Revision as of 09:27, 14 March 2013

This is a list of the best trad routes in South Africa: any grade, anything goes, can have a bolt here or there but must be primarily trad.

(I'm going to keep on editing my list (below) with suggestions that are made at http://www.climb.co.za/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2961
Alternatively, log in to add to the list.

Wolfberg

• Energy Crisis (20)
• Celestial Journey (22)
• Alone in Space (22)
• Eclipse (13)
• Knobless Robot (18)
• Satisfaction Guaranteed (19)

Tafelberg

• Big Groove (20)
• Comes a Time (20)
• Baboon Speak (21)
• Rooibosch (18)
• Pillar Box Standard Route (17)
• Woodrow Arete (18)

Krakadouw

• King Kong 21/22
• Ichthyasaurus 21/22
• Austrolopethicus

Table Mountain

• Triple Indirect
• Jacobs Ladder 17
• Roulette 19
• African Lunch 23
• Magnetic Wall 19
• Atlantic Crag 18
• The Dream 21
• Bombay Duck 17

Lions Head granite

• Millions 19
• Bastille Crack 20
• de Bruin Damage 18
• Scratch 17

Lion's Head Sandstone

• Clifton Crest (15)
• Beware The Dark Horse (18)

Lakeside Pinnacle

• Crack of Dawn (17)

Muizenberg Crag

• Crackle
• No Name Brand
• Understairs and Dilettante

Du Toits Kloof

• Exposure in the 'F' Major
• No More Bells 19
• Renaissance

Yellowwood Amphitheatre

• Armageddon Time 23

Hellfire

• Hellfire (the route) 24
• Burnout 21
• Aurora 19
• Joker Smoker 17

Montagu

• Technicolour Darkness [area closed]
• Nuclear Waste [area closed]

Karbonaaitjieskraal

• Rastarock
• Divine Dog

Manoutsa

• Hard Rock Cafe (18)

Blyderivier

• Green Bottle (19)
• Prelude to Luka (20)
• Book of Baloo (21)
• Silver Ribbon (18)
• Sundance Kid (19)
• The Iron Curtain (24)
• Cactus Dykes (20)
• Buried Treasure (20)
• Mother Nature's Necessities (19)

Check the Blydepoort Classics RD for more.

Blouberg

• Eight Miles High (24)
• Dog Day in Heaven (25/6)
• Hey Jude (21)
• Dreams of White Dogs (26)
• Dog of Thunder (30 A0)

Kransberg

• Aasvoël's End (17 R)
• Angel Recess (15)

Magaliesberg

Mhalbs

• Space Walk (21)
• Crystal Fire (23)
• Egowhip (23)
• Straight Edge (16)
• Final Cut (25)

Upper Tonquani

• Last Rites (19 X)
• Red Corner (17)
• Hawks Eye (13)
• The Moke (17)
• Hyperadrenia (20)
• Alchemy (22)

Cedarberg

• Boggle (19)
• Difficult Shapes and Passive Rythms (21)
• Tigatrix (18)
• Hangdog (21)
• Golden Balls (15)
• Butterfly (16)
• Twist & Shout (28)
• Cedarberg Corner Direct (13)

Boulder

• Dogstyle (23)
• Sabre (19)
• Raging Bull (20)
• Slipstream (18)
• Blood and Chocolate (18)

Kranskloof

• The Cruise (22)
• Golden Goose (17)
• The Swarm (direct finish) (19)
• Pistol (18)
• Arch of Time (24)
• Clime of the Century (20)
• Foetus (17)

Lower Tonquani

• Hourglass (17)
• Exstacy (17)
• Doppler Effect (21)
• Circuit Breaker (22)
• Just Hot (23)
• More Monkey Than Funkey (21)
• Red Column (15)
• Sands of Time (19 R)
• Gnasher (19)
• Question of Balance (21)

Fernkloof

• Fernkloof Pinnacle (17)
• Dextrose
• Lazarus

Hamerkop

• Quintessence (22)
• One Crack Mind (19)
• Amazing Grace Direct (18 X)
• The Beer Hunter (20 X)

Eureka Dome

• Aftermath

Dome

• Fallen Angel
• Devil's Advocate
• Magic Dragon
• Muffin Direct
• Time Limit

Grootkloof

• Isolation Pinnacle (11)
• Dive Bomber (direct)

Castle Gorge

• Donner en Bliksem (20)

Trident

• Apex
• Swiss Army Knife (17 R)

Wilgepoort

• The Key (Direct first pitch) (21)
• Cabernet/Muscadel Crack combination (18)
• McFats LGP

The Hell

• To Hell with skin

Magageni

• Snakeskin Arete (20)

Mary (E Cape)

• The Legend (26)

Paarl Rocks

• Stem Gem - 22

The Berg

• The North Face Route on Sentinel Peak (also called the Angus-Leppan Route)
• Devil's Tooth.
• Mponjwana, Standard Route.
• The Bell, Hoper's Route.
• The Pyramid, Standard Route.
• The Column, Escarpment Arête.
• The Monk's Cowl, Standard and Barry's Route.
• The Injasuti Western Triplet, North West Ridge Route.
• Giant's Castle, Schole's Route.
• Giant's Castle, Makaza and the Main Loteni Couloir (ice routes).
• Not so auto (on Monks cowl)

Boven

• Heart of China (23)
• Al's Bells (19)

Monteseel

• Powderfinger
• Fiddler in the roof
• Granny's souped up wheelchair

Pinnacle Gorge

• Lycra Trea
• Por_noster
• Slow ecstasy
• Snip Snip
• Fingercrack
• Think Pink

Nagas Gorge

• Old man's ecstasy
• Moonjig

Lady Slipper

• MacKegnie's madness
• Twinkletoes
• Flashdance

Hogsback

• Fame and fashion

Both gorges in EC