Thunderbolt

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Thunderbolt - Witteberg **** Grade G1

H Graafland and M Scott 1967

A bold route for summer days, strong arms, and good nerves.

Start

The start of the route is the same as that for Exposure in F Major.

Description

30m “F1”. Climb the left hand variation to the first pitch of “Exposure”. 80m “B/C”. Scramble along the ledge to the left and climb, via a short chimney/crack to the top of a pillar next to a tree. 20m “F2 M1”. From the pillar move up 5 metres then right (2 pitons) and pull up to a handrail. Continue right to the stance. 18m “F2”. Climb straight up, then move slightly left and climb up to a ledge. Traverse left to a point directly above the start of pitch (1). 25m “G1”. Pull up through a small overhang then move left. Climb up the recess (6 metres) then swing right to a small ledge. Climb up a shallow recess, past the overhang, then move right to reach a corner. Layback up to a small stance. 35m “F2”. Traverse left around a corner (12 metres), then diagonally up left to a niche. Move up to the right then back left to a small stance. Climb up a jam crack to a better stance (3 metres). 15m “F1”. Move up a recess to brown flakes then up a jam-layback on the left. Move up via large flakes to a stance. 25m “F1”. Walk left to the end of the ledge, then traverse around a bulge to a ledge at the bottom of a gully. 50m “E1”. Move left into a chimney, ascend this and move out into an open gully. 20m “E1”. From the block indicating the start of a traverse to the right, step down and continue right and climb up to a grassy ledge. 24m “F1”. Climb a grassy groove and step right at the top. Climb up to an overhang which is side-stepped to the left. 22m “F2”. Climb a V-groove to a creaking block at the back of a crack, swing right on tiny footgrips and pull up onto a small flat ledge. Continue up via a nose to the right to a small stance. 16m “F2”. From the stance swing down to footgrips below a slab. Climb the slab into a scoop. Traverse right across the scoop, step down, cross a crack and up on a rib to the right to a small stance. 18m “D”. Traverse right around a bulging corner. 25m “F1”. Step down, traverse right to a spectacular corner (“E1”), then up via a smooth hand-jam crack to a stance. 32m “E2”. Climb a watershoot-type ramp to a small stance below a bottomless crack breaking through an overhang above. 23m “F2”. Climb the crack to below an overhang, step down onto the corner on the right, move around this up past a ledge and up the face above. Traverse left to an exposed corner and up via a crack to a stance. 35m “D/E”. Traverse somewhat left and climb more or less straight up to the top.