A Gift of Wings (7c), The Mine

For this week’s beta binge we leave Montagu for a change and head to The Mine, Muizenberg, Cape Town.

Here we take a look at “A Gift of Wings”. It is considered hard for the 28(7c) grade and also one of the most spectacular looking climbs in the Western Cape.Β 

If you want to jump to the crux action: 1:02

 

Take a look at this amazing footage by Jan Fischer of Chris Barker sending it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEmDl… Chris also takes a lekker whipper that you can see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGdTm… Mountainproject describes the route perfectly: “Benchmark for the grade. 11a to the roof, pumpy rail to the lip, followed by a HARD, airy boulder problem to pull onto the head wall. Continue straight up to the anchors of Swan Lake.” (https://www.mountainproject.com/route…)

 

 

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10 Responses to A Gift of Wings (7c), The Mine

  1. Keith Nov 6, 2020 at 8:47 am #

    JWS and microbe are on the verge of gradespanning this route

  2. Das noob Nov 7, 2020 at 8:51 pm #

    What is gradespanning?

    I think this route is quite a bit easier if you’re shorter, getting the heelhook next to your right hand at the lip of the roof instead of the crazy beta Phlip used.

    • Das noob Nov 8, 2020 at 9:11 pm #

      Haha damn that’s pretty badass!

    • Phlip Olivier Nov 10, 2020 at 9:18 am #

      “crazy beta Phlip used” Haha
      I’m not joking when I say my thoughts when posting the video was to give a more sane alternate to the crazy heelhook beta Chris used
      :-D.. I can just hear/feel my knee pop when I watch Chris’ video.

      Makes sense that the heelhook beta is easier for short people. Is it that the taller you are, the more flexible you need to be? I felt like I just couldn’t bend that way. Chris is quite a bit taller than me and seemingly quite flexible. I’m about as flexible as a brick.

  3. Keith Nov 8, 2020 at 1:40 pm #

    Gradespanning a 28 means: climb it, wait at least 28 years then reclimb

    • Das noob Nov 8, 2020 at 9:11 pm #

      oops meant to reply this you…

  4. Wes Nov 8, 2020 at 5:40 pm #

    Should I give away the tip for the top crux?? It involves a kneebar that stops you from taking big whippers as Chris did (It’s me belaying)

    • Phlip Olivier Nov 10, 2020 at 8:56 am #

      Please do!

      “It involves a kneebar that stops you from taking big whippers as Chris did (It’s me belaying)”
      Is that the tip or is there more to it? πŸ˜‰

      • Wes Nov 11, 2020 at 6:57 pm #

        At the right undercling at 1:23, you can place your left knee next to your hand if make space and wear a knee pad. My climbing partner almost gets a hands free rest there. It makes that clip a whole lot easier. It’s also possible to reach the sloper from that kneebar. But the main thing is it doesn’t become such a power-endurance fest anymore.

        I can’t do the first bit yet though. I will try your beta.

        • Phlip Olivier Nov 12, 2020 at 11:11 am #

          That sounds epic! Sneaky kneebars are the best. I’m now sommer saaikd to check it out, but not sure if I’ll even make it to the lip of the roof πŸ˜€

          Good luck with working out the first bit. Thanks for sharing your beta.

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