Tribute to Teodor Tzvetanov Iliev: WhatsApp profile: “Probably Climbing”
I first met Teo at the lower cable way station on the 8th of December 2017. He had decided to take a wonder through the various outdoor leadership schemes. He was booked on a 3 day training course as he wanted to become a multi pitch rock climbing guide. It was very clear on day one that he was a complete natural, both in personality and technical skill. Somehow, with a limited log book of ascents he seemed to have amassed knowledge, skill and experience way beyond his early “20 something” years. He was a like a perfectly formed premature baby who just needed to be put in an incubator.
The “incubator” for him was to be told to go away and have fun for 24 months, getting “the knowledge” from climbs under his belt that he hadn’t done yet but somehow already intuitively knew. For 24 months he did just that. Alongside this he worked as an “aspirant” and was awarded his badge in December 2019, having already become a commercial success before he’d even qualified.
I’m sure everyone who knew Teo must have a story. One of the early tales which blew me away more than anything (in part because he was so understated and didn’t seem to register the significance), was when he was first invited by the “Yellowwood Cognoscenti” to meet them at the base of the wall for a “route or two”. After making his own way out to Du Toits Kloof he commenced a pre dawn hike up to the base of Yellowwood Amphitheatre only to find himself at sunrise below the base of the NW Face of Du Toits Peak, gazing up at the first pitch of Renaissance. A phone call to the “Cognoscenti” relayed to him the error of his ways. Undeterred he walked back down with his 30kg overnight camping rucsac complete with rack and ropes before proceeding (on foot) down the N1. (A roundtrip of 15km and 1000m of height gain/loss). This was then followed with a further 500m climb (up the correct gulley this time) to the base of Yellowwood, where a rope was no doubt thrown down for him to join in on the latest project. He had now earned his spurs and it was decided the “youth” was okay.
I hadn’t heard of this level of enthusiasm since the 80s and the days of Lomax, De Klerk, Bob Woods and Phillip Lloyd, and it was clear that this young man was following in the footsteps of a long Cape tradition of strong walkers and trad climbers who have gone on to do great things in the Alps and Greater Ranges. Repeats of the classics on Table Mountain led to his own route on Africa Amphitheatre. He proudly showed it off to me one afternoon after we had both finished work on the mountain for the day. It certainly took the award for the best route name of the year “Kape Moss” and was a slightly dangerous 22 to boot. He quickly ticked off the Cederburg rites of passage before moving on to the modern classics on Slanghoek like A Private Universe 22 A1 (done in 48 hours Cape Town to Cape Town).
Trips to the US and Europe in 2019 representing SA on the BMC exchange to the UK (with a quick run along the Cuillin Ridge in 13 hours) lead to him taking clients of his own company Balkan Voyage to Bulgaria. Followed by further new routing on his return to South Africa.
Climbing country routes that would take most people 18 hours car to car, in half that time, led to him naturally wanting to progress to “enchainments”. Exactly 12 months ago The Bobby Woods Challenge to link NW Frontal, Exposure and Klein Winterhoek was dusted off (and finally repeated) with partner Andy Court in under 36 hours. A blistering time for a roped team, pitching most of the 3 routes and not cutting corners by simul climbing. This involves 1200m of climbing and is just conceivable if you think of the three routes stacked on top of each other but when you consider descending and walking to the base of each route, the mind boggles. Exposure in F Major (1600m of height gain/loss and 10km of walking), NW Frontal (2000m of height gain/loss and 15km of walking) and Klein Winterhoek Frontal (2900m of height gain/loss and 16km of walking). I remember Phil Lloyd (who was no slouch) commenting after our attempt ignominiously ended at the Du Toits Kloof Hotel pub, that the only way this would go was with a paraglider and/or solo. In the end it was only the tempestuousness of youth in not choosing tactically the correct order to do the routes that denied Teo and Andy the valuable time needed to do it in 24 hours.
COVID hit South Africa in March 2020 and Teo quickly adapted by moving to the Cederburg with his girlfriend, where he went on a bouldering spree and started to develop his skills as a writer. His stories were about human life and places, on Table Mountain.
During lockdown his friends were offered samples via Whatsapp of his prose and Podcasts. Requests came for “let me hear your thoughts once finished thank you (open hands pressed together emoji)”.
Having generally more chalk on my hands than ink I couldn’t quite get my head around his writing. What I did know was that here was Teodor typically doing what he did best which was to apply the first rule of climbing to everything he did in life, now, including his writing i.e. the first rule is: “there are no rules”.
So in response I wrote:
“I’ve skimmed through the written work and listened to one of the pod casts. I think that it will require a much more careful reading /listening as there is a lot of depth (it’s kind of light but not light material) and the novelty in the way it is presented requires concentration in a way which my brain isn’t accustomed to reading and listening.”
Since Lockdown one, we’ve had Lockdown two (and even three in some countries). Many of us have been fighting our own survival battles to keep mentally, physically and financially fit.
Just over a week ago I learned that Teo had taken his own life. We may never know why. He was popular with girls, had plenty of work as a professional mountaineer, seemed financially secure and came from a loving family. For whatever reason he chose to leave us. But what a gigantic impression he left in the world of climbing before going, and in such a short time.
He was one of us and we will miss you bro’.
Jeremy Colenso
Thanks for the words Jeremy
Missing you Teo !
Thanks Jeremy, your obituary does Teo proud.
Spending time in the mountains with Teo was a treat. He was always up for a mission and his enthusiasm was infectious. It makes me incredibly sad that Teodor left us.
Many thanks Jeremy. Such a wonderful tribute to someone larger than life who shared our passion.
Well done, Jeremy. This is a lovely obituary for a most wonderful larger-than-life man.
I am heartbroken that Teo is no more, and that the end was his choosing, but I am very pleased to have had this most amazing young man in my life. Sure loved that fella.
Thank you for the wonderful obituary. I remember meeting Teodor on Table Mountain and being struck by his charm, immense grace on the rock and excitement for the future. I respect his decision though it makes me sad to think that he was in a place where he felt it was his only choice.
That’s a lovely obituary Jeremy. Sadly I only met Teodor for the first time on the Saturday before he took his life. We had a great chat while abseiling down to Fountain Ledge, sharing memories of climbing in the UK, and, oddly, routes climbed with Pat Littlejohn. What a shock to hear of his passing just a couple of days later!
Thanks for the write-up. Feel right that someone wrote about Teo here. He was an extraordinary human being. It is a tragedy he ended up deciding he did not fit into the world. Glad to have met him, he obviously meant a lot to many people. For many these are dark and difficult times, remember not only to check your partners knot, but also check-in on the rest of their lives if you have the opportunity.
A few days before Teo left us he brought Margaret a bunch of beautiful flowers to the camp site at Oudtshoorn. The first in a year. We then went on with him and Jed to climb at the Outback on the way to Cape Town where he managed to mount and bare-back ride a wild horse that bucked and threw him off. Hilarious! But it could all have ended there. He had also developed a flat tyre and I offered to fix it with my special repair kit. This is quite easy to do and very satisfactory. He declined saying that he doubted the safety of the repair.
So then I simply do not get the outcome of the next few days.
He really was THE newest and bestest new friend of not only me but all my family who toured with him for some 2 weeks through Bulgaria. I have climbed with Teo, laughed with Teo and jorled with Teo for several years and as Jeremy mentioned he earned his Stripes by walking up Du Toit’s Kloof ravine rather than Yellowwood to meet up with me and Johan Lanz.
I so miss you Teo.
Thanks for the beautiful obituary. Although I did not know Teo half as much as I would have liked, I was always impressed with his extraordinary friendliness and good vibes. A gem of a human gone too soon.
Ja Teo was the last guy who I would have imagined would go the way he did. He was always insanely positive, energetic and enthusiastic and always up for an adventure and a laugh. He was a bold climber and pushed himself constantly and I recall climbing with him in the US, Yellowwood and many of the regular lines up on the ledge. Still can’t believe he’s gone. But he’ll not be forgotten. Jeremy, it’s great article that does justice to the man.
This is a nuanced and incandescent accolade, Jeremy. Your understated tone, combined with your choice of anecdote , salutes Teo’s complexity in a way that leaves us breathless – forces us to assess what’s left of our own lives with new meaning – and thereby celebrates his…
Thank you Jeremy for writing this beautiful tribute for a wild man, Teodor. I love all the stories of his life and all the wild and funny things he did. He was so strong. So vibrant. So alive! It’s hard to accept that this is the end for us and Teo physically. May he fly free and guide us from where he is now.
This is very sad news. Teodor was a young man that I never had the privilege of meeting. Someone who I followed and could relate to with his incredible drive and passion for climbing. An inspiration for youthful mountaineering. I will miss reading about his wonderful achievements. Go strong and brave in your new adventures Teodor.
Chris L
Thank you for this lovely article. Teo was an amazing human being and accomplished so much in such a short time. Today is his birthday. Cheers, Teo! You are loved and missed, but your energy and legacy will live on. Thank you for all that you have given to the climbing community! I will fondly remember all your MCSA talks and all of our mountain encounters. Our last discussion on Table Mountain will always be dear to me.
xx
Rachel
My name is Steve Blum and I live in New Hampshire, USA. This morning, belatedly after more than two years, treading in a swampy mix of emotions, after reading of the untimely loss of Teodor. I am thoroughly devastated and heartbroken, as well as embarrassed, that I did not learn of this earlier, as Teo left in me an indelible, ineradicable and wonderful impression, such as very few people in my life ever have. And I only had the great fortune of knowing him for 11 days and 9 hours.
We met late in the summer of 2018, in Cape Town, SA. I had just concluded a cycling trip there with a group of friends and stayed on for a few extra days. During one of these days, I had contacted a local guiding company and had the luck of having Teodor to guide me for a day hike up Table Mountain. We talking incessantly and I learned an incredible amount about the natural beauty of the area. I also learned that he had recently begun Balkan Voyages in his homeland of Bulgaria, as a guiding service for small groups of one to four people. I loved hiking and the outdoors, and I wanted to experience more of Eastern Europe, so I thought this could be a fabulous opportunity. Throughout the day with him, I knew he was proficient, professional, knowledgeable, communicative, kind and considerate. So I asked if he could sign me up for a hiking and cultural tour of Bulgaria, which he was pleased to accommodate.
Early in the spring of 2019, we planned this trip, largely via What’sApp. I explained how I desired a hiking trip, primarily day trips, but a trip to also experience the vibe of the country. The people, cuisine, the culture, town and village life. He prepared a trip that checked every one of those boxes beautifully, because they all represented his pride and joy.
We met again, as he picked me up at the airport in Sofia, Bulgaria in August, 2019 until our last dinner together on the eve of my return home, he handled the itinerary expertly and in a manner of total perfection. From the Eyes of God in the Prohodna Cave, throughout the climbs near Bansko, to a very exciting change in itinerary: Mt. Olympus, Greece! I shouldn’t forget that he scheduled a mountain bike ride with his friend and inn keeper in Bansko for our day off, just so I wouldn’t get bored. (As if THAT was going to happen!)
The idea of Mt. Olympus made me feel pretty frightened, since it would be more rugged and technical than any of my hiking experiences. Especially, when he mentioned we would use body belaying and need helmets for extra safety. By then, I had utmost confidence in Teo and if he felt I could do this, I was damn well going to do it! And I did it surprisingly well! It was a moving, life-changing experience for me, such as only a few anybody would have in a lifetime! To savor this experience, we descended to his car, and after a celebratory brew, drove to the beach town of Sarti, Greece for a relaxing overnight and day at the beach.
Upon returning to Sofia, the evening before my flight home, as he let me off at my airport hotel, he invited me to a farewell outdoor dinner at one of his favorite outdoor Italian Bistros. He told me they made the best Pizzas in town and that I would have the pleasure of meeting his mom, who lived a short walk away. This was the trip’s last of many examples of his kindness and friendship. The supper was another memorable aspect of my trip and the love and respect between mother and son was unmistakable. It makes me feel so much more hurt by his loss.
We stayed in touch for quite a while after that trip, exchanging photos, messages, and he sent me several examples of his writing. We talked right up into the early weeks of Covid-19 and he told me he was leaving Cape Town with a girl friend for the safety of the mountains. Then our messaging stopped, and whereas, at first, my notes went through, I received nothing back. The account went down explaining “security changes.”
So this thumbnail sketch of my friendship with Teodor brings me up to this morning, as I was attempting to make contact with him. I was going to talk with him about another trip to Bulgaria next year, this time with a couple of friends. Google search brought me this this horrible and tragic revelation. I am grateful for my 11 days with Teodor, so good and kind, and were so fulfilling and rich in wonderful times and experiences.
May all the richness of Teodor Iliev’s life and legacy be an inspiration to all his friends, family.
With Great Sadness,
Steve Blum
Bartlett, New Hampshire, USA