Difference between revisions of "Waterval Boven"

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(The Waterval Boven Guide)
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== The Waterval Boven Guide ==
 
== The Waterval Boven Guide ==
  
This guide covers everything.
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This guide covers everything. Click here to look at some photos posted by members of the ClimbZA forum: [http://www.climbing.co.za/gallery2/thumbnails.php?album=17]
  
[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Waterval_Boven_Guide_December_2011.pdf ONLINE GUIDE TO SPORT AND TRAD CLIMBING AT WATERVAL BOVEN, SOUTH AFRICA - Updated December 2011.]
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* [http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/pdf/WatervalBovenGuide20130311.pdf ONLINE GUIDE TO SPORT AND TRAD CLIMBING AT WATERVAL BOVEN, SOUTH AFRICA - Updated March 2013.]
  
 
== Add New Routes below: ==
 
== Add New Routes below: ==
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'''Baboon Buttress'''
 
'''Baboon Buttress'''
  
Diablo 26 *** (7D) Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish. FA: Evan Margetts, July 2011
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HYPOPNEA 25 *** [6D,A] Weird but a cool outing! From the ledge at the chains of Dreamers (23), un-clip the chains and keep clipping diagonally left, breathing slowly..go way left..then up to the chains. If you do this and Dreamers as one pitch, you need a 70m rope and tie knots in the ends and extended draws! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013
 
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RAPTOPHILIA 31 **** (7D,A) It's not rape if you yell surprise!
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Start with your hands on the lowest holds and feet on the lowest boulders, no cheating. Fight your way to the chains using pure determination as your guide. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Ensure that you clip the first draw from the ground to avoid injury. Consensus makes it 31.
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FA: Brian Weaver, April 2011
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'''Hallucinogen Wall'''
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ARE YOU CHICKEN ENOUGH? 25 *** [Trad, A]
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Climbs the thin crack between THE HARDER YOU PUSH and MOONDANCE, to a set of chains half way up the wall.  Opened on trad.  Chicken bolts will be added soon.  FA: Andrew Porter, April 2012
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Spicy Habanero Salsa 24 *** (5D) Start on the right of Banging Bridget Jones.  Start on the flat hand holds right of the thin vertical seam/crack.  Traverse left into seam and climb up (hard) moving left into crack.  Head rightwards into undercling under roof, through roof and finish up the final crack to the chains of BBJ.  Possibly easier if you are tall.
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FA: Robert Powell and Edna Calvo, December 2011.
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Saint Gabriel 21 *** (+-6D) Thin face climb between Angel Of Mercy and The Winnebago Smile. Name written on the rock. FA: Evan Margetts, Darryl Margetts
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Iron Lotus 21 ** (8D) Climb the thin face just right of Rocky, staying on the face (Going left makes it easier).  
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FA: Darryl Margetts and Evan Margetts 2010
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'''Superbowl'''
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Coach 26 *** (12?D) Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Between Frazzle and Doug in the Yellow House. Not sure about the grade - opinion on this is welcome.
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FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2011. Bolted by Tim Dunnett and Dirk Smith.
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Revision as of 21:44, 14 March 2013

Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.

The Waterval Boven Guide

This guide covers everything. Click here to look at some photos posted by members of the ClimbZA forum: [1]

Add New Routes below:

Baboon Buttress

HYPOPNEA 25 *** [6D,A] Weird but a cool outing! From the ledge at the chains of Dreamers (23), un-clip the chains and keep clipping diagonally left, breathing slowly..go way left..then up to the chains. If you do this and Dreamers as one pitch, you need a 70m rope and tie knots in the ends and extended draws! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013