It would seem that some confusion still exists about which bolts should be used at our crags, so I would like to remind all you trigger-happy bolters out there that the bolting Specifications for bolts are as follows:
– Hilti HSA-R M10x90mm Stainless Steel 316/A4
– Fischer FBN M10x90mm Stainless Steel 316/A4
We recommend the 90mm long bolts as we have found that at some crags the rock is too soft and I have personally pulled some bolts out with body weight!!! If you do run into problems with super soft rock where glue ins are required please feel free to contact me for help. We do not recommend glue ins as installing them is difficult and requires some training and experience. The ARF glue-ins are being placed by bolters trained by Fischer.
Please do not use the “cheapie” UPAT bolts as they break!!!!! If you do notice any bolters using these anchors, please feel free to klap them hard across the ears as they are placing your safety at risk. And eventually these dodgy anchors will need to be replaced by ARF – quite frankly we’d prefer to go climbing.