Clinton sends Brutality (33) at Oorlogs Kloof

Clinton Martinengo Brutality

Clinton on ‘Brutality’ (33) at Oorlogs Kloof.  Image:  Cutloose

Montagu recently received it’s hardest face climb courtesy of Clinton MartinengoBrutality 33 at Snark Buttress in Oorlogs Kloof lay as a project for nearly a decade before Clinton summoned enough motivation and strength to finish it off. Steve Bradshaw (Snr) had the following to add:

“Between Christmas and New Year 2002, Guy and Robyn Holwill, Clinton Martinengo, Mark Johnston and Steve Bradshaw (Snr) rebolted the lines on Snark Buttress, Oorlogskloof, creating, with the first ascenionists blessings, what have become probably the most popular routes in the kloof. They also made some new link-ups and bolted two projects that remained unclimbed until recently. In 2010 Steve completed the first of these – the very thin slab right of Peace Frog. “As I Am” is shorter than my Thermarest, but features some tricky moves and small holds and goes at 31. It took until 27th December 2012 for Clinton to take down the remaining project.

With resident guardian of Oorlogskloof (Steve) sidelined with injury and recently struck down by a golf ball to the head while out walking in his suburb, Clinton has set about upgrading Oorlogs with a vengeance. He rebolted all the routes on the Canasta Buttress (which are now safe), bolted a new project high up above Snark Buttress and started re-working the remaining project on the Snark Buttress. The line follows tiny laybacks, crimps and slopers left of The Pig Must Die, and is characterized by very insecure climbing, terrible footholds and very tenuous clips.

Clinton finally got the redpoint of “Brutality” on about his 8th attempt of the day on 27th December, just managing to complete the project in a decade. If you are looking for a quick tick at 8b+/33, this might not be the route to hop onto. It bakes in the sun all day, leaving only a small window of opportunity in the evening, has handholds that would feel terrible as footholds and a couple of really heart-stopping clips.”

*Doctors report that Steve (87) is currently being kept alive on a coffee machine, but given his quality of life are seeking the consent of his climbing partners to switch off the machine.

Source:  Cutloose


6 Responses to Clinton sends Brutality (33) at Oorlogs Kloof

  1. Mike Thorpe Jan 16, 2013 at 5:51 pm #

    Nice one Clint!

    Don’t know about the tenuous clips, that left hand crimp looks bomber?!?!?!

  2. Steveb Jan 16, 2013 at 9:41 pm #

    Superb work Ningo!

    As SB junior, I vote we keep the machine on a while longer. At least until Oorlogs is as climbed out as the supertubes…

  3. andrew p Jan 17, 2013 at 7:47 am #

    LOVE IT! great write-up, in the classic style. As for the send, jeez, if Clingon has to crimp like that it must be grim hard. Well done Clint, good to see some new hard routes in the cape. Andrew

  4. JuliaW Jan 22, 2013 at 7:56 pm #

    Yeeehaaaa! Nice Ningo! Awesome 🙂

  5. Hilton Davies Jan 24, 2013 at 11:28 am #

    Fantastic stuff Clint!! Still at the bleeding edge after so many years! You will run the risk of becoming immortalised like AdK if you don’t watch out! (excluding the little detail of the alpinism of course…)

  6. Clinton Jan 26, 2013 at 11:03 am #

    Guy Holwill sponsored me all the bolts I needed to rebolt the Canasta buttress. It took me to days by my self in 32*c heat. To place all the new bolts and remove all the old ones. So I do hope they will see a bunch of traffic now. As they are good routs with old school grading.

    I will need to live out nine full lives before I could fall into the same class as ADK. But thank Hilton.

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