First Wave (7a+) – Johann Papendorf

This one from feb 2010. Climbed by Johann Papendorf and belayed by Jaak Redelinghuys, two of my very best and oldest friends. What’s your beta? Comment below! As I remember, there’s at least 3 ways of doing the crux move (to the big undercling). Johann is using the most obvious beta.

Many people find the bit off the ground very tricky as well. It can be especially difficult for the reach impaired. Johann makes it look easy, but it is pretty core intensive. There’s also the running start beta demonstrated by James Barnes on instagram, check it out below the video!

Video by Phlip Olivier


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