On the 29th of June multiple world Cup Bouldering Champ Kilian Fischhuber tied into a rope at Waterfall Boven for a few days and opened the Shear Force open project at the Right Wing.
Kilian sent it on his first attempt on his fourth day, passing the crux with a grunt but otherwise with ease. He suggests 8c (34). The route was bolted by Andrew Pedley a couple years ago but was not really been tried by anyone seriously.
In Andrews article in SA Mountain Mag early this year, describing the line he wrote:
“Finally, a proper hard-line at Boven that doesn’t require pulling on credit card edges, none of the usual crimpy balancy stuff, this one requires BEEF. And it’s amazing. A 30 metre wall, leaning 10-15 degrees all the way and with a crux that involves 12 moves on side pulls and awkward finger jugs with no footholds, basically sideways campassing. It’s the full 900 gram T-bone!”
Well, now we have a magnificent 8c, so cool for Boven and for South Africa. Thanks Kilian for taking on the challenge, and to Reinhard for taking the excellent photos.
Kilian answers a few questions:
In what style is the climbing on Shear Force, it seems pretty sustained?
Actually it is not. Shear Force starts with some hard moves and the crux is higher up. In between there are possibilities to rest. The crux boulder has about 10 moves with increasing difficulty. That is about the length of a boulder which helped me a lot in sending the project quickly.
How many days did you spend working it?
I think I spend 4 days in total.
How does the quality compare with climbs you have done elsewhere?
The line is impressive and is the only one on that face. It is for sure one of the proudest climbs I have done and I am really happy that I got the chance to send it.
Any other comments on the climb?
Well, thanks for letting me do the first ascent. I hope it will be climbed by many others.
Then, on a passing visit to the Wow Prow he did Digital Warfare 8b+ (33) on his 2nd try! All he did was put up the draws, brush and chalk, try the moves, then send. He confirms the quality and the grade. ‘DW’ was opened by Paige Claassen in July 2013.
The route won the title ‘best new sport climb of 2013’ by Dead Point Magazine.
Kilian, What did you think of Wow Prow?
Wow Prow was “wow!” I mean, it blows your mind. This piece of rock is unique in its setting and the climbs are marvellous!
Both Digital Warfare and Shear Force were bolted using bolts provided by the Johannesburg & Magaliesberg Sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa. Big Up to them for supporting the cutting edge (as well as the grass-roots).
14 Comments
Digital Warfare is 8b+ and he got it second go. Shear Force took him several tries over 4 days and gets 8c … interesting but fishy!?
Mmm, was thinking the same thing.
different styles?
no gustav, the hardest rout in the country belongs to the western cape only! but nice try…. 😉
Uhm, ok?
Gus, it’s the final step of the naturalization process. You have to find the most random and uncalled for way to tell someone Cape Town uber alles! If you put yourself in his place with skinny pants, scarf stuck in designer beard, drinking organic craft coffee at a pleasant overpriced barista, I think you’ll find that he thought that you tried to imply it should be upgraded and then Cape Town won’t be better.
Consensus required. Definitly
Awesome stuff!!
You mean fischy?
I have to also a my 2c
Watching him on DW, was his comfort zone, its boulder moves that he loved and I think the fact that after the beer’s and soccer the night before he was well prepared for it. Was an inspiring piece of climbing to watch.
The video of him climbing DW should be up on Epic Tv Channel soon.
An FA and a 2nd ascent very different. Also, DW is obvious, there are only a certain number of holds and its basic beta (albeit uber cool). Shear Force is totally confusing, 3D, many options. One look at it and you can see why. I think the grades he gave are probably right. Cant wait to see the movie Dawie, good job on that. RUKO!
Damn that line looks great!
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