New Line at Truitjieskraal

Malcolm Gowans opened a route recently at Truitjieskraal on the King Cobra Prow.

I’ve had my eye on for some time on the King Cobra prow.  It’s not your typical sport route in that the line is indirect.  It follows the line of least resistance, snaking its way up an impressive wall and goes at an accessible grade 19/20.

The climbing in the first half is very “trady” and the upper half is fun, exposed face climbing.  I’ve given Snakes & Ladders *** but would like to hear what other think of it.

Cobra Prow, Cederberg

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7 Responses to New Line at Truitjieskraal

  1. Dave Jul 5, 2017 at 12:46 pm #

    That’s Awesome! Thanks very much to Malcolm for bolting this route.

  2. Ryan Jul 10, 2017 at 9:20 am #

    Length of climb so we know what length of rope to use? Thanks, looks awesome!

  3. Robert Breyer Oct 9, 2017 at 6:37 am #

    great route. ***** stars. i give it a 20 being sustained and exposed. route wanders and is 35m long, the straight top rope is almost 25m, you will need exactly 60m of rope to bring you down. route can be tradded as well – excellent gear everywhere.

  4. Justin Lawson Oct 9, 2017 at 8:52 am #

    I also got to have a go this weekend. What an awesome, fun route 🙂 Well done Malcolm and thanks for putting it together 🙂
    It’s nicely bolted – love the top anchors.

    RE: length: I unclipped the 5th or 6th bolt (the bolt furtherest right) before moving left and had a good few meters of rope left over.
    Onsight grade more along the lines of 20 I reckon.

  5. Malcolm Oct 12, 2017 at 9:46 am #

    I’m glad to hear there has been so much fun had on that route. 🙂 Makes it all worth while!

    A few points of intrest:
    I recommend taking a few alpine draws with for bolts 5 & 6. this will avoid rope drag and having to unclip as Justin did. We’re not so as brave as Justin.
    You need a 60m rope as Robert recomends.

    Lastly, the route name has changed to BOA (Bold, our there & Adventerous)

  6. Oliver Williams Sep 3, 2018 at 10:50 am #

    Hi Mally,

    Well done on the new route and thanks! Charlie and I did it yesterday. I agree with your 3* rating and the grading. The face climbing is superb. Loved that traverse! The first section is a bit awkward which is where I think it loses a star, but that’s the only way up at the grade. Although if you do the initial traverse properly (which I didn’t – went too high and bunched up) it flows quite well.

    But it’s great to have an easier route on this famous prow, and provides and great warm up for King Cobra. I prefer the Snakes and Ladders route name by the way 🙂 I think somebody might have taken one of the leaver biners because there was only one.

  7. bruce Feb 23, 2021 at 1:52 pm #

    Hi all! I gave the route a whirl this past Saturday evening, going for the onsite. Here is my experience:

    I have only been climbing around a year and 19s are the “top of my pyramid” so to speak. I was drawn like moth to the flame with this beast, I nearly shat myself on it. The first clip I tried very awkwardly from the left side and that rattled me a bit. Then the traddy section at the bottom added to me feeling a bit uncomfortable, worrying about landing on a ledge. I was relieved to traverse out onto the beautiful open face, but significantly spooked at this point. Took me about 10 mins just to get to there, and I started the climb around 630pm (not the best idea in retrospect).

    What followed was a very serious climb for me, I was horrified and elated at the same time. At the route crossing point I got a tad confused and yelled for some beta “WHERE AM I GOING!?”|, so you might call it a flash. The rope drag was quite bad higher up, so some slings/alpine on the way might help as suggested. By the time I was at the chains the sun had set and I was alone with the moon in the loneliest and most beautiful place I can remember.

    The verdict? In terms of rating, as a route it would get ***, but I think you can possibly justify adding one star just for the epic epic exposure and the sustain. It is really fantastic that a lower-grade climber can get onto such a monumental, classic face. It makes the other 19s in truit feel like child’s play (expect maybe fynhoed). So thanks a ton malcolm for bolting it.

    In terms of grading, for me it felt hard for a 19, but thats probably because I was horrified and I was going for the on-site. Regarding the actual moves, I can’t even remember them to be honest. So I am not really qualified to say. I think an experienced climber might argue that the moves are easy for 19. It depends on if things like sustain and fear should be added to the grading. For me, it was a bloody hard send. So be warned if 19 is at /near your redpoint, its super tough (but also extremely rewarding).

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