Saturday, Sept 25th , French climber  Gérôme Pouvreau has done  the first ascent of Aubade directe, 9a/a+ at  Sainte Victoire, near Aix en Provence.

The route was bolted by Christophe Da Conceicao and has two possible exits: the classic version turns on the right, has an exit “easier” and is rated 8c+. It remained to free the direct  version, 12 meters more  very bouldery and technical.

After two or three falls just after the last crux (a long move to gain  a small crack), Saturday Gérôme carried out the FA,  also taking advantage of good weather conditions, 15 ° and mistral at 70 km / h .
He suggests the grade  9a/a+.
Gérôme’s girlfriend, Florence Pinet,  in meanwhile has done  a couple of 8b: “Twin pinch” in Sainte-Victoire and the legendary “Les mains sales” on the west wall of Buoux.
read more on Kairn (french)
[youtube width=”625″ height=”544″]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdifoJUK8D0&feature=player_embedded[/youtube]

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2 Comments

  1. Hello Gerome, I am the guy who took the pictures of Yvonne, climbing Monkey Face at Smith Rock, Oregon.( two weeks ago) If you remember, you were trying to give us your e-mail, but I think we got it wrong. Please send your email so we can forward the pictures to you.

    Thanks, Tom Provenzano


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