Difference between revisions of "Waterval Boven"

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This guide covers everything.
 
This guide covers everything.
  
[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Waterval_Boven_Guide_May_2012.pdf ONLINE GUIDE TO SPORT AND TRAD CLIMBING AT WATERVAL BOVEN, SOUTH AFRICA - Updated May 2012.]
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http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/mpumalanga/waterval-boven/
  
 
== Add New Routes below: ==
 
== Add New Routes below: ==
  
'''Baboon Buttress'''
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'''Last Crag of the Century, Waterfall Area'''
  
Diablo 26 *** (7D) Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish. FA: Evan Margetts, July 2011
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MADIBA MAGIC 18 **** [15D,A] Starts 10 right from the base of the normal descent gully. In character with the rest of the awesomeness of this crag. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013
  
Blood Diamond 28 *** (5D)Situated to the right of psych ward . Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder however do not use this boulder during your ascent. Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top. FA: David Wade and Evan Margetts BB: Darryl Margetts. 29th April 2012
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AMAKROKOKROKO 23 **** [17D,A] Hack up the bushy slope just right of CAFFEINE JITTERS to the obvious right facing corner leading up to the fun crack system. FA: Hector Pringle 2013
  
RAPTOPHILIA 31 **** (7D,A) It's not rape if you yell surprise!
 
Start with your hands on the lowest holds and feet on the lowest boulders, no cheating. Fight your way to the chains using pure determination as your guide. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Ensure that you clip the first draw from the ground to avoid injury. Consensus makes it 31.
 
FA: Brian Weaver, April 2011
 
  
'''Hallucinogen Wall'''
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'''Tranquilitas, Wonderland'''
  
ARE YOU CHICKEN ENOUGH? 25 *** [Trad, A]
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BROKEN TREE 16 *** [11D,A] Starts 1 meter to the right of Roc Rally. First bolt right of small tree. Three cruxes, all different and gets airy after the step over. Needs 60 meter rope. Great Photo opportunity from top of crag. FA: Sharon Benade BB: Johan Moelich 2013
Climbs the thin crack between THE HARDER YOU PUSH and MOONDANCE, to a set of chains half way up the wall. Opened on trad. Chicken bolts will be added soon. FA: Andrew Porter, April 2012
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Spicy Habanero Salsa 24 *** (5D) Start on the right of Banging Bridget Jones.  Start on the flat hand holds right of the thin vertical seam/crack.  Traverse left into seam and climb up (hard) moving left into crack.  Head rightwards into undercling under roof, through roof and finish up the final crack to the chains of BBJ.  Possibly easier if you are tall.
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'''God-No Wall, Wonderland'''
FA: Robert Powell and Edna Calvo, December 2011.
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Saint Gabriel 21 *** (+-6D) Thin face climb between Angel Of Mercy and The Winnebago Smile. Name written on the rock. FA: Evan Margetts, Darryl Margetts
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GEM SQUASH 21 **** [12D,A] Starts on a small buttress almost touching the path 30m left of the MONSTER cave. Blast through the roofs right of the massive wild fig tree. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
  
Iron Lotus 21 ** (8D) Climb the thin face just right of Rocky, staying on the face (Going left makes it easier).  
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BUTTERNUT 20 **** [10D,A] The (very worthwhile) second pitch of GEM SQUASH. Traverse left from the finishing ledge of GEM SQUASH without clipping the chains. Continue along for 3 bolts to reach the belay chains. Be prepared for some well deserved ambiance. Can be done in one massive pitch with enough extender slings below the first set of chains (not recommended!). You need at least a 70m rope to do both pitches and reach the ground. A 60m rope will be just good enough to abseil from the top chains. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014 Bolts sponsored by MCSA!
FA: Darryl Margetts and Evan Margetts 2010
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'''Superbowl'''
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AGORAPHOBIA 23 ** [13D,A] Shares first 3 clips with GEM SQUASH then break right and onto the face straight through the imposing roof. You can make it 18 if you want to meander left along the tree and up the corner. (Agoraphobia: Fear of open spaces). FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA.
  
Coach 26 *** (12?D) Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Between Frazzle and Doug in the Yellow House.  
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LEG-O 22 *** [14D,A] Starts below an obvious fin-like feature through some rock fig branches left of JENGA. Take care of small sections with precariously loose looking rocks. Good climbing after that. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2011. Bolted by Tim Dunnett and Dirk Smith.
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The Doomsday Device 26 *** (13D) Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right. FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2012. Bolts supplied by MCSA; beta, doomsday device and drill by Dewald; belays by Warren and Jono.
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JENGA 18 **** [12D,A] Shares a start with TOOLBOX on its own bolts, tending left at the 3rd bolt. A true pump-fest at the grade. Use the lonely fixed 'biner out right to make cleaning this route easier, or back clean it. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
  
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TOOLBOX 21 ***** [17D,A] Starts 15m left of Rodan in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014
  
  
== New additions since the May 2012 verison of the guide ==
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'''Superbowl, Wonderland'''
  
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FULL ANIMAL 27 **** [14D,A] The line between Coach and Life in Orange. Use slings on the three bolts after the half-height rest. Remember to go full animal on the lip of the roof. FA: Hector Pringle 2014
  
'''He-Man Area'''
 
  
These routes are located about 40m East of the main wall. Facing ''Cotapaxi'', walk left past a corner and a wide crack, down a few meters to a narrow ledge. There are two cracks are about 2m apart and just left of a short corner.
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'''The Theatre'''
  
*SKELETOR 21 **** [Trad]
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BIG IN JAPAN 30 *** [12D,A] The line of bolts left of Kindred Spirits. This line has a controversial history supposedly involving an unauthorised first ascent followed by the bolts being chopped by the original bolter. The line was rebolted by Danny Pinkas and re-opened by Marc Efune in November 2014.
Climb the steep hand/fist crack on the left. Over the small roof the angle eases. Belay from blocks at the top of the cliff. FA: Richard Halsey, April 2012.
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*SHE-RA 20 ** [Trad]
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Climb the right-hand crack with a tricky start into a small offwidth. At the aloe traverse left to finish up ''Skeletor''. FA: Richard Halsey, April 2012.
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'''God No! Wall'''
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*THE ENGAGEMENT CRUISE 21 *** [Trad]
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Scramble up left past the start of Rodan, to a narrow ledge. Start on the left of the ledge, just left of the stacked blocks. Straight up a short face, though the overlap and up to below the roof. Rail left to the break in the roof, pull up to the next rail, and then move back right until you can pull up onto the grey ramp. Move slightly left and up the narrow, brown corner, stepping right at the top. Finish up the face between the aloes to the top.  FA: Richard Halsey and Tim Dunnett, May 2012.
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*MUTATION 33 ***** (17D,A) Climbs Beast until 2/3rds height. From the letterbox 'rest' do the big move as for Beast but continue straight up and claw your way through the cracks with your core roaring at you and your feet desperately searching for anything to stand on. An instant classic at the God No Wall. One of the best lines in Boven.
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FA: Brian Weaver, June 2012
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'''Superbowl'''
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*THE NEXT GENERATION 33 ***** (12D,A) The route previously known as 'The Broject' starts up the easy pillar 5m right of Hack and Slay. A short easy face leads into Boven's answer to Rocklands roof bouldering. Get creative and enjoy something unique to Boven. A massive thanks goes to my Big Bro - Dewald Kloppers - for bolting the line and letting me try it with him. FA: Marc Flex Efune, December 2012, BB Dewald Kloppers
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'''Theatre'''
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*MANKINI BLUE 26 *** (8D,A) Climb Bikini Red for two bolts then move left and up via 1-2 small holds. A crimpers delight. FA: Andrew Pedley, June 2012
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'''Breakfast crag'''
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*KIRI 18 *** (5D,A)To the right of CRACK UP, around the corner. Climb the arete on the left. BB: Sharon Benade FA: Johan Moelich, July 2012
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Latest revision as of 09:31, 4 November 2014

Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.

The Waterval Boven Guide

This guide covers everything.

http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/mpumalanga/waterval-boven/

Add New Routes below:

Last Crag of the Century, Waterfall Area

MADIBA MAGIC 18 **** [15D,A] Starts 10 right from the base of the normal descent gully. In character with the rest of the awesomeness of this crag. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013

AMAKROKOKROKO 23 **** [17D,A] Hack up the bushy slope just right of CAFFEINE JITTERS to the obvious right facing corner leading up to the fun crack system. FA: Hector Pringle 2013


Tranquilitas, Wonderland

BROKEN TREE 16 *** [11D,A] Starts 1 meter to the right of Roc Rally. First bolt right of small tree. Three cruxes, all different and gets airy after the step over. Needs 60 meter rope. Great Photo opportunity from top of crag. FA: Sharon Benade BB: Johan Moelich 2013


God-No Wall, Wonderland

GEM SQUASH 21 **** [12D,A] Starts on a small buttress almost touching the path 30m left of the MONSTER cave. Blast through the roofs right of the massive wild fig tree. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA

BUTTERNUT 20 **** [10D,A] The (very worthwhile) second pitch of GEM SQUASH. Traverse left from the finishing ledge of GEM SQUASH without clipping the chains. Continue along for 3 bolts to reach the belay chains. Be prepared for some well deserved ambiance. Can be done in one massive pitch with enough extender slings below the first set of chains (not recommended!). You need at least a 70m rope to do both pitches and reach the ground. A 60m rope will be just good enough to abseil from the top chains. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014 Bolts sponsored by MCSA!

AGORAPHOBIA 23 ** [13D,A] Shares first 3 clips with GEM SQUASH then break right and onto the face straight through the imposing roof. You can make it 18 if you want to meander left along the tree and up the corner. (Agoraphobia: Fear of open spaces). FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA.

LEG-O 22 *** [14D,A] Starts below an obvious fin-like feature through some rock fig branches left of JENGA. Take care of small sections with precariously loose looking rocks. Good climbing after that. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA

JENGA 18 **** [12D,A] Shares a start with TOOLBOX on its own bolts, tending left at the 3rd bolt. A true pump-fest at the grade. Use the lonely fixed 'biner out right to make cleaning this route easier, or back clean it. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA

TOOLBOX 21 ***** [17D,A] Starts 15m left of Rodan in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014


Superbowl, Wonderland

FULL ANIMAL 27 **** [14D,A] The line between Coach and Life in Orange. Use slings on the three bolts after the half-height rest. Remember to go full animal on the lip of the roof. FA: Hector Pringle 2014


The Theatre

BIG IN JAPAN 30 *** [12D,A] The line of bolts left of Kindred Spirits. This line has a controversial history supposedly involving an unauthorised first ascent followed by the bolts being chopped by the original bolter. The line was rebolted by Danny Pinkas and re-opened by Marc Efune in November 2014.