Thruster (7b), Supertubes, Montagu

For this week’s beta binge we stay in Montagu and head back to Supertubes. Here you’ll find the absolute classic 26 (7b), Thruster. A benchmark for it’s grade and rated one of the top 10 routes to climb in Montagu in an old Getaway article

This is a continuous shot of me doing the route, so beware it can get pretty boring. Nonetheless, I believe this is good beta. There are many ways of doing the route. Here’s a clip of Kai Fitchen using similar beta to me on the lower tricky section (2:102:40), but entirely different beta on the redpoint crux (in the 2nd video below).

 

 

6 Responses to Thruster (7b), Supertubes, Montagu

  1. Wes Oct 29, 2020 at 1:48 pm #

    The red point crux right at the top is easy if find the sneaky left high-foot placement. You can then skip the bad slopy side-pull (3:15 Phlip’s video) and go straight for the jug without dead-pointing the way Kai did (2:40 Kai).

    • Phlip Olivier Oct 30, 2020 at 10:03 am #

      Thanks Wes, that’s really cool. Keen to know a more:
      – Where are your hands when you get the high foot? Do you still use the lower sidepull and crimp or go directly from the big jugs?
      – Any chance you remember where (more or less) the sneaky left foot is?
      – Once foot is in place, I assume you go left hand up?

      • Grant Oct 30, 2020 at 10:50 am #

        Hi Phlip

        I dunno if this is the beta Wes is referring to above, but I found this the easiest way to do that top move. You skip all the slopers this way.

        The crux for me was actually the move to the rail between the tradition first and second crux.

        https://youtu.be/hcWpeJhfm10

        • Phlip Olivier Oct 30, 2020 at 3:22 pm #

          Hi Grant,

          Thanks for this valuable input! I do recall seeing someone doing something like this when I was still working the moves. Was not really my cup of tea, as I tend to use slopers to try and skip crimps.. especially when I’m pumped 😀

          The big move to the rail certainly is hard. I remember falling there quite a few times. It’s almost like the 1st redpoint crux, as the move on it’s own is not too bad. But after the 2finger undercling, cross and faffing with the feet, it can suddenly feel desperate.

      • Wes Oct 30, 2020 at 12:21 pm #

        I use the crimps above the big jugs. Then step up on small feet to the left. Hard to say on the forum, but it is pretty obvious when you look for it, last time I was there someone ticked it. It allows me to reach past the slopy side pull to the good hold and I am much shorter than everyone in the videos.

        • Phlip Olivier Oct 30, 2020 at 3:49 pm #

          Thanks Wes, I’ll def have a look next time I find myself up there. It does sound like good short person beta. I am average height, but was already surprised to see how high Kai gets his feet to do that section. I think he is quite a bit taller than me.

          Really cool so hear/see all the different beta people use.
          And we haven’t even started on the middle section :-O

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