In early 2015, I climbed the Buttermilk classic Evilution to the lip (v10) and decided to keep on going. I’ve always wanted to do the direct, but never had the 1) balls or 2) skill set.
Since I’m not quite tall enough to reach the last hold using the standard method, I opted for a micro crystal (two finger crimp) out right to help me gain the last hold. Carlo also used this method but we both felt uncomfortable biting down on the crystal that high off the ground.
This was my last attempt.
[vimeo width=”730″ height=”420″]http://vimeo.com/143565295[/vimeo]