Magaliesberg Linkups

Here is a perfect day out for anyone that is reasonably fit and enthusiastic.


Graham Terrell on The Moke (17)

The objective is to climb one route in each kloof, namely Upper Tonquani, Boulder, Lower Tonquani and Cedarberg.  There are several variations to the theme.
Here is a description of the Honeymoon version. It’s perfect for introducing the girlfriend/boyfriend to the joys of trad. Assuming that said partner is relatively competent at abseiling and belaying and that you are familiar with these routes and the kloofs in some manner then this is how it’s done.

Either park at Mountain Sanctuary or to make it less of a long day and more of a romantic weekend camp at the Cedarberg campsite or at Mountain Sanctuary Park.  That way you can get an early start.

So, hike across to Upper Tonquani and descend via Photographers gully.  Collect some water before starting to climb as this is the last water until you get to the bottom of Boulder kloof.  Climb Hawks Eye (13).  To save time link the top two pitches.  Keep one rope free for the bit around the eye to prevent rope drag.  You are now fairly committed to the day as you are now as far from the end point as you will be the whole day.

Hike across to Boulder kloof. Climb Trio (10), sticking just left of the chimney feature. It doesn’t add much to the grade and is much more fun climbing. Abseil off the tree at the top.
Descend Boulder kloof and have lunch and maybe a quick swim.  Then climb Red Column (15). Try to do it in two pitches, but be careful of rope drag.  Scramble down the gully at the back and abseil off the good tree.  Walk to Cedarberg kloof and climb Cedarberg Corner (12).  This is a brilliant climb even though it looks a bit suspect from below.  Top out and walk back to your campsite or car.  The trick to this is not to stuff around, mostly just keep moving and be efficient with setting up stances etc. You don’t need to be running or climbing super fast to do these linkups, just keep moving.

Here are some other versions. For some of them it would make more sense to park on the south side of the Magaliesberg.

The Honeymoon version:

Hawks Eye                  (13)
Trio                              (10)
Red Column                (15)
Cedarberg Corner       (12)

The fun day out version:

Beetlejuice                  (16)
Sweet Sixteen            (16)
Red Column                (15)
Butterfly                     (16)

The slightly more involved version:

The Moke        (17)
Slipstream       (18)
Hourglass        (17)
Tigatrix            (18)

The semi hard man version (If you can do this in good time, then you are ready to climb a route at Blouberg)

Last Rites                   (19)
Saber                           (19)
Sands of Time           (19)
Boggle                         (19)

You can call yourself a climber version:

Hyperadrenia         (20)
Raging Bull               (20)
Doppler Effect         (21)
Hang Dog                  (21)

You are a machine version:

Accipiter’s Edge       (23)
Dogstyle                      (23)
Just Hot                       (23)
Agonising Hands      (24)

Adam Ondra is my bitch version:

Alchemy                                         (22 going on 26)
Rhythm of Youth                        (27)
Dance across the Centuries    (25)
Twist and Shout                           (27)

The Author on Hyperadrenia (20)

4 Responses to Magaliesberg Linkups

  1. Heinrich May 31, 2010 at 9:00 am #

    This is a brilliant idea, and a good way to climb the classics. Be careful of Twist & Shout though: it’ll bite you in the but before you know it. You’ll need WC friends 1, 1.5, 2, 3, 4, and medium-sized nuts.

    For Slipstream, take your whole rack – you can zip it up all the way to the top!

    For Boggle: WC friend #4 is VERY comforting before the 6m run-out / crux.

    For Last Rites: great pro all the way, except the first 20 meters or so. bring big balls

  2. Heinrich May 31, 2010 at 9:08 am #

    In addition to Ian’s AWESOME list of 1-day challenges, I would like to propose the Cedarberg challenge. This is not for the faint-hearted and will get your blood flowing in 2 seconds flat. But you won’t notice this, since the amount of adrenaline will be too high to notice notice anything really…

    I’ll stick to Ian’s categories:

    “You are a Machine” version:
    Difficult shapes and passive rhythms 21 – warmup
    Eliminator 27
    Black karma 26
    Life after enlightenment 27
    Twist and Shout 28 – I still think it’s too hard for 27.

    “Adam Ondra is my bitch” version:
    Difficult shapes and passive rhythms 21 – warmup
    Eliminator 27
    Terminator II 30
    Life after enlightenment 27
    Twilight Floozy 30
    Twist and Shout 28

  3. Hector May 31, 2010 at 12:41 pm #

    Heinrich, how on earth did you manage to contrive a 6m runout on Boggle???!

  4. Heinrich May 31, 2010 at 3:00 pm #

    Hector, dunno, maybe it was less… can remember it was lots! =) on the other hand, I plugged in a big one and shot for the chains. maybe that was where the runout came from… hehehe

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