.
+* P17: 23m 14/15.  Climb the crack to below an overhang, step down onto the corner on the right, move around this up past a ledge and up the face above.  Traverse left to an exposed corner and up via a crack to a stance.
-m “D/E”.  Traverse somewhat left and climb more or less straight up to the top.
+* P18: 35m 8/9.  Traverse somewhat left and climb more or less straight up to the top.

Thunderbolt - Revision history

Xmod at 12:30, 2 December 2009

Xmod: New page: == '''Thunderbolt - Witteberg **** Grade G1''' == H Graafland and M Scott 1967 A bold route for summer days, strong arms, and good nerves. '''Start''' The start of the route is the s...