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MCSA – BMC Exchange Meet 2016

These are the people who are going on the MCSA - BMC Exchange Meet 2016


BMC MCSA exchange

The vibe:
1.       Anyone and everyone are welcome to join for whichever bits of the SA leg they would like to join for, just organise your own logistics.
2.       If you would like to get involved in helping out at all, please let Julia ( / 082 7557 123) know. E.g. if you would like to host any Brits in CT?
3.       The bring-and-braais + slideshows at the MCSA in CT and Jhb will be great events.
4.       The nights at Sanddrift will be extremely festive – come and climb and join the campfire!
5.       If you would like to buy one of Steve Mcclure’s books (Beyond Limits: A life through climbing), please let Julia know before 15th Feb. He’ll only bring as many as he can pre-sell (finding out the price).



MCSA logo bmc_logo

MCSA – BMC Exchange Meet 2016

Many moons (~15 years) ago, the MCSA and the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) held an exchange trad-climbing meet in which knowledge was shared, muscles were bared, beers were drunk and relationships were formed.  It was so much fun that Ed February and Snort have decided it is high time for another.

The idea is for 10 BMC climbers to come climb in SA for 10 days (26 February to 7 March 2016) and 10 MCSA climbers to then climb in Wales and the Peak District in the UK (29 April to 10 May 2016).

Costs to you: Travel and food in SA (and potentially bringing your car along for some bits) + your flight to the UK (potential partial sponsorship of some flights) + some rounds of drinks in the UK (don’t underestimate this!).  The BMC climbers will have all expenses paid (accommodation, food and transport) once they arrive in SA and be hosted by the SA climbers.  Just as we look after the BMC here in South Africa, they will look after us in the UK.

Criteria: Be an MCSA member, be able to on sight Grade 20+ on trad, have your own gear, be psyched, be free for the above dates.

If you are interested, send a short motivation to before the 27th November 2015 7th of December.


Proposed plan for SA portion of the exchange meet
Date Climbing location / activity
Fri 26 Feb BMC arrive in CT
Sat 27 Feb Cederberg (Tafelberg)
Sun 28 Feb Cederberg (Tafelberg)
Mon 29 Feb Cederberg (Wolfberg) / Table Mountain
Tue 1 Mar Table Mountain + MCSA CT clubhouse braai
Wed 2 Mar Yellowwood
Thur 3 Mar Yellowwood
Fri 4 Mar Fly to Jhb and drive to Blouberg
Sat 5 Mar Blouberg
Sun 6 Mar Blouberg
Mon 7 Mar Magaliesberg (Cederberg/Tonquani) + MCSA Jhb clubhouse braai (CityRock)

Below are a few images from the last ZA / UK Exchange that took place.
All photos courtesy of Jeremy Samson.

South Africa / British Trad Climbing Exchange
Unknown climber on Psycho E5


South Africa / British Trad Climbing Exchange
Dave Birkett on Beau Geste


South Africa / British Trad Climbing Exchange
Jeremy Samson on ?? E4


South Africa / British Trad Climbing Exchange
Ben Bransby on ‘Conan the Librarian’.


South Africa / British Trad Climbing Exchange
Boulering at the Roaches
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Justin Lawson
8 years ago

‘Big Up’ to Ed and Snort (+ all others involved) for getting this exchange going again.

The last ZA / UK exchange certainly made a difference to the level of Trad climbing in SA.
New routes went up (mostly here in SA!!), people started actively falling on (trusting) gear placements – all round I would say that the standard of trad climbing went up.
One of the visiting UK climbers even met his future wife on the exchange 🙂

Good luck to all who apply (closing date 27 November).

Chris F
Chris F
8 years ago

Jeremy Samson is on High Noon, an E4 6a at Caley Crags. And I’m 99% certain the “Bouldering at the Roaches” is actually at Shipley Glen, near Bradford. The photo of Psycho is really tilted, it’s a slab!

And English climbers will need to train for the walk ins you have planned!

8 years ago

I highly, highly, recommend this to the younger generation who have yet to travel! Besides the climbing, it will provide the biggest push-start to climbing travel (or marriage, just ask Mary ;-p ) at very little cost to you.

Personally I hope that it is not “all the same (old) faces of ZA again (You guys do rock though ;-P )

Warren Gans
Warren Gans
8 years ago

I couldn’t agree more with Tristan: if you take your trad climbing seriously to not apply for an opportunity like this will haunt you for a long time: I remember the BMC climbers coming through in 2002 and what a difference the exchange made, and promised myself then to apply if it ever happened again, but I agree that I am a little old for it compared to the hotshots on the hill right now. There is enough time between now and the first leg to gain fair trad abilities and really exploit this situation.

I hope to see a long list of candidates, rather than anyone who applies.

Julia Wakeling
Julia Wakeling
8 years ago

Yes indeed – bring on those applications!!!

Julia Wakeling
Julia Wakeling
8 years ago

Apologies, I got the UK dates wrong:
Wales and the Peak District in the UK (29 April to 10 May 2016)

Also, applications due by 7th Dec so still a few days left!!!

Would love your thoughts, please comment.x

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